[nilanjanray]

Originally Posted by govigov

Congratulations, Mr.Beat, basic rule to remember is the sunny 16 rule and all your f-stops in aperture and shutter speed, and then how it is linked to EV's or exposure.

IMO the sunny 16 rule is not that important nowadays with the sophisticated meters, sensors and the ability to play around with shadows and highlights selectively. Besides, one take one shot and quickly change exposure or any variable after glancing at the image.

Also, manual mode is for certain occasions - I feel focus (pun intentional) should be on taking the right shot at the right moment (say using aperture or shutter priory depending on what one is trying to do) than complicating the shot. Camera technicalities need to become instinctive with lots of practice, but best to focus on taking the shot and simplify things for yourself. Even with Aperture priority mode + auto-iso I am usually fiddling around with focus parameters, exposure compensation, aperture and metering when shooting wildlife. Why add more variables - especially when shooting dynamic subjects? Though manual mode is a great way to understand and internalize the 3 variables - aperture, shutter speed and iso. And depth of field implications of aperture for a particular lens.

Just my opinion as a nature and wildlife shooter. Depending on what one shoots and one's opinion all my points can be negated

[PatienceWins]

I got Lowepro Adventura 170 from Amazon for Rs.1300. It was a very good deal as it was selling everywhere else for around Rs.1900. I like the bag for its compactness and sturdiness. It can hold a camera with lens mounted and two extra lenses with a tight fit.

[vaisakhr]

Originally Posted by PatienceWins

I got Lowepro Adventura 170 from Amazon for Rs.1300. It was a very good deal as it was selling everywhere else for around Rs.1900. I like the bag for its compactness and sturdiness. It can hold a camera with lens mounted and two extra lenses with a tight fit.

I have this bag. My D7000 with 18-105, 50 f1.8 and 55-300 along with some filters and a wired remote fit perfectly in it. The belt is so adjustable and lengthy too (A major drawback of the OE bag). The bright orange color with lot of foam helps to keep the look as well as safety to the rig. Great buy if you want to upgrade from the nasty OE bag. Nice and compact

[Maverick5490]

Originally Posted by manim

Here is mine, bought just a couple of days ago from flipkart.

This 'Think Tank Speed Demon V2' bag has a lot of good reviews on the net, particularly from ken-rockwell: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/thin...peed-demon.htm.

Originally Posted by PatienceWins

I got Lowepro Adventura 170 from Amazon for Rs.1300. It was a very good deal as it was selling everywhere else for around Rs.1900. I like the bag for its compactness and sturdiness. It can hold a camera with lens mounted and two extra lenses with a tight fit.

@ Manim, thanks for the images, but is this bag only to carry lens? As I could not see space for a DSLR.

@ Patience Wins, Am looking for a backpack which is convinient while travelling, I have a 'Great Outdoors' bag which is similar to the adventure 170 and am now facing limitations.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by nilanjanray

IMO the sunny 16 rule is not that important nowadays with the sophisticated meters, sensors and the ability to play around with shadows and highlights selectively. Besides, one take one shot and quickly change exposure or any variable after glancing at the image.

Also, manual mode is for certain occasions - I feel focus (pun intentional) should be on taking the right shot at the right moment (say using aperture or shutter priory depending on what one is trying to do) than complicating the shot. Camera technicalities need to become instinctive with lots of practice, but best to focus on taking the shot and simplify things for yourself. Even with Aperture priority mode + auto-iso I am usually fiddling around with focus parameters, exposure compensation, aperture and metering when shooting wildlife. Why add more variables - especially when shooting dynamic subjects? Though manual mode is a great way to understand and internalize the 3 variables - aperture, shutter speed and iso. And depth of field implications of aperture for a particular lens.

Just my opinion as a nature and wildlife shooter. Depending on what one shoots and one's opinion all my points can be negated

Completely agree with you! Too many adjustments when you are shooting dynamic objects will lead to many missed opportunities! I don't understand why people have a belief that shooting in manual mode gives you the best pic.

[Samurai]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

I don't understand why people have a belief that shooting in manual mode gives you the best pic.

I guess it is a like a trick advice. To shoot in manual with some success, one needs to understand photography. By forcing someone to use manual, you are forcing them to learn photography. But if one knows photography, manual mode becomes optional.

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Completely agree with you! Too many adjustments when you are shooting dynamic objects will lead to many missed opportunities! I don't understand why people have a belief that shooting in manual mode gives you the best pic.

In many situations specially if you are shooting against odds with limited hardware such as slow lens with slow focus motor manual mode still saves the day.
Humans are still better judge when it comes to making compromises.

[manim]

Originally Posted by Maverick5490

but is this bag only to carry lens? As I could not see space for a DSLR.

