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Listen Mr Shaju, you need to chill big time.

What you learned from thread I know very well.

How you read and interpret message also clears my doubt about your intelligence level. I NEVER said that I have read this thread entirely nor did I say that thats the only information I got. Thats what YOU interpreted.

My advise is that instead of trying to answer every question on the thread spend some time on your camera. That is if you are serious about photography.

I said before, I know what I am talking about. It seems like you came across the bulb mode for first time from your friends. I know you have lot of time to spend on the thread, please go ahead with counter accusations.

Last year I came across a special need where I had to capture and compare the intensity of new fog lights. I had to go to manual mode for that.

Check this: https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-v...ml#post2033183

So all the asto photographers should throw there D90's?, since there exposures start at 15-30mins and go in hours.


^^ Correct


Its more about battery refresh times, life flash recycle times (4xAA vs 4xAA+external battery pack).

Moreover do you really need 8fps?, I ahve done motorsport, weddings, landscapes, street and never needed more than 3fps.


On the contrary, photography is learnt by hit and trail, spending 3yrs with a camera vs 3yrs photography degree, degree students still spend another 3yrs with camera working for free to LEARN via HIT AND TRIAL.

And AFAIK manual doesn't teach photography, none of the manuals i have touched even explained Rule of thirds let alone how to break it.


I do use multi quote but if i made a post and want to reply to something else (lets say after 5mins), I have no choice left but to make another post. Or is there a way to edit posts, not yet approved ?

My answers in bold. If you want to continue quoting for no reason, this is my last post on this topic. :thumbs up


Raj, I never said I needed 8fps as I have never used burst mode till date, even while shooting moving birds. Battery pack was mentioned on the extra grip requirement, not for the other features. I think our CH (continuous high) gives 5 fps, thats more than enough for special situations.

Classic example of what I am saying is by two examples;-

1. You did not know how much time the shutter can remain open so you will never use it for that purpose.

2. Secondly, my dear friend Shaju says that we can not control shutter in BULB mode by ML-3. I can quote the manual for reference. But let me tell you I learned from manual how to do it and D-90 does it! I have done several number of times.

I say again, I learn about my equipment from manuals INITIALLY and then explore the POSSIBILITIES thereafter. One must know the full potential of the equipment by knowing it. Half cooked knowledge is dangerous. This is all what I have to say.

Thanks for that. I hate war of words. I am sure you are as competent as you think.

I am quoting you here to tell you that it can be done. ML-3 can be used to hold the shutter open for upto 30mins/until pressed again. Manual says so and tells the procedure. I have done it several times.

If you need help do let me know.

This thought has crossed my mind plenty of times. So my guesses are (assuming this is an ethical system deployed by Nikon)

- The batteries(body and grip) run in parallel circuit supporting 8 fps in D300. If using without a grip, the single battery may be unable to support 8 'number' of shots, i.e. it needs a refresh after storing 6.5 of them. The grip comes for rescue in that case. So it is less about the speed (6.5 v/s 8 fps) and more about the battery juice for 1 sec.

- (Bad guess) The memory controller which writes the data to the CF card may operate fast on a slightly higher voltage thus faster fps.

But the guess made by you does make sense as well, remember Nikon is market leader in gimmicks.
My point is how come the Pentax K5 and Canon 7D are able to achieve similar fps without a battery grip and similar battery profile as D300 if this is a matter of juice.

EDIT: The other day I went I checked the MB-D10 and while trying the same I backed out the idea of buying. I was unable to justify the reason of spending 15k (grip + battery). fps gain did not felt so significant, and I can achieve same backup if I purchase an extra battery for 2k INR. Note that the maximum physical length lens I have is the 70-300 VR, the lens is light and does not poise any handling issue since D300 is itself big and bulky.

I will have to agree with Bull here.

From page 85 of D90 manual :
1. Set camera in remote immediate release or quick release mode
2. Press button on remote once to open shutter
3. Camera will take a 30 minutes exposure, or an exposure till the remote button is pressed again. So max exposure with wireless remote is 30 minutes.

Shaju, it has worked like this in most nikon cameras. I cannot fathom a reason for Nikon to change this just for D90. I think you had a defective remote, or defective camera.

However, if you use a wired remote, even on D90, you can take an exposure longer than 30 minutes. Infact as long as your battery lasts.

You may need a grip on a D700 if you are using big profile lenses like 200-400 VR , 300mm f/2.8 VR etc.
With a 70-200 f/2.8 VR-II a grip is not required given the size of D700.

Oh my dearest friend, I have only one simple request to you, please read the post before quoting with a reply. Did you read my post as ML-3 or ML-L3 ? Please read again, you are talking about two different remotes.

I see Tanveer's post too, I am not sure if ML-L3 ( 500 bucks) can do that, if it can, may be I had a faulty remote. But again, ML-L3 has a rubbery cheap button which has no hold option. Are you guys sure about it ?

I got my remote for Rs 400/- original Nikon. Its ML-L3.

You dont have to hold the button. You have to press once to open shutter and another time to close it. It just replicates the action of camera button. Simple enough. I stand corrected its ML-L3and ML-3 both.

I will write a step by step procedure at night. You may have missed few things.

BTW the manual says ML-L3 remote and quotes some two response modes. Quick Response and Delayed mode. I think they have messed it up because ML-L3 has only one press button. Nevertheless it does the job as I said before.

Shaju, none of the WIRELESS remotes I have owned have a "hold" button. Not in Canon, and not in Nikon.
When you wirelessly trigger the camera using the IR port, one click of the button will open shutter, and another click will close it.
I suspect, you are holding the button too long. So the camera may be getting "two button presses" instead of one.

Delayed release is not a function of the remote(like in Canon world). The secondary dial has the delayed or instant release functions.

There are four things you will have to check:-

1. Camera in Long Exp. NR mode - ON.
2. Shtter release mode - Wireless.
3. Mode - M
4. Shutter Speed - "Bulb" or "--"

You will hear a click of shutter open as you press it once which you can not miss. You click once more to close the shutter.

The two action of button is in BULB mode. For any other shutter speed it should open/close with one button action.

If you ensure all these things and still dont succeed, one of your thing is faulty-camera or remote.

Yes, I get your point, I might have pressed that rubber too long ( long press for long exposure ). Anyway D90 is no more with me to use that feature :) Thanks for those ebay and dealextreme links, I am seriously checking the cheap and best options.

Actually, you do not need to keep long exposure NR on. Its optional. I prefer to take my own dark frame shot, rather than let camera do the long exposure noise reduction.

Many prefer this way. The camera just takes twice the time to finish that picture. Hate it