[harikrishna.te]

Originally Posted by Parth46

Hi All,

Request to mods: please move this query to a more suitable thread if inappropriate for this section.
My Grand i10 is around a month old and due for it's first service and I wanted to seek the forum's guidance around the best practices to be followed during the first service. I have been extremely careful during the initial running-in period and things are going smooth.

Please share any pointers or things that need to be done during first service? From my side, i'll insist that the engine oil and oil filter be changed, even if the SA says no. I understand the first service is mostly inspection, but there might still be some important things that might need to be done.
Also, the gearbox has been very notchy since day 1, and engaging reverse is a pain ,it gives off a loud grinding noise almost 99% of the time it's used. It engages super smoothly in the morning, when the car/engine is cold, but after running for a few KMS the shifts become a bit notchy and not too smooth. I take precaution to fully depress the clutch while shifting gears but the gearbox behavior is less smooth than I would prefer. Please advise.

Thanks,
Parth

I don't know if this question has been answered but I find myself in exactly the same boat as Parth.

My Elite i20 Asta VTVT is almost 2 months old and is due for the first 'check-up' service this weekend.
I too want to get a few pointers on what to insist on/ask for during the first service.

The 'notchy' feel may be a design attribute but the reverse grinding sound certainly isn't. I have to roll the car forward a few inches before I can try the reverse gear again. The sound is quite loud and I intend to raise this with the Hyundai guys.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Hari

[aspire]

Originally Posted by harikrishna.te

I don't know if this question has been answered

Thanks
Hari

The grinding sound comes, if you have not fully disengaged, please try and depress clutch fully. In the morning the reverse gear stuck happens, I was told by SA that it happens due to oil not being warm enough, so suggested slotting in 1or 2 gear, and then engage reverse, been doing that for a while, dint get any issue after that.
Regards
Shailesh

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by harikrishna.te

The 'notchy' feel may be a design attribute but the reverse grinding sound certainly isn't. I have to roll the car forward a few inches before I can try the reverse gear again. The sound is quite loud and I intend to raise this with the Hyundai guys.
i

I’m not familiar with this particular car, but on many cars the reverse gear doesn’t come with a full synchromesh. So many cars will face similar issues. Which means it might grind a bit to get it into gear. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn’t. Depends on the position of the various gears when you are engaging reverse.

As pointed out, make sure you stand completely still before engaging reverse, make sure you depress the clutch fully (check it actually goes to the bottom and doesn’t catch on for instance door mats), putting it in 2nd or 3rd gear first and then in reverse helps as well.

Good luck

Jeroen

[harikrishna.te]

Originally Posted by aspire

The grinding sound comes, if you have not fully disengaged, please try and depress clutch fully. In the morning the reverse gear stuck happens, I was told by SA that it happens due to oil not being warm enough, so suggested slotting in 1or 2 gear, and then engage reverse, been doing that for a while, dint get any issue after that.
Regards
Shailesh

Thanks! Will try that out. As I said, if I roll into first or second, and then engage reverse, it doesn't occur. Maybe it's the oil.

Originally Posted by Jeroen

I’m not familiar with this particular car, but on many cars the reverse gear doesn’t come with a full synchromesh. So many cars will face similar issues. Which means it might grind a bit to get it into gear. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn’t. Depends on the position of the various gears when you are engaging reverse.

As pointed out, make sure you stand completely still before engaging reverse, make sure you depress the clutch fully (check it actually goes to the bottom and doesn’t catch on for instance door mats), putting it in 2nd or 3rd gear first and then in reverse helps as well.

Good luck

Jeroen

We have synchromesh on commercial vehicles for the reverse gear. I can't understand why they wouldn't have one for passenger cars. I hope to see the conversion soon.

I will check the doormat to see if there's any hindrance. Thanks for your suggestion!

Any other general points for the first check-up?

[GTO]

These are the kind of maintenance no-nos that destroy a car. Gentleman drives a Honda City, but can't even go to a proper place (e.g. Windshield Experts) to sort his water leakage issues from the rear windscreen? The only way to maintain your car is the 'right' way. Good labour, original parts, preventive maintenance. If you can't do that, your car will age prematurely.

[ard1955]

I always use the water from the water purifier instead of the tap for my windshield washer. Difference is noticeable because the tap water used to leave streaks and clogs your washer lines.

