The Digital Camera Thread: Questions, discussions, etc.

mobike008 · 25th October 2007, 18:11

Thanks guys, i downloaded Gimp and Image-resizer, will try both and see which one works better

mail4ajo · 25th October 2007, 18:29

As a first time SLR user (using Canon EOS 350D), I have the following questions:

1. Is there any longterm damage to the lens if a good quality UV filter is used. I have one so that I dont touch the lens and it doesnt get dusty.

2. Will using a scratchguard on the electronic display affect it. I see that after prolonged shoots, there is so much dust and oil from my face sticking on it.

3. While storing the camera, is it required to dismount the lens? Can I keep it mounted in the bag?

mobike008 · 25th October 2007, 18:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by mail4ajo

While storing the camera, is it required to dismount the lens? Can I keep it mounted in the bag?

I too have the same query. As of now, i am storing it mounted as i keep removing on an almost daily basis and removing and mounting the lens, i find it a lot of hard work

vivekiny2k · 25th October 2007, 18:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Try GIMP.
Its free.
I have used other things like Irfanview etc., but was never satisfied by the resized image quality.
With Imagemagick or GIMP I am pretty happy with the resized images quality.

I still find irfanview good enough, plus it allows batch processing which helps if you want to resize/convert/brighten.... hundreds of images at once. I hope you are aware there is a quality setting in JPEG save option, preset to 50% i believe.

Rudra Sen · 25th October 2007, 19:15

Old man’s view on buying camera/lens:

1. Take time to think as what you’re going to shoot mostly.

2. Take time to think as how often you’re going to take big prints. Big here is more than A3 size. Within A3 size, a 5 to 6 mega pixel camera is more than sufficient. You’ll see all the possible details and sharpness in that range.

3. Take time to think if you really need that RAW shooting feature. RAW in true sense is raw. You’ve to do everything to make that shot acceptable and camera is going to think that you know how to do that.

4. Through a single lens penta-prism live view (in DSLR) is always better than aim and shoot camera viewfinder. There’s no parallax error in DSLR. It’s not very important but important enough for those crucial framing and composition.

5. A compact digital camera sacrifices on critical aspects. Because it’s a compromise and too many features go into that camera. However any compact camera is more than enough for normal shooting situation. Any compact camera will give you good A4 prints. And most of the time, that’s more than enough.

6. Don’t trust a digital zoom. It’s pure rubbish.

7. In-built body image stabilizer is not as effective as in lens image stabilizer. In lens stabilizer is designed for that particular lens. It takes everything into account (weight of the lens, how many glasses and how many groups, focal length) and applies its shift function in lens barrel. To know more go here: Canon renewed Optical Image Stabilizer
Lens with image stabilizer is expensive. Not only because it has stabilizer but also it’s construction and weather sealing process. This lens is designed for serious shooting which often fetch serious money.

8. If you’re a regular heavy-duty tripod user (very rarely the case in this forum though), image stabilizer is there for no help. Canon’s image stabilizer doesn’t work when lens is mounted on tripod. Image stabilizer drains battery faster.

9. Think twice before investing on lenses. They’re expensive propositions. An ultra wide may not bring that excitement after sometime unless you’ve the energy and inclination to exploit it’s potential. Similarly, a tele-zoom will sit in your house because it’s too cumbersome to carry always.

10. If you love macro shooting then invest right amount there. There’s no substitute for a good macro lens.

11. A 50mm 1.8/1.4/1.2 will give you the same result under most normal condition.

12. Most of the time a supplied kit lens is good for general photography.

13. Take any reviews from abroad with a pinch of salt. Climatic condition is very different in our country and there’s a big difference in exposure and resulted colours.

14. Buy cameras, which have proper presence and support in this country.

15. Keep a camera for few years. Use it well to know it well. You’re only ready for upgrade then.

Rudra Sen · 25th October 2007, 19:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by mail4ajo

1. Is there any longterm damage to the lens if a good quality UV filter is used. I have one so that I dont touch the lens and it doesnt get dusty.

It's perfectly all right. It's working as protective glass.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mail4ajo

2. Will using a scratchguard on the electronic display affect it. I see that after prolonged shoots, there is so much dust and oil from my face sticking on it.

