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Originally Posted by rjstyles69
(Post 2331160)
The list of works to be attended to last week when I dropped the car was
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Originally Posted by Styler
(Post 2333869)
1. I plan to change all rubber hoses and pipes used for the Cooling system and Fuel. 2. I plan to replace my 3 yr old Amaron in perfect shape (BTW this just the 2nd Battery after the OEM in the 8 year life of my Scorpio) with a new 80 Amp Amaron. Anybody knows the model no of the 80 Amp Amaron ? 3. Should I get the Clutch Plate etc replaced ? What is the life of the clutch with very good driving habbits ? The only thing done with my clutch till now was in the first 3 yrs. I had got both the Clutch Cylenders replaced with TVS from the market from my FNG . That was hardly an expense of 2000. Apart from that there has been no problem with the clutch at all. It still feels perfect. Now I am confused since my vehicle has done 80,000, should get the clutch done as a preventive maintenance routine even though it still in perfect shape. 4. Nozzle /Injector Cleaning. I have been thinking about getting this done at the Mico-Bosch Service Center for over a year now. Somebody had reported that after he got his injectors cleaned before a trip to high altitudes, he had no starting problem with starting at high altitude and the vehicle really improved. Now I am confused if I should just add System G a few times to the tank-full to clean injectors, or should I get them opened and services at the Mico-Bosch Service Center. 5. Alternator -Bearing. Should I get it replaced, although I have had no problems at all. My alternator and self are untouched. Anything else recommended ? |
Originally Posted by rjstyles69
(Post 2336343)
Sent an email to M&M customer care and I got a prompt response. Received a call from the AGM (Service) and have been asked to drop the scorp' off for them to check the gear lever shudder problem. |
Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR
(Post 2336635)
Strange, I think you need to look first the suspended pedal (clutch pedal specially and its setting), then move towards the transmission end. BTW has there been any change in pedal effort, gear shift feel (effort / crashing etc)? Spike |
Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR
(Post 2336852)
@rjstyles, this is a strange failure mode, keep an eye on how these guys go about the problem and keep us updated. Spike |
Originally Posted by kaushik_s
(Post 2328652)
Hi Guys, need some help here. Today while coming back from office I saw the water in fuel filter warning light going on for a few seconds. But after that it never came up again. The manual indicates that the water in the fuel filter needs to be drained and the procedure is mentioned in the self maintanance section. But I couldn't find any reference to do that. Should I take the vehicle to service center to get it done? I filled up fuel today morning only and I'm worried that due to the recent rains there might be water in the fuel. But the light was not constantly on and it happened for a few seconds (10-15) only. Should I be worried? |
Originally Posted by hvkumar
(Post 2336562)
Main belt, along with pulleys. Brake pads & liners (takes lots of abuse) Change all oils, including differential oil, power steering oil, etc Grease hub assembly and check all wheel bearings. Change coolant. Change clutch plate unless you are totally confident that it has at least another 30-40,000 kms life left. Clean starter motor connectors. Have alternator performance checked for output and any bearing noise. |
Originally Posted by kaushik_s
(Post 2337128)
What should I do? How do I drain out the water? |
Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR
(Post 2337361)
Kaushik, the process of draining out water is pretty simple. 1. Loosen the Water in fuel sensor at the bottom portion of the fuel filter. 2. Drain the water accumulated (if any) from this region. 3. Tighten fully back to its earlier position. 4. Procedure complete. Attaching a pic for more clarity. Attachment 539835 If still the light comes on, take her to the service center. Hope this helps. Spike |
Originally Posted by hvkumar
(Post 2337376)
How different is it for the non-crde Scorpios? |
Originally Posted by aviorp
(Post 2337563)
T I checked with the A.S.S this morning and the SA said it is the Inductor that has gone bad and needs replacement. |
Originally Posted by agbenny
(Post 2336043)
I checked with the Manager and found that they replaced the clutch slave cylinder as well as the slave tube. They said it comes with a cover now. Now the problem started in a different way. After a week, I found the clutch has to be pressed 100% or even further till the floor for the first gear -otherwise it become troublesome to push. I decided to take it to them this week during the 24 Service. Yesterday, they said they will adjust the Pedal ply (play?) and while take the vehicle I found extremely difficult to press - it become horribly hard. To my surprise the service guys says its normal. In my 10 years of driving experience only twice (in an Amby and in a tractor) I had felt such a clutch. :Frustrati In my opinion Service people drive different vehicles each day, and its might not be easier to feel the changes that how a car owner feels. I am sure something is wrong now, and this not the way the clutch was. Today, I called them again, made them to accept it, and given the vehicle to service again to make the clutch smoother again. Do you guys see what the fix could have been for this? Thanks |
Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR
(Post 2338097)
Which Inductor? Spike |
Originally Posted by aviorp
(Post 2338858)
I apologize for the mistake. It is the Alternator. The SA said, they found the bearing to be loose and they have tightened it for now. There is no clicking noise from the motor and the 'Engine Check' warning LED is no longer glowing. However, how long should this last? Is it a common problem with the mHawk version? |
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