[blackasta]

Originally Posted by Waxeloquent

1. What should be the DA polisher I should look at and which is available in Bangalore or within India?

2. What other accessories one should get along with the polisher?

3. What reasonably priced wax, polish, sealant I should look at for regular upkeep? Though I planned to buy Collinite 845 or 915, I want to finish the Turtle Wax I have; should last another 2 more rounds. Is Collinite still the right choice?

1. I can PM you details for a couple of guys who can get you DAs

2. Invest in a balanced set of pads. One medium cut, one light cut, and one no cut should be good enough to start. You may acquire specific ones later.

3. Invest in some good clay, a paint cleaner, a sealant and a carnauba wax. Other specific stuff may follow.

[Parthasarathig]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Hmmm I follow the Mike Philips way of loading; massage compound on contact area of pad to prime and then draw a line of product and pick it up with the pad slightly angled when working.

Yes, the 10@10 technique - that works well with a rotary because of its forced rotation. On a DA it wont work because once you angle or tilt the pad, the pad rotation stops and the product will only smear on one side of the pad.

I had tried the massage and prime techinique also - it doesnt work well on my fin pad. But the 3m waffle pads, I prime them with my LSPs in the above technique. Since it doesnt work well with the above technique, i dont massage prime the compounding pad - the Junkman technique works better on that.

What size pads are you using? Try the LC pads, I'm impressed with the Orange CCS pads.

Im using 5.5inch pads on the 5 inch backing plate. Today one of my compounding pads just burst like a balloon when I was drying it on the balcony with the DA. Both my compounding pads have got eaten through, because of their backing quality. The velcro of the pad is around 5.1 inch and this gives very less space for the backing plate to be centred. As a result, the hook and loop of the backing plate eats into the foam.

Im not having any such problem with the 3m waffle pads though. Their backing is big enough.

I was gonna order the LC pads, but Shinearama had been out of stock then. So had to settle for those Dodo Juice pads. Although it cuts well, the velcro is the let down.

Getting LC pads for myself is difficult, as it costs quite a lot, and getting through people is not an option.

Wahhahaha my love for carnauba will never fade! I have topped up M21 with M26 which is a carnauba wax

Clever hehe. Im also not able to shake off the Carnauba fever either. Its addictive as I shall prove, later in this post.

Experience is the key word - No matter how much you read on the web and see the results, you will always discover something unsaid anywhere else with your car and your paint.

Oh man you are so right here. The reading makes it look so easy, but it isn't. Once it comes to practical, all hell breaks lose. Practice Practice Practice - That will improve your technique and your knowledge.

I also felt that its better not to follow blindly someone's technique - as different persons make themselves accustomed to the machine in their own ways. So following blindly had me going nowhere. Better to adapt the important points from good techniques and then slowly devise your own method as you get comfortable with the machine.

The first time I tried, swirls weren't going at all. Was totally sad that day and even thought of selling off all these equipment. Ya it was really that bad. After practising on Keystone's premises, I was again eager to learn more. Tried it out the next day and tried to handle the machine in my own way.

Doing multiple test spots really helped to figure out some of the technique I should use. And also doing smaller sections and progressing to bigger ones - So I started out on the hood and doing section by section and test spot just to see what was working for me. After that next day, on the roof I progressed even faster and today completed my doors within half an hour into totally swirl free.

Giving it time and practising really helps. Another thing I realised, if its not working for you on a particular day, forget it, do something else, come back the next day with renewed determination.

Getting constant encouragement from the ace detailers also helped a lot to overcome the hurdles.

I was very disappointed when the well established techniques I heard from others did not work. One left bad holograms on my paint and the other (Zenth technique) was totally useless for me. Perhaps its something that I'm doing wrong; or it may be with my selection of rotary/pad/compound. Unless I see someone else proving to me about the other technique working on paint as bad as mine, I guess I'll never believe!

Maybe another detailing get together might solve your doubts and also help in improving your technique. But i thought you were having excellent results. The Zenith technique was a bit too confusing for me.

Hehe you need to see it in person. My hatch and bumpers are both single stage. I used a different technique/strategy on the bumpers than hatch; Got swirl free finish in just one step compared to two on the hatch. It's all about learning and evolution this

HighOctane and I were discussing the same thing yesterday about your paint - since in the sanding photographs we could see yellow dripping off, so definitely single stage. Its great because single stage paint looks even more gorgeous on regular polishing.