This bag (SpeedDemon) is pretty large.
It can hold a DLSR+lens and two large extra lenses.
It has got a built in rain-cover.
The company 'ThinkTankPhoto' has got good reviews, seems their products are built like a tank!
It is expensive at Rs.4,640 (but at cheaper exchange-rate, since it costs 140 US$).
It can also be worn as a waist/bum-bag.

I will be carrying only one extra lens apart from the kit-lens.
I mainly bought this as a carry-all purse, to carry my wallet, car-keys, pens, papers extra on long trips.

My other lowepro bag is a small one to just carry the camera, here are some photos:

[Maverick5490]

Originally Posted by manim

This bag (SpeedDemon) is pretty large.
It can hold a DLSR+lens and two large extra lenses.
It has got a built in rain-cover.
The company 'ThinkTankPhoto' has got good reviews, seems their products are built like a tank!
It is expensive at Rs.4,640 (but at cheaper exchange-rate, since it costs 140 US$).
It can also be worn as a waist/bum-bag.
My other lowepro bag is a small one to just carry the camera, here are some photos:

I presently also use the Case Logic DCB-306 which is good for one DSLR with max 18-105 mounted. I liked the organised structure of the Lowepro AW 400 which also comes with a raincover and option for expansion when I get new lens!

[h@r$h@l]

Originally Posted by Maverick5490

Hi Guys,

Am looking for a dedicated Camera Bag for my Nikon D90 with 18-105, 90mm and 70-300 Lens. Presently have a Case logic sling case which can hold only the camera with 18-105 max.

I have narrowed down to Lowepro Flipside 400 Aw which is for approx Rs.7600 on Flipkart. Any advice if it can be procured for any cheaper from Aus,UK or US? have resources there. Or is Fort in Mumbai the best option?

Also any suggestions for alternate brands with similar functionality and price range would be great!

Hi,

Why dont you have a look at Kata series.

2 of my cousins have a D90 and one of them uses the Kata 465 & the other one has a CaseLogic SLRC-206, bought for around ₹6500/-.

http://www.caselogic.com/en-us/us/pr..._-_206_-_black

I too own a Kata. I like its sturdy feel and the customization options.And since it also has a padded and secured compartment for storing the laptop, it makes it a perfect carry away all in one for me.

Do check it out. I got mine from US 2 yrs ago and my cousin there managed to get a deal and all we paid was $35

http://www.kata-bags.in/dr-465-dl-fo...sh-ktdl-dr-465

Regards,

[govigov]

Originally Posted by nilanjanray

IMO the sunny 16 rule is not that important nowadays with the sophisticated meters, sensors and the ability to play around with shadows and highlights selectively. Besides, one take one shot and quickly change exposure or any variable after glancing at the image.

Also, manual mode is for certain occasions - I feel focus (pun intentional) should be on taking the right shot at the right moment (say using aperture or shutter priory depending on what one is trying to do) than complicating the shot. Camera technicalities need to become instinctive with lots of practice, but best to focus on taking the shot and simplify things for yourself. Even with Aperture priority mode + auto-iso I am usually fiddling around with focus parameters, exposure compensation, aperture and metering when shooting wildlife. Why add more variables - especially when shooting dynamic subjects? Though manual mode is a great way to understand and internalize the 3 variables - aperture, shutter speed and iso. And depth of field implications of aperture for a particular lens.

Just my opinion as a nature and wildlife shooter. Depending on what one shoots and one's opinion all my points can be negated

Wildlife shooters are known to use Aperture priority over manual to get best results to get the best picture at the precise moment. Manual settings can be a pain in this situation as you have rightly said.

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Completely agree with you! Too many adjustments when you are shooting dynamic objects will lead to many missed opportunities! I don't understand why people have a belief that shooting in manual mode gives you the best pic.

I had a lot of difficulty initially, but slowly I was able to understand EV and the sunny16 rule. You can look at a situation, judge (err.. guess, rather) the best values and then shoot. Once you have taken the picture you look at it and make adjustments as required. It became more of a game/challenge to get the exposure correct.

If you decide to go with off-camera flash, you have no choice but to turn to manual mode.

[Maverick5490]

Originally Posted by h@r$h@l

Hi,

Why dont you have a look at Kata series.

2 of my cousins have a D90 and one of them uses the Kata 465 & the other one has a CaseLogic SLRC-206, bought for around ₹6500/-.
Regards,

Thanks for the input Harshal, but bought the Lowepro AW 400 for 6K from a Shop at Fort. Since the price difference compared to Online was huge, snapped it up!

Thanks!

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by govigov

If you decide to go with off-camera flash, you have no choice but to turn to manual mode.

