[Randhawa]

Originally Posted by stnair

Perhaps the long bazoooka reduces the POP sound to just a little pup which you cannot hear, by the time it comes out of it ?

Actually you are spot on. It does but normally you dont hear it but if you listen to it carefully then you can make it. The noise get smoothened out by the time it makes it way to the end of bazooka. The other reason why we don't hear it is because of the cat and also the baffles inside the bazooka which to large extent does not let it happen in the first place.

A new problem with engine

Actually its not a new one but been ignored for too long and never though it was a problem.

Went to get my 5th service done today and while I was there helping another C5 owner with its niggling issues I noticed the noise difference from his engine with mine. RE engineer was present there and I mentioned it to him and wondered if that noise on my engine was indeed a problem which I had ignored it long way back.

Hard to explain that noise but one can easily make out and ignore it thinking its normal. I previously never bothered as I never had any issues related to performance. The engine compression is still making out an healthy 150Psi and performance is far better then most of the C5 around my town.

But to a guy like me something like that means sleep less night and it starts from today onwards until its sorted. The mechanics believe its from the Exhaust cam while I believe its coming from the exhaust valve, maybe something to do with valve guide as it sounds like coming from the ex valve rocker cover. Cams were adjusted and any slack from it removed but to no help. Noise still exist but pickup has become more intense which I am obviously loving it.

Tomorrow back at the workshop to see if it can be sorted or at least the source of it. Only thing I am dreading is if I have to wait for the parts for few weeks again. This time I have to shell money from my pocket and its going to pinch a bit, ouch. Ex cam alone cost around Rs 1500-2k. But now I just have to get it sorted by all means, swing arm modification can wait.

So much for a maintenance free RE product.

[anurag47]

Randhawa - thanks for your reply & suggestions.

I am not worried or bothered about the "popping" sounds of the upswept. What I don't like are the "jerks" - which are not due to the pops. They happen randomly, especially when I decelerate or drive at slow speeds (20-30 Kmph). The result is an unpleasant riding experience. On the bazooka, the bike cruises smoothly (except for the minor vibes at high-end of each gear).

I am attributing the benefit of doubt to the new engine and am hoping that these jerks go away after 2nd/3rd service.

The tail light issue is back. Now, even if I adjust the spring, the light is constantly on the moment I turn on the ignition. It does not get switched off under any condition. The spring and the overall brake-pedal lighting mechanism is really of shabby quality. Will need to sort it during the 1st service - though seeing its design I can see it cropping up again soon. So much for RE's quality assurance.

Will look up on the blue diamond teflon in B'lore. In case anyone knows of a dealer in B'lore, do let me know.

[Randhawa]

You should try any automotive paint store, they will probably have it.

Vibrations will come down gradually but if your clutch is too loose then you will also get jerking acceleration, so make sure its no too loose. Please check the chain tension. It will also cause jerky movements if loose. You better get used to the jerks as there are here to stay. Once you get used to your bike then you will hardly notice it. It will still come down a lot.

Just check the front brake switch as well incase its playing up.

[bradhey]

Originally Posted by anurag47

Randhawa - thanks for your reply & suggestions.

I am not worried or bothered about the "popping" sounds of the upswept. What I don't like are the "jerks" - which are not due to the pops. They happen randomly, especially when I decelerate or drive at slow speeds (20-30 Kmph). The result is an unpleasant riding experience. On the bazooka, the bike cruises smoothly (except for the minor vibes at high-end of each gear).

I am attributing the benefit of doubt to the new engine and am hoping that these jerks go away after 2nd/3rd service.

The tail light issue is back. Now, even if I adjust the spring, the light is constantly on the moment I turn on the ignition. It does not get switched off under any condition. The spring and the overall brake-pedal lighting mechanism is really of shabby quality. Will need to sort it during the 1st service - though seeing its design I can see it cropping up again soon. So much for RE's quality assurance.

Will look up on the blue diamond teflon in B'lore. In case anyone knows of a dealer in B'lore, do let me know.

