The 2019 model has run just 26,000 km and is currently parked at the authorised service centre.

BHPian NerDriver recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

Hi Fellow BHPians, sharing the plight of a friend as he's not on Team-BHP

26,000 km driven, 2019 Hyundai Elite i20 CVT Transmission Failure: Authorised Service Centre estimates 4.62 lakh for replacement gearbox

What is the Issue:

On February 24th, during my regular commute home, I encountered a disturbing screaming and scrubbing noise from my vehicle. Seeking assistance, I visited Advaith Hyundai Whitefield on February 27th, 2024. Upon inspection, they discovered a broken metal part and metal scrub in the lower sump of the gearbox. They informed me that, due to the nature of the CVT gearbox, repair is not possible, and replacement is necessary. The cost of the new CVT transmission is Rs 4,62,000. Unfortunately, the car's warranty expired in October 2023, and as a result, the entire replacement cost must be covered by the customer.

Details of Vehicle:

"I find it unfortunate that, with the recent expiration of the warranty, I am confronted with these challenges. Nevertheless, I firmly believe that a critical vehicle component should not fail within such a short timeframe, particularly when designed for long-lasting performance. There is no physical damage to the gearbox or any leakage of gear oils. This issue raises significant questions about the reliability of such an essential part. All routine services for the vehicle have been diligently carried out through authorized service centres, and it has been driven exclusively, accumulating only 26,000 km over the last 4.6 years. It is worth noting that the service booklet explicitly states that the CVT gear oil is designed to last the full life of the car without requiring replacement or refilling."

Current Status:

As of now, my vehicle remains at the service centre, and they are evaluating what to do next, i have been told I will have to bear the out-of-warranty expenses but the discussions are still on with Hyundai

My expectations are straightforward – I simply want my car to be back on the road at a nominal cost, which I am prepared to bear. But this exceptionally high cost is neither justifiable nor* am I capable of bearing it.

Most importantly - Is it worth paying 4.6L for a car that has just done 26K km? Is this the reliability we should be expecting from a car that costs well over 10.5L? Something looks wrong with how we perceive the reliability of the cars vs how much paying for extended warranty shields is worth.

I am attaching the relevant documents to this email. Which contains the estimation, Service history, Vehicle Pictures and video.

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

Sportz MT, Sportz MT Dual Tone and Sportz iVT customers will have to contend with a manual AC.

Hyundai has slashed the prices of the i20 Sportz trim by Rs 3,500.

It is not a significant price drop and neither is there a reason to cheer as the i20 has also lost a feature in the process. The Sportz variant is no longer offered with automatic climate control.

Instead, the Sportz MT, Sportz MT Dual Tone and Sportz iVT customers will have to contend with a manual AC. It is the same module offered in the Magna trim. Rest of the feature list remains unchanged.

The Hyundai i20 is available with two petrol engine options. These include a 1.2-litre naturally aspirated unit that puts out 82 BHP @ 6,000 rpm and 114.7 Nm @ 4,200 rpm. The engine is paired with either a 5-speed manual or an iVT.

The second engine option is a 1.0-litre turbo-petrol unit that makes 118 BHP @ 6,000 rpm and 172 Nm @ 1,500-4,000 rpm. This engine is paired with a 7-speed dual-clutch automatic transmission.

This would be our 2nd car in the family in addition to our existing 2016 Maruti Baleno which has been doing the job well so far.

BHPian SixPistons recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

Hello everyone. I believe that I am facing a unique set of options to choose from and would like some expert advice.

TLDR Version

I am stuck between buying a beater car - Grand i10; slightly larger version - Elite i20; or going with the Venue SX 1.0 Turbo SX (120hp; fully feature loaded; Really liked the drive) as a second car at home.

Original Budget: 4-5L. Will need to take a loan for Venue if I decide to go for it. Only considering used car options and Manual variants. Currently, only these cars seem to have made it to the final three.

