[funkykar]

^ Check with your mechanic if detecting the richness is by finding petrol in carb when the air filter is removed. May be Illango putting his views on the table will help us both too.

The tank is more prone to rust, especially if it has been running very less on petrol and petrol tank was often dry. The bottom of the tank is really really notorious for rusting. If you do not suspect a leak, leave it alone. If not experimenting with the tank is worth it. In the NE, its a pretty easy task of removing the tank and refitting it back as compared to other cars. Risks could be, you may find the tank rusted at bottom with no leak and you are in a catch 22 situation whether to fix it back or get the tank void of rust and repaint and put it back. Another risk is the brackets at the bottom holding the tank may too have rusted.

[ObsessedByFIAT]

Had a word with Ilango on this already!! He has been one person helping me out everytime I am stuck with some or the other thing, right from thinking of buying to finalizing to this issue! Thanks Ilango, appreciate your help!

Well, I will be visiting the mech today evening and will check if any rusting is visible. I do not wish to remove the tank before I have a spare one in hand, so that I do not land in a situation where I know the issue but do not have the resources to correct it! Though there are no leaks visible near the petrol tank(outside), maybe you are right about the rust inside the tank.

Thanks for your continued interest and replies! Will update the thread once we figure out the issue with the car.

Cheers!

[funkykar]

^ I agree. Leave it alone for now and fix any outstanding issues. Like Behram sir always says, when something is running fine, dont touch it

@Illango: Firstly, sorry for not letting you know about my latest acquisition. I wanted to tell everyone once I fixed all the small issues and start a ownership thread about it and let you and every one know about it.

Now, I need the thermostat switch for my NE badly. I checked a few place and couldnt get one. Please courier me one, I will transfer money online to you.

I need to discuss a few other minor issues with you, I will call you over the weekend.

[funkykar]

Hello All,

I have noticed something on my my 1995 December manufactured 118 NE. There is no mechanical pump under the hood. There is no petrol filter either nor a return filter. The return goes from carb to the return pipe fine. It has a electric pump and also a petrol filter some where at the rear(as per my mechanic). Did this come like this from factory or was it a mod that was done by the previous owner? If it was from the factory, what are the other minute things that would be different on these later models?

[ilangop]

Hi Karthik,
The setup is the same in my 1995 Oct 118NE. Hope thats factory fitted. Still lets wait for a reply from Behram Sir.

[ObsessedByFIAT]

@Ilango: I would like to have a look at that setup and see if it is same as that in my NE.

Further updates on the issue I am still facing is that the mech says the battery is weak and is unable to start the car. I am somehow not able to digest this as there is sufficient amount of spark and petrol to start it. Also the radiator fan spins just like it should.

Could not visit the mech yesterday evening. Will be going today.

Does any one here have the battery information which is used in NE? Can I use Figo's TDCi's battery to jump start the NE?

Cheers!

[funkykar]

If Figo uses the same battery as that of Icon, you can definitely use it. In fact it would be a perfect match for NE even in terms of its size. My 1991 NE is running on a Icon battery since 6 months.

[ObsessedByFIAT]

^ Thanks! Will use the Figo's battery to check if the car starts. If yes, I think I might have a spare Icon battery with my bother. Will collect it from him.

But do you think, the battery (which appears to be fine to me) can cause this issue? Provided everything is happening as expected when crancking the engine?

Cheers!

[funkykar]

As far as my knowledge goes, I doubt if it is the battery. Is the cranking sound feel fine or does it feel a bit weak? The answer to that should help you understand if it is the battery.

[ObsessedByFIAT]

Not sure if I will be able to exactly explain how it sounds, but it does feel like the car wants to start but dies off unexpectedly. Its just when we are about the leave the key after cranking that it dies. I hope you got the point here. (I know I can be very stupid at times!!!! )

[funkykar]

Originally Posted by ObsessedByFIAT

Not sure if I will be able to exactly explain how it sounds, but it does feel like the car wants to start but dies off unexpectedly. Its just when we are about the leave the key after cranking that it dies. I hope you got the point here. (I know I can be very stupid at times!!!! )

sounds are definitely not easy to explain mate! Why dont you just get the car to a battery mechanic's attention? He would be able to check the battery and the starter motor, just in case. Good luck.

