[amit_mechengg]

Originally Posted by cranky

^^I'm not navin but I'll give it a stab anyway

It's a pretty trivial task if you know where to tap the signal from or can figure it out looking at the chip's datasheets, provided you can figure out which chip it is once you crack the shell. All you should need to do is disconnect the amplifier chip inputs and wire it to a set of output jacks.

Such skulduggery may not be needed. The Linea HU does have a low-level output and needs an adapter. The pins are available on the back of the unit.

If you have no electronics experience the adapter may be a better bet.

It's also OK to use a reducer from the high-level output if there is no load connected. At very high impedance load the amplifier distortion is usually fairly low. Amp may become unstable at such low current output though. So-called level matchers may or may not work well. It's the most fool-proof solution.

million thanks, but i thought your way too to get the adapter with RCA out.

but i dont think my headunit on the linea has the lowlevel pin outs at the rear. they seems to be high level speaker outputs.\
please refer the connection below and let me know what you think.

also i have seen an adapter that can do the work.

[cranky]

No, the aux is an input. The 'AF' is the output, three pins. Which means it's pre-fader and may not have volume control enabled at that output.

[amit_mechengg]

Originally Posted by cranky

No, the aux is an input. The 'AF' is the output, three pins. Which means it's pre-fader and may not have volume control enabled at that output.

sorry please ignore that arrow. it was in the pic which i took.

i am speaking about the block above it which shows speaker connections.
i dont think they are low level speaker connection from where i can connect the aux out connector and attach an amp to it.

i think its high level speaker out and will damage the amp if i do so.

[cranky]

The level above is high level output, and will damage the input of an amp unless you use a line converter. Basically it reduces the signal level to a safe threshold which an amp can use for input.

Trouble is that a high level output will be more distorted than a low level output. Whether you can live with that or not will be a question only you can answer.

Back to your pic, the three terminals on the left of the lowest connector - AF-R, AF ground (the funny inverted T) and AF-L should probably be the line outputs.

[amit_mechengg]

Originally Posted by cranky

The level above is high level output, and will damage the input of an amp unless you use a line converter. Basically it reduces the signal level to a safe threshold which an amp can use for input.

Trouble is that a high level output will be more distorted than a low level output. Whether you can live with that or not will be a question only you can answer.

Back to your pic, the three terminals on the left of the lowest connector - AF-R, AF ground (the funny inverted T) and AF-L should probably be the line outputs.

i am not able to live with the quality of sound from LOC. especially the bass at low frequencies.

ok again with the AF-L, AF T and AF-R you said above that its a pre faded ones and does not have volume control?

what do you mean by this? is it that if i get Aux out from this i wont be able to control its volume from HU?

[cranky]

Maybe, I'm not sure.

The volume control and fader control usually appear in the signal chain in that exact order. Since there is only one set of outputs it may have been tapped before or after the volume control (if those terminals are indeed the correct ones, mine is just a guess). Not many ways to find out without some test equipment or some ingenuity.

[Venom]

Originally Posted by Venom

Hi! Ok, before someone kills me for asking a question that might have already been answered, I really need some help because I just can't find the answer.

I'm getting a new Honda City S MT which comes with an in built music system. I'm moving on from a Swift in which I have :

HU : Pioneer P1Y
Amps : JBL 2 Channel + Sony 4 Channel
Speakers : Rear Pioneer Coaxials, JBL Components, Pioneer Speakers on the Rear Doors.
Sub : Pioneer 800 Watt

Now, I'm used to my system and would love to move it on to the City. I'd like to know
1). If there is any way I can rig the steering controls to the system
2). Do I need to change anything in the dash to fit the P1Y (Single Din)
3). Could anyone suggest some other system which would fit the Dash without any modifications or additional expenses and to which I can rig the steering controls. I do have a budget that caps at Rs. 12k for the new HU.

Again, my apologies if all this has already been asked. I promise, I have tried searching.

I experienced this when I came on to the forum a couple of years back for suggestions on ICE installation for my Swift, and now I face it again - an exponential hike in budget!

After much deliberation I've decided I couldn't care less for the steering controls and their compatibility with the Head Unit I will install. I'm considering the JVC KW-XR816 and if budget permits, then JVC KW-AVX746 or Pioneer AVH-P3350BT.