Background

So April of last year I moved to Delhi with my family from Bangalore. Courtesy of the flexible work culture, I need to work from the office only 2/3 days a week. The drive is about 45 kms one side. Mix of City and Highway drive. 1 hour in the morning and 1.25-2 hours in the evening. I take our family car to the office as my father travels via Metro (our home and his office are within walking distance from a metro station).

Other folks in the house who use a car: Mostly my mum uses it, then my dad and finally my brother when he is visiting (he’s in college). With going to office for almost half the week and the occasional weekend drive/outing becoming a scheduling problem with the car the case for a second car has slowly been made, something I was not planning to do until 2024.

This would be our second car in the family in addition to our existing Baleno Zeta 2016 Manual 1.2 NA which has been doing the job well so far. Since I did not originally plan to buy a car anytime now, I am stuck between buying a basic hatch about 4-6 years old with a plan to buy something new in another 4/6 years or something I would be more interested in for the longer term.

Since I am in Delhi, only considering petrol vehicles. (Diesel gets only 10 years and manufacturers are slowly stopping diesel engines. The price advantage that used to exist earlier does not exist in Diesel anymore as petrol and diesel prices are not too different now) I am a frugal driver when it comes to the work commute so not very keen on Diesel anyway. My work commute mileage typically stays in the vicinity of 15.

Broad market analysis suggests I could get a used car (only considering Hyundais as I have always found them the most appealing):

• Grand i10 sportz manual 4-6 years old in around 4.5-5.3L tops in good condition(upto ~30k driven)
• i20 elite sportz manual 4-5 years old in around 5.5L-6.25L tops in good condition (upto ~30k driven)
• Venue 1.0 SX Turbo Manual 2019-2021 model in around 8.7L to 9.5L tops in good condition (upto ~30k driven)

Grand i10

It falls under Beater Segment. Basic, ok-ish space, will be fine to own for a short period of time, until I can plan better finances in future. Drive experience is quite good for a small hatch. I have driven this in the city and on the highway before at moderate speeds. What works out the most in its favour is that I would not have to take out a loan for it and I prefer not to own a car on EMIs. Also worth mentioning is that folks at home feel grand i10 is slightly cramped in space and looks are not all that great. I find looks to be good though, small and sporty enough to not look boring.

Elite i20

It is not exactly a beater. It is an enlarged version of the Grand i10 I feel. Definitely premium interior and an overall good driving experience. But since the power figures are similar (if not the same) as the Grand i10 options I currently find, the ride does feel a little underpowered towards the higher gears and while going beyond 60/70 on the highway side. What works out in favour is the better looks, a bit larger boot and a roomier cabin in the back. It does get a good suspension overall I feel so the ride quality and stability over time as the car ages would still be good overall I expect.

What does not work out in the i20’s favour is that I feel it feels pricy to get an i20 in around the 5.5L-6L bracket and that it has a poor mileage figure (I have seen real-world city drive return upto 14 kmpl on the forum itself) Also, this would be a stretch on the budget but at least I would not have to take out a loan for it.

Venue

Enter the Venue 2020 Turbo 1.0 SX Manual. I test drove one of these options and it has everything I would need for the next 8-10 years I think. The cabin is good, single-tone Black. Has a Small Sun Roof, cruise control, climate control, the Hyundai NAV System, large boot, good drive height, 120Hp Turbocharged mill which felt super awesome to drive after the habit of driving the Baleno that I usually drive. Except for the multi-dial-like instrument cluster and the smaller rear seats, the overall experience felt very good.

Other people are quite satisfied with the package overall but still on the edge considering that it's almost 9L for an engine already driven for 30K kms over 3 years. I tend to understand their apprehensions as well. I just felt that the engine has a lot of life in it apart from the 30k it has already seen and feel it should not be a major problem as modern engines are built to last 1L+ easily if cared for.

