From Kangan we drove in to Sonamarg. Whoever said it -
Firdaus, gar baroye zameen hast, hameen ast hameen ast hameen ast. "If there is heaven on earth, it is here, it is here, it is here", was so correct. The meadows of Sonamarg are pristine. The river, the slopes, the beauty, I can go on and on. The place is so beautiful.
We drove past it and reached a point where road disappeared. It turned to a muddy trail full of rocks. Rocks did I say? I was incorrect, they were boulders. The incline was steep. Mud loose. Rocks and boulders in abundance. As we gained height, the drop on one side became deeper and deeper. I was driving. We reached a point were we were to cross a small
chashma (rivulet). I slowed down to ensure the under body doesn't get scrapped. Icebeg did not move after that. The turbo lag was seeming too much. I tried pressing the accelarator pedal to floor and with tacho redlining released the clutch. A jerk, and it stalled. My hands were begining to sweat. Will Iceberg be able to go beyond this?
Got back to basics. Apply handbrake. Shift to first. Revv the engine. Release clutch in one swift motion. Grrrr... thud. It did not work. We rolled back a few meters. My mama who was very patiently watching all this, offered to drive. We swapped places. Applied handbrake. Shifted to first. Revved the engine. Released clutch in one swift motion. Iceberg roared and moved on. WOW! It is not to do with the car. It is about driving skills.
We hit many more difficult spots but mama ensured Iceberg came out comfortable. I was learning hill driving. Hill driving? Mountain off roading it was. Iceberg was being tested. And it cleared it in flying colours, or flying mud should I say. The white of Iceberg was not be seen.
We stopped by the Zozila war memorial. Army does a commendable job by manning and maintaining such difficult to reach places. The road reappeared. And this time it was one of the best stretches of tarmac we drove on. Couldn't believe the contrast.
It is a constant fight between nature and BRO. All places where the road is right on the edge of a mountain, it gets washed of by snow fall. All places where it is a little off the edge, it survives. One cannot fight the might of nature.
On our left we saw, Capt Batra Camp. Capt Vikram Batra, PVC, I had a feeling of respect instantly as I read it. This place should be close to the place where the 1999 was took place. I told mama lets stop and ask if the famous Tiger hill, Tololing, etc can be seen. We had only heard these names on TV. It was dusk. We had another 60 odd km to cover to reach Kargil. Our dsetination for the day. He was not in a mood to stop.
I requested him. We stopped on the road and asked to army officers coming from the opposite direction about Tiger Hill. What followed in the next few minutes was amazing. Those two officers explained us the details of the battle of Drass. Showed us Tiger hill, Tololing. I didn't expect these peaks to be so close to road. They told us that the road we were driving on and the bridge we were about to cross were the main targets of enemy. There is long and high wall built to camoflauge the bridge and parts of road.
The officers insisted that we stay back and spend the night with them. They almost dragged us. It was difficult to refuse the warm invite. We decided to move on keeping in mind the destination - Kargil.
As we drove past the town of Drass and onwards to Kargill we crossed a board reading - Kargil War Memorial. I wanted to see it. It was 7:30 in the evening. The only way we could have seen it was in morning. That meant we had stay in Drass. We turned back. Drove to the JKTDC guest house. Checked in. Rs 200 for a decent room for two. It is criminally cheap. They should at least charge Rs 500 for a twin sharing room.
Right outside the guesthouse is a board that reads - JKTDC Welcomes you to Drass, the second coldest inhabited place in the world. Wow! it is going to be a cold night. Yes it was a very cold night. The water is liquid ice. Untouchable.
The morning was the most pleasant one. The mountains, some snow covered and all very high looked magnificient as the sun rays kissed the peaks. We clicked a lot of pictures. Saw the Tiger hill in its full glory. Drove to Batra camp. Met the officers, who on knowing that we had spent the night at guesthouse were almost furious. Enjoyed a lovely breakfast of hot paranthas and omlette.
Saw the war memorial. It is a very nice place. Makes us feel very patriotic. Remembered my school days when I used to parade on Independence day in my NCC uniform. Clicked many more pics.
Drove onwards to Kargil.