I will try and audition all three and decide. For now, here's another question - do I need to change the dash panel of my ANHC to fit these players? Can I just fit them without any changes, after removing the factory fit Honda HU?

Also, what do installers charge for the installation these days, specifically in Bangalore. Just so that I don't go get my pants ripped off!

[kaushik_s]

Originally Posted by kaushik_s

Hi All,
I've recently got Diamond Audio D1 component speakers for my car. When I just love the thump of the mid-bass (it's really good), it's the tweeters that is giving me trouble. They are just too bright for my taste and I feel as if my ears are bleeding, .......... If so then what next considering I'm not very interested in too bright sounding speakers?
Or is there a remote possibility that it's the amp?
Regards,

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Your best bet is to pad the XO (Navin-ji, help required).

For the time being, tape a couple of layers of pieces of curtain cloth over the tweeters - might help reduce the intensity.

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Distance is not the issue (it will be usually ~4-5' average in any car), the angle at which it is mounted is. Can't visualize since you haven't posted a pic. W..... Check if it is so, otherwise you can angle it to the correct angle. Double check if the stereo image is natural.

Originally Posted by navin

Tweeter response can fall considerably off axis. It is best to first experiment with the angle of the tweeter before making more significant modifications (physical or electrical).

.....
1. Switch tweeter to -2db.
2. try tweeer by reversing tweeter wires. I think the tweeter should be out of phase give that is is being rolled of at -12db/oct.

Hi All, here is a recent update. Satya asked me to get the car to his place as he wanted to try out something to reduce the shrillness of the tweeters. What he did was as follows,
1. Reversed the phase of the wiring from the amplifier to the speakers. One thing I've noticed that bass response indeed got better. But tweeters were still sounding shrill.
2. Switched the tweeters to -2dB at the crossover. Still not much change in shrillness.
3. Last attempt was to make the tweeter positioning off-axis.
But even after all these I can still feel the harsh/shrillness from the highs. I'm going to try the method as mentioned by derAlte/Naveen to cover the tweeters with cloth. Hope this works but I really have my doubts. They sound as if like some high-decibel horns at times. May be I can try putting them next to the mid-range and see if there is any difference as last measure.
After listening to these tweeters firing shrill sound, all I can conclude that these are really bad piece of tweeters and I would probably never try Diamond Audio again in my life. Did a comparison test with same soundtrack with my setup in my Baleno and they sound really really different.

BTW, just want to know, if I decide to change these speakers to a new pair, what should be the best option considering I'm bit too sensitive to shrill tweeters? Alpine Type-R? JL Audio? Focal? Illusion? Just want to know so that I won't again end up with something like these DS1's.

[navin]

Originally Posted by kaushik_s

1. Reversed the phase of the wiring from the amplifier to the speakers. One thing I've noticed that bass response indeed got better. But tweeters were still sounding shrill.
2. Switched the tweeters to -2dB at the crossover. Still not much change in shrillness.
3. Last attempt was to make the tweeter positioning off-axis.
But even after all these I can still feel the harsh/shrillness from the highs.

BTW, just want to know, if I decide to change these speakers to a new pair, what should be the best option considering I'm bit too sensitive to shrill tweeters? Alpine Type-R? JL Audio? Focal? Illusion? Just want to know so that I won't again end up with something like these DS1's.

1. Did you reverse the phase of the tweeter (that means connect the tweeter wire in reverse phase so the red wire of the tweeter will go to the -ve terminal in the XO and the black wire will go to teh +ve terminal)?

2. Can you take the cover of the XO off and post a clear picture (with component values) of the XO? Maybe we can change the tweeter padding.

Lastly if you do take a soldering iron to any audio component be warned that all warranties will be void. You should do these things only if you are confident of not damaging any component or are willing to accept the consequences of such damage.

[kaushik_s]

Originally Posted by navin

1. Did you reverse the phase of the tweeter (that means connect the tweeter wire in reverse phase so the red wire of the tweeter will go to the -ve terminal in the XO and the black wire will go to teh +ve terminal)?

Nope, what was done that we've reversed the output cable from the amplifier. I'll change the tweeter cables myself today and see what happens.

2. Can you take the cover of the XO off and post a clear picture (with component values) of the XO? Maybe we can change the tweeter padding.

