[hothatchaway]

I think a second opinion is in order before deciding on whether the entire axle needs to be changed or a CV boot replacement should do. IMO, axle replacement at 70k sounds premature.

[KMT]

Just regrease the CV joints and replace boots.
If he wants to keep the car for another 3+ years he can go for full change.

[Mr.Boss]

Originally Posted by ankurbhageria

2011 i20 diesel 70,000 kms run. HASS says Axle grease boot is torn. They say both front and rear axles will get replaced

Few questions,
- When was it noticed?
- When was the vehicle last serviced? and where?
- Is there any abnormality in behavior? (Noise / vibration)

If the damage is very recent and there is no abnormality in vehicle behavior, there are chances that re-greasing and replacing the boot should do make the work horse do it's job.

Originally Posted by ankurbhageria

cost of Rs. 25,000 for parts, labor and taxes extra
Is it advisable/possible to get only the seal replaced from a third party garage? Or should he go for the complete axle replacement?

IF the vehicle is going to be used for another 50k km, you may consider the option of replacing the parts at HASS. Else,
1) Replace the complete axle assembly at FNG. It should be at least 30~40% cheaper than the above quote
2) Get it diagnosed by a reliable mechanic, replace only the ends (they call it drive shaft cup Inner / Outer) You can get it done at less than 5~8k. Did the same job in my Colleague's Fiesta (Classic) for less than 4k (1 drive shaft) including labor.

[black_rider]

Originally Posted by ankurbhageria

I am posting on behalf of my friend. He has a 2011 i20 diesel 70,000 kms run.

HASS says Axle grease boot is torn. They say both front and rear axles will get replaced at a cost of Rs. 25,000 for parts, labor and taxes extra.

Is it advisable/possible to get only the seal replaced from a third party garage? Or should he go for the complete axle replacement?

If rubber boots are torn bad and have been like this for long, axle has to be replaced. If you are already getting clicking sounds from front axles when turning at full lock, that's a sign of unavoidable replacement. If boots have only cracked; don't replace axles, replace grease and boots.

Why replace the rear axle? What's there to have gone bad? It's just a solid beam. Or did the car take a hit on rear axle?

[ankurbhageria]

Originally Posted by Mr.Boss

Few questions,
- When was it noticed?
- When was the vehicle last serviced? and where?
- Is there any abnormality in behavior? (Noise / vibration)

If the damage is very recent and there is no abnormality in vehicle behavior, there are chances that re-greasing and replacing the boot should do make the work horse do it's job.


IF the vehicle is going to be used for another 50k km, you may consider the option of replacing the parts at HASS. Else,
1) Replace the complete axle assembly at FNG. It should be at least 30~40% cheaper than the above quote
2) Get it diagnosed by a reliable mechanic, replace only the ends (they call it drive shaft cup Inner / Outer) You can get it done at less than 5~8k. Did the same job in my Colleague's Fiesta (Classic) for less than 4k (1 drive shaft) including labor.

- The problem was noticed during a service on 29th November (at HASS), advice was to replace the front axle in the near future due a leakage. Post which the car has run about 600 km. The replace advice was given 2 days ago in a follow up repair stating that there is a leakage in both the axles and as a preemptive measure, they should be replaced before all the grease dries/leaks out.
- There is a slight noise in the steering column (as per HASS advisor) when going over small bumps
- He plans to keep the car for another 2 years, but the usage pattern for the car will be as above, 200-500 km a month.

[Mr.Boss]

Originally Posted by ankurbhageria

- The problem was noticed during a service on 29th November (at HASS), advice was to replace the front axle in the near future due a leakage. Post which the car has run about 600 km. The replace advice was given 2 days ago in a follow up repair stating that there is a leakage in both the axles and as a preemptive measure, they should be replaced before all the grease dries/leaks out.

HASS should have replaced the boots during earlier service itself (or your friend should have got it done from FNG) There is no point in waiting till the part fails completely.

Originally Posted by ankurbhageria

- There is a slight noise in the steering column (as per HASS advisor) when going over small bumps

If the noise is from some other source (and not from drive shafts) why did they still keep on insisting to replace the drive shafts?

Originally Posted by ankurbhageria

- He plans to keep the car for another 2 years, but the usage pattern for the car will be as above, 200-500 km a month.

Re-greasing and changing the boots should be fine, going by the fact there is no abnormality faced.

[prithm]

Recently I overheard an senior mechanic guiding another customer regarding same Axle boot issue.

He asked him to go a small multi brand garage and get the old boot removed, cleaned and then fill with Axle grease and cover with new boot.

He clearly said. If there is no noise, hissing, rubbing or strange pulling to side or irregular steering issue, there is no need for Axle replacement. Its just plain waste of money.

I m of same opinion too. Unless you are worried or experiencing issues why bother changing it. Just clean and fill with Axle grease and get the boots replaced in a dependable FNG.

[zoiks_guy]

Originally Posted by ankurbhageria

I am posting on behalf of my friend. He has a 2011 i20 diesel 70,000 kms run.

HASS says Axle grease boot is torn. They say both front and rear axles will get replaced at a cost of Rs. 25,000 for parts, labor and taxes extra.

Is it advisable/possible to get only the seal replaced from a third party garage? Or should he go for the complete axle replacement?

