Darchen/Tarchen or gateway to Mount Kailash is the base camp for yatris doing the parikrama. Its a small town at a height of 4650mtrs or 15338 feet
The journey from Chu Gompa to Darchen is just about 40kms on a smooth tar road. This road joins the border town of Taklakot and Darchen and when finished would finally join to Karakorum in Pakistan, hence reviving the old silk route.
GETTING READY TO START FROM CHU GOMPA
Since we had only a small distance to cover we started late. The road was good hence it would take us more than 1 hour to reach Darchen. Also once we descended from a small hill, the rest of the journey was in vast planes called the Barkha/Parkha plains.
PARKHA PLAINS ON THE SLOPES OF MT. KAILASH
The Parkha plains are vast pasturelands between the slopes of Mount Kailash and the Rakshas Tal. These plains are used by numerious nomads as feeding grounds of their cattle. These plains are mostly fed by rivers coming down the slopes of Kailash and criss crossing the meadows.
NOMADIC SETTLEMENTS WITH THEIR CATTLE GRAZING IN PARKHA PLAINS
The smooth tar road is suppose to continue till Darchen, but the drivers decided to cut across through the medows instead of keeping on the road. I guess they so used to bumpy roads that smooth roads do not suit them.
JEEP TAKING SHORT CUT ACROSS THE PLAINS
BACK ON SMOOTH ROADS
Mount Kailash was covered in clouds most of the time, but the cloud were adding to the beauty of the whole surroundings.
MT KAILASH COVERED WITH CLOUDS MOST OF THE TIME
At a distance we could see Darchen town nestled in the south slopes of Mount Kailash.
DARCHEN TOWN NESTLED ON THE SLOPES OF KAILASH
We reached the hotel and setlled down. one room had about 14 beds and was getting very crowded. So as to live more comfortable, well only relatively, mom and I decided to sleep the night in a tent.
THE NAME OF OUR HOTEL
The first thing that had to be done here immediately was to order for ponies and porters for those who required them for Kailash parikrama, starting from tomorrow. The list of yatris and their requirements was handed over to Tenzing, the Tibeten Guide whose duty was to arrange for the same.
OUR TENT
Out of a our group of 24 yatris, 14 yatris, including Mom and I were interested in doing the full parikrama of 3 days. 7 yatris were interested in only doing the first day of the parikrama and return back to Darchen the second day. And 3 were not keen on doing the parikrama at all. Out of the 14 yatris who wanted to do the full parikrama 10 had requested for a pony and mostly everyone requested for a porter.
We decided that mom would use a pony for the parikrama and I would do it on foot. In between two of us we decided to hire a porter.
ORDERING FOR PORTER AND PONIES IN THE ROOM
Mom and I then went out into the town for a walk. Darchen town has lots of local handicraft shops and is the right place for shopping for Buddhist souveniers. e.g prayer wheels, flags, vajra etc etc. Also in the town you can get items you might require for the trek around Kailash eg walking sticks, jackets, oxygen cans etc etc. Make sure to bargain for everything you buy.
YAKS USED FOR TRANSPORTING STUFF IN DARCHEN TOWN
MOM WITH A PRAYER WHEEL OR KHOLO (IN TIBETESE)
Darchen also has bath facilities available on payment. In about Rs 150/- you can get a bathroom with hot water for shower. Towels would cost etc.
In the afternoon after lunch we decided to go to Ashtapad. Ashtapad at a height of 5200mtrs, is very close to Mount Kailash and suppose to be an important place for those following Jain religion. Its believed that the first Tirthankar of Jainism Rishabhdev meditated there. Drive to Asthapad is optional and one has to pay extra for this trip
VIEW OF KAILASH AND NANDI IN FRONT
Evening time was mostly spent realxing and preparing our rucksack for the parikrama tomorrow. Mom and I decided to carry just one big ruck sac between us. The ruck sack had the following things:-
1. rain coats
2. dryfruits and choclates
3. first aid kit
4. torch, lighter
5. swiss knife
6. extra set of clothes, very important are socks (I did not have them, and suffered later)
7. tooth brush and soap
8. wind sheater
On us I would have:-
1. camera
2. ample clothes layering plus down jacket, which if not required can be taken off and the wind sheater can be worn
3. walking stick
The rest of the luggage will stay in Darchen till we return from the Parikrama
As the sun set it was time for evening pictures again. The beautifull amber light of the setting sun on the snow peaks was a treat to watch. But the cold weather and too many photo opportunities was taking a toll on the battery life. And I needed the camera atleast till the parikrama ended. Beacuse after that would be just the return journey left.
EVENING VIEW OF THE MOUNTAINS
After taking sunset pictures I managed to pull up a coup of sorts. I managed to locate a plug point in the room and pluggeg in my battery immidiately. They would soon start the generators and I would be able to charge it atleast for some time. This would be the 3rd time after Kathmandu I would be able to charge the battery. The first two places being Nayalam and Saga
With the battery getting a new lease of life I decided to take some long exposure shots in the night. I know they are hopeless but still!!!
SOME LONG EXPOSURE SHOTS
It was getting late and more important was to save battery for the coming few days.