[Sophomore]

With all lot of attention going towards the new Baleno and it's facelifted version, I would like to draw and divert the attention of experts and owners of old Baleno to refresh their priceless knowledge and experience to help me give my car a much needed life support. For me the old Baleno without leaving any scope for doubts is a gem of a machine and such a pleasure to drive.

Attaching a pic of my 14 years old car just to attract some sentiments ):


Although there are many isolated threads addressing some of the issues, still I would like to start a new thread in a sense to have all my issues in one thread for easy follow-up and easy reference. And also hoping this would fetch more readers so that I could get some advice.

For better readability and understanding the issues, I would divide this into 3 sections:
I. Briefing
II. Snapshot of major repair works done in the last 2 years
III. Current issues

I) Briefing:
Vehicle details: Maruti Suzuki Baleno VXI
Manufactured: Oct 2004
Engine: 1.6 Petrol, 94 Bhp
Current ODO: 91,000 km with 14 years of service.

Usage is very low and mainly in city, currently kept as a secondary option in our garage after a recent addition of new car. So the usage will again go down.

III) Snapshot of major repair works done in the last 2 years

Works done after@70,000 km:
Complete overhaul of clutch and gear box – Rs. 15,088
Works done after@80,000 km:
Front axle R+L replaced- Rs. 11,750
4 new 15” alloys + 4 Tyres – Rs. 41,600
Remote locking: Rs. 4600
Rear shock replaced: Rs. 14,250
Brake pad: Rs. 3585
Scheduled maintenance: 2603

Grand Total (for two years): Rs. 93,476


III) Current Issues:
I went for a TD with my FNG mechanic couple of days before and I will list down his initial observations to each issues, I did not leave my car at the FNG as I am hoping to get Team BHPians advices prior to it
.
1. Juddering and jerking: I can feel the car judder and jerk and it is very much observed while idling. The sound from engine bay drastically increases and becomes very noisy when AC switch is turned from OFF to ON.

2. Sudden Stalling: The car randomly turned off while driving after getting check engine light. But we were able to start right after the incident, and we were able to drive and CEL is also not shown. We faced this stalling issue 3 times. For reporting the temp-gauge was well in the middle during the stall.

Note: I have gone through a thread (link given below) and based on it I asked my FNG if it is an issue with the CAM sensor, but FNG is in a view that we would not be able to start the engine if the CAM sensor is damaged. How can we check if it’s an issue with the CAM sensor or not? If not, how can we trace the issue and from where we should start diagnosis. Kindly shed some light on this.
Link: https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...rent-flaw.html (Baleno Camshaft Position Sensor - Inherent Flaw??)

3. AC: After cold start and engine reaching the operating temperature, AC starts cooling for initial few minutes and then after that the cooling is not there and it is only the blower which is running. And as mentioned earlier the sound from engine bay significantly increases when AC switch is turned from OFF to ON position.
FNG initial thought: AC compressor gone bad.

Note: We have faced all sorts of issues earlier with AC and have spent a good amount of money on it. It gets resolved for a period and some issue pops out again. And if I remember it correctly, AC compressor has also been replaced some 3 years back. Our running requires 100% AC and we need this issue to be resolved without making a big hole in the pocket.

4. Coolant leakage: We have noticed green fluid leaked in the parking spot some one month before. But this happened only once and never repeated again. Needle in temp-gauge is well in middle for all our drive.
FNG initial thought: Might be a leak in the radiator.

5. Suspension: Vibrations are felt all over the floor when the car goes over a light pothole. And to the extent that vibrations are felt even when the car goes over a strip of Botts dots (little bumps in between lanes on the roads). Thud-thud sounds are also observed and it is mainly from the front side.
FNG initial thought: Need to check stabilizer bar bushes.

6. Brakes: We have replaced front brake pads and it is only some 3000km old. But still the braking is not felt good and it is in such a position that questions our confidence in braking even at average speed ranges of 60 to 70 kmph.


93k rupees in 2 years for maintenance and that too without including fuel costs and insurance has taken a toll on us psychologically. And sourcing of spare parts and infamous $GP just adds fuel to the fire. And also with all these current mechanical issues piling up and thanks to my low technical knowledge I am currently with two options:
1. Sell and stay away from the pain of repairing and also re-registration which will be due by Dec-19. With double mind we even listed our car on few online platforms as well, but Rs. 1 lakh is the offer we have got. [I hate this option]
2. To repair and keep the car for another few years as a secondary option as we have already added a 2018 Baleno to our garage. Currently a budget of not more than Rs 30,000 for the repair works is what we have in mind.

