[vnabhi]

For the first time in 11 years, the Red Injun gave me a slngle-digit FE, even though the driving route and conditions remained the same, with the only exception that the AC was used 100% owing to summer months. This apart, my son also used it for around 150 kms.

The FE was 9.9 on tanking up.

But even after that, the kms used plus the DTE were hovering around 425, which is far below the normal 470 to 480 reading i always used to get. Therefore, I tanked up again after 340 kms, and the FE improved to around 11. However, I checked the last service bill and discovered they had not changed the air filter. So off I went to Vibrant Ford on Friday, and got it changed for Rs 278. After that, the DTE plus kms used hovers around 450, which seems to be getting towards normal. I know DTE fluctuates, but I'll update this thread after the next refill.

[vnabhi]

Here's an update on the FE. After plonking in a new air filter, I drove for 148 kms, which included two 66-km trips to the airport. The FE improved to 13.22.

After that, we had a high-speed 350-kms drive to Nagarjunasagar with other Team-bhpians. I tanked up a few days later when the odo was 456 kms. The FE was 13.72 kmpl.

However, as both the top ups involved a fair amount of highway driving, I'll post another one after doing my typical city stint. So far so good.

[vnabhi]

Thanks to A4Anurag, below is a picture of the Red Injun taken during near the Nagarjunasagar dam:

[Rohan24]

Sir, have you changed the brake rotors after skimming? If not, can you share the rotor thickness they measured during the last service?
My discs have scoring marks on them, have driven like this for 20k kms and now feel the need to change the pads. Was thinking if skimming is advisable at my current disc thickness, which is 18mm (as measured in the last service). Otherwise, will have to go for completely new discs.

[vnabhi]

Originally Posted by Rohan24

Sir, have you changed the brake rotors after skimming? If not, can you share the rotor thickness they measured during the last service?
My discs have scoring marks on them, have driven like this for 20k kms and now feel the need to change the pads. Was thinking if skimming is advisable at my current disc thickness, which is 18mm (as measured in the last service). Otherwise, will have to go for completely new discs.

I've changed my brake discs 4 years ago, when the odo was around 47400 kms. I regretted that decision later, as the new rotors were causing steering judder while braking at triple-digit speeds. I discovered that unfortunately only a year after the change, as I did not go on highway drives for that year. So I could not get them to change under warranty.

I got the discs skimmed in Bangalore in November 2016, and there was tremendous improvement post that. Now the judder comes only while braking at the top speed, which I am willing to ignore, as I rarely drive at that speed. It's not safe either.

I'd advise you to get your discs skimmed first.

[Rohan24]

Originally Posted by vnabhi

I've changed my brake discs 4 years ago, when the odo was around 47400 kms. I regretted that decision later, as the new rotors were causing steering judder while braking at triple-digit speeds. I discovered that unfortunately only a year after the change, as I did not go on highway drives for that year. So I could not get them to change under warranty.

I got the discs skimmed in Bangalore in November 2016, and there was tremendous improvement post that. Now the judder comes only while braking at the top speed, which I am willing to ignore, as I rarely drive at that speed. It's not safe either.

I'd advise you to get your discs skimmed first.

Okay, will do that.
I currently have the juddering issue, been there since I bought it. There's some judder while braking at triple digit speeds. I've got used to it now and adapted my driving style accordingly but my dad always complains of lack of braking ability when he drives.
Now even I feel I need better brakes, so wanted to change pads and discs. Will skim first and just change the pads.

Did you change pads to OEM itself or Brembo?

[vnabhi]

Originally Posted by Rohan24

Okay, will do that.
I currently have the juddering issue, been there since I bought it. There's some judder while braking at triple digit speeds. I've got used to it now and adapted my driving style accordingly but my dad always complains of lack of braking ability when he drives.
Now even I feel I need better brakes, so wanted to change pads and discs. Will skim first and just change the pads.

Did you change pads to OEM itself or Brembo?

Rotors, pads, coolant, spark plugs, tie rods, bushes and ball joints were all changed at the same time.

Good luck to you.

[Rohan24]

Originally Posted by vnabhi

Rotors, pads, coolant, spark plugs, tie rods, bushes and ball joints were all changed at the same time.

Good luck to you.

So I gave it for the 70k service yesterday, a bit earlier than planned as the day before when I opened the bonnet I could see some bubbles in the coolant tank where the return hose is connected. This was in the morning after a short drive in traffic. I checked again after another 1hr drive in traffic and there was no sign of any bubbles. Same when I checked in the evening after returning from office, again in traffic. The coolant level was still at the "MAX" mark, which means there's no leak.

The technician first said it's normal and can happen sometimes. Closer inspection revealed a hairline crack in the tank. Now I had this tank replaced exactly a year ago, when it cracked real bad and all the coolant leaked out. How can the same part fail again so soon? Is it a case of a defective part or is there something else that could be causing excess pressures in the coolant circuit leading to this failure?

The SA said coolant tanks cracking was a common occurrence in petrol Fiestas. I hadn't heard of it earlier though. Although I did find that a lot of cars have this issue and it's down to it being a manufacturing defect.
I haven't changed it as of now as SA said it should be good for another 10k kms. Will keep a close eye on it though.

