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Originally Posted by DerAlte
(Post 1215880)
Are you sure it is at 1800-2000 rpm? Since the panels on the sides (rear) as well as the roof expanse are poorly dampened, they resonate at about 1100-1300 rpm, depending on the gear you are in. Usually happens in 4th and 5th. On the highway this happens when one is crossing the 70Kmph region in 5th gear. |
Originally Posted by DerAlte
(Post 1215880)
Are you sure it is at 1800-2000 rpm? Since the panels on the sides (rear) as well as the roof expanse are poorly dampened, they resonate at about 1100-1300 rpm, depending on the gear you are in. Usually happens in 4th and 5th. On the highway this happens when one is crossing the 70Kmph region in 5th gear. |
Originally Posted by chaxy
(Post 1215858)
Another issue - AC Fuse My 2.2 is Apr 08 model, Last 2 months i have changed one 20A fuse and one 25 A fuse. The AC compressor was cut off because of these fuses. Is anything wrong with my AC or can i consider as normal wear and tear on the electrical system? |
Originally Posted by v&v
(Post 1213636)
i get floor vibration and a typical resonance noise of body or differential drive in city drive. its more persistant while shifting gear from 2 to 3, prominant when sitting in the middle /rear seats. this occurs when rpm is around 2000 or less mark. i have experianced it more in city drives. One more thing driver and front seaters does not feel this noise. Is this normal ? what is the ideal gear shift rpms 2 to 3rd and 3rd to 4th. |
Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves
(Post 1215903)
Ac fuse needs to be replaced by a 30amp fuse and your problem will be solved permanently. This was done on my Safari - Apr 08 too inspite of no fuse failure. |
Originally Posted by 4x4addict
(Post 1216071)
I think this maybe equivalent to kicking the can further down the road. If the fuse keeps blowing it is because of a potential issue in the AC electricals. The idea of having the fuse blow is so that the electrical component itself doesn't get damaged. A higher amp fuse will eventually cause the the defective electrical part to fail/short eventually and if you are lucky it will still be within the warranty period. When I had my M-Class I had a similar issue. There are two auxiliary fans in front of the radiator to cool the AC condensor. Once I was parked outside waiting in the car for somebody on an extremely hot day and noticed that the AC wasn't upto the mark even at full fan speed and max cold on the thermostat. So I went outside and noticed the auxilliary fans were not working. I complained about this in my next service and they replaced the fuse. This happened on a couple of other locations so I just kept replacing the fuse. After my warranty expired I noticed that the fan stopped working and changing the fuse didn't help. When I gave it to the dealer for my next service, I mentioned this. Service adviser called me later that day and told me that the wiring harness had a short and was burned out and had to be replaced and I would have to pay for it since the car was not under warranty any more. I hung up, went to the dealership and went ape-**** on this guy. I told him that I had brought up the fuse blowing issue at every service and they just kept putting in new fuses. Since I had a complete service history at the dealer they finally offered to cover the cost even though my car was no longer under warranty. |
Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves
(Post 1216142)
The more you investigate and fidgit, the worse it gets. Just leave it alone as long as its not critical or bothering to inconvenience. |
Originally Posted by anupmathur
(Post 1203988)
And, very importantly, I am strongly against having things 'touched' in my car. I like 'stock' and will bear minor issues as long as the grease monkeys at the authorized service centres do not get their hands on my car! |
Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves
(Post 1216142)
I have a gut feeling that this Safari is an alphonso, just like adc's. :D |
Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves For all those who think that Safari is a bad product: (No intention to hijack your thread tanveer) I am not in the habit of looking under the bonnet. I did not even take my Safari to the TASS for a check up before my Spiti trip. It has never had me stranded anywhere. I honestly do not think twice before before cranking the engine. After the 15000kms service at Mandi, I decided not to change engine oil till 30000kms(scheduled service). Just to see how the car performs under extreme stress that I give it. I have recently returned from a 5000kms journey to nowhere and back(please wait till I find time for the travelogue) which included hard driving at 160kph and revving through all gears and also included approx 90kms of total 4wd offroad. The odometer now reads around 27900kms. I have seen the service light come on recently while revving and coasting on all gears. It however does not scare me, since im sure it must be sedimenter related, terribly messed up air filter, poor fuel quality and /or engine oil devoid of its properties. I do intend to get these sorted out at the 30000kms service and im confident the TASS will sort it. |
Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves
(Post 1215913)
ideal rpm for gear shifting is 2500 rpm to guarantee no vibrations. Guys, this is a diesel and cannot be driven like a petrol. Shifting at 2000rpm is likely to cause shudder, judder, vibrations, etc. There is nothing wrong your vehicle. Just drive it the way it should be. |
Originally Posted by jaysmokesleaves ideal rpm for gear shifting is 2500 rpm to guarantee no vibrations. Guys, this is a diesel and cannot be driven like a petrol. Shifting at 2000rpm is likely to cause shudder, judder, vibrations, etc. |
Originally Posted by nitrous
(Post 1216660)
Stop smoking leaves! :p 2000 is good enough. I think one can cut down a couple hundred rpms too. But, I want my boost! |
Originally Posted by adc
(Post 1216497)
Ah ha, so now the comparison base starts with exotic fruits. But why are you doing this to the VTT, it sure will take the stress now but it will show up at a later stage. No way one can use the mineral oil for 15k km, more so after all the rough driving that yours and mine VTTs are subjected to. I change oil every 6-7k but use then synthetic oil if you go for the 15k interval - even what I gather from this forum is max 10k interval is to be used for synthetic oil. |
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