Originally Posted by blackasta

What does the junta say about chemical guys hex logic pads?
Thinking about getting a few. They are available in 4" size and should fit my DA power system perfectly.
Was also reading about open / closed cell structure - interesting stuff!

Chemical Guys hex logic pads are good - they are rebranded BuffnShine pads. So if you can source BuffnShine ones, it will be a bit cheaper.

Open cell - closed cell is pretty simple - Open cell will absorb the product, therefore requiring you to constantly keep adding product / the previous product not being used completely.

Closed cells are tightly packed and provide minimum absorption of products - therefore most of the product stays on the pad surface - ensuring your product gets fully utilised.

It is mostly useful in case of compound and polishes. LSPs can be applied with both open and closed cell doesnt make much of a difference. For Compounds with working time, it is a problem.

Originally Posted by Waxeloquent

Well, after 3 months of starting to do a beginner's detailing (shouldn't even call that) - wash with ONR, Meguiars quick detailer and Turtle paste wax, all manual effort with proper applicator pads and MF clothes, I guess I must move on to something which saves labour. The White Duster is large and the work is taxing even though we do this only once in a month. It takes as much as 3 hours start to finish. Yes the water beading is good as we found in couple of rains. But I do think the shine certainly is absent.

Yes its definitely a time consuming affair to clean the Duster. Shine will come back once you polish it. Mike Phillips says, Your clear coat is a window to the paint - just like through a dirty window the objects look hazy (even if the object are clean), same is the case with the paint. Once your clear coat (window) is clean and free of swirls and surface imperfections - the paint will shine through very well.

With regards to your queries answered in Bold within quotes:-
The questions to The experts in this forum:

1. What should be the DA polisher I should look at and which is available in Bangalore or within India?

-Meguiars g220v is available in Bangalore currently. Kestrel DAS6 will be coming soon is what I hear. Both will be available in Bangalore


2. What other accessories one should get along with the polisher?

-The minimum requirements will be
- 2 x compounding pads (usually Orange)
- 2 x polishing pads (Usually green)
- 2 x finishing pads (usually blue or black)

@blackasta has suggested the rest.


3. What reasonably priced wax, polish, sealant I should look at for regular upkeep? Though I planned to buy Collinite 845 or 915, I want to finish the Turtle Wax I have; should last another 2 more rounds. Is Collinite still the right choice?

- Collinite is a great choice. Gives you long term protection as well as shine. Currently Im thinking of trying out M21 sealant after seeing SunnyBoi's delicious results. All are reasonably priced. Sealant would be easy to apply and remove btw.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by Parthasarathig

I was gonna order the LC pads, but Shinearama had been out of stock then. So had to settle for those Dodo Juice pads. Although it cuts well, the velcro is the let down.

Getting LC pads for myself is difficult, as it costs quite a lot, and getting through people is not an option.

One suggestion. LC 6.5inch Pads are available with nirmal/mohsin. Buy it and trim it down to 5.5inch. Still cheaper than buying 5.5inch pads, say from here : http://www.autofresh.in/home/search?q=lAKE%20COUNTRY

Originally Posted by Parthasarathig

The first time I tried, swirls weren't going at all. Was totally sad that day and even thought of selling off all these equipment. Ya it was really that bad.

Precisely why I bought the rotary! DA Polisher with cutting pads was still taking too much time, probably as much time using hands.

Even with the rotary I was getting meh results. Then upped the speed/compounds and slowly learnt how to taclke my car's paint.

Originally Posted by Parthasarathig

Getting constant encouragement from the ace detailers also helped a lot to overcome the hurdles.

Amen. I've got lot of supoort from our resident detailers! Not to mention all machine compounds I use with the rotary!

Originally Posted by Parthasarathig

Maybe another detailing get together might solve your doubts and also help in improving your technique. But i thought you were having excellent results. The Zenith technique was a bit too confusing for me.

Zenith works best with DAT (Menzerna and older Megs products). I dont have any DAT so I guess it never worked for me.

Originally Posted by Parthasarathig

HighOctane and I were discussing the same thing yesterday about your paint - since in the sanding photographs we could see yellow dripping off, so definitely single stage. Its great because single stage paint looks even more gorgeous on regular polishing.

