[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by drsingh

I've used this connector rail solution to join wires around the house that need extension....

Is there a better way to accomplish the same? Or a more efficient way?

I've been using similar connectors for as long as I can remember. They are not very perfect, though, as the screws can loosen, causing sparking and a fire risk.

I suspect that the clamp-type connector block shown by paragsachania is superior, and easier to use.

There is yet another solution, and I believe this is the "industrial" pro solution to joining wires. I have seen pictures, but haven't used it. Somebody here will recognise my description and tell us the name (please!). Imagine the top from a toothpaste tube, but about three or four times as long: after twisting the wires together, this "tube-top" thingy is screwed over the joined wires. This makes a secure and safe insulated connection.

EDIT: like this example on Amazon.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

I've been using similar connectors for as long as I can remember. They are not very perfect, though, as the screws can loosen, causing sparking and a fire risk.

I suspect that the clamp-type connector block shown by paragsachania is superior, and easier to use.

There is yet another solution, and I believe this is the "industrial" pro solution to joining wires. I have seen pictures, but haven't used it. Somebody here will recognise my description and tell us the name (please!). Imagine the top from a toothpaste tube, but about three or four times as long: after twisting the wires together, this "tube-top" thingy is screwed over the joined wires. This makes a secure and safe insulated connection.

You mean these stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Wire-C..._306731011_1_5

[drsingh]

Thank you all for your quick responses. A lot of different ideas for different applications.

I've decided to order a crimp type connector copper product and seal it with M-Seal for a permanent joint in humid conditions.I already own a crimp tool.

It is also the most cost effective and versatile solution for repairing/joining a single wire or multiple wires.

https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07RBQ11B7/...ing=UTF8&psc=1

There is another product that combines the screw type caps and the crimp type connector.

https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00O6LKYSW/...ing=UTF8&psc=1

[srini1785]

Originally Posted by drsingh

I've used this connector rail solution to join wires around the house that need extension. I've also used it to join damaged/cut wires.

Is there a better way to accomplish the same? Or a more efficient way?
.

Originally Posted by drsingh

I've decided to order a crimp type connector copper product and seal it with M-Seal for a permanent joint in humid conditions. I already own a crimp tool.

To join two wires all you need is a soldering iron , solder and flux. Once joined, just use the same soldering iron to close the soldered part using a heat shrink sleeve.



The connector rail is used only when its enclosed in a cabinet. The screws are still live the sleeves on the other hand are insulators so no chance of grounding or electrocution.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

You mean these stuff?

https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Wire-C..._306731011_1_5

Yes!

Originally Posted by drsingh

I've decided to order a crimp type connector copper product and seal it with M-Seal ...

I wouldn't use M-Seal.

Pedantic, probably, but if something is not sold as an electrical insulator, I would rather not use it as one.

Self-Amalgamating Rubber Tape is good as a sealing outer layer. 3m actually quote safe voltages too. You take a piece off the roll, stretch it to about 1.5 times its length, and wrap with it still stretched. It bonds to itself, becoming one layer of rubber.

[Jaguar]

Originally Posted by srini1785

To join two wires all you need is a soldering iron , solder and flux. Once joined, just use the same soldering iron to close the soldered part using a heat shrink sleeve.

The general preference is crimping. Solder is preferred in electronics where the current is low. It is nicely summarised in this article Should you crimp or solder

Crimp where you can, solder where you have to. Though soldering a wire or connection on a vehicle may make you feel like you are doing a better job, in practice it can cause more issues than it may avoid. To crimp or solder will be a personal decision based on experience, tools and preferences, but in general crimping should be the go-to option.

[honeybee]

Any idea if household electrical wires should be crimped or soldered or ... just twined together with insulation tape?

Need to carry out some work that will need extension of the wires from the electrical point to another four or five feet.

[GutsyGibbon]

Originally Posted by honeybee

Any idea if household electrical wires should be crimped or soldered or ... just twined together with insulation tape?

Need to carry out some work that will need extension of the wires from the electrical point to another four or five feet.

What is more important is how many amps you will draw, or what you will connect. When I connect woodworking tools that draw 15A, I have an extension cord with a 15A breaker.

I would never do it, but I guess you would be fine if you crimped an extension cord for a small LED light. But for anything else, I would use an extension cord that has a breaker/fuse switch. I would never twine together wires with insulation tape, and run any tool over that connection.

[honeybee]

I may have not expressed this clearly, I need to shift a bulb around four to five feet away from its present location.

So I shall have to extend the existing wiring from the point where the bulb is now, to the point where the bulb will be.

[RMN]

Hello everyone,

I've wanted to remove the front wheel of my ZX10 at home and realized it requires a 22mm Hex Bit Socket. What I dint expect was this to be found no where in Cochin! All the shops were surprised at hearing a 22mm hex bit or Allen key. Just wanted to check if this is available easily elsewhere and also if its available online. I couldn't find any online stores that has this.

For ref:

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...3657081&sr=8-4

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by honeybee

I may have not expressed this clearly, I need to shift a bulb around four to five feet away from its present location.

So I shall have to extend the existing wiring from the point where the bulb is now, to the point where the bulb will be.

Yes you can. No worries. Just ensure that the joint of two wires is proper and covered with insulation tape.

[500ContyCruiser]

Originally Posted by RMN

Hello everyone,

I've wanted to remove the front wheel of my ZX10 at home and realized it requires a 22mm Hex Bit Socket. What I dint expect was this to be found no where in Cochin! All the shops were surprised at hearing a 22mm hex bit or Allen key. Just wanted to check if this is available easily elsewhere and also if its available online. I couldn't find any online stores that has this.

For ref:

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...3657081&sr=8-4

I recently picked wrench and socket from this shop in Coimbatore.

https://www.liontoolsmart.com

You can buy individual sockets there.

[ntomer]

DIY bug hit me recently and I have collected some tools - primarily from Stanley and Taparia.

I want to wet my feet by servicing my 100K KMs run TUV300 - any DIYer in Noida-Indirapuram area looking forward to spending a Sunday servicing cars? Treat afterwards on me.

Nitin

[mvadg]

Originally Posted by Jaguar

The general preference is crimping. Solder is preferred in electronics where the current is low. It is nicely summarised in this article Should you crimp or solder

A related question: are spade connectors meant to be disconnected and reconnected? My geyser (Vguard brand) has these and there seems to be a loose connection after I had the geyser descaled and the technician removed all the wiring to get to the water tank. Picture of the type of connector used:

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by mvadg

A related question: are spade connectors meant to be disconnected and reconnected? My geyser (Vguard brand) has these and there seems to be a loose connection after I had the geyser descaled and the technician removed all the wiring to get to the water tank. Picture of the type of connector used:

They will be delicate by nature. If you try to adjust them so that they fit tight, you may end up breaking them too.

In general, these connectors can be safely removed, especially when you want to replace or remove the coil or thermostat. I have done it quite a few times to address the silt formation due to hard water in a locality I stayed earlier where there was no softener.