[killjoy]

Nice color, too many Greens around...

[sudeep.pandya]

Went for a quick weekend getaway this weekend. Surely getting addicted to the power and dynamics of this beautiful machine!

[tarik.arora]

Hello BHPians

I purchased a used N1000 last year when it had around 7,000 kms on the Odo. The bike is just perfect and a very logical upgrade from my N650. The bike is currently at 9.5k kms and i am running stock tyres. From what i observe, my front tyre is about to give up in the next 1-1.5k kms (just an estimate) and i have started my research on the same. The rear tyre might still be good for another 3k kms. I have a couple of queries:

a) Do you think it will be a good idea to replace the front tyre first and then the rear tyre within a gap of 1.5-2k kms? Or, should i replace the complete set in one go. Cost is a big factor here for me.
b) My requirements are: good tyre life (12-15k kms), decent wet + dry grip (i find the stock Bridgestone's to be good), and zero track usage. Which will be the best tyre for my use case? Michelin Pilot Road 4/ Angel GT/ Rosso Corsa/ Metzeler M7?. My limited knowledge tells me that the M7 will have the least life amongst these so that is last on my list. Also, Rosso Corsa would be an expensive bet.
c) Best place in Delhi / NCR to get these tyres and is balancing necessary while putting new tyres?

I am super confused with all the models around. I plan to stick to stock size for front tyres. Rear tyre, i am hearing good reviews with 190/55 section . Please suggest

[krishnaprasadgg]

Originally Posted by tarik.arora

a) Do you think it will be a good idea to replace the front tyre first and then the rear tyre within a gap of 1.5-2k kms? Or, should i replace the complete set in one go. Cost is a big factor here for me.
b) My requirements are: good tyre life (12-15k kms), decent wet + dry grip (i find the stock Bridgestone's to be good), and zero track usage. Which will be the best tyre for my use case? Michelin Pilot Road 4/ Angel GT/ Rosso Corsa/ Metzeler M7?. My limited knowledge tells me that the M7 will have the least life amongst these so that is last on my list. Also, Rosso Corsa would be an expensive bet.
c) Best place in Delhi / NCR to get these tyres and is balancing necessary while putting new tyres?

Congrats on your purchase!

It is always in the interest of safety to replace the tyres as a set. Though you might be able to pull off just replacing the front alone and then the rear for that small interval, it is not ideal but can be done. But I urge you to change them as a set. Personally I just won't take that risk for squeezing out another 1k kms of life from the rear tyre.

I'd suggest you go for the Michelin Pilot Road or the Angel GT. Those are the more highway and mile-munching friendly tyres out there the Metz and Rosso Corsa will just wear out very fast and unless you are into riding on the track or twisties they tend to wear out square when most of the miles are highway miles.

Regarding the shop, i guess someone from Delhi might be able to help.

Cheers
Krishna

[killjoy]

Originally Posted by tarik.arora

a) Do you think it will be a good idea to replace the front tyre first and then the rear tyre within a gap of 1.5-2k kms? Or, should i replace the complete set in one go. Cost is a big factor here for me.
b) My requirements are: good tyre life (12-15k kms), decent wet + dry grip (i find the stock Bridgestone's to be good), and zero track usage. Which will be the best tyre for my use case? Michelin Pilot Road 4/ Angel GT/ Rosso Corsa/ Metzeler M7?. My limited knowledge tells me that the M7 will have the least life amongst these so that is last on my list. Also, Rosso Corsa would be an expensive bet.
c) Best place in Delhi / NCR to get these tyres and is balancing necessary while putting new tyres?

Considering the diff in wear, I would suggest that you change both the tyres together.

The 190/55 is highly recommended. I did that change and am extremely happy with the profile.

I went with the Angel GT and happy with the same. I had the PR4 on my previous bike and was happy with that too. Considering cost is an issue, I would suggest you look for an an Angel GT or PR4, both should be priced reasonably when compared to the Angel GT2 or the PR5 which are newer models. But ensure that you get stock that is not too old and is still soft. I will PM you the dealer that helped me out and you can check with him.

All the best and safe riding. It is a wonderful machine.

[tarik.arora]

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

It is always in the interest of safety to replace the tyres as a set. Though you might be able to pull off just replacing the front alone and then the rear for that small interval, it is not ideal but can be done.

Many thanks for your suggestions. Will buy both tyres together.

Originally Posted by killjoy

Considering the diff in wear, I would suggest that you change both the tyres together.

