Originally Posted by aargee
(Post 2771744)
Q. The bike has more torque, can I shift from 1 to 3 or 3 to 5 etc? A. Though there's no hard & fast rule, remember, this is a very very bad riding style; always follow linear gear shifts |
Originally Posted by aargee
(Post 2771744)
but never change to any size other than the specified stock size for a very simple reason it leads to speedo error & in ABS it leads to poor braking. Be it ABS or STD, stick to OE size only. |
Originally Posted by dustom_99
(Post 2772367)
What exactly would be scary about that? It is an idle adjustment screw.it would either give you a few more revs our a few less. Changes hence done to air flow and charge composition are still taken care of by ecu. It only make mixture slightly richer, but only for idle jet, not for main, also it opens throttle throat just a bit. I don't see how would that be a scary advice, specially for a bike rider(this one being into performance bike category)? Bikes are dangerous by there very nature,i would ask you not to chance your life on them. |
Adjusting this will increase or decrease the idle RPM, and the ECU can adjust,and compensate through the idle air valve actuation...but ECU action is to an extent only.Opening the throttle valve more than the idle air valves range will definitely increase the idle RPM, but lead to higher,off acceleration idle ,and roll on ....just as Ashwin had experienced..hence it is generally not advisable to play with MPFi idle setting without knowing the PROCEDURE FOR THE PARTICULAR ENGINE...just my thought. |
^^^^ My household own's an MPFI car and what I've noticed in that is that, even if we try raising the idle by increasing the cables tension, the idle will be bumped for a while, but after the computer starts to notice it, it will automatically lower the idle, irrespective of the tention on the cable. So I believe its best you guys do some more research on the same. Ride safe. |
The thing is that for the time being in my car I get a bump in idle and even though after a while it settles down automatically, the accelerator behaves different from stock, theres a change in per gear roll on as well, and the ECU cuts off earlier than its supposed to, and to bring everything back to normal, we'd have to set the cable tention to near default and then reset the ECU to get things back to normal, in cars its done by disconnecting the battery for a night. So in your case the worst case scenereo could be that you'll have to reset the ECU. But still, better safe than sorry. |
Originally Posted by niranjanrvce
(Post 2772392)
If you are not going to lug the engine - say you are upshifting at 7-8krpm from 3rd, any other particular reason why this is not recommended? I understand this is bad riding style, just curious on the mechanical effects of it |
Originally Posted by niranjanrvce
(Post 2772392)
Could you please explain on how the ABS models lead to poor braking on upsizing? By upsizing I mean the tyre width (140 to say 150) and not the wheel radius (stays at 17). |
Originally Posted by aargee
(Post 2772469)
I'll go with gthang here; one of the most experienced & wise gentleman said this on the other forum... and what did Ashwin say? |
Originally Posted by aargee
(Post 2771805)
Yes, but do take out very carefully; just follow the instruction of "gradual acceleration" through the trip. If your round trip is not more than 4K odd kms, then simply go ahead. But remember to check... - engine oil level every 100-200 Km (bike positioned straight) - engine temperature bar every 100-200 Km - top up coolant level before you start - use 10W30 HMSI FS engine oil - abnormal vibrations - avoid unnecessary top speed checks - prolonged use of T.W.O ride - sudden speed bursts |
Originally Posted by animeshb
(Post 2773091)
BTW, I see "T.W.O ride" being mentioned - sorry for my ignorance but what exactly does it refer to. |
Originally Posted by animeshb
(Post 2773091)
BTW, isn't there a good CBR 250R owners group India-wide or city wise. I understand there isn't a legacy and sense of elusiveness with the baby ceeber like there is with the NInja 250R but I am sure some owners love their machines and don't just treat them as "Premium commuter". |
Originally Posted by animeshb
(Post 2773091)
BTW, isn't there a good CBR 250R owners group India-wide or city wise. |
Originally Posted by aargee
(Post 2773295)
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Honda...17426001669641 https://www.facebook.com/CBR250R https://www.facebook.com/pages/Honda...39893632729674 |
Originally Posted by aargee
(Post 2771744)
Q. What's the good startup & shutoff procedure? Can I switch off the bike at signals to save fuel? A. If you care for your bike, then every time you start (not when the engine is operating at optimal temperatures) the engine, allow the engine to idle until the RPM falls down from 2K RPM, it doesn't take even 25 seconds. This will also help to lubricate the internals of the engine which is good; ride like you're breaking in the engine for first 1-2 Kms, by then the engine reaches optimal temperature after that start riding normally (not rip off). Its worth to switch off the engine at signals, if your wait time is more than 15-20 seconds. Stop the engine using the Engine kill switch & allow it remain in the OFF position (or ensure that the fan doesn't run when you switch to ON position as the fan draws power from battery). Switch to ON 3-5 second before you leave the signal & start the engine. |
Q. Why does the RPM goes to 2K RPM & then falls down when left idle? Is this normal? A. The bike is equipped with auto choke facility; hence everytime the bike is started there's more fuel let in by the ECU & hence the higher RPM; once the ECU learns that the bike is warm enough (not optimal operating temperature) the choke is cut off & hence the RPM falls down |
Originally Posted by Sheel
(Post 2773753)
My take - I always wait for the temp gauge to show the 3 bars before going over 5,000 revs |
Originally Posted by Sheel
(Post 2773753)
If you have ridden...the revs will fall back to idling. |
Originally Posted by aargee
(Post 2774077)
Though I do it too, but don't adhere to RPM; say, I ride above knocking RPM's. Any specific reason? |
This happens even at cold start |
Originally Posted by aargee
(Post 2771744)
Q. Why only 6th? What about other gears? A. In any gear, DO NOT lug the engine OR over rev the engine. Lugging is the state in which the engine runs on lower speed in higher gear & revving is viceversa. Run at adequate speed & optimal gear. This is only an example & not necessary to be followed... Gear shift 1-2 at 3000-3500 RPM 2-3 at 3300-3600 RPM 3-4 at 3800-4400 RPM 4-5 at 4200-4800 RPM 5-6 at 5000-5800 RPM and do a quick gear shift; this means, do not keep holding the clutch for longer time duration when shifting the gear. Always remember...you can even rev the engine occasionally, but never EVER LUG the engine |
Originally Posted by Sheel
(Post 2774088)
Knocking RPM's? This is new to me. Didn't get you |
Originally Posted by Sheel
(Post 2774088)
Surprisingly it doesn't on my CBR. |
Originally Posted by naveenroy
(Post 2774143)
Or am I right in shifting at these rpms. |
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