HASS guys would rather wait for your part to go fully faulty than take preemptive action. Do read my experience of getting my axle changed here: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/indian...ml#post4036813

Do this:

1. turn the steering fully left and take pick up at very slow speed. Observe any sound from axle.
2. Repeat for the right side.

Sound to expect is when old machinery parts grind against each other in absence of grease. Usually sounds like "tak tak tak".

If no such sound, immediately get the axle rubber boots changed. Now, ignore if anybody says that "Hyundai doesn't make child parts". Head straight to the spares shop inside HASS and enquire. You WILL get the original boots. Buy those and visit any FNG to change. Don't try to involve any SA, he will insist on changing the axles to mint money. Cant blame them, their commission is based on that!

If sound and you plan to run the car for more than 20K Kms, go for axle change. Else go for repair either at FNG or directly at a prominent axle repair market. Usually, cities have prominent axle repair places. Your FNG guy will also take it to those places, so either ways you are good except for a little price difference.

BDW, your SA must have said Right and Left axles instead of front and back. It is highly unlikely that both need replacement or even repair simultaneously.

All the best. Keep us posted.

My the force be with you.

[fighterace]

Originally Posted by ankurbhageria

I am posting on behalf of my friend. He has a 2011 i20 diesel 70,000 kms run.

HASS says Axle grease boot is torn. They say both front and rear axles will get replaced at a cost of Rs. 25,000 for parts, labor and taxes extra.

Is it advisable/possible to get only the seal replaced from a third party garage? Or should he go for the complete axle replacement?

Even if the axle is damaged, there are repair shops authorised by axle makers who can repair them. Check with such a shop. Usually a boot change does the trick. Maruti even sells a boot replacement kit with the boots, clip and grease.

[ankurbhageria]

Thank you, everyone, for the informative replies.
I'll proceed with giving the car to a neighborhood garage for repairs.

[speedogod]

I have a Hyundai Getz CRDI. I have been facing regular CV joint issues. I have replaced the drive shaft twice with aftermarket parts since Hyundai drive shaft cost 26k. Before each of these instances, I and the SA notice that the boot is starting to tear, and when I ask him to replace the boot, I get the answer that the boot is not replaceable in this car.
If anyone is aware, could you please point me to a mechanic/garage/service center who would replace only the CV joint or the boot.

[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by speedogod

If anyone is aware, could you please point me to a mechanic/garage/service center who would replace only the CV joint or the boot.

Kindly refer to below for Bangalore city.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/bangalore/

[prsnck]

Hello Team,

I've been looking for some info on Lower arm and drive shaft for my type 2 city. Its 00 model - Edit: 1,22,000 km run and i'm still loving it.

When I went in for recent service last month, the HONDA folks (Vision Honda calicut) told me the both lower am and LH drive shaft needs replacement. As usual, Honda will be Honda - said that the whole unit must be changed as that's all that they do, no repair or part maintenance. The price quoted was :

Lower Arm : 8k change for one unit
Drive Shaft : 6k

My plan is to re-confirm with one more routine check from another dealer in calicut - Apco Honda so that I'm 100% sure and double confirm it's not a cut boot and if must need a full replacement. Reason being Vision is relatively new entrant to repair and maintenance compared to Apco. So even before that I started my analysis the auto enthusiast in me coming out

Part 2 : The following parts are available at JC road with below prices. Hope it will be useful info for anyone plans to change Arms and Axle.

Manu Automobiles :

Power Drive Brand (Imported they tell) : 1850/ Lower Arm
GSP Brand (Again Imported - Not sure which country make) : 3800 for LH Drive Shaft

JK Automobiles :
Delphi Brand : 1800 per lower arm (USA make it shows)
Delphi Brand :3800 for LH Drive shaft

Between the above brands have anyone tried using between GSP and Delphi.
Any comparisons between both or folks who have tried changing Drive shafts from Honda showroom or after market repairs please advice.

The fellow from the shop with lots of experience was vouching for GSP Drive shaft than Delphi. Also seems Delphi did not made lower arms earlier, but has started recently. Not sure info is right as per them.

Guys please recommend.

Regards
Prsn

[vidyHyd]

I had to get the driveshaft replaced on my Ertiga with the odometer reading around 40k and when the vehicle was around 4 years old.

The vehicle used to vibrate between 80 kmph and 100 kmph. The vibration would not be there below or above this range. So, I took the vehicle to multiple service centres and they were not able to pinpoint the problem. It did not give any visual indications and there were no sounds as well as indicated in this thread. I am not if this is unusual!

One of the mechanics advised me not to go on a highway! Well, since I drove this vehicle mostly in the city, I was living with the problem for about 1 year.

A young engineer at one of the Maruti Service centre identified and helped me replace the driveshaft.

[pdpyen]

Hello All,

I have been experiencing some odd sounds off my M800. Type 1.

When I start the engine and change the gear to 1st gear, and release the clutch by say, 50%, the vehicle doesn't move but makes a loud "THUDD" sound. Further, releasing clutch by another 20% will move the vehicle slowly. This doesn't happen all the time, but repeats every now and then. Also, while moving, the wheels make a "tick tick tick tick" sound.

After reading this section (all 10 pages of it), I am guessing that the driveshaft needs to be changed. Also, is there any other part which I need to have a look at? I would like to inspect the vehicle myself first before going to my mechanic. Please advise and thanks for this informative thread.

Good day ahead.