The 190/55 is highly recommended. I did that change and am extremely happy with the profile.

Makes complete sense to replace both the tyres in one go. I got your PM as well and it will be great help. Many thanks.

[neil.jericho]

Originally Posted by tarik.arora

a) Do you think it will be a good idea to replace the front tyre first and then the rear tyre within a gap of 1.5-2k kms? Or, should i replace the complete set in one go. Cost is a big factor here for me.

As others have suggested, replacing the set is preferred. If the rear has some more grip left on it, you could use the old rear and new front for a while. It also depends on your usage, if you are into gentlemanly mile munching on the Ninja 1000 for example, this stop gap new front old rear should be fine. If you are a braaaap braaaap braaaap aggressive kind of rider (not that there is anything wrong with that!), do change the tires as a set.

Originally Posted by tarik.arora

b) My requirements are: good tyre life (12-15k kms), decent wet + dry grip (i find the stock Bridgestone's to be good), and zero track usage. Which will be the best tyre for my use case? Michelin Pilot Road 4/ Angel GT/ Rosso Corsa/ Metzeler M7?. My limited knowledge tells me that the M7 will have the least life amongst these so that is last on my list. Also, Rosso Corsa would be an expensive bet.

I believe the successor to the Pilot Road 4 is out and you should be getting the Road 5 in stores now. Similarly, I believe the Angel GT II is also available as well. You should get very good life out of either of these tire sets with good levels of all round grip. I hear Pathpavers is a good option in your part of the country.

[tarik.arora]

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

I believe the successor to the Pilot Road 4 is out and you should be getting the Road 5 in stores now. Similarly, I believe the Angel GT II is also available as well. You should get very good life out of either of these tire sets with good levels of all round grip. I hear Pathpavers is a good option in your part of the country.

Though i am a soft rider, i will probably go ahead and replace the set itselt. Still not 100% sure.
Yes, Pathpavers is one option and the tyres are listed on thier website as well. GTII set is around 33k

On a side note: Maintaning these bikes is super expensive. Sometimes i wonder if it is truely worth to spend a bomb on them but then one ride is enough to change that opinion

[Axe77]

Originally Posted by dkaile

So it's time to say good bye for now with some parting shots

Cheers for now... Ride Safe Brothers

What an absolutely cracking ownership thread. This is like an encyclopedia for a Ninja 1000. Please do keep the updates coming. Totally glued to this thread.

Originally Posted by sudeep.pandya

Went for a quick weekend getaway this weekend. Surely getting addicted to the power and dynamics of this beautiful machine!

Attachment 1954874

Congrats and beautiful color. I saw all three colors in the showroom recently. I simply can't decide whether the black one is nicer or the silver.

Ideally i think a KRT edition would have looked the best.

Saw the 2020 model too and while the TFT is a nice edition, the biggest drawback is a single one sided silencer. In my mind that is a HUGE downer. The twin tailpipes on either side are integral to the look of this bike in my opinion.

[dkaile]

17-02-2020 3680 kms Report - Battery Removal/Cleaning

It has been nearly 2 years and 4 months into ownership and the bike has been performing flawlessly. I was mostly abroad last year and hardly rode the bike. It was consigned under the covers and had hardly done any mileage since it was bought. It still starts in one crank, so I thought to give it a little TLC and clean the battery bay.

The bike had done a measly 3680 kms which is so bad on my part.


The removal of the battery entrails removing the pillion seat by the key and then removing the rider seat by opening these two 6mm hex bolts holding it in place -


The battery removal was a simple job of removing the two 10mm terminal bolts and just pulling the battery out. The underseat area and the battery bay was cleaned. Hers' a view of the seats and battery removed


A closer look at the cleaned battery bay


Here's a look at the battery which is a Yuasa YTX9-BS, Made in Japan, 8Ah VRLA unit. The negative terminal bolt was catching a little rust which was cleaned by a toothbrush and WD40. Note the rubber pad which was placed under the battery which was also cleaned. Also note the nuts which are used for tightening.


The battery voltage was checked and was found to be within range for a unused bike


Here's a look at the Exide Battery which is DIRECT FIT for our bike which was lying with me. The model number is XLTZ9 and the MRP is 2179/- (street price is around 1900/- bucks). It is also a 8Ah VRLA motorcycle battery and is used in the Enfields if I remember correctly. It comes with a 4 year warranty. The battery terminal orientation and the dimensions are exactly the same as the Yuasa one, which will retail for more the 3-4 times the price of the Exide.


