[ArizonaJim]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Golden rule is to always work on the lower chain segment (below the swingarm) where the chain moves OFF the sprocket - compared to the upper chain segment where the chain moves INTO the sprocket.

I could swear the chain below the trailing arm on my RE moves toward the large sprocket on the rear wheel.

In any case, I don't see any benefit in lubricating the drive chain while the motorcycle engine is running.
I do admit that I don't use the home brewed lube that was mentioned earlier. I use factory made PJ-1 Black Label which comes in a aerosol can.

It goes onto the chain as a very thin oil which thickens to a honey like consistency after a few minutes.
If it is applied while the chain is moving, the fluid is thrown off of the chain onto the floor where it can thicken.

[JayPrashanth]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Thank you for your helpful instructions. I only see one thing mentioned that I disagree with.

Although you warned people to be careful, I think the risks of lubricating the chain while the engine is running and in gear outweigh the benefits.

As many of us remember, it was not too long ago that one of our members lost several of his fingers as they became entangled with the sprocket. Although he was using a rag at the time to wipe the chain, there is still a great risk whenever ones hands are around a moving piece of machinery.
Also, with the engine running there is the possibility of inadvertently touching the very hot silencer.

With the motorcycle sitting on the centerstand and the rear tyre off of the ground it is very easy to move the chain by simply rotating the wheel by hand, allowing it to stop, applying the grease and then rotating the tyre again to expose a new section of chain.

Sorry about being such a worry wart but fingers are hard to replace.

While adjusting cams on an LB500 I once owned, I almost lost a thumb. Cams/chains/sprockets are real heavy duty items and can easily shear stuff off the much more fragile human body. Safest method, imho, to lubricate the chain-sprocket is what ArizonaJim has mentioned.

Doing thus also allows you to get an even coat of lube on. When the wheel's moving under engine power, one usually tends to overlube the chain, especially while using sprays such as OKS/Motul etc. Oh, and you have a cleaner floor too.

Cheers,

Jay

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

I could swear the chain below the trailing arm on my RE moves toward the large sprocket on the rear wheel.

My mistake. I was talking about having the bike on stand and moving the wheel with your hand. The upper chain length usually inaccessible due to the chain guard.

[Invader]

Hi!

I am currently in US on an assignment and I have some time and money to spare to buy a Lambda (Oxygen) sensor for my 2012 Classic 500 DS (which i have back in Bangalore).

I have the following questions for you, if you could help -
1. Does installing a Lambda (Oxygen) sensor really help? what would be the obvious changes i can expect?
2. Can i buy this sensor off the shelf in any RE dealers in MN? Can i buy this online instead? Can you share its part number? what are the other items i need to buy along with this?
3. Is it easy / difficult to install this sensor and adjust the ECU accordingly when i eventually go back to bangalore?

Anything i need to keep in mind?

Cheers
Pavan

[click]

Originally Posted by Invader

Hi!

I am currently in US on an assignment and I have some time and money to spare to buy a Lambda (Oxygen) sensor for my 2012 Classic 500 DS (which i have back in Bangalore).

I have the following questions for you, if you could help -
1. Does installing a Lambda (Oxygen) sensor really help? what would be the obvious changes i can expect?
2. Can i buy this sensor off the shelf in any RE dealers in MN? Can i buy this online instead? Can you share its part number? what are the other items i need to buy along with this?
3. Is it easy / difficult to install this sensor and adjust the ECU accordingly when i eventually go back to bangalore?

Anything i need to keep in mind?

Cheers
Pavan

Hey Pavan,

Most of your answers can be asked by calling the RE dealer in your city or nearby. You will be able find the nearest one from Enfield USA website.

I will let the pundits comment on retro fitting the sensor, but IMO it should be possible and can only think that it will be better for your motorcycle.

[ArizonaJim]

I believe installing the O2 (lambda) sensor that is used on the US models would require buying, in addition to the sensor, the exhaust down pipe to have the correct environment to install the sensor. There is a boss approximently 100mm from the upper end on the US models for the sensor.

Also needed would be the new wiring to connect the ECU.

I'm guessing but I believe the ECU may be different on the US models and I'm sure the programs and maps that are installed in the ECU are not the same as the ones for the Indian market.
Buying a new US model ECU would be costly if one could be found.

