The advantages of tubeless tyres have already been spelt out. I feel that it is wise to go tubeless if there is a lot of highway driving involved. Tubetype tyres should be used if the car is confined mainly to the city, if the roads are very bad and also if the car is mainly chauffeur-driven. Most of these drivers will not take the care needed to maintain tubeless tyres.
In general alloy wheels are preferrable for tubeless tyres, but steel rims are also fine. The only catch with steel rims is that the smaller ones (12" and 13") are prone to bending if driven roughly over bad roads. I had tubeless tyres on 6-year old stock rims for about 10000 kms and they held air perfectly. But the rims got bent at the fringes (not enough to let out air) when I hit a couple of potholes and so I switched to alloys. Since then everything has been smooth for the next 11000 kms or so.
Regarding maintenance of tubeless tyres, some care is needed. Firstly, one needs to frequently inspect these tyres to see if there are any nails stuck in or if there is any other damage. If any nails are found, then one should check the tyre pressures to see if there is a significant loss and then if necessary fill up and drive straight to a well-equipped tyre shop to get the puncture fixed. I have caught nails on three occasions in the first 21000 kms with tubeless tyres and on two of these there were punctures.
Secondly, it is strongly recommended to have a portable air compressor. If there is any loss of pressure (which would become clear either on inspection or by the handling of the car or upon checking with a gauge) then there is no need to change the wheel; one only needs to fill up and drive straight to a tyre shop. This is one of the great advantages of tubeless tyres, if one is willing to invest about Rs. 800 in the air compressor.
Third point regarding tubeless tyre maintenance-- have your own accurate pressure gauge (Rs 500 upwards) and check the tyre pressures once in two weels or prior to every long trip. Frequent checking of tyre pressures will alert us to slow leakage and then the problem can be promptly attended to. I caught a slow puncture this way and with great difficulty, the puncture was finally traced to the failure of a previously fixed puncture.
The main point with respect to tubeless tyres is that they they can be much more rewarding in terms of safety and handling provided one takes the minimum amount of care needed. Ideally one must never allow a tubeless tyre to go flat and catch slow leakages as early as possible by being alert; if this is done, fixing these leakages/punctures can be planned and there is no need to even change a wheel.
Someone reported a monthly drop of 2-3 psi. This can happen due to many reasons. The obvious one is that there could be slow air leakage. One should check for valve leakage with soap solution. Leakage from the bead area is very unlikely unless the rims are badly bent. Equally likely is that temperatures variations could cause some change in the readings e.g. if the tyre pressures are not measured in cold condition. Also the same accurate gauge must be used for comparison purposes. I found that when I set the pressures under reasonably warm weather and then when I checked the pressures in very cold weather two weeks later (with monsoon just setting in) there was a drop of 1-1.5 psi in all the tyres. But if there is not much variation in the ambient temperature, the pressures dropped by atmost 0.5 psi in two weeks (cold tyres).
Last edited by rks : 9th August 2007 at 20:14.
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