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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremeshock
(Post 1073085)
Need some help on this,
my car was caught in a 3-4 feet deep rain water in my basement level garage, after draining all the water (both from my car and garage as water had entered my car), i then started my car with no apparant problems, gave it some gas and water just kept coming from my exhaust tail pipe afterwhich i went for a small test drive and noted the foll:
1. the car seems fine, no engine problems and no warning lights on,
2. tried all electronics which seems alright,
3. swtiched on the music system and HU looks to be working fine but no sound is coming from the speakers,:Frustrati
4. the horn sound is very dull.
Will be giving the car for a complete checkup on monday, is there anything i should specifically have checked by the service guys, and what possibly could be the problem with speakers? please:
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For horn, may be some water clogging causing this problem, should be easy enough to rectify by ***.
For music system, I guess problem might be due to water entering in the speaker area, since speakers are located just below the door pockets.
If there has been a short circuit due to water in the speaker connections, it may be possible that speakers may have to be replaced.
Please get every thing checked wherever possibly water might have entered and make sure water is drained out completely.
Below is few features, that I don't remember reading in the manual, but observed during operation.
1. When AC is switched on and you turn the knob to guide air to windshield (typically to remove mist clogged on the windshield), air circulation is switched off automatically, such that air is not circulated within, but fresh air intake is enabled.
--> This is the desired operation of AC, when you want to clear the mist on the windshield
2. Rear fog lamp! When you switch on the rear fog lamp, driver's side rear light glows brighter than normal.
--> This can be used to indicate a guy coming from behind with high beam switched on!
3. When car is switched off, wiper blades loosen up themselves! this is to avoid constant stress on the rubber edge of the wiper blade!
--> This slows down the wear and tear of the wiper blades (In my opinion, but no technical proof!!)
--> Manual do mention that wiper blade rest position is automatically adjusted in 5 different position for the same reason that wear and tear is retarded.
4. Typically Tyre pressure reduces marginally (upto 5-10psi) in a week if car is not used, tyre inflation is higher when car is stationary for longer periods, though if car is on roll most of the time, it is retarded to a good extent.
5. High beam bulbs on Laura is H4, which is better changed with H7, improves night visibility to a great extent, though it is not bad with H4.
Quote:
Originally Posted by anandbhat
(Post 1073095)
For horn, may be some water clogging causing this problem, should be easy enough to rectify by ***.
For music system, I guess problem might be due to water entering in the speaker area, since speakers are located just below the door pockets.
If there has been a short circuit due to water in the speaker connections, it may be possible that speakers may have to be replaced.
Please get every thing checked wherever possibly water might have entered and make sure water is drained out completely.
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Finally Skoda managed to pin-point the problem, luckily it was not the speakers but the amplifier which is placed under the seat which got wet. They have ordered for a replacement amplifier and would be getting it in the fist week of Jan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremeshock
(Post 1102705)
Finally Skoda managed to pin-point the problem, luckily it was not the speakers but the amplifier which is placed under the seat which got wet. They have ordered for a replacement amplifier and would be getting it in the fist week of Jan.
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i thought that was the airbag controller! i am glad it is the amplifier and hope the airbag controller is in some safe place behind the dash. btw, how much did the repair bill come to?
Here are some pics I took after trying to get a "flat bed" by folding the back seat.
1. lift the base of the seat and pull it forward and stack it against the front seats.
2. remove headrests and fold the backrest forward fully.
The boot floor is 2 inches lower than the folded backrest, so it is not flat :-( some padding is required to make it flat. the head rests can be removed first and stored in the rear foot well before step#1.
^^ Thanks for the info androdev.
As for the bill, it was replaced under warranty. :D
My father argued that how did the water first get inside the car cause the car was stationary, surprsingly to which they had no answer to and hence replaced it under warranty.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremeshock
(Post 1107510)
As for the bill, it was replaced under warranty. :D
My father argued that how did the water first get inside the car cause the car was stationary, surprsingly to which they had no answer to and hence replaced it under warranty.
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wow. good to hear that. very rare in skoda-world!!
Can someone tell me how effective are the K&N filters in Laura & is it good to get them put without compromising on feul efficiency and warranty of the car? Becoz every servicing the skoda guys just replace the air & oil filters, which i really dont know if they actually do it or just clean it and show it as replaced.
Was driving my car back home and then the warning light's starts flashing(one that looks like a coil, the tire pressure light, and the ESP light), gave a quick call to the service guys and went to the service station.
First they thought it might be ECU error and reset it, problem still persisted later they found out that the sensors were oxidizing (must be due to my car being in waist high water), got it rectified within 2 hours.
@vivek sharma: there is a green cotton air filter with dynamization kit for the laura available at your local petes store. This filter should preferably cleaned personally (can easily be removed and stock one refitted). Contact the service guys if it would void warranty (don't think so though). Found all this out somewhere in this site itself.
These are the accessories available for Laura from Skoda India. Does not have pricing information though.
Below link has all Laura Accessories with price in India!
?koda Auto - Laura - Accessories
New Octavia launched in EU has a 2ltr engine option, which is CRDI!
Skoda seem to be moving away from PD to CRDI as well.
Some where I read VW is now selling Passat with a CRDI engine, quietly, without any press announcement.
Well, stumbled on this problem 2 months back, while driving to Ooty. Just after about 2-3hrs of drive from Bangalore, got a puncture and then little later this light came ON!