Problem with Venue is that I will have to take an almost 4L loan and plan to carry it on for only 2 years. That’s approx 20k in EMI as a used car loan seems to come at a minimum of 13 percent interest rate. (I saw a post where someone got it at much lower but I can’t seem to find it again)

I have considered some other options

• Honda Jazz (not finding very good options and has been discontinued entirely; also, Honda is not very keen on selling OEM parts outside their service center is what I have read and heard repeatedly over the years)
• Tatas (new Punch: not very good feel and fit and finish, service is usually a problem with Tata still. An area that needs improvement)
• Honda Amaze/Suzuki DZire/Hyundai Aura/Tata Tigor: Don’t like compact Sedans
• Tata Nexon: Is a Tank, very safe. Could not find a good deal and new editions are the ones that actually look nice. However, Tata after sales is still not there.
• Maruti Brezza: Old Brezza design got a bit boring. Also, have seen enough Marutis around in the family that I need a change from that design language.
• Mahindra XUV300: Not approved as low boot space and slightly awkward-looking cluster to others. Low Boot Space. Still, I would consider it if I found a good deal for a nearly loaded variant.

Some others were also considered but a consensus could not be reached.

The question I am wondering for some time now is whether I should just stick to my original budget of 4-5L and try to get a good deal on the Grand i10 itself and use it for 4-6 years/stretch my wallet a bit for an Elite i20 and it for next 6-7 years (no disrespect, I expect I will feel the need for creature comforts missing in Elite i20 in a few years)/follow my heart and get the Venue but with the loan with the intention of relishing it for next 8-10 years but with a hole in my pocket right now.

Thank you for your patience.

Here's what BHPian JohnDoe had to say about the matter:

Stick to your budget and get an i10 Grand.

Or else get a new or preowned Alto K10 or Alto 800.

Increasing your budget to buy a premium mass-market car on loan when you can purchase an entry-level car in cash seems like a financial blunder.

The creature comforts you seek now in Venue are soon going to be obsolete also the 20k EMI @13% will hinder your financial growth for the next 2 years.

Here's what BHPian 07CR had to say about the matter:

Stick to the budget and get a Grand i10. Since it's a beater car, it need not be too expensive, when especially you will be taking a loan.

Elite i20 is too underpowered, and the Grand i10 with the same petrol engine, but the lesser weight should be manageable. Avoid the Venue, IMO there are way better options in the CSUV segment.

Here's what BHPian shancz had to say about the matter:

Some points from my end:

• Elite i20 isn't a beater considering its positioning and the general maintenance costs of an old Hyundai.
• Getting a 30k driven Venue at close to 10 lakhs doesn't make sense, rather get a new one later on if you liked it so much.
• Also, the long-term maintenance of TGDi engines could add some extra costs to maintenance but I don't have enough info on it.

My suggestion, out of your options:

• Stick with the i10 as a beater.
• If requirements of rear space are a deal breaker then why not move your 6+ years old Baleno to that role and start a new hatch/sedan/CSUV/SUV hunt separately?
• If you're looking for a new city car then why not consider an EV like the eC3, Nexon/Tiago or even the hybrids like the City/HyRyder?

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

Hyundai has also increased the prices of the i20 turbo-petrol variants by Rs 21,500.

Hyundai has rejigged the i20 variant line-up. It no longer offers the clutchless iMT option with the 1.0-litre turbo-petrol engine. It will now be available with a 7-speed dual-clutch transmission only.

Hyundai also revised the prices of the i20 range. Customers will have to shell out Rs 21,500 more for the turbo-petrol variants.

Prices of the 1.2-litre petrol variants have also increased. The Magna and Sportz trim costs Rs 11,500 more and the prices of the Asta and Asta (O) variants have gone up by Rs 16,000.

The Hyundai i20 is available in four trim levels. Customers can choose from a 1.2-litre naturally aspirated petrol engine that makes 82 BHP and 115 Nm, a 1.0-litre turbo-petrol that puts out 118 BHP and 172 Nm and a 1.5-litre diesel producing 99 BHP and 240 Nm. While the petrol engines come with either a 5-speed manual, IVT or 7-speed DCT, the diesel version gets a 6-speed manual gearbox.

