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-   -   1st Gen Honda City Owners - Problems Areas, Fuel Efficiency and more (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/26232-1st-gen-honda-city-owners-problems-areas-fuel-efficiency-more-30.html)

How did you figure out that VTEC was engaged? Sound or something else?

The vtec solenoid opens only after 5,500rpm.

Here's a vid

YouTube - vtec solenoid activating

Shan2nu

I hope i can go back to the O2 Sensor topic. I got the cane for asking a ride related question (although its still a problem) anyways..

I got mine yesterday, and since i was in coimbatore, got it fixed at "Kumsi's" (an expirenced man with good staff). thanks QuickSliver for the lead and help.
They removed the head for convient replacement. Now i'm running jus fine.
My cost for the above $38(1800/-) for the Sensor (free shiping it came with my brother :)).

I have 2 pics on my phone i'll upload it later.

The greatest feeling is seeing the YELLOW Check engine light GONE clap:

Guys
need your inputs on this one. My car is a 2001 OHC 1.5 run about 87k. Mods running are a free flow exhaust with headers from automech and a K&N stock replacement filter.

the problem is as described below

1) For quite some time now, i do not really get the required pulling power to take the car from stationary by merely releasing the clutch slowly. I know the OHC has almost non existent low end torque but earlier ( maybe 5-6k kms earlier ), slow release of clutch used to give enough torque to move on from stationary. Not anymore, I have to give mild throttle, other wise the car shudders.

** the above problem is not a serious one and i can live with that but still if a simple fix is possible, would like to do that **

now coming to the more worrying problem and I am not sure whether its related to (1) above

2) for the last 500-1000kms or so, I have started facing some issues sometimes with the engine rpm suddenly going up and coming down.it typically goes upto 2-3k rpm and then comes back down, goes up again and comes back and settles at idle. This problem is not necessarily at cold start. I live in Chennai and hence using the word "cold start" is a joke. Even a idle car should be carrying some good temperature i guess. The problem also comes in after the vehicle is in motion for sometime and is visible when you depress the clutch to upshift. ( Essentially when in neutral ).

over time, the frequency of this occurence has increased and very recently i get a related problem...

3) when i am idling - the rpm simply drops to ridiculously low levels resulting in the car shuddering big time. I can see the engine electronics working to recover from the state but the rpm keeps going down to very near 0. again this is not merely during cold start. along with this problem, i can feel an intermittent " buch, buch " kind of gas expulsion from the exhaust which is associated with the exhaust pipe juddering. This is VERY VERY SIMILAR to the "pulsating " effect you get when you have a decent sized hole in your exhaust.

I did a preliminary check on the exhaust for leakage but could not find any but not ruling it out.


What do you think could be the problem ?

are the above problems related ?

thanks for your inputs

Please do get your clutch checked. IMO problems 1 and 2 could be a worn out clutch. Dont know about the 3rd, maybe the O2 sensor which the OHC is notorious for.

Hard Reset the ECU by removing the battery negative terminal for some time will resolve this issue . Drive for few 100 km and see . If it persist even after that take it service guys . Most of the idling issues will get rectified after ECU reset

@narayan
the solution for your problems:-
1st-Clutch replacement required since clutch has worned out and hence not able to transmit torque effectively hence shuddering.
2nd-Dirty thottle body or dirty idle actuator valve.Clean the thorttle body the problem should be sorted, if it still does not go it means the IAC(Idle Air Control) valve is in its on its last legs.
3rd- problem is realted to the 2nd do the thing i advised you it should get sorted.

Its not an exhaust leakage problem
and since you have not mentioned of engine check light glowing so i doubt the O2 sensor.

I had Problem Number 2.( rapid rise and fall in rpms) Got a throttle body cleaning(TBC) done and it fixed it.

@narayan: Get a throttle body clean up done and at the same time request for a cleaning of the IAC valve. Fluctuating rpms are generally caused by a dirty IAC valve. Get the carbon deposits cleaned and you should be fine.

Thanks Guys. Will do this over the weekend and update.

reg pt 1 where you have opined that its a clutch problem, will an overhaul solve this or will a complete replacement be required ?

I am ordering O2 sensor for my type II OHC (1.5 Exi year 2000). Can anyone please confirm the part number given by our board member johnda is appropriate for the specs of my car? I plan to order 2 & bring them with me to India. Just in case I need the second one. Else I will have it for any other member of the board.

thanks in advance!

Yes ABK, this is the right part number. go ahead and order it. below are to pics of the box that i came in. I ordered and made the replacement too.

Excellent! Thanks a ton johnda :thumbs up

However, instead of ordering directly from the Denso online site am ordering it from Amazon instead because it is cheaper (no shipping charges to address in US), & besides my experience of having done a hell lot of shopping from Amazon makes me trust them to always deliver on time.

Here is the link in Amazon if anybody needs.

I too picked mine up from amazon. got it delivered in the US and it came via hand in a weeks time. saved on shipping again :D
The box had the denso web address, but thats jus the box LOL!
the package has the sensor and the grease it requires. remember the header has to cool before any work and allow them to remove the header if the old sensor is stubborn. that way they have time, access angles to work on... use of wd40.. one thing you don't want is a damage to the thread lines on a 10yr car.