A closer look at the Exide


The rubber pad was placed back inside the battery bay for fitment


And the Yuasa was fitted back after jabbing all the terminals and the nuts and bolts with vaseline. Notice the fitment of the battery charging fuseable DIN socket which I have never used incidentally.


The battery charging voltage was checked after restarting the bike. Only the clock on the instrument console needed to be readjusted after removing the battery.


Cheers for now...

[fulcrum29]

Hi guys,
I'm the proud owner of a pre-loved ninja 1000. She is a 2018 model and I bought her in july 19 with 8k on the clock. Have loved every second of ownership.
Last week I faced a problem which had me travel to the nearest dealership ( which, sadly, is in another town) and spend around 3k on labour charges to get her fixed. As I saw, the rectification was very easy and could have been done by me at home itself. Sharing this for the benefit of others.
As my bike is parked in an open garage it attracts all kinds of unwanted attention. Last weekend when I started the bike it hesitated a little and took longer than usual to start. Slowly, as the bike warmed up, the idling RPM dropped, and as the bike reached 3 bars on the temperature gauge the engine cut out. Further attempts to start normally were unsuccessful. I then tried to start her with a little throttle input and the bike started up. The moment I let go of the throttle she cut out again. The bike was not idling, she always needed a little bit of throttle to keep her alive. A look at the CCTV footage of the parking area showed some small kids fiddling with the bike, more specifically near the right side engine case cover. I knew the idle adjustment knob was near that area. I started the bike and kept her alive with a little bit of throttle and turned the idle adjustment knob clockwise 3-4 times, but to no avail. I looked up various online forums but couldn't find anything of much use. So I took the brave decision of riding a bike which just wouldn't idle, to the nearest service which is 80 km away from home. Surprisingly the ride was uneventful ( apart from the usual flameout and the immediate relight) . The technician opened up the fairings and saw that the idle adjustment cable was completely disconnected. All he did was screw on the cable end back on and close up the fairings and of course hand me a bill for 3k. The place where the idle adjustment cable screws in is located on the left side of the bike just behind the radiator. Only the left side fairing needs to be removed to access it. If you have small hands then even that is unnecessary. If your bike is not idling, then the company waala's will try to convince you to let them have a look at your ECU. It would be prudent to check the state of this idling cable first. I really enjoyed the ride back though...

[fulcrum29]

Originally Posted by killjoy

Added a Y-pipe and got rid of the catcon/breadbox. The bike revs much more freely and there is a slight dip in the heat at the sole of the boots.

Also, sounds nice now.

Hi, I'm planning to get a similar thing done on my bike.
Can you please tell what was the extent of cutting required to fit the y-pipe. Also, after so many months has it given any problems. From your photos it looks as if the pipe was not welded on,but just overlapped with the header pipe. Has this lead to any hot gas leakage ? Do the fairings and exhaust need to be removed for the fitment or is it done in-situ? Also if you can please tell me the approx cost for fitment.
Thanks.

[gkveda]

Originally Posted by tarik.arora

Cost is a big factor here for me:

Bajaj finance has started giving interest free EMI Options to buy tires. Also for Michelin (in case you decide on Michelin) there is a 6 months no cost EMI Scheme available for credit card holders. So you can plan any of the tires and go with one of the above options and it would not drill holes in the pocket.

But suggest to change both the tires together.

[killjoy]

Originally Posted by fulcrum29

Hi, I'm planning to get a similar thing done on my bike.
Can you please tell what was the extent of cutting required to fit the y-pipe. Also, after so many months has it given any problems. From your photos it looks as if the pipe was not welded on,but just overlapped with the header pipe. Has this lead to any hot gas leakage ? Do the fairings and exhaust need to be removed for the fitment or is it done in-situ? Also if you can please tell me the approx cost for fitment.
Thanks.

The Y pipe was ordered from Ali Express, cost about 6k. No. problems so far, fingers crossed. No leakage at all even when hot.

Exhaust has to be removed as the header pipe needs to be cut to slip this pipe on.

[fulcrum29]

Originally Posted by killjoy

The Y pipe was ordered from Ali Express, cost about 6k. No. problems so far, fingers crossed. No leakage at all even when hot.

Exhaust has to be removed as the header pipe needs to be cut to slip this pipe on.

Have you fitted a slip on exhaust after that?