I would like you to help me take a better and a rational decision.

[NaXal]

Hi,

I am unable to find any appropriate thread for my question so putting it here. (MODS) Kindly move my post to a suitable thread if required.

I have a Santro Xing Facelift (2012/3) in my family. This car is primarily driven by multiple chauffeurs (poorly) and have covered close to 1.35L KM's. Maintanence are done but I don't have any record of it. Off late I am asked to bring it up to shape for another 2 years of duty.

I am driving it since last couple of days to assess the task needed. Below are few observations,

Smaller work

Wiper blade are making noise, washer fluid motor isn't working, claddings are damaged in front wheel arches. Radio antenna broken so after market HU isn't able to play FM properly. Only one rattle from left rear side. Seat belts are not retracting and extremely hard to operate. Horns are sounding really weak & at times only one of them working.

Rest of the interiors are holding good, yes they have aged but nothing broken, no rattle.

No rust on exterior, no paint/dent related issue either.

A/C working at an acceptable level. Nothing fancy but keeps one passenger & his driver comfortable.

Tyres were replaced 8 months ago.

Headlights are bit strange, upper beam working excellent but lower seems to be from a different world. There is a heaven & hell difference of illumination between upper beam & lower beam. Feels like upper beam is 60w where as lower beam is of 35w. There are no visible damage or discoloration of the headlights.

Major Issue

Rear suspension feels really hard, where as front suspension feels no travel and some what sunk.

Steering is really hard to operate.

Brakes lacks progressive bite. Feels like on / off switch. I guess clutch & accelerator are wire driven, may be they need replacing also. May be the mounts of engine gear box too needs some checking since releasing clutch gives that jerk once in a while.

I haven't driven the car in its early age so I can't compare engine performance. However it's returning good fuel average (around 15kmpl) so I am leaving engine/clutch out of this maintenance work.

My questions / plans

I plan to short out the smaller stuff from any F.N.G with after market parts. Wiper blades, wheel arch cladding, wiper washer motor / line etc. I may replace both the headlight bulbs with 60/55 to check.

Coming to the major work, I have few questions.

1. Which engine oil to go for considering 5k KM's drain interval? Manual is recommending 15w40. I am unable to find much in local market. Kindly suggest from brands like Motul / Shell / Castrol / Mobil etc. I am not willing to spend on full synthetic considering my 5k KM's drain interval. Car is under that interval, and present chauffeur tells me most of the time Castrol (not sure about the type or grade) is used for the change.

2. Any idea about the costs or work involved in suspension/steering related work? I am planning to visit both Hyundai ASS & a near by Mahindra First Choice multi brand Service station to get quotes on this work. Some input from experienced members would be useful so that they don't make a fool out of me.

3. Same question as point number 2 with brakes too.

Thanks.

[Sophomore]

Originally Posted by Sophomore

III) Current Issues:
.

Updates on issues:

1. Juddering and jerking:
2. Sudden Stalling:
3. AC:
Update: Issue 1 to 3 is narrowed to AC compressor gone bad issue. Details of diagnosis in this thread (When is it time to overhaul the engine ?)
Approx cost of Compressor (Quote: Rs. 19.5 k).

4. Coolant leakage:
Update: Not able to find the root cause, has to be monitored.

5. Suspension:
Update: a. Lower Arm Front RHS gone bad: To be replaced (Quote: Rs. 9.5k)
b. Front both tie rod ends to be replaced (Quote: Rs. 3.5k)
c. front both Stabilizer bushes to be replaced

6. Brakes:
Update: Fluid changed and brake bleeding done. All the parts got cleaned. brake pads are only 10k km old, so no issues. [Query for experts: FNG only did bleeding from one wheel, they are holding the view that as the vehicle is quite old if bleeding is carried out in all the wheels then Master cylinder might fall into issue].

PS: All these steps for diagnosis has been carried out from my FNG with the directions from many BHPians. Thanks to all those who pitched in and helped. This is such a lovely forum.

[NaXal]

Update to my previous post on Santro Xing GL Plus works.

I visited few authorized workshops of Hyundai & all of them were quoting around 40k+ for suspension / steering issue / brakes & clutch. That's not all, there were word of caution that price may increase after opening up.