It also gave me the chance to check the discs. Found them to be severely worn, so decided to get them changed, along with the brake pads. New disc has a dia of 24mm, while mine had thinned down to 18mm. And the profile looked something like the attached drawing.
How long do the pads take to bed in and be fully effective?

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Rohan24

It also gave me the chance to check the discs. Found them to be severely worn, so decided to get them changed, along with the brake pads. New disc has a dia of 24mm, while mine had thinned down to 18mm. And the profile looked something like the attached drawing.
How long do the pads take to bed in and be fully effective?

It's a good thing you changed the discs and pads. The new disc thickness would be 24mm and diameter of about 10-11" 254-280 mm. New pads and rotors require bedding in. Go easy for about 500 km. You can follow the guidelines in this post: Brake run-in

[mayankk]

Originally Posted by Rohan24

So I gave it for the 70k service yesterday, a bit ------snip----in and be fully effective?

I didnt know that coolant tank issue was a recurrent one. It might be, and if so, I escaped it.
My tank cracked once, and my mechanic replaced it with a non OE one. Served me for the next 3-4 years with nary an issue till I sold her.
So maybe the problem is the OE tank(?).

[Rohan24]

Originally Posted by mayankk

I didnt know that coolant tank issue was a recurrent one. It might be, and if so, I escaped it.
My tank cracked once, and my mechanic replaced it with a non OE one. Served me for the next 3-4 years with nary an issue till I sold her.
So maybe the problem is the OE tank(?).

It was a non-OE tank with the same profile as the Fiesta's?! I'll look around if some garage can source something like that here.
Honestly, the problem isn't the replacement as it would come up to an expense of only around 500, but the fact that if it cracks and leaves me stranded somewhere. That would be a huge pain.

[mayankk]

Originally Posted by Rohan24

It was ---snip---would be a huge pain.

Yep.
I'll speak to him tomorrow. If he can get another one, I'll have it shipped out, OK?

[Rohan24]

Originally Posted by mayankk

Yep.
I'll speak to him tomorrow. If he can get another one, I'll have it shipped out, OK?

Oh thanks a lot man! That would be great.

[Rohan24]

Originally Posted by R2D2

It's a good thing you changed the discs and pads. The new disc thickness would be 24mm and diameter of about 10-11" 254-280 mm. New pads and rotors require bedding in. Go easy for about 500 km. You can follow the guidelines in this post: Brake run-in

Thanks for the link to the C class thread. Very informative. I knew there was a bedding in mileage but didn't know the procedure.

Also, forgot to add in my earlier post. Changed the engine oil to Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40. I actually was contemplating using Liqui Moly Ceratec along with this but read about how it's bad if there's sludge in the engine. After that, I thought of using Engine flush, to remove said sludge. But after reading your posts in the Synthetic vs Mineral oil thread, decided against it.
First impressions, engine feels a bit silent and smoother than when it was running on mineral oil. Over time, will check if fuel efficiency has improved.

I feel though, that replacing an engine gasket is always a better choice than running with sludge in the engine. But then, since that requires engine disassembly and we can't guarantee top quality work in our service centres, we prefer not to do it. Abroad, I guess most owners with high mileage engines don't hesitate in getting this done.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Rohan24

Thanks for the link to the C class thread. Very informative. I knew there was a bedding in mileage but didn't know the procedure.

Pay attention to the heat generated or you could end up with warped rotors and brake pad imprints. But it's not much of an issue with front disc brakes as they are ventilated. It's the rear solid discs that heat up far more due to lower ventilation at the rear and lack of cooling vanes when in use.

Changed the engine oil to Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40. I actually was contemplating using Liqui Moly Ceratec along with this but read about how it's bad if there's sludge in the engine. After that, I thought of using Engine flush, to remove said sludge. But after reading your posts in the Synthetic vs Mineral oil thread, decided against it. First impressions, engine feels a bit silent and smoother than when it was running on mineral oil. Over time, will check if fuel efficiency has improved.

They key to minimise sludge is to change oil and filter regularly and of course use quality lubes which you do with SHU. Synthetics provide superior lubrication properties and cleanliness. If you really keen to remove sludge **safely** from your car then change the synthetic oil in 5K kms. Depending on the amount of sludge you may have to repeat this twice or even thrice. Cheaper method is to use an economically priced mineral oil like Shell HX5 and follow the same process. Do not clock over 3K miles/5K km with cheap mineral oil.

I feel though, that replacing an engine gasket is always a better choice than running with sludge in the engine. But then, since that requires engine disassembly and we can't guarantee top quality work in our service centres, we prefer not to do it. Abroad, I guess most owners with high mileage engines don't hesitate in getting this done.

You won't be replacing a head gasket but more likely an oil seal. Also, old high mileage engines can run rough after a flush or even with synthetics that clean up the engine far better than mineral oil.

I prefer to avoid sludge formation & accumulation in the engine as much as possible hence regularly replace even synthetic oil and the oil filter annually or 10K km whichever occurs first.

Replacing a seal is not a complex job but I don't relish the thought of my car's engine or tranny being even partially dismantled for this purpose. An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure IMO.