[Aroy]

The following parameters affect reaching high speeds
1. Brakes/bearing binding. Check each wheel for free rotation by jacking them up, release the handbrake and keep the car in neutral. You can also check by coasting to a stop, from say 40km/h and comparing that with another Alto. If any wheel is stiff get it checked.

2. Clogged air filter. Happens when water goes into it during the service. Check the filter.

3. Choked fuel line. Easy to check. Accelerate in the third, if fuel line is open you should reach 100 easily. In both my Esteem and the Alto K10 you can reach 100 in second

If all the above parameters are fine, then you have an engine problem. Get it checked and tuned in a workshop where they have computerized analyzer.

[guptavis]

Originally Posted by Aroy

3. Choked fuel line. Easy to check. Accelerate in the third, if fuel line is open you should reach 100 easily. In both my Esteem and the Alto K10 you can reach 100 in second

what if this parameter fails.
Is System G etc usefull for cleaning of fuel lines. havent heard of a mechanic clening fuel lines. had replaced the fuel filter at 40k mark as recommended in service booklet.

[DeOetelaar]

Originally Posted by rajeev k

Aravind's Alto is powered by the 800 cc engine and as DeOetelaar has the Vxi version with the four cylinder engine which powered the Indian wagon R earlier, performance would be much better in the latter's case.
But I also agree to the view that speeds above 100 kmph in an Alto is not recommendable.

What do you mean with not recommendable? I think the problem is not the safety of car. I just noticed some very slight problems at higher speeds if we have strong winds here.
Or do you mean that 100kmph for the Indian road conditions are enough or that the Alto has above 100kmph a bad mileage?
The imagination that animals and people could cross the roads everytime let me feel queasy.... so I agree and 60kmph would be enough in this case.

[rajeev k]

Originally Posted by DeOetelaar

What do you mean with not recommendable?
Or do you mean that 100kmph for the Indian road conditions are enough

The chaotic conditions prevailing on many Indian roads, except few expressways, 100 kmph is not a safe constant cruising speed. Even getting car-space to drive at that speed is a luxury. Further the car's dynamics also would make it a lot unsafe. Fuel consumption is not what I had in my mind then. Do you know that the legally allowed speed on Indian highways is 70kmph

[aneezan]

I have an Alto, and having had experience driving it on our highways, its right to say its not suitable. It gets very nervous about 100, the steering becomes super light. I get a feeling that i might crash anytime even with a slightest change in direction.
I have stopped using my car in our highways for over a year. Its a good city car, otherwise.

[saket77]

In my opinion, anything over 120 kmph in any car, anywhere in India is like taking a risk, be it an Alto, SUV or a Sedan. Its not only about the cars, more so about the traffic sense, road conditions and stray cattle, etc.
BTW, Alto is a light car and its strength does not lie in high speed driving, but somewhere else. Do not strain the 800 CC engine and please do not test the handling and braking capabilities of such small hatchbacks by hitting 3 digits often.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by rajeev k

The chaotic conditions prevailing on many Indian roads, except few expressways, 100 kmph is not a safe constant cruising speed. Even getting car-space to drive at that speed is a luxury. Further the car's dynamics also would make it a lot unsafe. Fuel consumption is not what I had in my mind then. Do you know that the legally allowed speed on Indian highways is 70kmph

I agree with the safety aspect.

Regarding speed limits, unless stated explicitly there is no speed limit on the National Highways. Some states limit it, here is what I have noted while driving
- Delhi : 60-70
- Haryana : 90
- Rajasthan : 90

Apart from this there is a limit in urban areas
http://indiatransportportal.com/2012/08/speed-limit/
http://hartrans.gov.in/ospeed.htm
http://www.delhitrafficpolice.nic.in...limitation.htm

[aneezan]

I have an issue with my Alto Lxi which has developed recently. There is a lot of road that I feel coming in through the front especially when passing over bad roads or stones. But I haven't had realized any change or damage in the suspension. My wife who is my daily passenger also feels this. Even small bumps/holes seem to flow right up through the steering along with vibrations. I mentioned this to MASS during my latest service but I don't find improvements. The service attendant suggested that the front tyres be switched with the back, which he did.
Is something wrong with the tyres or the suspension? Do I need to change the tyres?
The car has run about 39,000 Kms.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by aneezan

I have an issue with my Alto Lxi which has developed recently. There is a lot of road that I feel coming in through the front especially when passing over bad roads or stones. But I haven't had realized any change or damage in the suspension. My wife who is my daily passenger also feels this. Even small bumps/holes seem to flow right up through the steering along with vibrations. I mentioned this to MASS during my latest service but I don't find improvements. The service attendant suggested that the front tyres be switched with the back, which he did.
Is something wrong with the tyres or the suspension? Do I need to change the tyres?
The car has run about 39,000 Kms.

With the current set of tyres, definitely they are nearing the end of their life, but apart from that, please state that how old are the tyres in terms of years. The age of the tyres make the rubber hard and hence more vibrations & road noise develop. OEM tyres are worse at this.

