TYARI-SANSARI-KHILLAR SECTOR I saw the photos of the Tyari-Khillar road – are these photos morphed?
Not even saturated. Real. Very Real.
The “road” has been cut out of the steep cliffs dropping precariously down to the water’s edge – the River Chandra Bhaga has ploughed its way through the high mountains of the Padder & Pangi Valleys. The road follows the river upstream all the way, you never lose sight of the river. There is no other way.
Did anyone ever tell you are a fool to be driving on such dangerous roads?
I have a couple of philosophies.
1. You live only once.
2. Your car is as capable as you are.
Dangerous? Yes, you can get crushed under a boulder that can fall down the cliff onto your car, but I can also become an Ex- crossing the road in Bombay city too, isn’t it?
Why are these roads so bad?
One is mightily impressed with the Govts of JK & HP – and their respective PWD Departments – for having constructed and maintained such roads. No, these roads are not under the control of the Army, BRO or GREF simply because they are nowhere near the border with either Pak or China. Expect less efficiency & funds for maintaining these “local” roads, but one must salute the bull-dozers, workers & contractors who work ceaselessly to keep this road open & motorable. Everytime I cross a workmen crew, I can sense their appreciation that someone is driving on the roads they have built & repaired with such hardship & dedication.
You feel a proud citizen of India when you see money so well-spent in building roads in such difficult places & enabling remote area populations to travel anywhere in the country. Jai Hind.
Ah ha, I can see the road on the maps, is it this road? Kishtwar to SH 37 - Google Maps
That is a Google Map link of the Kishtwar-Khillar "road"
Yes, that is the road we took in the first half of the day. The 20 kms cost us 8.5 hours, starting from Kishtwar at 545 am, reaching near Khillar at 245 pm.
Does this road close down during winter?
The entire country side we drove through receives heavy snowfall during Jan-Feb, including Kishtwar & Khillar towns. Khillar is cut off from the rest of the country, but for this road. This Kishtwar-Khillar road is kept open throughout the year despite the snowfall although you can expect major blockades from time to time. It is a crucial gateway for the residents of Pangi Valley to get their farm produce, food & essentials & medical help to & fro.
What would you do if your car breaks down or worse?
A well-maintained car should not break down. That is the first belief with which we embark on journeys on such “dangerous” roads and to inaccessible remote regions like these.
If you do have a problem with your car, you should have your wits & smartness to diagnose the problem and repair it yourselves, depending on the problem.
If it is beyond your understanding or abilities, then if you have a support vehicle (like we were the Scorpio & the Safari), then the car can be towed out – we always carry towing ropes with us – or get another pick-up to help you. You have no choice but to be towed to Kishtwar even if you have broken down near Khillar since you have no facilities at any other place.
If the unmentionable does happen, I do not think it is worth anyone’s while to go down pick up the pieces.........it will be one definite nirvana down to the water’s edge several 000 metres below.
I have heard that water crossings can be dangerous – what about this road?
There were several water crossings. All of them were benign. But yes, I guess they can also become malevolent at some times – say, after midday – as the day’s heat melts the snow in the upper reaches & increases the water flow & force, making it impossible for any vehicle to cross. Luckily, we did not encounter any such situation, probably because the sky was overcast (we never saw the Sun) and the weather was very cool & pleasant.
Did you have “crossings” with other vehicles on the narrow stretches?
This is a oft-repeated question. Firstly, there is hardly any traffic, the only ones being the jeep taxis & the pick-ups. No, we did not see any other people like us or private cars like you. Like most of you, most of India has never heard of these roads & except for motoring freaks like us, the region holds little to interest even the above-average tourist since it connects nothing with nothing!
We did have “crossings”. Sight the oncoming vehicle miles in advance – since the cliff face is open & visible for several miles – and plan where you will push your car to the side so that it can pass. There are several “wider” places where 2 vehicles could nudge past each other (with mirrors folded up, some manoeuvring here & there, tyre almost off the edge, etc). We did not have to reverse anywhere. Patience & good manners is the name of the game.
How many kms are these narrow cliff ledges?
From Gulabgarh onwards till Khillar, it is almost continuous driving on the edge, all of 50 kms or so, with some places where you run through some jungles. Road is narrow, dirt, some places have loose soil or rubble where your tyres can spin. It is a steep climb almost all the way, especially between Tyari & Sansari. Road curves are sharp, there are several hair pin bends & water crossings are many. Due to the dry weather, no slush, but I guess if it rains hard in Padder Valley, this will be a crazier “road”. I would dread to drive the Tyari-Sansari sector at night. There was no fog when we drove. NO high passes on this route.
Is this Kashmir or Himachal?
Padder Valley of Kashmir till Sansari check post. Pangi Valley in Himachal.
At Sansari check post, you were videographed? Why?
This practice is prevalent at this check post. The policeman at the check post makes you all stand before the car, and shoots you with a video camera – with the car’s number plates visible – for the record. I believe this is part of the anti-insurgency measures to keep tab on terrorist movement (don’t ask me how!)
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You did not go into Khillar? Where does one go from there?
Khillar is the main “town” in Pangi Valley. It has a Rest House & a small lodge.
From there, the road south on goes to Lahaul valley/Keylong & thereon to Manali/Leh.
The road west – and the one we took – goes to Chamba Valley/Pathankot.
We do not have to reach the town, one can turn off before itself to connect with the Khillar-Sach Pass-Chamba road.
For those who reach this point late, it is best you stay back in Khillar since the next sector has to be done before dark since it is equally dangerous as this Kishtwar-Khillar sector we had just come through.
I am impressed that the lady in your group could manage – how did she really?
Don’t be fooled by her innocent looks. She is a trekker & an outdoor person. She walks, climbs & runs. She does not get motion sickness. She does not whine for toilets. The whole outdoors is for all of us to use. We were really fortunate to have someone of the calibre of Megha Jain-Joseph in our company.
Do you get bottled water everywhere?
You must be joking!?
Our team has a philosophy of carrying along its own water from source to destination.
I hate buying water.
I hate plastic bottles.
We stock our own water, we refill en route from springs & restaurants/ hotels where you get natural spring water. The “mineral” water we drink is no match for the Kinleys & Bisleris which many drink.
We are Indian. Even if the water is contaminated, we will survive, and keep writing travelogues!