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-   -   ECU Remaps : About Tools, Software & Tuners! (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/190894-ecu-remaps-about-tools-software-tuners-19.html)

Hey, sorry. I had not seen this post. I hadn't got a notification. My inbox was full I guess.

About the new map, the low end feels improved. The hiccup during deceleration has reduced considerably. It is still seen occasionally, but that's okay. I think it is impossible to eliminate it without touching the poor intake of the T-Jet. Thanks for sending the link :thumbs up

Posting a video about APR. Have a look at their massive R & D center. These guys are really doing a great job.

https://youtu.be/Waq_SLSfobY

What are different Stages of ECU Remaps ?

Many were asking me about this off the forum and thought to share it here as it might be useful :).

Stage 1:
This is the basic remap which doesn't require any hardware mods. Here, the tuner won't go aggressive on fuel and boost.

Stage 1+:
Few Tuners call it an aggressive Stage 1 map or Stage 1 map with upgraded intake. Personally, I feel this is just marketing and tuner should not charge more for Stage 1+.

Stage 2:
OE Cat-con delete is a must here. Tuner can add little more boost and fuel here.

Stage 3:
Turbo, intercooler, intake and exhaust mods are required. Here the car is capable of doing 50-60 % more power than stock.

Stage 4:
This requires all stage 3 mods + upgraded injectors and fuel pumps. Water meth injection could be also added.

The above description might vary amongst tuners. But, most of the reputed tuning firms follow this. Brakes, Suspension and Clutch upgrades are also necessary as you go higher on power.

Hi Doc,

I am looking to get my Figo 1.5 remapped and am a little confused. I am experiencing a loss of power in the lower gears, my car is 34k kms old. I talked to Code 6 and they offered me a map claiming 141bhp and 295nm of torque. They also advised getting a physical, as well as a soft EGR delete. According to them, that is the cause of my loss of power.

I also got in touch with GT Tunerz and they advised me to just do a soft delete and nothing more, I am yet to hear from them about the power figures, though going by some threads on T-BHP, the power output seems to be about 130bhp and 275nm.

Code 6 is cheaper but since I am in Delhi, both the maps cost more or less the same.


One more query, I am already running grippier 195/55 MC5s so would I need to upgrade in terms of rubber or brakes if I go through with the remap? They are more than sufficient for the power on tap right now.


Please advise, I want a reliable map that aids performance too. I do a lot of cross country trips so don't want my car to fail at all.

I suggest you to get the power loss issue fixed first. You can try remap after that.

Nice figures! Do they have dyno figures of stock vs remap ? 40% gains on just remap is little hard for me to believe.

Thanks to GT Tunerz and BHPian Bhuvan , tuners like Wolf or Code 6 are able to remap Figo now. Akshay from GT Tunerz actually sent the Figo ECU to Europe and developed the protocol to tune :D.

MC5 tyres should do the job.

Going by the reviews on forum and what I heard off the forum , I would suggest GT Tunerz or Wolf Moto for Figo. Since you are in Delhi, GT Tunerz would be more convenient.

Cheers!

Yes, UNTIL you drive it, cant believe it!!

I timed my Verna 1.6D today, after the third map update from Wolf Moto. 0-100 kmph in 8.6 seconds, best figure out of few trials. Had a tough time properly launching this AT car. At last I found that pulling the handbrake while in D, releasing the handbrake while applying some throttle, quickly ramping the throttle up to 75% while in first gear and then going to WOT for the rest of the run yielded the best results. All tests were done in D mode. I need to try the manual mode as well to see if there is any improvement at all.



After the first map, it was around 10.5 seconds, measured using Dragy.

The car is a joy to drive now. Engine's mid range has become much more smoother and powerful after the last update.

FE under normal driving through Trivandrum roads in lighter traffic yields 15.5kmpl. It drops when you push it, and it is expected :)

If you want a reliable map that helps you do cross country without breaking a sweat then ask them to keep it stock till about 2200rpm. With increased fuel pressures there is bound to be a slight increase in torque overall but that cannot be reduced without a change in fuel injection duration.

I got the Cruze tuned by Tune-O-Tronics when it was 12000km and now it is at 1,88,000km and still on the original clutch. I had specifically asked Siddharth that I want oomph only in the higher RPMs, which in my case I kept above 2300rpm which I seldom reach in the city or the highway. No oil consumption as yet and only rubber parts have been changed as yet in the car.

Bye and wear your seatbelts.

After months of contemplation, finally got my Laura TSi remapped along with the requisite hardware upgrade. I had shortlisted APR and REVO for the extensive experience they have with TSi engines. Went ahead with REVO, as APR maps are typically more aggressive than REVO. Wasn't targeting anything beyond 220 wheel hp and REVO plus hardware upgrade was enough to achieve the same.

The suggestion to upgrade the hardware came from the REVO distributor - according to him the upgrades help unleash the full potential of a ECU remap. Also, the REVO stage 2 power gain isn't substantial compared to stage 1 without the hardware enhancement.

