1) INSTALLATION of the Dashcam
There are two ways one can go about installing the dashcam in ones car:
Choice A: Using the 12V car charger provided connected to the 12V socket
Choice B: Hardwiring the Dashcam
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In
Choice A - It is pretty straightforward and easy to complete the installation as there nothing much to do.
i) Decide the position of the Dashcam and Stick the mount;
ii) Route the wiring from the dashcam mount towards the 12V socket and NOT vice-versa
*
iii) Connect the charger into the socket and you are done.
TomTom charger that I use currently
Car charger provided in the package (Note the USB port)
I
could have used this method as the car charger that I use is a TomTom one that has 2 USB ports and one 12V socket to compensate. The car charger that is provided in the package would fit into that socket in the TomTom one and even then I will have 3 USB ports to use. Since I am the solo user of the car, 2 ports are left idle anyway so there would be no load on the 12V socket.
I didn't choose this method because I wanted a cleaner install and not to clutter the central console with wires routing over/under them. Also I may forget to plug the charger in or someone may pull it off to use to charge their mobiles.
Keeping the issues in mind, I went with the
Choice B.
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Hardwiring the dashcam makes it safer and reliable in terms of performance and battery life. There would be no issues of draining/recharging as the power would be supplied 24x7 when the engine is running to record the videos. Also I would be carrying over this dashcam to my next car so the easy to unplug and carry it would be better and also warranty-proof (For next car) if going the hardwiring way.
Steps to Hardwiring the Dashcam:
-- I am putting down the points in a brief manner so that it is easy to understand and follow:
- Go to the fuse box and search using the owners manual for a fuse that is "Open/Blank" that can be used for such installation. It is better to use a empty fuse point rather than using a running power line that can go kaput in-case there is an issue in hardwiring.
- I am looking for a fuse that would supply power ONLY when ignition is ON so that the dashcam isn't ON always (Would deteriorate overall performance) and also drain my cars battery slowly. Using a 12V Fuse tester pen, I narrowed down on the fuse that I was looking for where the pen lights up upon Ignition ON. In my Swift there are about 12 fuse points that I left blank but out of them only 3 or 4 fulfil the "Ignition ON only" condition.
- Once narrowed down, prepare the hardwiring kit for connection.
- Open the A-Pillar trim
- Decide and fix the camera mount**
- Route the wiring from the dashcam mount towards the 12V socket and NOT vice-versa*
- Connect the hardwiring kit and also secure the Earthing point
- Connect the Dashcam and plug-in the Micro USB port into the dashcam to test for Powering ON
- If all OK, secure the extra wiring underneath the dashboard using Zip ties
- Refit the A-pillar trim
- Clean up the car after all the mess and HAPPY RECORDING
NOTE: * If the wiring is routed from the fuse box towards the dashcam on top, the extra wiring would be a mess and also be difficult to hide it into the headliner trim above so it is best going from top to bottom i.e. From dashcam to fuse box so all extra wiring is secured and hidden neatly underneath the dashboard.
**Deciding on position of DASHCAM MOUNT
-- When one is in confusion and not able to decide on getting the right position for the mount, please do NOT use the sticker pads provided in the package as they would render useless if once stuck to the windshield. To remove that sticker pad a thin knife would be required. So to try out different positions before finalising it is better to use
Cellophane tape which can be stuck to the mount and windshield temporarily. This is a better method and easier on mount too. Record couple of videos and keep checking it during playback. After deciding, using a marker make small markings and then use the sticker pads provided to mount the dashcam.
Preparing the Hardwiring Kit:
The kit has two ends:
1) A Micro USB port that connects to the dashcam
2) A Red+black wire to be connected to the power source and earth
Clear labelling on kit which is power source and which is Earth, Neat!
Earth connection crimped
Power connection crimped
Wiring connected and heat shrink'ed to the hardwiring kit
Hardwiring Kit - Labelled what is what!
To put it in simple terms, first using a wire stripper, strip some insulation off to get a larger and cleaner source of wiring to be connected. I have used a small extra wire (Thicker) to connect the hardwiring kit and fuse tap cable.
For the Power Connection: Strip some insulation off the red wire and fix it tightly into the butt connector of the fuse tap cable. After getting a tight fit inside the connector, using a crimping tool, crimp the butt of the fuse tap cable to secure the connection we'd just made. Slide in a piece of heat shrinking tube prior to crimping. Using a hot air blower, shrink the tubing over the connection to be safe and clean.
For the Earth connection: Strip some insulation off the black wire and fix it tightly into the ring terminal that I using from the set of terminals that I have. This ring terminal will then be plugged into the car metal body point to act as Earth in the whole connection. Since I have already hard-wired my Auto-dimming IRVM previously, I will be using the same earthing point in this install too.
Enough of theory, lets get the installation pictures talk the rest story: A-Pillar trim removal - remove the beading and pull out the trim using the panel removing tools
Fuse to be tapped from the fuse box:
Checked and confirmed on the fuse using the 12V fuse tester pen
Way to route the hardwiring line - Through the dashboard
Wiring kept ready to be routed through A-pillar
Routed through A-Pillar and secured using wire holder clips
A close-up of the wire holder clips
5A fuse in the fuse tap cable (Fuse rating on the converter box is 1.5A so went double of that rating hence using a 5A one)
Fuse tap cable connected in the chosen fuse (Note the first fuse tap present that is for the Auto-dimming IRVM)
Earth connected to the same point that I used for the Auto-dimming IRVM
Mount fixed on the windshield after a lot of trial
[b]Test shot after hardwiring[ - All Good!!/B]
Driver's View
View from outside
Closeup shot of the dashcam from outside 