[vamsi.kona]

Originally Posted by redfire

vamsi,

You are going for components at front, which is the best bet. They come as a pair of tweeters, midbass drivers and crossover circuits (all included in the pack). The line from HU/amp goes to this crossover (a small circuit box) which has two sets of out, one to midbass and one to tweeter. You dont need to buy any extra tweeters.

Even for co-axials (as name suggests they are dual cones, one serves as midbass and the outer smaller one as tweeter), you don't need any extra tweeters.

Since you are planning for amp and sub later, no need to install 6x9s. Co-axials would be ideal and they will do their purpose as rear fills. If you are more specific you can go for comps at rear also.

Thank you Jay for your explanation. Got any Idea as to Ideal Comps, HU(DVD & USB) and 4chl AMP.(you can suggest 2 or 3 options)

[redfire]

That depends purely on your budget. Components range from 5K to $$$$ . So are HU and amps.

You posted this in your first post-
"Front Components 6.5" - JBL/Hertz/Illussion (Of course will try to audition)
Rear 5.25" (co-axials/components?) - same make as above
Amp 4-ch - thinking of JBL (can't recollect the exact name)"

Above are very good and popular options in T-BHP. Popular DVD HUS are Kenwood, JVC and Pioneer. Search Product discussion and Sound OFF/Show OFF threads.

[navin]

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

Hi!
I am responding to your PM. Here, this should sort out any questions you may have.

Thank you Sam.

Grizzly, you will notice the woofer Sam has used in his example has a Xmax of 12.5mm (simple Xmax is calucalted as Air gap height-Voice coil height but since useable Xmax is only one way the result of the above is divided by 2 hence in this example it is 33-8/2).

Now to describe the effects of the 3 boxes Sam has outlined (believe me these boxes are only the simpler examples).

In all 3 cases the Transducer excursion (I believe) is a calulated excursion (not actually measured) as in the curves shown in all 3 cases he transducer is being pushed to their linear XMax limits and beyond and if one were to measure a Tranducer's behaviour in such cases the curves wold look very rough and inconsistent (take 3 different measurements and get 3 different results). LEAP is Loudspeaker Enclousure Analysis Program which is accurrate but therotical in it's results. It is excellent for understanding a tranducer's behaviour in various boxes. LEAP's sister LMS however is used to provide actual measured results. This small paper (The Art of Speaker Design) is a good read for first timers and mor help can be found here (Acoustics Forum • Index page).

Now back to the measurements (the above was just a preface to understand what the measurements stand for).

For each box type Sam has provided Freq vs SPL and Freq vs mm curves. Please note that the Freq vs SPL curves are at 2W while the Freq vs mm curves are at 300W. At 300W, thanks to the deviations in the power response and compression, the freq response curve will not be exactly that of the curve at 2W but for most purposes the 2W curve is adequate and which is why most manufactures only provide curves at 2.83V or 2V.

A car's cabin provides gain due to the various boundaries (chassis and body of the car) the car has. Hence the in car bass response is more extended.

You will notice that the sealed box's excursion response is more linear than that of the ported box. This is becuase below Fb the woofer in the ported box decouples from the box and hence can be easily over drive (see how fast the excursion respnse rises after about 32Hz in the ported box). A proted box is great for music that has no information below Fb but provides little protection to the woofer if this is not true.

The bandpass box (4th order bandpass in this case) can be considered as a narrowly tuned ported box where the bass output is huge in a small band but falls off rapidly outside this band. As with ported boxes, bandpass boxes also provide little protection below Fb but you will notice that within the band the bandpass box cna deliver about 6db more SPL than a sealed box.

Each box has it's merits and demerits. For general music I would recommend a sealed box but for modern music (hip hop, trance, house, etc..) ported boxes work fine. Band pass boxes are best suited for Disco where midbass energy is high.

I hope this helps (my posts have been known more to confuse than help).

[fifthgear]

I looking for a simple ICE install for my Santro. Have decided on Illusion 4" comps (popular in T-BHP) in the front + Any budget HU. No rear speakers, sub or amp.

Some questions.

1. Is the HU selection important. I am going in for a any budget HU with aux in, as I will be using my mp3 player exclusively and CD/DVD player functionality in the HU will not be used by me. Dont really care about the HU functinality as long as the sound quality is decent.

2. Is an amp recomended or will the front comps work fine off the HU. Which HU would be recomended for Illusion 4" comps?

3. Dont want any cutting/mods in the car. Will comps obey this constraint?

Listen to variety of music - Hindi, and English. Currently my budget is 10K (5K HU and 5K front speakers). Budget can stretch to 20K.

