[bblost]

This may be a litle off topic and I request the Mods to delete this if they feel its not needed.

Everyone trying to make the engine smoother needs to ask themselves why they let it become rough.
If you had bought a new car was it not your responsibilty to take good care of it.
Changing the oil, driving with care in traffic, going easy on the clutch and so on.

If yours is a second hand one.
You need to learn how to spot a good car.

Whats the point of ill treating an engine and then trying all sorts of stuff to make it better or smoother.

Take good care of your engines.

But then again how many take good care of themselves.

This is like someone quitting smoking on their dead bed.
(from Fight Club)

[abhik]

Originally Posted by bblost

This may be a litle off topic and I request the Mods to delete this if they feel its not needed.

Everyone trying to make the engine smoother needs to ask themselves why they let it become rough.
If you had bought a new car was it not your responsibilty to take good care of it.
Changing the oil, driving with care in traffic, going easy on the clutch and so on.

If yours is a second hand one.
You need to learn how to spot a good car.

Whats the point of ill treating an engine and then trying all sorts of stuff to make it better or smoother.

Take good care of your engines.

But then again how many take good care of themselves.

This is like someone quitting smoking on their dead bed.
(from Fight Club)

Look on the brighter side, if somebody is trying to make a good well-maintained second-hand engine/car even better like mine, even if it calls for an experiment? I would go for it.
How would you know how it feels to be there without being there?
(Dont remember from where but sure was a quote)

[finetuning]

Originally Posted by rakowli

Today i have done 160+ kms on Pulsar after BA Treatment. It has become butter smooth to drive now. no engine noise and vibes have almost gone. now i have started to like my biking again as it was no fun left in my bike the mileage had gone down. I did some mileage setting from my mechanic and did the BA Treatment to make it more smooth. and it has worked. THanks FT.

Oil filter in pulsar is of mesh type fitted deep inside.I found that its not absolute requirement to change in case of pulsars.So keep on logging Km.

Did you noticed smoother and soft kick start and smoother Slick gear shifting. All khat khat noise must had gone.

One can get increased FE with this in the range of say 3 to 7 kmpl. But one need to retune engine at carburetor end with reduced friction environment. Many of my friends are getting 62Kmpl with pulsars. These figures seems unbelievable with 150cc pulsars but thats true.

So next time when you tune at your mechanic ask him to tune for increasing FE as you can offset more power with more FE.

[finetuning]

Originally Posted by bblost

This may be a litle off topic and I request the Mods to delete this if they feel its not needed.

Everyone trying to make the engine smoother needs to ask themselves why they let it become rough.
If you had bought a new car was it not your responsibilty to take good care of it.
Changing the oil, driving with care in traffic, going easy on the clutch and so on.

If yours is a second hand one.
You need to learn how to spot a good car.

Whats the point of ill treating an engine and then trying all sorts of stuff to make it better or smoother.

Take good care of your engines.

But then again how many take good care of themselves.

This is like someone quitting smoking on their dead bed.
(from Fight Club)

Even if one wish to have new car feeling in old cars its almost impossible.Being a motorhead we all take care of our vehicles so much.
The essence of this application lies in improving the technological drawback in engines and lifting the functioning of an engine to new level.

Even if one changes oil so religiously & take utmost care then also friction cant be reduced that much.Thats beyond our control.

New technology/concepts always seems so dangerous till in long term they prove themselves.

Look at the economical aspects of this. One cant change his car bcz its not running like new. Imagine power being freed up in such a fashion that too long lasting without any adverse effect.My car & many of my friends car had already completed minimum 30K Km with this. This is quite a reasonable long term to evaluate the application.

Sharing one good experience.

One of my friend having pulsar treated his bike in my guidance .All of a sudden after a week he called me at 11 at night with such a pleasure I cant describe.

He said he was getting FE of 62 with normal city driving(No highway).He was thinking that its his mistake calculating FE so he purposefully drove bike on Western Express highway in Mumbai from Bandra to Borivali and confirmed his FE which was above 65 with so much smoothness of engine & increased pulling power.One nee to ride such vehicles to understand. He still finds normal bikes rough & lacking that extra pulling power that his bike has.

So benefits are being passed on & on.I m sharing only after direct experience.There is total science/technology involved in this experiments.

[anupmathur]

FT, has there been no adverse effect (slippage) on the wet clutch in any of the mobikes? How is it that the boric acid does not reduce friction there?
I'm NOT rubbishing this experiment. Just confused and curious.

