[keeru]

Originally Posted by lamborghini

I believe it's for the DRL, which the Indian version doesn't come with. Wonder if one can plug and play with that though, with the help of VCDS.

I don't think it is for DRL but is for plugging another bulb and this could be doing cornering light functionality.

[vin_b]

Ganesh, I have couple of queries about how the wiring was done for you by Lumen systems.

Firstly, can both the headlamps be removed as plug n play ? I was able to remove driver side headlamp without any issue but the co driver side, I noticed one of the connection was still held by insulation tape.

Secondly, I inquired about having heat sink type of connection which you have put but was told that this type of connection can have chances of water seeping into the wire joints and can lead to rusting.

What are your comments on this ?

[keeru]

Originally Posted by vin_b

Secondly, I inquired about having heat sink type of connection which you have put but was told that this type of connection can have chances of water seeping into the wire joints and can lead to rusting.

Vinod told the same thing to me also and suggested me to use insulator tape instead. Reason is he don't have heat shrink cables with him.

[vin_b]

Originally Posted by keeru

Vinod told the same thing to me also and suggested me to use insulator tape instead. Reason is he don't have heat shrink cables with him.

Vinod actually said that he can get the heat sink way done, if I can source it for him. But I would like to know whether there are chances of water seeping in.

[graaja]

Originally Posted by vin_b

Ganesh, I have couple of queries about how the wiring was done for you by Lumen systems.

Firstly, can both the headlamps be removed as plug n play ? I was able to remove driver side headlamp without any issue but the co driver side, I noticed one of the connection was still held by insulation tape.

Is your's a pre facelift car? If it is pre-facelift with the single barrel headlight, then I am not sure about the wiring details. But if no wires from the original harness were cut or spliced, then it should be plug and play. If it is post facelift, then if you use the mating connector that I have shown in my wire cleanup post, then it will be plug and play. If original wiring harness has been spliced, then it is not plug and play.

Originally Posted by vin_b

Secondly, I inquired about having heat sink type of connection which you have put but was told that this type of connection can have chances of water seeping into the wire joints and can lead to rusting.

What are your comments on this ?

Originally Posted by vin_b

Vinod actually said that he can get the heat sink way done, if I can source it for him. But I would like to know whether there are chances of water seeping in.

Originally Posted by keeru

Vinod told the same thing to me also and suggested me to use insulator tape instead. Reason is he don't have heat shrink cables with him.

This depends on the right type of heat shrink tube being used. Heat shrink tubes have a 50% shrink ratio on heating. So, if you take a 3mm heat shrink tube, it will shrink to 1.5mm. If you use a 1sq.mm cable and use a 3mm heat shrink tube, it will be tight fit and there will be no water ingress. However, if you use a 6mm heat shrink tube on a 1 sq.mm wire, then the tube will not fit tightly on the wire and will have chances of water or moisture going in.

A properly selected heat shrink tube is the best in terms of insulation, heat resistance and moisture resistance compared to normal insulation tape that will soften and peel off due to the high temperatures inside the engine bay. In my car, the insulation tape had already started to peel off in just under a month.

More than moisture proof, I will be worried about exposed wires lying inside the engine bay which can lead to short circuits and fire hazards. I am not saying this to scare you guys, but this is very important.

So, get the heat shrink tubes and insist to use the 3mm heat shrink tube for 1sq.mm wire joints for a proper seal.

[GTO]

Thanks to graaja for adding the following updates to the opening posts! Thread taken back live.

1. Updated post #1 with "Be prepared for issues post installation"
2. Updated post #4 with projector alignment and post alignment video
3. Updated post #5 with the following.
a. Updated the "About the Installer" section clearly listing the good and bad
b. Added "Brand name and source of projectors" section
c. Added link to the "Operation Wiring Cleanup" post

[Rahul Rao]

Has any one tried these lamps http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RHD-VW-PO...-/351635745207 for their Polo or Vento.
Twin projectors should provide an excellent illumination.

Rahul

[graaja]

Originally Posted by Rahul Rao

Has any one tried these lamps http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RHD-VW-PO...-/351635745207 for their Polo or Vento.
Twin projectors should provide an excellent illumination.

Rahul

These are the GTi replicas, which are available in India as well. These are halogen projectors. TBHPian polo_ankit has them in his car. He has changed the low beams from halogen to HID and they look really good.

I had considered these briefly, but as I wanted BiXenon's went with the retrofit.

[keeru]

Ganesh, is the cutoff still sharp? In my setup though the bulb which is positioned and tightened with the clip is fixed tight, it is slightly shaking at times so the cutoff is not sharp and the blue hue is turning to be yellowish.
But after a few kms run, it is adjusted back to normal and it repeats.
Though it isn't effecting the throw and beam pattern, but little annoying. Any suggestions?