As I've mentioned before, the O2 sensor and the ECU programs are there to reduce the exhaust emissions so they conform to the US Department Of Transportation regulations. It is not something that increases engine power or fuel economy.

[Sawyer]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

In any case, I don't see any benefit in lubricating the drive chain while the motorcycle engine is running.

Decades ago, I read a British book on bike maintenance:

Take the chain off the bike. Dissolve some grease in petrol in a pan, warm the pan, and then drown the chain in the pan after cleaning it first, keeping low heat under the pan. Turn the heat off, and allow it to stay there until the petrol has evaporated completely. Fish the chain out, and reinstall. The grease will now have found its way inside all the moving part of the chain.

I never tried this, but it sounded so fascinating that I still remember it. If someone is keen to do thing the messy way...

A great thing about my Yezdi 250 from 30 years ago was that it had a fully enclosed chain cover. Never gave me any trouble for ten years, even though after the first year I never bothered to maintain the chain. The RE had an open chain then, and soldiers on with the same practice. I don't use my RE in the rains, but I shudder to think what the monsoons in India will do to it.

[StreetAddict]

Originally Posted by Sawyer

Dissolve some grease in petrol in a pan, warm the pan, and then drown the chain in the pan after cleaning it first, keeping low heat under the pan. Turn the heat off, and allow it to stay there until the petrol has evaporated completely.

Warming up a pan of petrol does not sound safe to me..

On the other hand, has anyone tried installing a tacho on RE's FI? We know that TB 500 is electronically identical to the Classic 500 & we also know that TB500 comes with a tacho. So it should be fairly easy to install.. Right?

[Randhawa]

Originally Posted by StreetAddict

Warming up a pan of petrol does not sound safe to me..

On the other hand, has anyone tried installing a tacho on RE's FI? We know that TB 500 is electronically identical to the Classic 500 & we also know that TB500 comes with a tacho. So it should be fairly easy to install.. Right?

I tried the older thunderbird tacho meter but failed miserably. That was due to the input of pulse every 15˚ rather then 360˚. Yes the new EFI 500 tacho will work straight on with no problem.

[nasirkaka]

I tried the older thunderbird tacho meter but failed miserably. That was due to the input of pulse every 15˚ rather then 360˚. Yes the new EFI 500 tacho will work straight on with no problem.

Sirji, good to see u still keeping a tab on this thread.

How and wheres u been? what r you riding these days?

[Randhawa]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Sirji, good to see u still keeping a tab on this thread.

How and wheres u been? what r you riding these days?

I am doing great, busy with work lately. Just driving these days but not riding. Thinking to buy a C5 again or Duke 390.

[Randhawa]

It's been pending for a very long time. Something to do with quality issue rather then design issue.




See what you can make out from the picture. I ended up doing some R&D when I was not able to find the reason for a particular noise from the head. At the end I managed to trace the part and rectified it at my end.

Issue lies in the way that part was made incorrectly and RE quality/ production department should have checked it.

Any takers for a guessing game to what it was?

[nasirkaka]

I am doing great, busy with work lately. Just driving these days but not riding. Thinking to buy a C5 again or Duke 390.

Do not buy another C5. Buy a 390 and start another thread thread on similar lines for our benefit. yes yes, i booked one.

See what you can make out from the picture. I ended up doing some R&D when I was not able to find the reason for a particular noise from the head. At the end I managed to trace the part and rectified it at my end.

Looks like some complex analysis. Is is anything to do with change in tappet stem angle cos of poor quality of tappet material?
wait a sec, we have hydraulic tappets. ?? u mean there is difference in seating angle???

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

Any takers for a guessing game to what it was?

Cam follower by the look of it.

[Randhawa]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Do not buy another C5. Buy a 390 and start another thread thread on similar lines for our benefit. yes yes, i booked one.

Looks like some complex analysis. Is is anything to do with change in tappet stem angle cos of poor quality of tappet material?
wait a sec, we have hydraulic tappets. ?? u mean there is difference in seating angle???

I rode the 200 Duke and found it too cute, lite, decently fast and manageable. I think it's really a good machine. Considering the price for 390 and performance its VFM

Not that much of difference in seating angle but -clue" something which wears out a certain part and makes out some irritating noise" Does not effect performance.

Originally Posted by ebonho

Cam follower by the look of it.

Nope, leave the cam out of the scene. Although it's part of the issue but not the faulty part itself.