They work well in medium rain too but can struggle when there is extremely heavy rainfall.

BHPian Cresterk recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

Greetings, this is my first thread on Team-BHP! I created it because I could find a lot of info on putting LEDs inside normal halogen reflector housings, but barely anything about projector housings made for halogens. Searching for "LED projector upgrade" on google gives you anything from video projectors to aftermarket projector kits which come with an LED already attached to them. My car came with projector headlamps from the factory but with halogen bulbs used. Most YouTubers seemed to be modifying the base/mid model which had reflector headlamps.

So I did some research, combed through foreign articles and videos and sifted some meaningful info from the misleading, written only to sell you something or hit a word limit on a blog post / create a video long enough to get money on youtube ads. I finally ended up with a satisfactory upgrade a year ago. I will share everything I learned, here.

So starting with some basics:

The car:

My 2016 Hyundai i20 Asta(O)

It has projector headlamps with a halogen bulb and a shutter that moves for a high beam or low beam. The single bulb acts as both a high beam and a low beam. Also included on either side are halogen cornering lamps that turn on when the steering is turned more than a specified angle. They are a boon when taking corners on unfamiliar Indian roads with no streetlamps, where the area right outside your main headlamps' field of vision might hide a rock, a cliff or a sleeping cow. The main headlamps too worked decently but I was always itching for an upgrade, both in terms of colour and light output. The lights felt decent when there were no other cars around but feeble and lacking in traffic, especially when there was a vehicle coming head-on. Most people also didn't respect you flashing your lights to dip their headlamps.

The options available in the market:

• More powerful yellow halogens

Good performance and cheapest option. A high-end halogen bulb (Osram night breaker laser / Philips really vision) will provide better light output than your stock bulbs. However, it will also consume more power and your wiring might not support it.

• White halogens

Cheap but worst performance. These lights are imitation bulbs for a xenon/led look. They are just halogen bulbs with a filter to block out lower colour temperature wavelengths. Naturally, this leads to less light output, even worse than your stock bulbs, despite whatever the cover might claim. (osram cool blue intense / philips bluevision)

• HID kit retrofit

Most powerful and expensive option with a lot of drawbacks. HIDs have their own headaches they come with including modifications to the car, warm-up times etc. Not really been worth it for me since LEDs became available. A warm HID.

A projector setup would be the best for light output and visibility though if you go towards the high end. They are meant only for low beams since they would seriously blind opposing traffic.

• LEDs

The newest and most efficient option available aftermarket. A quality LED setup is hard to weed out from all the cheap options masquerading as the latest and best but worth it if you are willing to put in the time to sort through them. They turn on instantaneously which means it would also be suitable for HighBeam flashing. They offer 90% of the HID at less than 50% of the price.

All of them were available in plenty of sizes, suitable for all sorts of housing. My car needed HB3 / 9005. Find out what type your car requires by looking at the manual as well as the stock bulb itself.

Note: A projector headlamp assembly built for halogen bulbs is different internally than a projector made for HID or LED. Good quality/high-end LEDs are made with a thin as possible blade design and a chip that resembles a halogen bulb's filament size as much as possible. This will give it a similar light pattern to a halogen which would hit the mirror and lens assembly properly. This is very important to get actual usable light that doesn't just get scattered everywhere.

Here is a useful video that talks about the various types and designs of LEDs available on the market.

To summarise, stay away from 360-degree LEDs or fancy 3-sided, 4-sided designs. They are all just gimmicks.

Here are 2 videos that compare the various brands of lights as scientifically as possible. Do go through other videos on the channel for more detailed comparisons which will show you just how many "performance" products such as air filters, oils etc are useful and how many are just snake oil.