Also, the intensity of the HID has slightly reduced and turned bit yellowish. Is it expected within a few hours run?

[graaja]

Originally Posted by keeru

Ganesh, is the cutoff still sharp? In my setup though the bulb which is positioned and tightened with the clip is fixed tight, it is slightly shaking at times so the cutoff is not sharp and the blue hue is turning to be yellowish.
But after a few kms run, it is adjusted back to normal and it repeats.
Though it isn't effecting the throw and beam pattern, but little annoying. Any suggestions?

Also, the intensity of the HID has slightly reduced and turned bit yellowish. Is it expected within a few hours run?

Keeru,

The slight shake is because of the reflector vibration. Even I have this vibration and because of this sometimes, the cutoff may not be sharp. Also remember, the cutoff can be seen to be sharp only when the car is stationery and turned towards a wall. Once you start driving, due to the movement of the car on both axis, the beams will not have the same alignment as they are when stationary. This will look as if the cut off is not sharp. This is normal.

Regarding the blue hue, on cold start, the color temperature of the lamp will be different and will stabilize after some warm-up. I don't see this in my Jetta, but it exists in the retrofit setup. Yes. I also see the color temperature becoming a bit warm after some time of run.

I think both these are due to the ballast and bulb warming up.

[keeru]

Originally Posted by graaja

The slight shake is because of the reflector vibration. Even I have this vibration and because of this sometimes, the cutoff may not be sharp.

yes Ganesh, I agree this point. The slight vibration is due to the reflector.

But my concern is not about that. Either right or left cutoff will become scattered and during that particular time, there wont be any blue hue for that particular beam. After a few kms run through bumpy roads, it settles down to normal and cut off will be sharp again.

I suspect this is due to the position of the bulb which is getting misaligned during the bumpy roads.

[graaja]

Originally Posted by keeru

But my concern is not about that. Either right or left cutoff will become scattered and during that particular time, there wont be any blue hue for that particular beam. After a few kms run through bumpy roads, it settles down to normal and cut off will be sharp again.

I suspect this is due to the position of the bulb which is getting misaligned during the bumpy roads.

When do you observe this scattering? On bumpy roads when your wheels are not at the same level and the car is unstable? Or on smooth roads?

[keeru]

Originally Posted by graaja

When do you observe this scattering? On bumpy roads when your wheels are not at the same level and the car is unstable? Or on smooth roads?

It is like, it is switching between sharp cutoff-> scattering ->sharp cutoff -> scattering and so on depending on the surface of the road I drive.
But it is not observed frequently. May be for an hour if I see sharp cutoff, the next hour it will be scattered.
Note: Scattered beam will be approximately 5-6 inches from the cutoff when the vehicle is parked 30 feet from the wall. Will post a picture soon.

[sunilsoft]

Hello gaarja,
Need your help. I have got mini d2s installed on older headlights using your method from retro rides . Your thread has been immensely helpful. However I have a hit a roadblock. Everything is working well but only problem is when the lights are off and we want to give dipper by pulling the stalk. It doesn't switch on the light. The installer says this is due to the difference of wiring between new gen double barrel headlights and old one which we have used.

Graaja if you are able to dipp your headlight then please provide info on how to get the wiring done.

Are your headlight levelling motors working. If yes from where you have purchased the same as the old headlights didn't came with motors.

Thanks in advance.

[graaja]

Originally Posted by sunilsoft

Hello gaarja,
Need your help. I have got mini d2s installed on older headlights using your method from retro rides . Your thread has been immensely helpful. However I have a hit a roadblock. Everything is working well but only problem is when the lights are off and we want to give dipper by pulling the stalk. It doesn't switch on the light. The installer says this is due to the difference of wiring between new gen double barrel headlights and old one which we have used.

Graaja if you are able to dipp your headlight then please provide info on how to get the wiring done.

Yes. I am able to flash the lights in the daytime when the lights are off. For flashing to work, both high beam and low beam signals need to be activated simultaneously. The low beam signal will turn on the light, and the high beam signal will lift the shutter. I have the auto light switch installed in my Polo which turns on both high and low beams when flashing. Not sure how the OE headlight switch treats the flashing signal. If the OE switch only turns on the high beam signal then the lights will not turn on.

In this case, there is a workaround. If you introduce a diode between the high beam and low beam signals (anode on the high beam, and cathode on the low beam), when you flash, the diode will power the low beam signal from the high beam signal and the light will come on. If you have a relay control unit that takes both low and high beam signals, then you could use a low power diode like 1N4007 to do the job. If there is no relay control, then you will need a diode that is rated for 10A or more.

Originally Posted by sunilsoft

Are your headlight levelling motors working. If yes from where you have purchased the same as the old headlights didn't came with motors.

Thanks in advance.

No. I do not have leveling motors. I am thinking of getting leveling motors from AliExpress and fitting to the lights, but no immediate plans to do so.