[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Stick to the herbs mentioned and small trees like pomegranate.

[JithinR]

Need some advice on the U PVC pipe to use for drainage of rain water. We have almost finished installation of a sheet roof over the existing house.

For the drain pipe, the contractor has asked to use 4kgf Supreme U PVC pipes. The dealer he is getting it from has quoted Rs. 260/m.

We are also able to source Hindware Truflo 4kgf from a shop close by and he has quoted Rs. 160/m.

Not sure why there is such a massive difference here but the contractor seems to think that Hindware ones might degrade due to UV exposure ( he has not seen it himself but heard people complain about it ).

What do you guys think?

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Upvc is used either for sewage or hot water. Why do you need it for rain water drainage?

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR

Upvc is used either for sewage or hot water. Why do you need it for rain water drainage?

Actually pipes exposed to sun will degrade due to UV, hence it is better to go for certified UV resistant pipes.

[JithinR]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Actually pipes exposed to sun will degrade due to UV, hence it is better to go for certified UV resistant pipes.

Yep, that seems to be a concern of plumbers this side. This is the pipe I am talking about (pic attached).

Do we need 6kgf pipe for rain water drainage or can we make do with 4kgf?

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by JithinR

Yep, that seems to be a concern of plumbers this side. This is the pipe I am talking about (pic attached).

Do we need 6kgf pipe for rain water drainage or can we make do with 4kgf?

KGF is the pressure rating for pipes. That is how much water pressure the pipe can withstand.

As there is practicaly no pressure in rainwater pipe even 2.5 KGF pipe will do.

[JithinR]

Originally Posted by Aroy

KGF is the pressure rating for pipes. That is how much water pressure the pipe can withstand.

As there is practicaly no pressure in rainwater pipe even 2.5 KGF pipe will do.

Yep. But I think that the concern with contactors and plumbers here is that even if you use 4kgf people see the pipes degrade due to UV exposure. Anyways thanks for all the help.

Since two different plumbers recommended going with 6kgf, I guess I might as well put the money in and hope the damn thing lasts forever.

[tj123]

Originally Posted by JithinR

Not sure why there is such a massive difference here but the contractor seems to think that Hindware ones might degrade due to UV exposure ( he has not seen it himself but heard people complain about it ).

What do you guys think?

If there is not a pressure then there is no need to go for higher rated pipe. Regarding UV exposure one can paint the PVC pipe if it is directly exposed to sun and it will last a long time. I have seen PVC pipes lasting well over 30 years without any damage.

[balenoed_]

In the process of deciding the steel for the RCC work that is about to start (Pillar/Columns and Plinth beams). The builder has considered Indus TMT in the standard quote and asking if I am ok with that or want to upgrade it to Tata or JSW.

Any insights anyone? I would like to keep the cost low but reasonable good quality material.

[akhil_007]

Originally Posted by balenoed_

In the process of deciding the steel for the RCC work that is about to start (Pillar/Columns and Plinth beams). The builder has considered Indus TMT in the standard quote and asking if I am ok with that or want to upgrade it to Tata or JSW.

Any insights anyone? I would like to keep the cost low but reasonable good quality material.

Indus is very good. Infact Kamadhenu is also as good as Indus/Tata/JSW. Just that packaging, marketing and brand name bumps up the cost.

Make sure steel is not exposed and concrete pouring is done properly for beams/columns to avoid honeycombing.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by balenoed_

In the process of deciding the steel for the RCC work that is about to start (Pillar/Columns and Plinth beams). The builder has considered Indus TMT in the standard quote and asking if I am ok with that or want to upgrade it to Tata or JSW.

Any insights anyone? I would like to keep the cost low but reasonable good quality material.

In my experience, Tata and SAIL TMT bars are way ahead of the competetion. They are less brittle and stand up much better in case of earthquake.

So they are worth the extra premium.

[deathwalkr]

It's an old house we live in (60yrs+) and marble has been used for the kitchen countertops. Guess marble was all the fad in the 90s when my grandfather did some renovation work.

Now, my wife who likes to keep things spic and span is almost fed up with the marble top as it gets easily stained. Been asking me to chuck the marble and get granite instead.

