As we leave the lake, the track gets bumpier. I would say it gets a lot bumpier. There are a few water crossings, and they are mostly dry and sandy, with sharp point angry looking rocks. The little vegetation also starts vanishing, with some red shrubs for company.
As you can see towards the horizon, the road starts rising. Right before chushul, there is an unnamed pass. There are no signboards, just a marker and flags, and many ignore it. But its not to be ignored. It offers something...
But before that, we have a lot of ground to cover. As we go away, we glance back at the lake called Pangong. This is our third trip, but I am sure we will be back for more. Pangong is something you cannot have enough of.
The track towards Chushul
As you rise, you get a glimpse of Pangong again, with red shrubs for company. Autumn is the season of colors here, as opposed to Spring.
And then, little before 11, we are at the unnamed pass. I told you it offers something. Well here it is. It offers the last glimpse of pangong, before you go down. Yes, its the last glimpse of pangong, that 'most people' get.
We decide to while some time here, and savour pangong. After all, isn't it the last glimpse? This unnamed little pass is our 9th pass of the trip.
And then the track goes downwards, towards chushul
Finally we are at Chushul
And here lies our problem. Now where? Last time we had gone 'left', as suggested by everybody who had done this route, and gone to Tsaga La, and then to Loma and finally to Hanle.
However, today we were not going to take that short route, we had to take the longish route. The route from Chushul to Mahe.
It exists for sure, but where.
In such conditions, the first thing to do is ask locals. Well not many locals are around in Chushul.
We finally find a school, and a pick up truck parked there. I speak to the driver, and he guides me towards the Erath route. I will have to reach the head of that route, and then turn left towards the Army Camp. But he warns me that the route is not "motorable".
road construction is under way, its all rocks, and tires will be cut, and we will get stuck....
Not a good Omen I must say.
Anyways, we head towards the Erath route, and then again ask for directions, and finally we reach the Army Camp.
Its a big camp, and as I cross the checkpost, I can see everybody looking at us. In their shock they do not stop me, but 20 meters past, I hear whistles.
Time to promptly stop.
And get down.
The checkpost guys are pretty amazed. What are we doing here, and where are we going? I explain I need to go Mahe, and I have permits for Chushul as well as Mahe.
In this dialog I notice that regiment is "Punjab" regiment.
That upps my hope, and I ask to be let through.
Sorry, no go says the officer. Two or three more officers come, and they are ery very amused to see a Safari from Punjab in these parts.
They are happy to see us.... but they do not have the authority to let us pass. Permits etc., are for police posts, for Army, well it depends.
So here we are, at Chushul, figuring out what next, when the officer remarks, well we have to ask our CO(Commanding Officer). There is a regiment few kms ahead, and he sits there.
The checkpost phones ahead, and then begins the task of locating the CO.
Finally, after 15 minutes he is on the phone.
I hear one sided conversation
Two people...
Couple....
Going to Mahe...
I egg on the check post soldier to tell "couple from Ludhiana, having permits from DC office".
And he smiles and says so. I can almost feel the smile coming through the telephone, and "mission accomplished".
We are ready to go! Yay.
But before we go, we are given a dire warning "That road ahead is hell"