I have not been able to replace the float jet yet because of busy schedules. May be by weekend, all should be well. Ilango will be sending me the much needed thermostat switch in a few days by courier to me. Thanks Ilango.

[ObsessedByFIAT]

^ +1 to that. I have been a bit busy since the last week. Will however go today and check out things myself. Will speak to Ilango if he can accompany me.

Dunno why, but even I am suspecting the starter motor here. Would you know the approx cost of it, just in case if I need to change it?

Cheers!

[funkykar]

Unsure if a new one would be available. I know for sure that the battery mechanics would be able to service it fine. If not, you can get one from scrap after checking easily.

My 95 NE also may need some servicing on the starter motor front. The crank sounds a bit weak but starts at a single medium-long crank. Battery is less than 6 months old. Since it starts up fine, not touching it for the moment.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by ObsessedByFIAT

Not sure if I will be able to exactly explain how it sounds, but it does feel like the car wants to start but dies off unexpectedly. Its just when we are about the leave the key after cranking that it dies. I hope you got the point here. (I know I can be very stupid at times!!!! )

Dear Abhishek / Karthik / Ilangop - if I have to reply to you in totality, it will take me around 3 hours to type everything. There is a huge amount of information to be shared. If I find time tonight, I will type and send. In the meantime, as you have clearly mentioned that the engine switches off just at the point when you leave the key, you mean to say that engine fires and runs when the starter motor is operating but as soon as you release the key from its spring loaded "starter actuate" position, then the engine dies. IS THIS CORRECT? If yes, the solution is extremely simple. The ignition switch has two wires going to the ignition coil. One wire goes to the input of the ballast resistor (bottom connector). The ballast resistor is the part which is attached to the body of the ignition coil. It allows you to use a 6 volts coil in a 12 volts system. The intention is to facilitate starting even if the battery voltage falls below 12 volts. However (now read carefully), during the "starter actuation" phase, means when the key is in the "spring loaded / holding" position, there is another wire which connects directly to the ignition coil's input terminal. This is the "+" terminal on the coil. If I remember correctly, the bottom wire was specified as black or dark blue and the top wire was specified bright yellow. The bottom wire has a slip-on Lucar connector whereas the top wire has a round connector. The intention of the top wire is to feed 12 volts directly to the 6 volts coil during cranking in order to shunt the ballast resistor out of the circuit during the cranking phase. This helps in starting. Correction is simple. Connect a wire from battery positive to the ignition coil "+" and then crank the engine. If it continues to run after the starter motor is outb of the circuit, the "bottom" wire which feeds the coil all the time is not getting current. Solution - CHANGE THE IGNITION SWITCH. Aword of caution - PLEASE ANALYSE LIKE A PRODUCT ENGINEER BEFORE YOU SPEND YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON CHANGING PARTS. The ignition switch is of JAY make, costs around 700 rupees and is extremely unreliable. If I were you, I would just have a wire with a simple 4 rupees ON / OFF switch on the dashboard, feeding the coil. To start, just pull the switch out, to stop, just disconnect. It is better than spending 700 bucks on something which I am telling you is unreliable, so be careful. Also, when you write on the forum, give clear inputs on symptoms / observations so that I can guide you properly. Most of your comments areextremely vague.

I am posting the picture of Jay Mehta's Himalayan Rally prepared 118NE GBO409. This car was prepared in England and had WEber carburettors / brake bias system fitted. You will observe that the rear bumper is fitted incorrectly. We pointed it out to the competitors but as the supplementary regulations did not specify anything on it, we allowed the car. I had taken this picture in 1989 at pre-event scrutiny. I was one of the scrutineers for that event. That's me on the extreme right in the second picture. I do not know the names of others. The car was extremely fast, one day before the event, Asif Hyderi who had gone to England with the car and I did 140 kmph on the Delhi Ghaziabad highway. In those days there were no double roads. It did not complete due to rear axle issue.

Dear Ram - the grey car looks good. Have you picked it up?

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[tantragna]

Behram sir, can I get to see more pics/info of that rally car!! I am very interested in making myself one of that version