• Video 1
• Video 2

The basics:

1. There are a wide variety of LEDs being sold under different brand names in India on amazon and other markets. Unless they come from established name brands such as Philips, they are all identical and made in possibly the same factory. The differences are only cosmetic and the brand is just the name of the importer / drop-shipper. If interested, I will make another thread later on about how importing junk from China and repackaging them with whatever claims and wildly different prices became so popular in India.
2. LEDs consume much less power to produce much more light. The "watts" mentioned on these products are not the actual watts consumed by the LED. They claim everything from 72W to 90W to 100W to 120W. Actually, even a 30W LED would be ridiculously bright and will burn your eyes out. A proper 10W LED would be as bright as 100W halogen light. Reading the disclaimer on these products shows that a 90W advertised product is a set of 2 LEDs of 45W + 45W. In other words, one of these led headlights will provide the equivalent of 45W (claimed) halogen on one side of the car which means they will be weaker than even the stock 60W headlights. Watts is a meaningless comparison for LEDs and proper brands like Philips will not advertise the watts of their LED headlamps in the title. More on this here.
3. A colour temperature of between 5000-6000k is best to get that proper premium car white headlight look. Too high a temperature and it will turn blueish or even purplish, which is worse for visibility and also makes you look like a ricer from the early 2000s.
4. I chose a 6000k bulb to match the look of the DRLs but warmer colour temperature LEDs of 3000-4500k are also available and are the best for visibility in foggy conditions due to the refraction of light. Feel free to get them if you drive a lot in hilly areas and performance is critical.
5. Halogen bulbs produce much more heat than LEDs. So your housing and headlight assembly will not be damaged by the heat given off by LEDs. However, your LED controller chip will automatically reduce the brightness as heat increases to prevent damage so proper ventilation is always good but not in a way that lets dust or water enter so don't cut your dust caps. Passively cooled LEDs are generally low-power products and are nowhere near as effective as an LED with a proper fan heatsink.
6. If you have a german/luxury car with CANbus, it would also require a CANbus adapter or a CANbus compatible plug-and-play LED so it can communicate back with the car diagnostics. Or else the car computer will throw an error code as it cannot communicate with the bulb. Note: My car does not have it.

Products I tried:

Finding actual name-brand products in supply is hard here due to import taxes. Also, most importers take advantage of the lack of stock to inflate prices higher + if you have issues with warranty, they will be rather reluctant. Also, many of the "premium" products from Dubai, America etc are Chinese bulbs exported there and then imported here by another reseller so it makes no sense to buy them. If budget isn't an issue for you, I would recommend just getting the Philips Ultinon Pro9000 LED in a size that is compatible with your car.

1. Novsight (9005/HB3) N11 LED

The first LED I bought. Didn't have much knowledge then so I bought it mainly because it was cheap at 3k and because I saw the 60W claim and thought anything higher would burn out my stock wiring. (Refer to point 2 in the basics section above on why that doesn't matter). Remember, the brand doesn't matter, the name of the actual LED is N11 and that's how the factories identify it. Similar to how there is no actual product difference if you buy a Maruti swift from any dealer.

Installation was basically plug-and-play. I did this a year ago so I don't have any pictures. Remove the dust cover, and twist to remove the stock headlamp. Insert LED and twist it into place. Connect the wire to the socket. See if the light turns on. If not, reverse the connection.

It was decent in short distances in the dark but it struggled to throw useable light for a longer distance. It was also useless when there was another car approaching from the opposite. In traffic or highways, it was too feeble. I was double-checking whether I even had my lights on. So I returned the product and put my stock halogens back in, disappointed. Everyone loved how premium the car looked with the LEDs though so I decided to do all the research mentioned above and find a suitable upgrade.

2. AUTOBAHN LED F5

One of the videos mentioned that the F3 Led was one of the brightest bulbs they tested but the heatsink was too small and inadequate for it and it got too hot, leading to it burning away its body coating and later failing. That intrigued me so I did some research on it and realised that it was from a few years ago and that the same factory had released a newer, updated design called the F5 which came with a much better heatsink and had favourable reviews online. Aliexpress was banned so I ended up searching for an F5 led available with local sellers on amazon and found this one for 6.1k. I was expecting the bulbs or fan to fail within a few months or on road trips with sustained night driving for hours but it's still going strong.

