[navin]

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

4 gauge is the minimum what you need for the 75.4.

or you can run 2 gauge from the battery to a distribution block and run to seperate 4 gauge wires from the block to each amp.

[low_bass_makker]

Originally Posted by navin

or you can run 2 gauge from the battery to a distribution block and run to seperate 4 gauge wires from the block to each amp.

You can wire it like this also...

Crimp the thimble on the wire like this...


the above is a 0 Gauge wire.

and connected them all the three like this....


Here I have connected two wires from the battery to three amps...

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

I do not understand. What do you mean by one 8 gauge and one 4 gauge? One amplifier has 8 gauge and the other 4 gauge? 4 gauge is the minimum what you need for the 75.4. I mean a real 4 gauge not claimed 4 gauge. (What brand are you using?) 8 gauge will simply not do.
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The 75.4 is a very serious power consumer. Ordinary wiring will not cut it. You need 2 separate 4 gauge wires (good quality) directly from the battery to the +12V terminal of the amplifiers. Then you need 2 4 gauge wires going from the ground terminal to an unpainted part of your chassis.

Sam, the JBL 75.4 owner's manual specifies peak current requirement of the 75.4 as 85A, and recommends 8 ga amp wiring for lengths up to 10'. The length of power cable in MF's car must be about 13-14 ft. Theoretically, the gauge should be a little higher on account of the higher distance, agreed. But with both pairs of channels running in stereo and driving speakers, will this amp draw the max current? Not even close to 85A, I am sure. The inline fuse is also 60A. I am sure that MF will not be able to blow it irrespective of the operating volume.

The 4 gauge cable is used for the 75.4 intended for the sub. This cable will easily carry far over the rated 85A for the length.

[Bass&Trouble]

Razor's setup: Uses 8 gauge cabling for the 75.4, and is using two channels in stereo and the other two in bridged mode.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/sound-...tml#post521299

And if I remember right, this kit also uses a 60A inline fuse.

[low_bass_makker]

For a amp which will run on HPF will not need so much power to run it if compared to the same amp with Sub duty on it.

The 8 gauge is equal to 10 mmsq which can carry 100 amps load.

Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes

So i think the problem is some place else than the power wire...

And moral which brand power cable you are using ?

[nura]

Will a distribution block help?

[low_bass_makker]

Originally Posted by nura

Will a distribution block help?

In which case Nura. If one is on budget then the above method is a cheap option and DIY but if DBlock is available then nothing like it.

[moralfibre]

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

Here I am. My first advice. Could you please advise me...

Point noted teacher .

I do not understand. What do you mean by one 8 gauge and one 4 gauge? One amplifier has 8 gauge and the other 4 gauge?

Yes you are right. One amplifier is run using a 8 gauge Ichibahn power wire while the other (which is not working) is on a 4 gauge Ground Zero power cable. The Ground cable used for the amplifier is also 4 gauge and about 1.5 feet in length. Now when I use the 4 gauge wire on the amp that is working it works fine (meaning the amplifier driving the speakers is working on both the cables 4ga. as well as 8ga.).

4 gauge is the minimum what you need for the 75.4. I mean a real 4 gauge not claimed 4 gauge. (What brand are you using?) 8 gauge will simply not do.

I am using a Ground Zero wiring kit containing a SURE 4 gauge cable. The fact that beats me is that the 75.4 which is working is accepting the 8 gauge cable flawlessly.

So if you connect the subwoofer amplifier to the sub and disconnect the other amplifier, the sub fires up, correct?

No it doesn't. The amp remains in protect. Now there is an interesting behaviour of the LED's first the blue one glows and stays for about a second and then it runs into protect then again comes to blue and then goes off to protect mode again.

If both amplifiers are working individually, then your answer lies right there. It's a wiring issue. Your amps are working fine.

They worked fine at Karim's shop but when he tried to connect it in the car he was surprised that it doesn't work. I am confused big time.

The 75.4 is a very serious power consumer. Ordinary wiring will not cut it. You need 2 separate 4 gauge wires (good quality) directly from the battery to the +12V terminal of the amplifiers. Then you need 2 4 gauge wires going from the ground terminal to an unpainted part of your chassis.

Chalo I agree that it requires 2x4 gauge wires for power and ground then how is it that it works on a 8 gauge cable without issues?

You can take a 16 or 18 gauge wire from the P.connect (blue wire) of your HU and run it to one amplifier remote on and from here you can loop/jump it to the other amplifier, no problem.

I will do this for the remote wire.

Don't take any chances with this wiring, you may blow up the amps if you haven't done so already. You may even damage your speakers.

Even though one amplifier is working I am not taking chances and have disconnected everything and taped it to store it securely till I can make another visit to the installer.

[clipto333]

moral, the problem is with amp im sure. please get it checked by a professional. even if the problem is with something else you could still blow your amp and/or oyher equipment. dont take a risk more than 12k are at stake. if an amp goes into protection it means there is a serious problem somewhere. like your earlier magnat amp install.

dont fiddle around please. take it to the A.S.S.

cheers
clip

[moralfibre]

Guys, any response to my post # 98?

[navin]

Originally Posted by moralfibre

No it doesn't. The amp remains in protect. Now there is an interesting behaviour of the LED's first the blue one glows and stays for about a second and then it runs into protect then again comes to blue and then goes off to protect mode again..

so that we are all on the same page....

you have 2 75.4 amps. both worked when tested at the dealers.

when you connected them to your car one amp (running on 8 GA) worked while the amp running on 4GA did not. Correct so far?

Now the amp that did not work, wont work (stays in protect mode) no matter what power cable is used and whether or not the other (working) amp is connected. Correct so far?

If th above is true then the non-working amp need to be taken to a service center.

If however the non-working amp does work please detail when it does so we can determine why it is tripping.

[moralfibre]

Originally Posted by navin

when you connected them to your car one amp (running on 8 GA) worked while the amp running on 4GA did not. Correct so far?

Correct.

Now the amp that did not work, wont work (stays in protect mode) no matter what power cable is used and whether or not the other (working) amp is connected. Correct so far?

Correct again.

If th above is true then the non-working amp need to be taken to a service center.

Will do. I shall update you on the progress.

If however the non-working amp does work please detail when it does so we can determine why it is tripping.

Sure I will check this up before I head the service center way.

[Sam Kapasi]

Yup, I was confused with your earlier post. No problem with the gauge of the wires. One amplifier is probably busted.

[moralfibre]

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

Yup, I was confused with your earlier post. No problem with the gauge of the wires. One amplifier is probably busted.

Thank you Sameer . I will get this amp checked soon with Karim.

[Sam Kapasi]

Actually moral fibroid, ask him to change it. You just bought it didn't you?