A nearby Mahindra First Choice Multi-Brand service center caught my attention. Had a word with them and found their setup to be at same level as an authorized service center. They were much flexible with their approach to my work and agreed to allow me stay with the car while they open up and discuss with me about work I plan to do.

So I went ahead with this workshop. Their administration was dead slow (in sourcing the spares) but the mechanics were really honest and well trained. Total bill came at Rs. 14,500/- + Rs. 1400/- (for out side engine oil).

List of major works done excluding the minor repairs,

1. Front Disc rotor & pad replacement
2. Front axle bearing + boot (rubber housing) replacement & repair job (both side)
3. Rear hydraulic suspension kit were replaced (both side)
4. Steering overhaul / Front suspension (no parts were found in need of replacement)
5. All fluids (brake / Coolant / power steering) & filter replaced
6. Many other small, minor repair / replacement (like wiper blades, wheel arch cladding etc)

Happy with their quality of work and over all experience. One stop solution since they sourced the parts. Best thing is their flexibility about genuine Hyundai or OEM. They leave it up to the customer to decide.

[Shashwat B]

Originally Posted by NaXal

I visited few authorized workshops of Hyundai & all of them were quoting around 40k+ for suspension / steering issue / brakes & clutch. That's not all, there were word of caution that price may increase after opening up.

A nearby Mahindra First Choice Multi-Brand service center caught my attention. Had a word with them and found their setup to be at same level as an authorized service center. They were much flexible with their approach to my work and agreed to allow me stay with the car while they open up and discuss with me about work I plan to do.

So I went ahead with this workshop. Their administration was dead slow (in sourcing the spares) but the mechanics were really honest and well trained. Total bill came at Rs. 14,500/- + Rs. 1400/- (for out side engine oil).

I have always given my vehicle to Hyundai service centers but off late, they seem to be charging us through the roof. I had enough of being looted by them. I have found a very knowledgeable mechanic near my house and he and I work on my car. I will try Mahindra First choice for service. There is a center 5kms from my place.

[McLaren Rulez]

I have a VW Polo that is now four years old and the bumper has picked up a couple of scratches, just under the front lip. They are completely under the car and therefore invisible but deep enough that they will not just buff out. Apologies for using another member's pictures but they are similar to these, but much smaller in size.




My questions are the following

1) Given that the scratches are on the bumper and very small, am I okay to leave them for now or do I risk any rusting issues? That is, should I fix them now as they happen or accumulate more and get them all done in one go?

2) If I fix them now, what should I look out for from my paint guy? I'm planning to do this at an FNG.

[vnabhi]

Originally Posted by McLaren Rulez

I have a VW Polo that is now four years old and the bumper has picked up a couple of scratches, just under the front lip. They are completely under the car and therefore invisible but deep enough that they will not just buff out. Apologies for using another member's pictures but they are similar to these, but much smaller in size


My questions are the following

1) Given that the scratches are on the bumper and very small, am I okay to leave them for now or do I risk any rusting issues? That is, should I fix them now as they happen or accumulate more and get them all done in one go?

2) If I fix them now, what should I look out for from my paint guy? I'm planning to do this at an FNG.

Option 1 is better. A plastic bumper cannot rust.

[Darkman]

Originally Posted by McLaren Rulez

I have a VW Polo that is now four years old and the bumper has picked up a couple of scratches, just under the front lip. They are completely under the car and therefore invisible but deep enough that they will not just buff out. Apologies for using another member's pictures but they are similar to these, but much smaller in size.

My questions are the following

1) Given that the scratches are on the bumper and very small, am I okay to leave them for now or do I risk any rusting issues? That is, should I fix them now as they happen or accumulate more and get them all done in one go?

2) If I fix them now, what should I look out for from my paint guy? I'm planning to do this at an FNG.

Just leave it as it is. Since they are under the car, you can install a front lip bumper and completely hide the scratch.
Even with small visible scratches on the bumper, my advice would be to not have it painted. VWs have high quality paint with a thick clear coat. If not done from a highly qualified paint shop, it could result in paint mismatch.

[VWAllstar]

Hopefully we get a post with a immaculately maintained automatic car especially DSG.

We are at the cusp of Automatics being preferred more than manual transmission. So better to have some information on how to mechanically keep them as new for a long period.

Know few Vento and Polo TSI which has been driven almost a Lakh KMs now but they are not a part of this forum. Eagerly awaiting someone to come up with the wished post soon