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See this is the point. Did it help that Tokina 11-16 is an f 2.8? If not, then I guess I would buy Canon 10-22 and Prime to solve my needs.

There are other reasons to pick up the tokina, one is the build quality and second is that it is sharper than the canon at apertures the canon is normally wide open at.

What is the difference between DSLR camera and Prosumer camera H3 of from Sony ? Does any other manufaturer give 3 years warranty on the same like Sony ?

When I was looking for a wide angle I considered the Tokina 11-16 and Canon 10-22. The Tokina offered me a f/2.8 and hence stopped down at f/4 I expected it to outperfrom the Canon at f/3.5-4.5. However on Canon bodies (tested only with 40D and 60D) the Canon focusses faster. For the friends and family indoor shots I take the focus speed was more important than the 1 stop difference. Also out of the box the Canon has nicer colour.

If you are shooting landscpaes and architecture and processing the photos (read as RAW) on your PC the Tokina might make more sense.

In the end you need to consider YOUR application. What's good for the goose is not nesscarily good for the gander.

Primarily Sensor size. Photography is the ability to control light. Since we cant add light in a camera it makes sense to capture as much as possible and then remove what we dont need (using Aperture, Shutter speed, filters, etc..).

A bigger lens (with as few elements as possible) and a bigger sensor allows you to capture much more light than a smaller sensor with a super zoom that has many elements.

I found the 10-24 tack sharp at the center even when wide open. Maybe because mine is a sharp copy.
11-16 is severly limiting. 10-24 game me a nice range. But I admit, perhaps 11-16 would have had better resale. I am still looking for buyers for my 10-24. Canon 10-22 has even better resale, and people have sold that lens for higher amount that they bought it for because of rising prices.

Dear Friends,
I have a Nikon D90 with 18-105 VR (Kit lens) and i've been using it for a little more than a year now.
I'm still a learner but after having used the above combo, i now find that i need the following: (Since cash is limited, they are in the descending order :D)

• kit lens - as a general purpose one (the one i already have, shall retain it)
• a portrait lens - 35mm f/1.8G for DX or the new 50mm f/1.8G (for better bokeh effect)
• a good UWA - 10-24 for DX again - for landscapes.
• probably the 70-300 - for some occasional birding/animals

But, i plan to buy a portrait lens soon. And that is where the confusion starts.
Personally, i think that 35mm would mean that i would be too close to the subject. I don't want to be too close to people when shooting. So, wouldn't buying 50mm be better? But since this is built for FX cameras, it would mean effectively ~80mm on D90.
Could you all please help me with this confusion? What would you experts suggest for me? Also, any other feedback on the list would be helpful. I wouldn't want to spend too much :D
Thank you very much for your help!
Cheers,
Deepak

:pThere really isn't anything to disagree about different lenses having different strengths and weaknesses. Colour is a highly subjective element :)

The Canon focuses faster, yes, but is the marginal difference in focus speed really all that important in a UWA considering the deep DoF? I use a 7D and have never found focus speed to be an issue, even when using the nifty fifty.

I checked out the Sigma 10-20 f3.5, the Canon 10-22 and the Tokina 11-16 and found the Tokina best suited to MY needs. The fact that it is nearly 10k cheaper didn't hurt either :p

D90 has inbuilt motor for auto focusing non AF-S lens. So you can buy the 50mm AF lens for 5K+ instead of expensive 1.8G lens.

here is a online link
AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D

also check out Nikon 85MM 1.8 D lens. it can produce better bokeh than a 50mm on a DX body. good for portraits
Amazon.com: Nikon 85mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR Cameras: Camera & Photo

PS: best for portrait would be 135 F/2 with Dofocus Control but costs 60K INR :)

Don't worry, they don't have the hammer.:)

Here is a bad photo of all my photography gear. Why bad photo? If all my cameras are in the frame, what do it shoot it with? My mobile of course.



But here is a closeup shot of my lenses. If you click on the image, you can get the full size version. There you can see that except for 2 lenses, all are pretty fast lenses. And I have never paid more than $800 for any of my lenses. That's the advantage of Olympus, Lens!

Since I am carrying my tripod for the first time , I wanted to know ,do we have to carry the tripod in cabin baggage or check-in baggage ?

Get it checked in. I got mine that way. No one cares for a tripod if they were looking for things to steal from your bag.

For convenience carry it in checked baggage. It's not a prohibited item but MAY attract a thorough check.

Normally people use 2x the focal length (compared to the normal" for portraits. Hence as the 35mm is approximately equivalent to the normal lense for DX format, an 80mm is what would be ideal for portraits.

For portraits, you use a fast lense, preferably wide open, so that every item outside the portrait is out of focus (OOF). A 1.8 or faster would give you lovely OOF, highlighting only the portrait. At this level you should do a net search and home down on lenses which have a good "bokeh" so that the OOF areas are pleasant and not harsh.

Portrait Lenses
What's the Best Portrait Lens?
Six of the best portrait lenses - British Journal of Photography

Which is a good batch mode watermarking capability for GIMP?
Any suggestions?