Not necessarily. On most cameras you can still keep it on auto and use the various settings to adjust, i.e. EV compensation, flash intensity. It really depends on how you want to light a topic, depth of view etc. Just experiment a bit.

For most of my photograhy I use aperture control and auto focus.
I would use full manual control on aperture, shutter and ISO perhaps under certain conditions where I would use flash or for instance when taking multiple photographs for a panorama and or collage type of photograph.

That's the only way to ensure consistent lighting conditions across multiple frames.

I've been experimenting quite a bit with HDR and I typically shoot 5 frames, autobracketing in aperture mode, fixed ISO and 0.5 steps. On my camera I can program various set modes so I can change from my regular aperture mode to HDR mode at the push of a button, very convenient.

I rarely use manual focus, unless for whatever the reason, auto focus won't work. I do use the various auto focus modes a lot though. Spot, average metering etc. etc.

Even in Aperture mode I typically always dial in -0.5EV compensation. Reason being I shoot everything in RAW to start with and I find this tends to give me a bit more room to play with once I load it into Photoshop and start editing. Easier to adjust the ever so slightly dark bits, then to adjust the ones that are to bright.

Jeroen

[nilanjanray]

Originally Posted by govigov

I had a lot of difficulty initially, but slowly I was able to understand EV and the sunny16 rule. You can look at a situation, judge (err.. guess, rather) the best values and then shoot. Once you have taken the picture you look at it and make adjustments as required. It became more of a game/challenge to get the exposure correct.

I don't have anything to say regarding flash since I am almost a 100% natural light shooter (when I do use flash, I often use flash intensity compensation). But in most situations e.g. for landscape shooting it is not difficult to take test shots and do exposure compensation, change the metering mode etc. in a few seconds. Not talking about pro landscapers here who are super meticulous about everything when taking a shot - just us normal folks who can get away with decent shots :-)

If you know what you want and how you want the end photo to look after post processing, you can do your changes accordingly right at the beginning. E.g. look at the first photo here - the negative exposure compensation and metering for the clouds and reflection was planned from the very beginning - before the boat arrived there.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shifti...ml#post3283631

Btw, I feel that 'correct' exposure depends on the eye of the beholder. I know there are different lines of thoughts regarding this. But many dramatic photos are shot with conscious exposure compensation to get a particular feel. E.g. see some of the photos on 500px - the Editor's Choices, first page etc.

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Not necessarily. On most cameras you can still keep it on auto and use the various settings to adjust, i.e. EV compensation, flash intensity. It really depends on how you want to light a topic, depth of view etc. Just experiment a bit.

For most of my photograhy I use aperture control and auto focus.
I would use full manual control on aperture, shutter and ISO perhaps under certain conditions where I would use flash or for instance when taking multiple photographs for a panorama and or collage type of photograph.

That's the only way to ensure consistent lighting conditions across multiple frames.

I rarely use manual focus, unless for whatever the reason, auto focus won't work. I do use the various auto focus modes a lot though. Spot, average metering etc. etc.

Even in Aperture mode I typically always dial in -0.5EV compensation. Reason being I shoot everything in RAW to start with and I find this tends to give me a bit more room to play with once I load it into Photoshop and start editing. Easier to adjust the ever so slightly dark bits, then to adjust the ones that are to bright.

Jeroen

Very good point about shooting panoramas/collages in manual mode - that is a situation where you don't want to leave things to the camera when shooting in Aperture Priority mode.

I guess you meant metering mode when talking about spot/centre weighted etc.

I use manual AF mode only when shooting on a tripod in the dark e.g. trying to catch the Himalayas in moonlight.

Btw, the new Nikons give a little more latitude in managing the highlights, especially at base ISO when DR is maximum. But every camera has its own quirk e.g. with my D7100 I often use +0.3EV for normal shooting.

My most important concern in the field is to get the AF right when shooting wildlife in various conditions e.g. open ground to shooting through folliage, birds vs animals etc.

I had found this useful link when researching new Nikon AF systems before going on my trip - would be useful for Nikon shooters. The set-up of the D4 is somewhat similar to the D7100 apart from a couple of things, though the D4 has a lot more processing power.
http://nps.nikonimaging.com/technica...ips/autofocus/

For Canon shooters: this link could be useful for action shooting:
http://linruphotography.blogspot.in/...tings-for.html

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by nilanjanray

I guess you meant metering mode when talking about spot/centre weighted etc.

I use manual AF mode only when shooting on a tripod in the dark e.g. trying to catch the Himalayas in moonlight.

Correct, well spotted, I meant metering mode. Good example for using manual focus. The other condition could be when trying to shoot very high gloss/shiney surfaces. Some AF system don't seem to cope too well with that.

Jeroen