[shrey25]

Originally Posted by Nonstop-driver

Update - out of curiosity, uninstalled and reinstalled the android auto app. And voila, it worked in the car too.

PS: Mods, please merge the posts.

This connectivity problem only happens to me sometimes , do you think that service center would budge to my request even if the problem doesn't show up when they try to check it?

[Geo_Ipe]

Could someone please tell me the month of manufacture of the Creta, after which the 2017 updates were rolled out?

I have booked a Creta Diesel Auto, and want to make sure the car allotted to me is not from an older stock. I had booked the car with a 1,00,000/- advance a week ago, and the sales guy says he has a car of my choice (SX+, Stardust colour) in stock, however he is acting fishy and was adamant that he wouldn't provide me with the VIN of the car allotted to me unless I pay in full. I insisted on the VIN, and today he forwarded me a 17 digit VIN - without the last 2 digits to decode the month of manufacture! So once I squeeze the full VIN out of him, which month should I make sure the car was manufactured in?

Thanks in advance!

[swiftdiesel]

Originally Posted by Geo_Ipe

Could someone please tell me the month of manufacture of the Creta, after which the 2017 updates were rolled out?

I have booked a Creta Diesel Auto, and want to make sure the car allotted to me is not from an older stock. I had booked the car with a 1,00,000/- advance a week ago, and the sales guy says he has a car of my choice (SX+, Stardust colour) in stock, however he is acting fishy and was adamant that he wouldn't provide me with the VIN of the car allotted to me unless I pay in full. I insisted on the VIN, and today he forwarded me a 17 digit VIN - without the last 2 digits to decode the month of manufacture! So once I squeeze the full VIN out of him, which month should I make sure the car was manufactured in?

Thanks in advance!

Hi Geo,

I recently took delivery of an i20 in Chennai and they mentioned it's Hyundai policy to not mention the VIN before full payment. I don't think he's acting fishy. Also, the VIN they provide will be 17 digits which will only tell you the year of manufacture. The last 2 digits will be under the carpet on the seat frame, but Hyundai enter that into the system only when your vehicle goes to RTO. If possible, try to inspect the vehicle in their stock yard and check for the 19th character. The service advisor himself won't have the 19 digit code.

During delivery, they ensured my system was updated to the latest. You don't have to worry about that.

The 10th character is the year of manufacture and the 19th character is the month.

10th character:
A = 2010
H = 2017


19th character:
A = JAN
B = FEB
C = MAR
D = APR
E = MAY
F = JUN
G = JUL
H = AUG
J = SEP
K = OCT
L = NOV
M = DEC

[Geo_Ipe]

Originally Posted by swiftdiesel

... Hyundai policy to not mention the VIN before full payment. I don't think he's acting fishy. Also, the VIN they provide will be 17 digits which will only tell you the year of manufacture. The last 2 digits will be under the carpet on the seat frame ... If possible, try to inspect the vehicle in their stock yard and check for the 19th character. The service advisor himself won't have the 19 digit code ... During delivery, they ensured my system was updated to the latest. You don't have to worry about that.

I am aware that i20 and Creta are fast movers, and that the chance of the dealer trying to dump old stock is miniscule! Yet, I'd like to be careful. The car is in their Cochin yard apparently, not in Kottayam where I booked the car. I don't have anyone in Cochin who can go and inspect the car. I'm sure my sales guy can get a picture of the full VIN clicked and forward it to me, if he wants to. Instead, he is just pushing me to make the payment!

The sales guy actually sent me a picture of an Excel sheet with few details of the Creta, with the 17 digit VIN. It also mentions an "Invoice date", which is 21/04/17. What does this mean? Does that give any info as to when this car was procured from the plant?

Also, what did you mean by they "Updated" your system before delivery? Do you mean to say that Android Auto & stuff is like a software update which can be done on older cars as well? Please throw some more light! Also, when did you take delivery of your car, and what was the date of manufacture?

[Nonstop-driver]

Originally Posted by shrey25

This connectivity problem only happens to me sometimes , do you think that service center would budge to my request even if the problem doesn't show up when they try to check it?

Doubt it. But after resetting the HU and reinstalling the app on my phone, it is working without any tantrums.

