As most of the photo load on Pangong is over, shall we continue?
27th June, 1030AM: Photoshoot over, biscuits for sea-gulls over, camera memory almost over, battery powers almost over, time to reluctantly move on. one could just sit at the lake side, watch the wheel of colours turning, ever changing keleidoscope of vibgyor magical; time can disappear here. Given a chance, I would have prefered to gaze at the ever changing moods and colours playing concert to the light and clouds. Psychologically, this was one of the most painful moments of the trip, the panaroma of the lake was so famous, we were raring to see it, what we saw was overwhelmingly delivered, going away was an anti-climax. But then, promises to keep, miles to go .......... practically so.
A word of caution again on this road, 2-3 kms after Pagal Nallah, the surface improves, you would be tempted to rip, but don't. Just when you pick up speed, you would DROP into ugly dips on the road (for water crossings when it rains) this would go on for the next 30 kms, unexpected ones; cars with low GC's would get their bottoms torn and mangled, pictures of some dips would give you an idea. Could not catch the lethal ones, two below are tamer ones...
Tangse TCP, sign in and talk to an excited family from Baroda who saw the GJ registration and were all over us. They could not believe we drove all the way from A'bad, their Innova taxi has come through Manali and the driver summed up their travel as painful, he cautioned us about the Baralacha la and the water crossings, we knew what we would get into if we go the Sarchu way.
At Chang-La we celebrated with Chai, Aby Philip was a perfect host. He introduced us to the camp doctor, he was checking a patient. Surprise, Surprise....., it turned out to be our paranoid friend from Pangong, he was still not over the phobia that he's going to die of AMS!!!! The doctor checked all of us with the fingertip oximeter, I was not keen to know as I feared mine would be dangerously low. Everyone was cleared and the doctor told me to extend my finger into the crocadiles mouth; I waited with baited breath, the docror said with a very sad face, "this is very bad", all my fears came flooding back, my pulse must have dropped and my heart was in my mouth, the thought of catchig the next day flight back to Delhi was not far from my mind, leaving dear Wolt behind and the best part of the drive was another nightmare!!!!
The doc said, don't worry, you would survive, I asked him, insisted that he tell me the reading, he said it OK, I wanted to see, he showed it to me, it was 74, meaning oxygen saturation 74%, I was confused, the doctor and his friends broke into peals of laughter ................. they were playing me on. OMG, I was so relieved, not really worried about health, happy that I could drive.
The medic said, my value was one of best in our group, values above 70 are very good and they get concerned when the values drop below 60, he said even soldiers get problems and hence they are posted at Chang La continuously only for 3 months, they are rotated up down to acclamatize them. Aby said, his tour to Siachin was the worst for any soldier, every intake of breath was pure torture, most would have thier skin and lips cracked and blistered, would not be able to eat anything for lack of appetite, they survive on soup and energy bars and would look forward to a duty on K-top or Chang La. Salutes to our soldiers for braving out on inhuman conditions to protect the country.
So there I was, happy with the news and saying, "bring them on, I need more". Zingral and Sakthi flashed past and we were at Karu around 3 PM, Prajesh and Kevin were virtually howling for lunch, any more travel without food would have been at the risk of my health. Fortunately, there was a lovely dhaba with chaval, dal etc., tasted like Manna from Heavan. We decided to give Hemis Gompa a try, turned around to cross the river and reached the Gompa around 340 PM.
Honestly, it turned out to be not so exciting for us, know of many people would would go ga-ga about Gompas, apologies to you folks, we're not the Gompa kind of people. Went inside saw what was on display and were back to Leh by about 520 PM. Prajesh said Moti market is a good place to try for bargains and spent about an hour there, nothing much, good for window-shopping.
Around 6, our friend Imran came and we went to the local supermarket where Chinese goods are sold. I found North Face articles pretty good bargains and bought a jacket, inner thermal T shirt and a cap. Found that the inner thermal T shirt was very warm and saved the day/ night at Sarchu. Kevin and Jiggy also bought jackets and other trinklets from there, looked like good bargains. We booked tables at a local restaurant KC-Restaurant ( Prajesh's choice, is the name correct?) for dinner, was a great choice. Went to a nearby internet place to check out conditions on Manali road to take a decision for the next day travel. Recent reports and videos at BCM, story of an I10 crossing a stream, an Endy scrapping the bottom and a 4x4 Safari turning back at Baralacha La were enough to send shivers down anyones spine. So we decided to decide the next day morning whether we would return the Srinagar or Manali route and enjoy what's left of the day.
Went to KC restaurant, the world cup footbal mania was on, the place was packed and vibrant. Great place to have a drink and food on the open terrace, lovely service too. My appetite was back; raring to go after the oxygen saturation news; Jiggy and Prajesh watched me in amazement as I devoured almost a full Tandori Chicken, this is a new Avatar of Ramky they are seeing. As far as I am concerned, I felt good, I ate good , things are back on track, the animal within is unchained !!!!!
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