The hardware that went into car included -
AUDI red top ignition coils
REVO air intake system
An upgraded intercooler
Downpipe
Borla and Flowmaster mufflers
Sub frame bushes for tighter handling

The car was already running on KW suspension, bigger tyres and EBC pads.

TSIs are one of the most commonly remapped engines and most of the mods are tested and proven. So was expecting things to work perfectly on the very first go. However, had a few hiccups and ended up making multiple visits to the workshop.

The first issue was that the car was not required to be loud. Though Borla had a nice growl, I wanted something that would fly under the radar. The addition of FLOWMASTER and some more tweaks to the exhaust system sorted this out.

The second and the major problem was that the car was not holding the boost. Torn diverter valve is a well known issue in TSi engines and was the culprit in this case too. The old valve was replaced with a new one. But, I still wasn't happy with the performance. So we dynoed the car to realize that even with the new valve, the car was still not holding the boost. The solution was to install a performance diverter like Turbosmart/Forge.

We decided to go for the Turbosmart Kompact Dual port Diverter/Blow Off Valve as its an Electro-mechanical valve that is plug and play in TSIs and was also available with the Mumbai dealer. However, before placing the order, I did some web research on the Turbosmart BOV sound and user reviews. The woosh sound from the BOV, desired by many, was not to my taste. Most importantly, the risk of Dual port BOV causing a rich condition made me hesitant. On engines equipped with a MAF, the ECU is metering/estimating the volume of air being consumed to determine how much fuel to inject to keep the air/fuel ratio near optimum for the load. The BOV opens and lets that metered air escape into the atmosphere. The result is too much fuel and not enough air! Though Turbosmart claims the product is intelligent enough to overcome this issue (balance the amount of air vented out and retained based on way the car is driven), I wasn't keen.

Scanned the Turbosmart product portfolio and came across the PLUMB BACK version. The Plumb Back system recirculates all excess pressure back into the intake system. Seemed to be the perfect solution for enthusiasts not wanting to be noticed (no woosh as no BOV opening to let air out) but wanting the performance and reliability. The product was sourced from Australia and installed. The difference in performance was felt immediately. The car was dynoed again to reconfirm the gains and showed 215 wheel hp.

There is still some more juice to be extracted which right now is caught in the sub-optimal way the exhaust system has been fabricated. The car sounds and looks stock but is a wolf in sheep’s clothing.

Hi clevermax, does the remap alter the gearhift pattern too? Stock car in D mode [heck even in manual mode] shifts-up at around 4k+ rpm there by robbing you of any sustained acceleration.

And how does it behave in day to day city driving. Usually, I never see car go beyond 4th gear even if we touch 50 kmph. But the moment I depress the accelerator for more performance it shift up - as if it's chiding the driver! :frustrating:

Quick answer is No. Remap does not alter the gearshift pattern at all.

So I am not the only D-AT user who's not really happy with AT box shifting it too high up in the rpm range when you push the car. I had this as a requirement for Rajiv, who remapped my car. I wanted early shifts throughout the driver's-wish map range. Even though he has tried his best in achieving this, it never had any effect on the TCU which controls the shift.

Unlike DSG equipped cars like Polo, it isn't easy to mess with the shift logic within the TCU. For DSG, a simple DSG map along with ECU remap would do it.

Now since my car is remapped, I do experience a difference in down-shifting. It has got to do more with the remap itself providing more torque in the lower rpm ranges. I don't have to press the A-pedal that hard (which would result in a downshift pre-remap) in most scenarios and so there won't be a downshift. Before the remap, the A pedal would be under a heavier right foot of mine and it would result in downshifting, sometimes two gears down (say from 6th to 4th), which was really annoying. The engine would simply rev up and you wouldn't have any usable power there in the 4.1K rpm range.

I own an automatic 2014 Honda Amaze. I was wondering if I can get it tuned. Is it possible? Is it safe? Has anyone done something like this before.
Thanks

Can someone with knowledge on ECUs and tuning help me understand why my Duster’s ECU has been suspected to have failed?

Problem description and diagnosis described in this post

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...ml#post4680946

I have 3-4 days to take a call on the issue. Have the vehicle with me so I can do all sorts of driving testes required to understand what conditions make the issue crop up.

Hi Doc, I’m looking for a stage 1 remap for my Rapid 1.5 TDI AT. I’m totally unaware of this remap. By going through the forums, I think that code6/tvs is the best option available for rapid for both ECU/TCU remap. Can you please share your thoughts? I don’t want to void the warranty of my vehicle too. What will be the stage 1 remap make to the car and will it by any means scanned out by the ASC if some problem creeps up in the future.

Code 6 has done many cars with 1.5 TDI engine. Their maps should be good. You can go with Code 6 ECU remap and TVS / Code 6 remap for DSG.

Skoda can void the warranty if remap is detected. They wouldn't check for it during regular service. But a remap can be easily found out if they are specifically looking for it.