[amitk26]

Originally Posted by drifter

@rajismine: It's normal, my 3.0's rpm also goes up on moving the steering at standstill.

Drifter

That is power steering at play , If any load ( AC, PS ) is put ECU will increase RPM . Also on cold start needle going above 1K and then coming back to normal ( 850 - 900) is normal as ECU compensates for cold engine.

[dadu]

Originally Posted by ThE Godfather

CAn someone please tell me whats the idling speed /rpm of Safari? My resides at 1k rpm, is that normal or it should be low?

For 2.2l

- Idling Engine RPM after warmup should be 800.
- Turbo should kick in at 1400 rpm.
- At idling the load from PS and AC is felt and slight fluctuation may happen.

[ThE Godfather]

Dadu, its 1100 0r 1150 when I first start the engine then stays at 1000RPM. IS that normal or it should be less than 1k when its warmed up?

[HappyWheels]

Originally Posted by dadu

For 2.2l

- Idling Engine RPM after warmup should be 800.
- Turbo should kick in at 1400 rpm.
- At idling the load from PS and AC is felt and slight fluctuation may happen.

Its 1100 RPM for the newer ones (post apr/may 2009 models).

[dadu]

Originally Posted by ThE Godfather

Dadu, its 1100 0r 1150 when I first start the engine then stays at 1000RPM. IS that normal or it should be less than 1k when its warmed up?

Having a higher RPM at start is normal but eventually it should settle down once warmed up.

Originally Posted by HappyWheels

Its 1100 RPM for the newer ones (post apr/may 2009 models).

Ok, I was not aware of it, although mine is retroe'd but still turbo doesnt kick in at 1100rpm. It was brought down from 1700 to 1400 in the first retro.

Perhaps I need to get the next ECU update in my next visit.

[HappyWheels]

^^ Dadu,

Check with JK; reckon his 2.2 also now has the turbo at 1100 RPM, after a firmware flash. Recollect noticing something to this effect in one of his recent posts.

Regardless, get the updated version.

[jkdas]

Originally Posted by jkdas

How much would a full suspension overhaul do? For front and for rear; can I have the split?

I guess I wont have to change shock absorbers, just bushes and lot.

I was quoted 14k for front.

Originally Posted by HappyWheels

^^ Dadu,

Check with JK; reckon his 2.2 also now has the turbo at 1100 RPM, after a firmware flash. Recollect noticing something to this effect in one of his recent posts.

Regardless, get the updated version.

1100? I doubt,its smoother, linear not sudden burst of power. Will check rpm today.

[dadu]

Originally Posted by jkdas

I was quoted 14k for front.

1100? I doubt,its smoother, linear not sudden burst of power. Will check rpm today.

Even I am apprehensive about 1100 being the correct number.

You'll hit 1100 even before you blink your eye, in 1st gear below 10km/hr, in 2nd gear below 20km/hr speed, which is quite close and used only in trucks for pulling loads. Turbo will work overtime and most of the time.

[jkdas]

dadu; any idea about what all are usually changed for suspension work? I was told my tie rods, all bushes, then the long rod that connects the two sides, and one another thing (forgot its name, will post pix) had to be changed.

I also have a boom noise ( like when you have bad wheel bearing) which happens only at high speed. He said its something of the axle.

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by HappyWheels

...
Check with JK; reckon his 2.2 also now has the turbo at 1100 RPM, after a firmware flash. ....

Hey! This is not a magic wand!
Turbo 'cut-in' is not entirely 'settable' through the ECU.
This is a very real, physical parameter; it is very unlikely that the turbo provides sufficient boost at an rpm as low as 1100! There simply is not enough energy in the exhaust gases at this juncture!

[jaysmokesleaves]

OIL disaapearance update;

Well guys few months ago I discovered oil less in the engine via the dipstick. The vehicle was due for 45k service but I sent it in at 43600 due to oil disappearing. Back then they diagnosed the fault as a failed oil seperator. After replacing that I drove the safari again for 3k kms and oil was less again. So i left the vehicle with the TASS for a few weeks and told them to fix it, test it, retest it and return it only after they are sure it wont repeat again.

Report;
Got the vehicle back yesterday.
The diagnosis was that oil was going inside the turbo and the turbo was faulty and had to be replaced. Note, there were no oil leaks from below the vehicle and neither was there any tailpipe smoke.
So I now have the vehicle back and discovered this morning that oil inside the engine is way above the max mark. Now is that a new problem?
Because I have not been charged for any oil or anything.
The cost for the turbo was approx 38k covered by Extended warranty. I paid 140 Rs.

Until now TML has replaced parts worth 2 lakhs in 26 months of ownership.
This speaks a lot about their QC.
Warranty replacements and causes given below;
Clutch plate and pressure plate @ 1500kms > clutch was hard and notchy gearshift after bleeding air off the clutch.
Injectors & pressure lines & replaced @ 28k kms> service light showing.
Head replaced @ 28 k kms> because they could not open 1 injector from the head and had to replace the head to replace all injectors.
oil seperator @43.6k kms> oil level low.
Turbo replaced @ 46.5k kms > Oil disappearing without burning or leaking.

So kudos to TML and to me.
Reclaiming life part by part!!

[drifter]

I believe it could be a leak as well which isn't reaching the underside yet. Because oil in the turbo should give you smoke. Were you having any acceleration problems or unsual noises from the engine?

I had a problem with an oil leak. In my case, they replaced all the oil seals worth almost Rs 8,000, but only after a letter to the regional manager.

This problem came around 38,000kms. Is this generic? Mine is a 2007 3.0-litre. But apart from that, my dicor has been fairly reliable. Little niggles do come and go but haven't threatened it's roadworthiness. Another thing to note, I had just shifted to Delo 400 from Chevron. Don't know if the seals were from the new oil, but have shifted back to the Tata standard.

Extended warranty replacements include all oil seals, rear window winder motor, headlamp leveler and starter repair (the starter was my fault). I can safely say mine has been running quite well and has never left me stranded even on cross country drives. This especially if you consider the horror stories of the initial batches of the 2.2.

But with Tatas you do have to take extra care and keep an eagle eye out for anything out of the ordinary.

Drifter

[amitk26]

@jay the steel plates under engine have thick foam pasted to it , So if there is a small leak it will be absorbed by foam and won't show up on the floor.

That may be a possibility if you still find missing oil.

[dadu]

Originally Posted by jkdas

dadu; any idea about what all are usually changed for suspension work? I was told my tie rods, all bushes, then the long rod that connects the two sides, and one another thing (forgot its name, will post pix) had to be changed.

I also have a boom noise ( like when you have bad wheel bearing) which happens only at high speed. He said its something of the axle.

You might want to check GD's detailed Safari TCIC suspension overhaul thread

It should be more or less same for the 2.2l too, except the parts will be different and might cost slightly more.

I hope they are not fooling you to change the 2 Torsion bars which run parallel to each other on both sides underneath and across the middle of the Safari. They will need adjustment for sure but not replacement.

[HappyWheels]

Originally Posted by anupmathur

Hey! This is not a magic wand!
Turbo 'cut-in' is not entirely 'settable' through the ECU.
This is a very real, physical parameter; it is very unlikely that the turbo provides sufficient boost at an rpm as low as 1100! There simply is not enough energy in the exhaust gases at this juncture!

You got that right!

With no one else experiencing it, seems like the '1100' turbo charge was something just in my imagination!