Try to get one of those they use to protect mobile phone display.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mail4ajo

3. While storing the camera, is it required to dismount the lens?

Keep them in a dry chamber/air tight box with silica gel packets. Important for you as you're in coastal area with lot of humidity.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mail4ajo

Can I keep it mounted in the bag?

Never. Bag attracts moisture.

surajs · 25th October 2007, 21:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by mail4ajo

As a first time SLR user (using Canon EOS 350D), I have the following questions:

3. While storing the camera, is it required to dismount the lens? Can I keep it mounted in the bag?

I keep it mounted in the bag always. But no problems yet.
Thanks for the tip Rudra.

mail4ajo · 25th October 2007, 23:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rudra Sen

Keep them in a dry chamber/air tight box with silica gel packets.

Wont these boxes/chambers been rather bulky to carry around. Silica gel sachets is a good idea to keep out moisture. But where can I buy them?

surajs · 25th October 2007, 23:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by mail4ajo

Wont these boxes/chambers been rather bulky to carry around. Silica gel sachets is a good idea to keep out moisture. But where can I buy them?

Keep it in boxes/chambers when you are at home or not going to use it for a long time.
Use camera bags like lowerpro or something for carrying it around (you usually get silica gel sachets with these bags)

dadu · 26th October 2007, 10:47

Can anyone explain the Image Stabilization function works (suggest ISO setting/Shutter speed etc), when a picture of the rotating fan is taken, we should see 3 fan blades clearly and not the hazzy circle.

GK Vale showed me this on the Canon A5xx (costing around 15k) but dont know how to get the same results in S5IS.

tsk1979 · 26th October 2007, 10:53

I think you misunderstand. Image stabilization will compensate for your hand shake. So when shooting a stationary subject if your hand shakes, it will compensate and picture won't be blurry. However if the subject is in motion, you need a high shutter speed.

heavy_foot · 26th October 2007, 10:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by dadu

Can anyone explain the Image Stabilization function works (suggest ISO setting/Shutter speed etc), when a picture of the rotating fan is taken, we should see 3 fan blades clearly and not the hazzy circle.

GK Vale showed me this on the Canon A5xx (costing around 15k) but dont know how to get the same results in S5IS.

In the shutter speed priority mode .set the shutter speed to the fastest..and pop up the flash..now you can take pictures of the rotating fan.

Samurai · 26th October 2007, 11:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by heavy_foot

In the shutter speed priority mode .set the shutter speed to the fastest..and pop up the flash..now you can take pictures of the rotating fan.

There is another way, switch off the fan, shoot in any mode. If the point is to see 3 blades clearly, this method is best.

What baffles me is that the GK Vale salesman thinks IS compensates motion blur instead of camera shake.

dadu · 26th October 2007, 11:34

Although I had read the manual which stated that IS will reduce the blur but under certain situations it might not be able to completely remove it and suggested use of a tripod then.

But I was also baffled on what settings did they use in GK vale to show me a stationary blade image of a rotating fan and that too with a cheaper A&S camera.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsk1979

I think you misunderstand. Image stabilization will compensate for your hand shake. So when shooting a stationary subject if your hand shakes, it will compensate and picture won't be blurry. However if the subject is in motion, you need a high shutter speed.

Will try it, thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by heavy_foot

In the shutter speed priority mode .set the shutter speed to the fastest..and pop up the flash..now you can take pictures of the rotating fan.

Already tried that thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by Samurai

There is another way, switch off the fan, shoot in any mode. If the point is to see 3 blades clearly, this method is best.

Thats where my query came from !!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Samurai

What baffles me is that the GK Vale salesman thinks IS compensates motion blur instead of camera shake.

mail4ajo · 26th October 2007, 12:41

I am still learning on my 350D. I have a question similar to dadu. When I use the popup flash, I am unable to set the shutter speed to anything higher than 1/200 even in full manual mode. Thats not very effective to freeze the moving object. If I switch off the flash, the image gets underexposed.

I tried different combinations of the aperture, in vain. I know this is something to do with the flash sync. Please help me solve this.