[Ford_madhan]

Hey Finetuning,

what will happen if top of the engine block is made of plastic(i hope) say in the case of ford ikon 1.3. will the boric acid react in any adverse manner?..

Have you tried this treatment in any ford ikon 1.3 model's?.. Please share the info..

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by Ford_madhan

what will happen if top of the engine block is made of plastic(i hope) say in the case of ford ikon 1.3. will the boric acid react in any adverse manner?..

Hey, Madhan, are you sure about this plastic thing?!
Haven't heard of any car yet with a plastic cylinder head.
Even if it is, boric acid will not harm plastic.

[Ford_madhan]

Hi Anupmathur,

I am not sure it is made of plastic or not.. but sure is not made of metal. Anyway i will check again. I think all ikon 1.3's have this sort of block. Can anyone confirm?

[abhik]

Originally Posted by Ford_madhan

Hi Anupmathur,

I am not sure it is made of plastic or not.. but sure is not made of metal. Anyway i will check again. I think all ikon 1.3's have this sort of block. Can anyone confirm?

I own a 1.6 Rocam and have successfully done the BA experiment and am really enjoying the difference.
I can gurantee you the fact that no engine block head in any car is made out of plastic(dont even think its feasible.)
The Ikons(1.3,1.6 and 1.8) use an aluminium alloy head. If you look at it from outside the head appears to be made out of plastic due to the heat resistant black paint on top.

[abhik]

Originally Posted by anupmathur

FT, has there been no adverse effect (slippage) on the wet clutch in any of the mobikes? How is it that the boric acid does not reduce friction there?
I'm NOT rubbishing this experiment. Just confused and curious.

Anup wet(as the name suggests) clutches are designed to run with the engine oil. So they are positioned near the oil sump with a part of it(about 1/3) always submerged in the oil. Oil itself being a lubricant would have resulted in slippage if that would be the case but it is'nt so, so nomatter how slippery the oil might get it would never result in slippage.

This is why wet clutches are multi-plated with pressure plates separating each one of them. These clutches will only slip when they start to wear.

[cyneverdie]

Originally Posted by RedMM340

Guys,


On another note, I have noticed a lot of folks getting "engine flushes" done. This can also result in serious engine damage. Just regular oil changes are the only safe way to go.

Best regards,

Gaurav

I'm sorry OT but do you believe that engine flushs before an oil change is not good for your car ? Of course considering it is a NEW car.
Cheers man.

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by abhik

Anup wet(as the name suggests) clutches are designed to run with the engine oil.

Thanks for that Abhik, but I asked because some friends were discussing how nulon type additives had resulted in clutch slippage in their bikes. Apparently, if friction is reduced beyond a point, these clutches cannot 'clutch' too well!

[RedMM340]

Originally Posted by cyneverdie

I'm sorry OT but do you believe that engine flushs before an oil change is not good for your car ? Of course considering it is a NEW car.
Cheers man.

Engine flushs are are bad. Just plain bad. New or old engine, you will end up flushing away the seals in the engine and damage components due to inadequate lubrication.

If you want to flush the engine do it with clean engine oil. When the drain plug is out, pour 0.5 liter to 1 liter of oil through. Or if you really want to do a good flush change the engine oil and filter after 500 k.m. Then go back to the recommended oil/filter drain interval.

[Ford Rocam]

Originally Posted by Ford_madhan

Hi Anupmathur,

I am not sure it is made of plastic or not.. but sure is not made of metal. Anyway i will check again. I think all ikon 1.3's have this sort of block. Can anyone confirm?

Its the Tappet Cover which is made of plastic.

[abhik]

Originally Posted by anupmathur

Thanks for that Abhik, but I asked because some friends were discussing how nulon type additives had resulted in clutch slippage in their bikes. Apparently, if friction is reduced beyond a point, these clutches cannot 'clutch' too well!

Clutch slippage in bikes majorly depends on the riding style as they are prone to frequent wear and tear.
I owned an 03HH CBZ a few years back and had to change the clutch plates 3 times in 37000kms that i rode it due to the frequent college boy antics being tried out by me and my friends including wheelies, burnouts, slipping the clutch to increase revs etc.
Again lubes that might be designed for cars should not be mixed with oils for bikes as the grades might vary a lot.

Otherwise the pressure plates in-between each clutch plate is designed to control the slippage due to the clutch being wet.