Originally Posted by Geo_Ipe

The sales guy actually sent me a picture of an Excel sheet with few details of the Creta, with the 17 digit VIN. It also mentions an "Invoice date", which is 21/04/17. What does this mean? Does that give any info as to when this car was procured from the plant?

1. Don't make the payment.
2. System was added sometime in March-April. Mine is a April unit and had the updates. 2 people on tbhp had March units, one had it, the other didn't.
3. Invoice date appears to be the date when the vehicle was manufactured and allotted to the dealer. Could be wrong though.
4. Hyundai dealers don't share the full VIN I think. Mine also had a 17 digit number until I saw the vehicle in flesh. I pressed the dealer thrice but somehow he wasn't aware of the last two digits at all. Even sent me screenshot of his system. But in your case it should be fairly easy to send a pic of the vehicle with Android Auto connected. If you've any doubt, just go with a fresh order. Whatever you do, don't make the payment.

[mustang_shelby]

Originally Posted by Geo_Ipe

The car is in their Cochin yard apparently, not in Kottayam where I booked the car. I don't have anyone in Cochin who can go and inspect the car.

It is advisable to do an in-person PDI of the car before releasing payment. Even if the VIN turns out to be fine.
Also this supposed policy of not disclosing VIN before payment sounds like made-up stuff.

[swiftdiesel]

Originally Posted by Geo_Ipe

Also, what did you mean by they "Updated" your system before delivery? Do you mean to say that Android Auto & stuff is like a software update which can be done on older cars as well? Please throw some more light! Also, when did you take delivery of your car, and what was the date of manufacture?

Mine was April 2017 manufactured. The service advisor told me that all the units after March have the latest update. He ensured that he'll never sell a car without the latest system as advertised. I confirmed it again with him and refused to take delivery without the latest release number on the AVN to which he agreed.

I'm not sure if it could be updated at the dealer level. My understanding is that Hyundai themselves ensure the cars at the dealer have the latest update. I was also offered almost a lakh off for an i20 that was manufactured in Dec 2016 with the old system.

[Nonstop-driver]

Originally Posted by swiftdiesel

. I was also offered almost a lakh off for an i20 that was manufactured in Dec 2016 with the old system.

Aftermarket systems with Android Auto costs 40-50k with reverse camera and all. If this is the only update (like the Creta), a lakh off would make a good deal.

[Nonstop-driver]

Got sandwiched on Chandigarh highway near Sonepat today. A Bullock cart narrowed the gap which meant the 2nd car ahead of mine applied sharp brakes and the chain followed there on. While I saved most of the damage and barely knocked the Alto ahead of me, a Ciaz behind me learnt it too late and rear ended. The left bumper took most of the damage with some spilling over to the lower portion of boot door. The Ciaz though got demolished. Headlight, grille, bumper and possibly some damage to the radiator too; plus it got rear ended too.

Will visit the showroom tomorrow. Any idea how much does the bumper and the underbody guard (the silver-ish plate under the bumper) cost? I'm considering an insurance claim since the SA estimated only the bumper part at 7000 with paint.

Some pics of the damage:

[Cruzerman]

Originally Posted by Geo_Ipe

I am aware that i20 and Creta are fast movers, and that the chance of the dealer trying to dump old stock is miniscule! Yet, I'd like to be careful. The car is in their Cochin yard apparently, not in Kottayam where I booked the car. I don't have anyone in Cochin who can go and inspect the car. I'm sure my sales guy can get a picture of the full VIN clicked and forward it to me, if he wants to. Instead, he is just pushing me to make the payment!

The sales guy actually sent me a picture of an Excel sheet with few details of the Creta, with the 17 digit VIN. It also mentions an "Invoice date", which is 21/04/17. What does this mean? Does that give any info as to when this car was procured from the plant?

I don't think you should make the payment to get the VIN. I insisted on seeing the Form 22 (which has the 19 digit VIN) from one of the Kochi dealers before even arranging the finance for my Creta. The SA Whatsapped me the photo of Form 22 with the VIN and engine number. Be firm and insist on seeing a copy of Form 22 before putting your money down.

[shrey25]

Originally Posted by Geo_Ipe

Could someone please tell me the month of manufacture of the Creta, after which the 2017 updates were rolled out?
======
So once I squeeze the full VIN out of him, which month should I make sure the car was manufactured in?