Installation was smooth. I wasn't sure whether the bigger heatsinks and fan would fit with the stock dust cap but that turned out to be a non-issue.

Make sure to twist it so that the light-emitting sides of the LED are aimed towards the top and bottom for optimal light.

Shove the wires into the assembly and close the dust cap tightly.

A long screwdriver through this small hole will let you angle the lights towards the left or the right.

and finally, for the result:

Low beam and High beam

This is definitely what I was looking for! They are pretty bright even with streetlamps and other cars around so I have them angled downwards more than necessary to ensure I don't accidentally dazzle someone coming up a hill or while going up a speedbump.

Just look at the light output!

Flashing your lights actually makes even the most inconsiderate driver hurry to dip his headlights. No more being blinded by oncoming SUV drivers or idiots on those new Activas who drive around everywhere with their brights on. Even slow-moving cars hogging the right lane give way when you flick on the high beams and light up the interior of their car like there is a tube light in the back seat

They work well in medium rain too but can struggle when there is extremely heavy rainfall. To be fair, that was also the kind of rain where traffic slowed to a crawl and had their hazards on so I doubt halogens could have helped much either. Low beams were mostly fine but switching to high beams refracted the light right back into my eyes which made it seem like there was a solid white wall a few feet in front of the car.

To top it all off, the car looks great too! The colour matches my DRLs perfectly and it put some much-needed life into my old ride since long waiting times for new cars mean that I can't upgrade any time soon. Hope people find this post useful. I have plenty of vids while driving in dry and wet conditions with both low and high beams but I haven't figured out how to upload videos here yet.

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

The car is amazingly stable in the corners and picks up speed like a breeze.

BHPian Venkygupta recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

Took delivery of the Virtus 1.0 Topline AT yesterday. The car is an absolute pleasure to drive. The build quality felt good to me. The buttons from the cabin lights are a bit stiff and make noise when pressed, but in no way, I feel that they might fall off on bad roads.

Coming from an Elite i20, the car feels much more premium. The brake sound on really low speeds does exist but nothing to worry about as per my SA and neither did I feel that it is an issue which would bother me very much.

Overall I can definitely say that driving it made me happy and would surely recommend others to try the car for themselves before making up their mind.

This road is the New Raipur project. 70-80kms of planned, plain, deserted road.

The car is amazingly stable in the corners and picks up speed like a breeze.

I have one very very small question but you’d be surprised to know that even my SA does not know the answer to it, does this car not have a mute button on the steering wheel? Cause I have not been able to locate one.

Here's what BHPian Pequod had to say about the matter:

Don’t think there is one, but then again it took me 22 days to figure out how to answer calls using the controls on the steering.

On a different note, I had the 1000 km ‘Swagat’ check-up done last Saturday. General check with fluid top-ups (if necessary) and wash. Also received a complimentary VW branded car care kit! Gave the car around 12:00 pm and received it back around 17:30.

Received the extended warranty and service pack documents yesterday, 23 days after taking delivery of the car.

This is what’s offered under the Service Value Package (Rs.31999/- for 4 years); existing VAG owners and other members may like to weigh in on what this exactly means.

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

The 1.0L DCT is now offered in Sportz and Asta (O) trims only.

Hyundai has silently discontinued a few variants of the i20. The hatchback is now offered with three powertrain options in 19 trims. 

Hyundai has discontinued the Asta 1.2L IVT and Asta 1.0L DCT from the i20 line-up. The 1.2L Petrol IVT is now available in the Sportz and top-spec Asta (O) trims. Similarly, the 1.0L DCT is now offered in Sportz and Asta (O) trims only.

Hyundai has also increased the price of the 1.2L Asta (O) IVT dual-tone variant by Rs. 5,000. It now costs Rs. 10.71 lakh (ex-showroom).

The car is seldom used. It has been driven only 2,500 km since its last service in October 2021.

BHPian FalconRed recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

I own a 2019 Hyundai Elite i20. Recently, I'm being chased up by the Hyundai dealers to get the car serviced for a 6-month service.