Called up Vinayaka, and below was the conversation:
Me: Have got this engine Check light ON, should I limp to ASS?
ASS: Is it Red light or amber?
Me: Amber
ASS: Open the bonnet, remove battery connection and put it back after 15 min, and call if the light is still ON
Me: ................ OK done, but light is still ON!
ASS: Can you rev engine and see if it can cross 5000rpm in neutral?
Me: Let me check.... Yes, it goes above 5000
ASS: So it is not a major problem, don't worry sir, have your trip, once you come back visit us.
Me: Should I limit the speed or engine rev?
ASS: Drive normally sir, there will be no issues, it is not a major problem.
OK done with ordeal, spent about 1 hour on the way figuring these out... Finally continued with the journey!
Returned from the trip, and visited Vinayaka, I was told there was some intermittent problem, may be due to dust or some thing, and error code has been cleared, there is no problem with the vehicle.
But at one corner of my mind it was not convincing enough.
Went for another long drive 2 weeks back, and again this time as soon as I crossed Tumkur, again this light came on!
This time didn't call ***, instead drove as usual, drove till goa and returned did about 2500kms.
Then the search for a VAG-COM started. bought one from ebay, but after studying its PCB, it seems like I requested for Audi/VW/Skoda CAN cable, but I got a Ford VAG-COM CAN cable! and thus wasted $30!
I was not convinced enough a $350 Ross-Tech HEX-CAN is worth investing, till I met a fellow BHPian today!!
So was exchanging PM with fellow BHPian androdev yesterday, and he had a HEX-CAN Ross-Tech cable! wow... and we both worked in same Tech Park!!
So decided to meet today itself. I met a fellow BHPian for the first time, and it was amazing... we both worked may be just few building away! I must say, Thanks Androdev....
So once we met in my car, connected the VAG-COM cable, and found 2 erros.
1st was engine error, and 2nd was related to central locking convenience.
Will find out more on 2nd error later, but first error is of more concern.
Error details below:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 03G-906-016-BKC.lbl
Part No SW: 03G 906 016 DJ HW: 028 101 188 3
Component: R4 1,9L EDC 0000SG 6250
Revision: 12345678 Serial number: SKZ7Z0H4880947
Coding: 0050071
Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00000
1 Fault Found:
16683 - Boost Pressure Regulation: Control Range Not Reached
P0299 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2478 /min
Torque: 188.0 Nm
Speed: 114.0 km/h
Load: 60.0 %
Voltage: 14.21 V
Bin. Bits: 11000000
Absolute Pres.: 2029.8 mbar
Absolute Pres.: 1315.8 mbar
Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0
So error code: 16683!
couple of details found on various other forums for reference and detailed reading at the end of this post.
Summary of details I gathered from various forums:
- Boost Pressure Regulation is related to pressure built up by turbo charger.
- This could also result in loss of power ( though have not observed any in 1,2,3 gears, but 4th and 5th feel bit slower than before, could go above 120kph with lot full throttle and took really long may be few kms)!!
- This specific error code is for pressure not building up as expected.
- Possible reasons are:
1. loose hose pipe connections causing air leakage and hence pressure lost
2. turbo not working properly, due to clogging of carbon/oil
3. Boost pressure controller (sensor, I think is N75 or some thing), not functioning properly
4. Could be also due to leakage in the hose pipe.
May be this could lead from a simple hose pipe fixing to turbo replacement!
Will find out exactly what is wrong with my car on Fri, when I'll be visiting Vinayaka.
Then we went for a test drive, logging the boost pressure specified (or requested by ECU), and actual pressure built up. We both spent about an hour on the car going around, trying to find a good stretch to rev the engine better, at that time idea was to see if this error again pops up, but never it did!
In any case data collected was interesting! Then later, Androdev gave same data from his car. Below charts show the comparison.
In normal operation, Boost pressure actual will follow closely with the requested pressure above certain RPM (that is ~1500), till 1500rpm, Turbo is kind of iddle and pressure showed up to be around ~950mbar!
Pressure can go as high as ~2500mbar, depending on how engine is being revved.
Will keep the thread updated based on findings from ***, mean while attached is the comparison chart on Boost pressure between my car and Androdev's.
Thanks Anandm that was a wonderful post. I loved your analysis of the situation. Reading your post tempted me to think of buying a Ross Tech Hex can cable, VAG COM etc. but realised that I would not be able to make out either head or tail of the readings.
Of your diagnosis of probable faults, I think sensor malfunction (boost pressure, air mass or intake air temp) is the most probable as you say this occours only on long drives i.e. after the engine has run for a while.
Cheers,
wicked - you guys are good with the cars.
i bought a ross-tech cable last month - yet to test it out..
plan to do it this weekend - will definitely try to get readings and post them.
that should make it 3 readings... which would add perspective!
Thanks folks!! Credit to Androdev!!
Today I did some more experiments and thought will share it here.
Typically this should cause in loss of power, but I have not felt dramatic loss of power in normal driving, except for the fact that, it is now taking really long time to move 120kph onwards...
On my last drive, I almost kept full throttle for more than 5 minutes to go from 120kph to hit close to 140kph, but last time if I remember well, it was not this long!
So next test done on my car was to measure the torque, requested by Driver Vs what engine is delivering. Then I could observe that there is a bit of loss in power at times as well.
Will post some more with graph over the weekend!
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