Also, do check the tyre air pressure, with your own gauge. Buy one if you dont have it as its a must have for every motorist. The road side tyre walla's gauges are 99% times wrong. Hence, don't rely on their reading. Also, regarding the wheel rotation, I prefer to give the rear wheels the 'fresh' tyres which many mechanics don't understand and they insist that I use the newer tyres are at front.

[aneezan]

Originally Posted by saket77

With the current set of tyres, definitely they are nearing the end of their life, but apart from that, please state that how old are the tyres in terms of years.
==============
Also, regarding the wheel rotation, I prefer to give the rear wheels the 'fresh' tyres which many mechanics don't understand and they insist that I use the newer tyres are at front.

Thanks for your thoughts. I haven't changed the tyres yet so that also means 3.5 years and 39,000 Kms. I also thought they are due for a change. Regarding the gauge, I normally check pressure at a Shell outlet right opposite my apartment building which I trust to be reliable. However, I shall buy one.

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by aneezan

I have an issue with my Alto Lxi which has developed recently. There is a lot of road that I feel coming in through the front especially when passing over bad roads or stones. But I haven't had realized any change or damage in the suspension. My wife who is my daily passenger also feels this. Even small bumps/holes seem to flow right up through the steering along with vibrations. I mentioned this to MASS during my latest service but I don't find improvements. The service attendant suggested that the front tyres be switched with the back, which he did.
Is something wrong with the tyres or the suspension? Do I need to change the tyres?
The car has run about 39,000 Kms.

If you are experiencing "Thud-Thud" kind of noise while going over small pot holes or uneven road patches, it might be the dry caliper pins too. Best way to assess this is to park your car and with your fist keep hitting the sidewall of both the tires. You will easily hear a metallic clank which indicates worn out Caliper pins or even dried grease.

Caliper noise is very common and often gives a wrong impression that suspension is at fault. You could ask MASS to open the calipers and grease them or even replace if found worn out.

Apart from this, since you mention that you feel it on the steering too, you can get the Steering damper bolt checked and tightened according to specified torque. Additionally, you can ask MASS to open the steering rack boot, grease.

EDIT:If you are getting anything done with the steering (Greasing, tightening the damper bolt), please ensure that the negative terminal of the battery is disconnected. This will make sure that the ECU learns and provides adequate signal to the Power Steering motor after the greasing is done or damper bolt adjusted.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by saket77

Also, regarding the wheel rotation, I prefer to give the rear wheels the 'fresh' tyres which many mechanics don't understand and they insist that I use the newer tyres are at front.

I would take the side of those 'mechanics' as they have a logic behind it. Most of all modern cars are front-wheel driven & thus it is always better to have more grip on the drive wheels.
Yes they would be wrong if they suggest to use this theory mindlessly on rear-wheel drive cars.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

I would take the side of those 'mechanics' as they have a logic behind it. Most of all modern cars are front-wheel driven & thus it is always better to have more grip on the drive wheels.
Yes they would be wrong if they suggest to use this theory mindlessly on rear-wheel drive cars.

With all respect to your opinion, I would still stick to the idea of giving the rear axles the better set of tyres, regardless of the wheels getting the drive. There are reasons behind my logic too.

Talking about FWD systems, they already have the weight of the engine on the front tyres, coupled with the general weight distribution of the car, hence they get a better traction than the rear ones. But this is not the sole reason. The critical and the most important reason is that if the front wheels lose traction and skid, it will still be easier to control the car as compared to the situation when rear wheels lose traction and skid, a situation better known as oversteer.

It is all the more important while driving on wet surface, when hydroplaning is experienced.
Oversteer can be dangerous and quite difficult to control. This is my take on tyres, but the best option is to go for a new set of 4 and have a rotation at regular intervals, so that all 4 wear out equally. My another take is that I don't believe in cross rotation, but would first invite views of all on the above first.

Regards,
Saket

[Aroy]

My take is that the front wheels require better tyres as
. While braking the front tyres take the most thrust, that is why the front brakes are more robust compared to the rear brakes
. For front wheel drive cars the front tyres require more traction
. Front tyres steer hence require better traction

As a good practice tyres should be rotated and replaced as a set. Even a single bald tyre will result in loss of traction under stress.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by Aroy

My take is that the front wheels require better tyres as
. While braking the front tyres take the most thrust, that is why the front brakes are more robust compared to the rear brakes
. For front wheel drive cars the front tyres require more traction
. Front tyres steer hence require better traction

As a good practice tyres should be rotated and replaced as a set. Even a single bald tyre will result in loss of traction under stress.

Ajoy,
All your points are correct and something I agree too, but apart from your point no. 1, all other points far underweigh the risk of oversteer or fishtailing.

With respect to your point no. 1, I would agree but only partially. The point I agree is that if you lose traction on the front wheels while braking, you lose steering capability which can be very uncomfortable situation to be in.
But the risk of fishtailing or oversteering is another situation which can be very difficult to control even for most experienced drivers. This risk, IMO outweigh all other benefits stated by you, except partially for point no. 1, because you can even fishtail (of course from rear) while applying brakes. This is more true for wet surfaces too as the rear axles of the car generally have lesser load on them, hence meaning less traction too.
On the contrary, front wheels mostly have better traction due to the weight distribution of the car.