25th October 2007, 18:11	#1276
mobike008 Distinguished - BHPian Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 11,703 Thanked: 14,829 Times View My Garage	Thanks guys, i downloaded Gimp and Image-resizer, will try both and see which one works better
	() Thanks

25th October 2007, 18:29	#1277
mail4ajo Senior - BHPian Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 1,957 Thanked: 331 Times View My Garage	As a first time SLR user (using Canon EOS 350D), I have the following questions: 1. Is there any longterm damage to the lens if a good quality UV filter is used. I have one so that I dont touch the lens and it doesnt get dusty. 2. Will using a scratchguard on the electronic display affect it. I see that after prolonged shoots, there is so much dust and oil from my face sticking on it. 3. While storing the camera, is it required to dismount the lens? Can I keep it mounted in the bag?
	() Thanks

25th October 2007, 19:15	#1280
Rudra Sen Team-BHP Support Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Bangalore Posts: 11,590 Thanked: 6,532 Times View My Garage	Old man’s view on buying camera/lens: 1. Take time to think as what you’re going to shoot mostly. 2. Take time to think as how often you’re going to take big prints. Big here is more than A3 size. Within A3 size, a 5 to 6 mega pixel camera is more than sufficient. You’ll see all the possible details and sharpness in that range. 3. Take time to think if you really need that RAW shooting feature. RAW in true sense is raw. You’ve to do everything to make that shot acceptable and camera is going to think that you know how to do that. 4. Through a single lens penta-prism live view (in DSLR) is always better than aim and shoot camera viewfinder. There’s no parallax error in DSLR. It’s not very important but important enough for those crucial framing and composition. 5. A compact digital camera sacrifices on critical aspects. Because it’s a compromise and too many features go into that camera. However any compact camera is more than enough for normal shooting situation. Any compact camera will give you good A4 prints. And most of the time, that’s more than enough. 6. Don’t trust a digital zoom. It’s pure rubbish. 7. In-built body image stabilizer is not as effective as in lens image stabilizer. In lens stabilizer is designed for that particular lens. It takes everything into account (weight of the lens, how many glasses and how many groups, focal length) and applies its shift function in lens barrel. To know more go here: Canon renewed Optical Image Stabilizer Lens with image stabilizer is expensive. Not only because it has stabilizer but also it’s construction and weather sealing process. This lens is designed for serious shooting which often fetch serious money. 8. If you’re a regular heavy-duty tripod user (very rarely the case in this forum though), image stabilizer is there for no help. Canon’s image stabilizer doesn’t work when lens is mounted on tripod. Image stabilizer drains battery faster. 9. Think twice before investing on lenses. They’re expensive propositions. An ultra wide may not bring that excitement after sometime unless you’ve the energy and inclination to exploit it’s potential. Similarly, a tele-zoom will sit in your house because it’s too cumbersome to carry always. 10. If you love macro shooting then invest right amount there. There’s no substitute for a good macro lens. 11. A 50mm 1.8/1.4/1.2 will give you the same result under most normal condition. 12. Most of the time a supplied kit lens is good for general photography. 13. Take any reviews from abroad with a pinch of salt. Climatic condition is very different in our country and there’s a big difference in exposure and resulted colours. 14. Buy cameras, which have proper presence and support in this country. 15. Keep a camera for few years. Use it well to know it well. You’re only ready for upgrade then. Last edited by Rudra Sen : 26th October 2007 at 11:08.
	() Thanks

26th October 2007, 10:47	#1285
dadu Senior - BHPian Join Date: May 2007 Location: Bangalore Posts: 3,803 Thanked: 462 Times View My Garage	Can anyone explain the Image Stabilization function works (suggest ISO setting/Shutter speed etc), when a picture of the rotating fan is taken, we should see 3 fan blades clearly and not the hazzy circle. GK Vale showed me this on the Canon A5xx (costing around 15k) but dont know how to get the same results in S5IS.
	() Thanks

26th October 2007, 10:53	#1286
tsk1979 Team-BHP Support Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 23,717 Thanked: 22,825 Times View My Garage	I think you misunderstand. Image stabilization will compensate for your hand shake. So when shooting a stationary subject if your hand shakes, it will compensate and picture won't be blurry. However if the subject is in motion, you need a high shutter speed.
	() Thanks

26th October 2007, 12:41	#1290
mail4ajo Senior - BHPian Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 1,957 Thanked: 331 Times View My Garage	I am still learning on my 350D. I have a question similar to dadu. When I use the popup flash, I am unable to set the shutter speed to anything higher than 1/200 even in full manual mode. Thats not very effective to freeze the moving object. If I switch off the flash, the image gets underexposed. I tried different combinations of the aperture, in vain. I know this is something to do with the flash sync. Please help me solve this.
	() Thanks