• Last service: 30-Oct-2021
• KMs driven since the last service: ~2500 KM
• Daily drive: ~10 KM (car is primarily used by my wife to travel to the workplace)

The only issue I'm facing right now with my car is its front parking lights are not working. I was also planning to get an underbody coating during the next service.

Now if I decide to send my car for a 6-month service to get this fixed I'm sure the service center is going to push so many extra addons like AC disinfectant, wheel balancing, etc

Questions

• Is a 6-month service required/mandatory? If yes, then what extra service should I opt for? (to avoid getting scammed)
• As my car is still under warranty, should I get the front parking lights fixed outside the ASS?
• Is underbody coating really required for a city like Hyderabad? (I'm under the assumption it is a must for coastal areas)

Here's what GTO had to say about the matter:

Pretty sure your 2019 Elite i20 requires just a single annual service. If your dealer wants to service it more frequently, it's because he wants to pad up his bank balance. Refer to your owner's manual and adhere to the schedules listed there only. It will be once a year. Honda dealers at one time used to keep calling all us City owners for servicing every 3 months! So many people I know fell for it.

No, do it in October when you send the car in for its annual service. Assuming your warranty is valid till then.

No. OEMs over-engineer their cars. These underbody coatings & the like are required only for old school cars like my Jeep, or say the Bolero today. Do it if you want your underbody to look good (I like that clean black look).

Here's what BHPian SoumenD had to say about the matter:

Looking at the thread title I thought it was another Honda victim. Yes, we pre-BS6 Jazz owners have a 6-month service schedule.

But AFAIK, i20 has only 1 annual service. You can just ignore his requests. Unless you have some issue which needs immediate attention no need to visit ASC before your next scheduled service. About add-ons like AC disinfectant and wheel balancing, just say a stern NO. Carry your service booklet and get the jobs done mentioned in that only, nothing less nothing more. And wheel balancing, always from outside. Period!

Here's what BHPian silverado had to say about the matter:

Ask your dealer if the service is free, if yes, go ahead. Else follow your owner's manual to the T for service intervals, which should be yearly.

Underbody coating if thick can act as a sound insulator, apart from that there is not much gain in modern cars and it's just one of the things dealers try to upsell.

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.

The Asta 1.2L Petrol IVT and Asta 1.0L DCT variants will be discontinued.

According to a leaked document, Hyundai is set to offer features like electric sunroof, cruise control and automatic climate control on lower variants of the MY2022 i20.

The Hyundai i20 Sportz will get automatic climate control and cruise control, while the Asta variant will get an electric sunroof, cruise control and an 8-inch touchscreen infotainment head-unit.

The voice command feature will be available on the top-spec Asta (O) trim. Hyundai has added six new commands including a welcome message, contact info, new sport addition - soccer, sunroof controls, driver window control and navigation assistance.

Hyundai will also rejig the i20 variant line-up. The Asta 1.2L Petrol IVT and Asta 1.0L DCT variants will be discontinued.

Source: Rushlane

While it isn't very accurate, it does send me an alarm if the air pressure goes below a certain set reading.

BHPian sam_machine recently shared this with other enthusiasts.

After a recent puncture on Mysore Highway & left stranded in the night. It taught me a lesson and was searching for a cost-effective TPMS. Then after searching for a long finally installed Jk TPMS sensors on my set of 4 tyres. Got it from my friend at Rs 650 per sensor and the fitting was extra. I have mixed reactions to the sensors so far.

• Although it works with the help of an application, but the readings are not very accurate. I have tested from multiple air pressure filling stations but the readings are +- 2 bar.
• It is very useful in case you lose air pressure below certain set readings. It will give you alarms on your phone immediately. Which is a good thing at least you have time to fix the puncture before it loses full air pressure.
• Fixing the sensors are very easy, and any professional tyre shop guy can fix it.

Overall I think it's a good investment of Rs 2600.

Check out BHPian comments for more insights and information.