I love single stage! They give you a much better finish/gloss/depth than ones with clear coat!

Originally Posted by Waxeloquent

1. What should be the DA polisher I should look at and which is available in Bangalore or within India?
2. What other accessories one should get along with the polisher?
3. What reasonably priced wax, polish, sealant I should look at for regular upkeep? Though I planned to buy Collinite 845 or 915, I want to finish the Turtle Wax I have; should last another 2 more rounds. Is Collinite still the right choice?

1. I'd suggest a rotary. SKIL 9080 sells for 5K.
2. Get a LC Orange and LC White pads from either nirmal or mohsin. Use it with low speed and you should be good. Don't fear the rotary!
3. Carnauba Wax does very little/no effect on white paint. Sealants work best. Try out M21, I got fantastic results on my light coloured paint, similar to yours. If you do want to try Carnauba, try out a sample and invest if it works for you.

[Waxeloquent]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

1. I'd suggest a rotary. SKIL 9080 sells for 5K.
2. Get a LC Orange and LC White pads from either nirmal or mohsin. Use it with low speed and you should be good. Don't fear the rotary!
3. Carnauba Wax does very little/no effect on white paint. Sealants work best. Try out M21, I got fantastic results on my light coloured paint, similar to yours. If you do want to try Carnauba, try out a sample and invest if it works for you.

Thanks a lot; I heard rotary is hard for newbies like me. Is that right? Believe me this is the first time in my life I had done some waxing etc; otw it was one of the boys throwing water and "mopping" the cars :(

I was looking at Partha's suggestion on DA polisher but the price seems out of reach (15K?).

M21 & Skil 9080 - would have the names/sources?

Thanks again, cheers

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by Waxeloquent

Thanks a lot; I heard rotary is hard for newbies like me. Is that right? Believe me this is the first time in my life I had done some waxing etc; otw it was one of the boys throwing water and "mopping" the cars :(

I was looking at Partha's suggestion on DA polisher but the price seems out of reach (15K?).

M21 & Skil 9080 - would have the names/sources?

Thanks again, cheers

Rotary takes time to master. However keep speeds low and it will take literally an idiot to damage paint.

You can ask Nirmal to take a rotary training session. On that thought, It would be very helpful if professional detailers introduce a weekend course for teaching the art of mastering a rotary for everyone who is interested!

For the 15k spent just on DA, you can get a rotary, whole host of pads,compounds/polishes and waxes/sealants along with professional training. Far better deal if you ask me since you'll have to spend again on
pads,compounds/polishes and waxes/sealants.

M21 - Nirmal.
Skil 9080 - SP Road.

[asdfvinay]

Experts,

I am also planning to get a polisher to work on my car after the mansoon. I was eyeing the Bosch GEX-125 which is around 5k and fits my budget.

What is your opinion on the GEX-125? Is it recommonded to go for it or should I choose Skil 9080 suggested above and why? I have never used machines before for compounding /waxing.

On the other hand, I recently bought Collinite 845 and used it on the car two weeks back. After two weeks the finish still feels slick though not as good as on the second or third day. Previously I was using Turtle wax and the likes and the slickness would vanish within a week. Driving around couple of days in rains, water beading is great. I'm loving Collinite.

Can I use Formula 1 liquid wax on top of Collinite once every two or three weeks to keep that slickness?

Thanks,
Vinay

[Waxeloquent]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Rotary takes time to master. However keep speeds low and it will take literally an idiot to damage paint.

You can ask Nirmal to take a rotary training session. On that thought, It would be very helpful if professional detailers introduce a weekend course for teaching the art of mastering a rotary for everyone who is interested!

For the 15k spent just on DA, you can get a rotary, whole host of pads,compounds/polishes and waxes/sealants along with professional training. Far better deal if you ask me since you'll have to spend again on
pads,compounds/polishes and waxes/sealants.

M21 - Nirmal.
Skil 9080 - SP Road.

Much value the advice! Yes Skil 9080 appears to be the VFM solution. The biggest concern is my lack of experience.
YES to the suggestion of some "demo" session by experienced members.

Another question; how good is the Meguiars white wax, is that carnauba?

Cheers

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by asdfvinay

I am also planning to get a polisher to work on my car after the mansoon. I was eyeing the Bosch GEX-125 which is around 5k and fits my budget.

