A lazy lunch and nap followed and our host offered to take us on a different trail on elephant back in the evening.
The forest is across the road from the resort and in 20 minutes we were in dense jungle. The jungle here seemed more compressed, more intimate, more like a ravine with dense foliage.
Our elephant was named Padma and now I spent more time trying to understand the commands the Mahout was using. You never know when you need to steer one yourself!!
We reached the first watering hole only to find a herd of Sambar. We had just been discussing that a full grown Sambar weighs 300 kgs and were astonished to see them scale an almost vertical climb up a ridge as they scampered away on our arrival.
Our host who knew the region well asked the Mahout to head deeper to the second water hole
As we meandered through the dense thicket, surrounded by ridges on either side we realized how vulnerable we were. Easy game for a maneating leopard or tiger. We were simply a spring away for them!
We noticed we had company at the second waterhole as there was another elephant with two foreigners and a mahout waiting, looking earnestly in a direction. As we approached, they signalled in silence. I didn’t have to rack my brain to figure out what they were trying to say as I caught onto a strong, intense whiff of tiger!!! There was a tigress just 70 feet away and we had disturbed her as she was planning to come down for a drink. She stopped halfway and settled on a ledge which was slightly above us.
What transpired next can never be described aptly as the two elephants suddenly started to behave crazily. Our elephant Padma started slamming her trunk on the ground making a loud cracker like phat phat sound. Between trumpets she also started to rumble. Now I had seen many a documentary that spoke of how elephants use low frequency sounds to cummunicate with each other over miles. Try experiencing a rumble while sitting on an elephant back. It was literally like an earthquake and the whole howdah was shaking as Padma started rumbling, snorting, trumpeting and wanting to move back. The other elephant too was reciprocating. The moment was tense and almost electric. I didn’t want to lose the tiger and the mahout tried desperately to calm Padma down. In all this commotion my nephew, only 7, a huge fan of elephants, started to cry saying the elephant was upset and she was going to drop us on the ground. Between the tiger, the elephants and a crying nephew I had to juggle my attention and salvage the situation. Our host suggested to the Mahout not to push the animal further and we backed out and made a higher approach. And there before us lay the empress of the forest. A magnificent Royal Bengal Tigress, totally relaxed, totally unnerved by the commotion, resting on grass flitting flies away with her tail.
What a sight. Some icing on a cake!!! To see her so relaxed in her domain, her home, her territory, with no care for what we were doing. She almost was posing for us, knowing these humans get a kick out of watching her. She just lay there allowing us to view her to our heart’s content.
We almost felt like we were intruding on a very private evening and we decided to leave. What sight! Three tigers in 24 hours. We were told not everyone gets so lucky.
As we made our way back it was almost 6:30 pm and the forest grew quite dark.
Elephants have poor eyesight but extraordinary smell, hearing, and memory so it was quite an experience to observe Padma making her way out of the forest using only her smell and memory. My nephew was quite panicked about the situation and felt we were doomed to be lost in the jungle. I had to patiently explain how elephants work their way in the dark and make sure his discomfort reduces while enjoying the eerie charm of a dark forest. It was a lovely experience to walk out on elephant back from a dark forest. Something I will always remember as being hauntingly beautiful.