Is there any way you can apply some sealant or something to the existing marble top so that it becomes stain proof?

Or should i just put up a granite top over the current marble top itself?

I am a bit worried about the work involved in taking out the marble and getting the granite in.

[d.w.w.]

Originally Posted by deathwalkr

Is there any way you can apply some sealant or something to the existing marble top so that it becomes stain proof?

Or should i just put up a granite top over the current marble top itself?

Marble tops are usually polished with wax. A good layer of wax coat will be enough to prevent stains, but you need to do this more often since cleaning/wiping the slabs will take out the wax coating slowly. I don't remember the exact brand that is used, but it used to come in a red tin container.

There is a standard height for kitchen tops. I don't remember the exact number but it is 85 or 95 cm from the floor. When you add the granite sheet on top, this height will come up at least by an inch. Make sure this is not an uncomfortable height for ladies in the house.

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Originally Posted by deathwalkr

.Is there any way you can apply some sealant or something to the existing marble top so that it becomes stain proof?

Or should i just put up a granite top over the current marble top itself?

I am a bit worried about the work involved in taking out the marble and getting the granite in.

Waxing will cost around ₹ 20-35 per sq ft. May be, you should consider mirror polishing. Not sure of the rates, but expect double. Actual costs will be less, I am in Kerala where labour is at least double than elsewhere.

Once done, use only micro fibre cloth for cleaning. Consider polishing before replacing.

Originally Posted by d.w.w.

. .There is a standard height for kitchen tops. I don't remember the exact number but it is 85 or 95 cm from the floor. When you add the granite sheet on top, this height will come up at least by an inch.

Yes, but not exactly an inch. You get 10-15 mm thick granite. And use gum used for fixing tiles, if not removing the existing marble. Removing the existing marble will be a matter of about 5 knocks with a hammer and right chisel, but not needed / advisable.

Ask your wife about her comfort with existing counter height. Read up on kitchen ergonomics and counter heights. Rule of thumb is half of main user"s height plus 5 cm. But still lower - 80-85 cm for cooking area, 90-95 cm for sink and other working areas.

Granite will cost upto 250 per sq ft and laying will be upto 150 per sq ft and edge rounding / moulding will be in 50-100 per running ft. Again Kerala rates, which are on higher side.

In renovation, one thing leads to other, and You are also in the danger of ending up doing floor, cabinets, plumbing, etc if you touch the marble. So think twice. If replacing the marble, you might as

I started house renovation some stuff months back with a budget of 3-4 l and (there is a post here - if you want the date) now going to start flooring works next week. Have spent - ummm, unmentionable amounts - and yet to buy tiles, switches and electrical fittings and cupboards. And I still don't know whether I'll be happy with the amounts spent or not.

So, if a polishing will fill the need, stick with it.

There are people who still use nano white on kitchen counters. So Marche is not a bad thing.

[Mortis]

I have a bit of an odd home problem and I'm not sure if i should ask here or in the Tools for a DIYer thread.

Anyways. Our bathroom exhaust fans are fitted with nuts to the window glass which has 4 holes drilled through. The exhaust in the guest bathroom which is sea-facing conked off and when tried removing it, i found that the nuts were badly rusted and i couldn't remove them. Multiple applications of WD40 didn't help.

Window guy came and dismounted the window. Broke the clips off the failed fan to remove it. We tried various things to remove the nuts but they all failed. Dremel with cut off disc couldn't get a good enough angle to do more than make a shallow cut on the surface before the mandrel started touching the glass. Deepened the head notch on the nut and tried spanners and sockets on the other side but no luck. Tried using a loose hacksaw blade but unfortunately under the rust there is enough mass left to make it a very long and laborious process.

Can anyone suggest an easier way to get the nuts off without replacing the glass ? A wire type coping saw also might not work as the wire holders would foul with the glass. I saw a diamond coated hacksaw wire blade but it was 4mm thick and the space between the nut head and glass is around 3mm. Are there thinner diamond saw blades available? I'm thinking of something like those survival wire saws but capable of cutting the metal. Hook it over each nut and then drag on the loops to cut through.