These jerks make you look like a jerk quite literaly. I tried three C5s and two had this issue, my own bike had it right from day one (those were some days when you had a choice to pick the one you liked, alas this is not possible now due to the heavy booking).

However with time this disappered. I guess this is related to the self adjusting clutch tension. The moment this bike adapts to your riding style it will take care of this problme all by itself

[anurag47]

Originally Posted by bradhey

The moment this bike adapts to your riding style it will take care of this problme all by itself

It's more likely that one would need to adapt to the bike's style - whether one likes it or not ! ;-)

Today my fuel indicator lighted up. The calculated average is around 22 km/lt. This seems very low to me. What was everyone's experiences with their C5s, w.r.t. initial fuel averages?

The tail light issue isn't due to the front brake. The switch to which the spring is connected seem faulty. While driving and depressing the rear brake, it gets stuck at a particular position, and when tweaked with the finger "snaps" back to its correct position. Let's see what the folks at the RE service station say regarding this.

[Randhawa]

@Anurag- Dont go by the fuel level indicator, it's highly inaccurate. Try topping it up and after 100km top it up again, you will get more accurate reading. I was getting 27km/L.

The rear brake switch is either misaligned or a switch with quality problem. IT could also be a problem with the tension between the springs and the switch. Can you post up a picture showing how much slack there is with the brake pressed and also a picture from side to show the level of the rear brake pedal and the footrest together.

[nasirkaka]

The rear of my C5 got punctured. A small nail was the culprit.

Pushed it to a local road side puncture repairwala. (man.. had a tough time pushing the bike with flat rear)

The puncture guy tried removing the rear tyre, but found it a bit difficult. He somehow fixed the puncture with the tyre of the bike. (like we do a bicycle).

What are the pros / cons of fixing a puncture without removing the tyre? was just curious..

[Randhawa]

Pros -The wheel does not get scratched as compared to when the puncture is repaired with the wheel on the ground.

Cons- I dont think a cold puncture is as good as a hot puncture repair.

Apart from these two, I dont think there is much to it.

[EssYouWe]

I am looking for the stock Classic seat now, if anyone is willing to sell it for a reasonable price... please let me know!

[bradhey]

Originally Posted by EssYouWe

I am looking for the stock Classic seat now, if anyone is willing to sell it for a reasonable price... please let me know!

what went wrong with yours ????????

[bradhey]

Guys a lot is happening about the swing arm in US, to know more follow the thread
Bronze Swing Arm Bushings For C5?

[GreaseMonk]

They are also talking about performance mods by an Italian company and Hitchcocks: It has begun, perfomance bits on the horizon

[Randhawa]

I did had a look at what he has done but he should have provided more support on connecting the extra bar to the pivot arm as well. Its still not that tough. I think he backed down a bit after considering the point for the chain guard on the arm for which you will have to make a new mounting and modify the chain guard as well.

[EssYouWe]

Originally Posted by bradhey

what went wrong with yours ????????

Re-foamed it into a slightly more comfy shape. The problem is that its great for long rides, but quite tedious to be on in the city.

[anurag47]

Randhawa: I'll try the top-up and see the results. However, I feel there would be variability in top-up technique as well. . Today, I filled 3 lt. of petrol and did a trial run of around 80 kms on one of the toll highways here, with almost non-existent traffic. I dont remember pressing the break more than a couple of times. As of now the fuel indicator hasn't lighted up and so far average is around 26 km/lt. Will need to do few more hit-and-trials to come up with the actual numbers.

From what it seems, the fuel indicator light jitters (falsely) while driving, when the remaining fuel is around 3 to 4 lt. However, when the bike is stationary, I guess it only lights up when the fuel level is below the sensor. i.e. it probably gives a correct indication. More experimentation needed on this though.

On the tail light, the culprits are both the spring and the switch. The spring does has some slack in it. I had gone to the RE workshop yesterday and looked at a couple of new C5s. The spring is taut and straight. Additionally, even if I take off the spring off from the hole (where it's connected to at the bottom end), the light still remains on. I need to tweak the black switch for it to snap back and only then the light switches off. Will post the pics tomorrow and will also look in detail into this issue.