What is your opinion on the GEX-125? Is it recommonded to go for it or should I choose Skil 9080 suggested above and why? I have never used machines before for compounding /waxing.

The Bosch is a sander. I'm not sure how would anyone attach backing plate and pads on it to use it as a polisher.

Why bother when you can get a proper rotary for the same price?

Originally Posted by asdfvinay

Can I use Formula 1 liquid wax on top of Collinite once every two or three weeks to keep that slickness?

Dump the formula 1. If you need slickness, add another coat of Collinite on top. Multiple thin coats will add to the wax and increase protection!

Originally Posted by Waxeloquent

Much value the advice! Yes Skil 9080 appears to be the VFM solution. The biggest concern is my lack of experience.
YES to the suggestion of some "demo" session by experienced members.

I was talking to Nirmal and he says he will be conducting a session sometime very soon.

[asdfvinay]

Thankyou for the replies SunniBoi.

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

The Bosch is a sander. I'm not sure how would anyone attach backing plate and pads on it to use it as a polisher.

Why bother when you can get a proper rotary for the same price?

Oh, I have no idea of the backing plates. I thought the difference in sanders and polishers is in the rpm and orbit sizes. If the backing plates are completely different, then I think I can not go for Bosch. I shortlisted Bosch only because it is a DA in affordable price.

Dump the formula 1. If you need slickness, add another coat of Collinite on top. Multiple thin coats will add to the wax and increase protection!

Price difference, Formula 1 liquid wax costs under 400. So was planning to use it between Collinite applications. I use Formula 1 wash and wax for washing and happy with it, so thinking of giving their liquid wax a shot.

Leaving other things, are there any negatives in using Formula 1 liquid carnauba wax(or anyother liquid carnauba wax) on top of Collinite?

I was talking to Nirmal and he says he will be conducting a session sometime very soon.

Wish there were some sessions in Hyderabad too.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by asdfvinay

Thankyou for the replies SunniBoi.

Its SunnyBoi

Originally Posted by asdfvinay

Price difference, Formula 1 liquid wax costs under 400. So was planning to use it between Collinite applications. I use Formula 1 wash and wax for washing and happy with it, so thinking of giving their liquid wax a shot.

Leaving other things, are there any negatives in using Formula 1 liquid carnauba wax(or anyother liquid carnauba wax) on top of Collinite?

There are far better alternatives than formula 1. Whats the quantity you get for formula1 @ 400rs?

Most VFM Carnauba Wax has to be Meguiar's M26. Its easily one of the best carnauba waxes, even I have it on my car as the top coat! Its Rs 656 for 473ml, cannot possibly imagine how any Formula 1 stuff can be better

http://www.autofresh.in/exterior-car...20-83069923325

[asdfvinay]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Its SunnyBoi




There are far better alternatives than formula 1. Whats the quantity you get for formula1 @ 400rs?

Most VFM Carnauba Wax has to be Meguiar's M26. Its easily one of the best carnauba waxes, even I have it on my car as the top coat! Its Rs 656 for 473ml, cannot possibly imagine how any Formula 1 stuff can be better

http://www.autofresh.in/exterior-car...20-83069923325

Formula 1 is also 473ml, but at Rs.656 Meguiars will be the one I will get. Thanks for this suggestion.

Regards
Vinay.

[Waxeloquent]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

The Bosch is a sander. I'm not sure how would anyone attach backing plate and pads on it to use it as a polisher.

Why bother when you can get a proper rotary for the same price?

Dump the formula 1. If you need slickness, add another coat of Collinite on top. Multiple thin coats will add to the wax and increase protection!

I was talking to Nirmal and he says he will be conducting a session sometime very soon.

Thanks SunnyBoi for taking intiative to talk to Nirmal.

Nirmal I will get in touch next week on return to take some more inputs from you and order a few stuff as well
based on that.

I am a newbie and hence will need to avoid mistakes before investing on rotary and stuff

Cheers

[mithun]

Anyone used Pop-a-Dent ? Is it a hogwash ?

[Thad E Ginathom]

Certainly not hogwash: this is a domestic version of a professional tool. No clue as to whether this particular one is worth buying.

[SunnyBoi]

Took the car out today, time for quick photos!



Cleaned the tyres and alloys for the first time. Looks good actually.