I'll open the door cover and click a few pics of XO and will post it.

Lastly if you do take a soldering iron to any audio component be warned that all warranties will be void. You should do these things only if you are confident of not damaging any component or are willing to accept the consequences of such damage.

Not so confident about soldering stuff. But I can surely get that done from a friend who is really good at it.

[theexperthand]

I am in market for a HU. My main consideration is SQ and the HU should have TA.

The three options I am currently looking are:

1. Alpine CDA 117 - (above my budget, but have asked my friend to pick it up from US. I have 2 days to revise my decision)

2. Alpine CDA 105 + Imprint kit

3. Kenwood Excelon KDC-X794.

Please help me to choose the best one from SQ angle. Should I go for the 117 or should I cancel it and look for other options?

Is it really worth stretching my budget for 117?

Please help :|

(PS: even if I get 117, I may go for Imprint kit when I can afford it)

[vampire]

Gurus

Could you tell me as to where I could source a SX4 HU panel from so that i can fit a new HU and discard the old one.
AFAIK if i take PAC SWI then i can program the new HU to the steering mounted controls right?

Thanks

[salbin]

I was searching for a compact sub-woofer for my Beat LT having stock HU with JBL GT5-S204 in front and Polk db461 in the rear.

The biggest concern for me is that I don't want to compromise much on the boot space, because Beat is having one of the smallest boot among the hatchbacks.
Also I don't want to wake-up the neighborhood with my ICE setup.. A moderate setup will do for me. I generally listen to music at low or moderate volume levels.
So initially I was looking for the under-seat amplified subs, mostly 8" sub, considering the following advantages:
- Will get hidden inside the driver seat - so boot space not consumed.
- No need to remove the HU - can use speaker level input.
- Wiring is simple.
Searched few shops and saw some 8" amplified under-seat subs at price range 8K to 13K!
- Steel Mate (Caska brand)
- ARC Audio
- Sansui (distributed by Nakamichi dealer)
- etc (I forgot the name of the other one.. not a branded one)
Could not locate similar ones from Kenwood KSC SW1/ Pioneer TS WX210A / Pioneer KSC SW01 / Blaupunkt THb 200A / JVC CS BB2 etc in any of the car accessory shops in Bangalore.
Also did not consider amp & sub separately considering the separate amp wiring and sub enclosure will be bulky.
In between happened to see Infinity Basslink series 10" sub with amp - which does not go under-seat, but considerably compact and can be placed in the boot without compromising lot of space. After seeing this, I am more inclined to Basslink than the under-seat ones. Searched net and found most of the reviews are positive for Infinity Basslink.

Now can any one indicate the current market price for Infinity Basslink in India?
One shop was quoting 15K including wiring, where as the other shop quoted 23K!. Is 15K reasonable for this?
What are the other amplified sub options I can consider keeping my above said requirements and preferably within the same price range?

[donarun]

Originally Posted by theexperthand

The three options I am currently looking are:

1. Alpine CDA 117 - (above my budget, but have asked my friend to pick it up from US. I have 2 days to revise my decision)

2. Alpine CDA 105 + Imprint kit

3. Kenwood Excelon KDC-X794.

Please help me to choose the best one from SQ angle. Should I go for the 117 or should I cancel it and look for other options?

Is it really worth stretching my budget for 117?

The Alpine CDA-117 is great SQ HU, I've been using it for a month now. My setup details, http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/sound-...ld-things.html. IMO, the only prob with this HU is the banking feature which is done every time when every time you try to play of a usb pendrive. Banking can take anything from 20secs to a minute depending on the size of the bank. But if you an ipod user this HU would be a breeze to use. After hearing my setup, good friend and fellow member Pr_007 did the unthinkable, sold his Eclipse 7200mkII and got himself the 117 + Imprint kit.

The Kenwood x794 is again a great HU. I have heard the previous version (x693) of this HU in few setups and was impressed with the SQ. Out of the box this HU has better tuning options than the 117, but with the imprint module the 117 has the edge.

[theexperthand]

Originally Posted by donarun

The Alpine CDA-117 is great SQ HU, I've been using it for a month now. My setup details, http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/sound-...ld-things.html.

I have been following your thread from the day 1
Thank you for the advise.

I have brought the 117 now, and will add the imprint kit later.