[greenhorn]

for 5k, a pioneer 4050/Kenwood 5039 would be the best fit.

another option would be to get a blau amp which has aux in, and forget about the HU

you will lose a lot of bass. would strongly suggest some 6x9's , just for some bass compensation. in case you're planning to use aux in, and not USB, then get the cheaper pio 2050 + some 6x9's for 3~4k

[sonirohit]

Hi,

I have the following setup in my Swift
HU - Pio 3050
Front - Some Shady Sony Coaxials (Don't even believe if they are Sony or not)
Rear Parcel Tray - JBL GTO 937

Now I am looking to upgrade my ICE.

Looking to add a pair of Compos in the front, move the sony coaxials in the rear door.

Right now I am not looking to drive my Compos from an AMP, planning to use the HU for this.

A couple of months down the line - I am planning a SUB (but that would be on the parcel tray - not in an enclosure because SWIFT is low on boot space) In this case will a sub be any good??? Again this would run off my HU not an AMP.

In the final step would look to add an AMP.

I don't want to be spending a fortune - so could you guide if this is the best way forward???

Any inputs for the various ingredients I should be using and their indicative prices.

[rjstyles69]

I haven't ventured into this thread for the last year or so and here I am finally once again for advice. Time for a minor upgrade ..

I am planning to change my JBL 607c compo's to something better. They still work like a charm and sounds good, but I need something more on the front stage. I mean better quality of sound for the kinda music I listen to.

So advice needed on what compo's to pick up ? Budget of 6k and can be stretched by another 500 bucks.

I listen to a lot of house and techno with a wee bit of hip hop.

[greenhorn]

are the comps amped ?
tried playing around with the crossover ?( i think it has a 3db switch)

[s0uljah]

Originally Posted by rjstyles69

I am planning to change my JBL 607c compo's to something better. They still work like a charm and sounds good

Good to know... so whats your selling price Id be interested.

Originally Posted by rjstyles69

I need something more on the front stage. I mean better quality of sound for the kinda music I listen to.

I listen to a lot of house and techno with a wee bit of hip hop.

For house/trance I thought the 607 sounded pretty decent.

Options :
Polk Momo (Grey will be closer to your budget)
Hertz (No idea of the current series)
iLLusion Electra
BullAudio

You have an EFX 4ch right, whats the model?

[nura]

Originally Posted by sonirohit

I am planning a SUB (but that would be on the parcel tray - not in an enclosure because SWIFT is low on boot space) In this case will a sub be any good??? Again this would run off my HU not an AMP.

If you want to mount the sub on the parcel tray, I guess you need to buy, an infinity baffle/ free-air sub.
Although many head-unit manufactures may have you believe otherwise, you really need an amp to get the sub to play.
That's my two-pice bit. Now it's over to the Gurus.

[sonirohit]

Originally Posted by nura

If you want to mount the sub on the parcel tray, I guess you need to buy, an infinity baffle/ free-air sub.
Although many head-unit manufactures may have you believe otherwise, you really need an amp to get the sub to play.
That's my two-pice bit. Now it's over to the Gurus.

I think my HU can power the sub because I see options for sub HPF etc in my HU's menu...but the effects could be different than expected.

Pardon my ignorance - what is a baffle/free-air sub? How is it different from a normal sub?

[rjstyles69]

Originally Posted by s0uljah

Good to know... so whats your selling price Id be interested.

Aint selling them, will be transferred to wifey's car .

Originally Posted by s0uljah

For house/trance I thought the 607 sounded pretty decent.

Options :
Polk Momo (Grey will be closer to your budget)
Hertz (No idea of the current series)
iLLusion Electra
BullAudio

You have an EFX 4ch right, whats the model?

Any idea on the pricing Anirudh ? I don't know if these exotic one's would fit my budget though.
Amp is the EFX 4200 series.

[s0uljah]

Not sure about prices, though it would be something like this :

Bullaudio 5k, Electra 6.9k, Polk Momo might be 8k in grey.

Speak to raven na, he will get you competitive rates.

[rjstyles69]

Originally Posted by s0uljah

Not sure about prices, though it would be something like this :

Bullaudio 5k, Electra 6.9k, Polk Momo might be 8k in grey.

Speak to raven na, he will get you competitive rates.

Thanks for the pricing Anirudh. Neeli Raven is always on top of the list so I will be at his shop for the upgrade.

[nura]

Originally Posted by sonirohit

I think my HU can power the sub because I see options for sub HPF etc in my HU's menu...but the effects could be different than expected.

Pardon my ignorance - what is a baffle/free-air sub? How is it different from a normal sub?

You probably mean sub LPF or low pass filter. This means your head-unit will let you cut off the higher frequencies, which the sub is not meant to play, and then send only the lower frequencies to the amplifier, which will then amplify them and send them to the sub.
An infinite (pardon the spelling error in my previous post) baffle/ free-air sub is specially made with a stronger suspension to handle more power and has better cone damping so that it can be used without enclosing it in a box.