Thanks in advance!

Sir I highly recommend you to check the 19 digit VIN before making the payment , I have a creta which didn't have the updates to the HU and which I bought in April.

Originally Posted by Nonstop-driver

Got sandwiched on Chandigarh highway near Sonepat today.
======
Attachment 1640977

Very sad to hear about your accident and having an accident when the car is new is so heartbreaking but the good part is that all the people who got involved were safe . I think there wouldn't be a structural problem because the damage is not that bad.

[kmsithan]

Creta SX Diesal with spedo 32855 KMS had breakdown in the middle of the road on the evening of last Sunday.

I called up the Hyundai Road side assistance and they reached the place in one and half hour and towed away the car after inspection and handed me over the repair slip.

It was shuddering that lasted for about 2 to 3 seconds before the car came to a standstill. I was shifting from 3rd gear to 2nd gear at that moment.

It is being repaired in Advaith Hyundai B.G.Road as they are my preferred service center. The SA updated me that the clutch plate, cover assy and bearing needs replacement.

I have a strong feeling that the master & slave cylinders need to be replaced due to the below reasons:

1. It is the third clutch plate replacement under 32K kms. First replacement was at 14K kms and second one was at 21 kms. Both the previous replacements were done under warranty and not a breakdown situation but clutch hardness issue.

2. On my research the master cylinder might have worn out if the clutch is spongy or not return to its position. I have felt (before the breakdown obviously) that the clutch is hard and was not completely returning to its position. There was minor dead clutch as in when I press the clutch for few centimeters it is not effective. Definitely different than a new car if I had to compare.

Now, my request to experts to clarify below questions as I don't trust the SA:

1. Does the slightly worn out master & slave cylinders causes frequent failure of clutch plate?

2. Is it a good idea to replace the master & slave cylinders to have peaceful driving experience post this repair?

I have attached the pics of that I took in the showroom.

The service manager has agreed happily that all 6 or 7 parts can be replaced and the car would be same as new one. But when I asked him to cover the cylinders and flywheel under warranty, he started saying that it is not required to change all the parts unless any oil leakage, etc.

I have asked them to hold on for now from replacing the parts and I need our Team BHP experts advice at the earliest.

Thank you

[Rahul Rao]

A hard clutch is usually due to defective pressure plate (cover assembly). Dust or worn metal on the part of the shaft on which the thrust bearing slides ahead when you declutch the engine may also lead to a sticky or hard clutch.
Driving a car without rectification of the above issues may lead to premature clutch wear.
If your master / slave cylinder was worn, you would have found gears scraping while shifting, and vehicle creeping ahead a few seconds after shifting even with the engine fully declutched, ie Clutch pedal to the floor.



Rahul

[kmsithan]

Originally Posted by Rahul Rao

A hard clutch is usually due to defective pressure plate (cover assembly). Dust or worn metal on the part of the shaft on which the thrust bearing slides ahead when you declutch the engine may also lead to a sticky or hard clutch.
Driving a car without rectification of the above issues may lead to premature clutch wear.
If your master / slave cylinder was worn, you would have found gears scraping while shifting, and vehicle creeping ahead a few seconds after shifting even with the engine fully declutched, ie Clutch pedal to the floor.

Rahul

Thank you Rahul.
Vehicle was not creeping ahead when fully declutched neither the gears where scraping.

But all my worry is if I change only the clutch plates, cover assembly and bearing, the premature clutch failure would happen again. Say in another 5k to 10k run.

I am certain that fly wheel needs replacement. But how do i get to know if the fly wheel is damaged or not? Could you clarify by looking at the above pictures?

[Rahul Rao]

Originally Posted by kmsithan

I am certain that fly wheel needs replacement. But how do i get to know if the fly wheel is damaged or not? Could you clarify by looking at the above pictures?

Fly wheel too seems ok, not in prestine or as good as new condition, but it has only nominal scratches. In older single mas fly wheels this would have been polished with a sandpaper
Changes are needed only if.
1. There is high slipage between two masses.
2. broken rivet spring or something else between clutch plate and flywheel has gouged out a grove.
3. The wearing surface (part where clutch plate grips) has worn down to more than 0.5 mm below rest of the face.

Your car probably had a defective pressure plate, which damaged your plates.