[pandu1564]

Originally Posted by SavoyWalrus

That's pretty cool. Did you have to change the wheel axle or does it go with the original Duke axle?

The installation was straightforward. It only took the local mechanic 5 minutes to complete, with no modifications needed at all. However, one important thing to keep in mind is that the side of the disc with the markings and branding on it should face inwards, towards the rim. Cheers!

PS- PART NUMBER IS DT131802

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by SavoyWalrus

That's pretty cool. Did you have to change the wheel axle or does it go with the original Duke axle?

The rotor is a direct fit, as it is mounted on the rim and the axle doesn't get interfered in anyway. This will fit only for the old model Dukes and not the newer ones.

Originally Posted by pandu1564

Fitted my 390 Duke with NS/RS 200 Petal Disc at front due to warped old disc.
Took a test ride to Tamhini Ghat.
The Feedback is crispier as compared to before.
Loving the look!!

Absolutely great mod. Did you consider the rear, as it's the same 230 mm.

Originally Posted by SavoyWalrus

Finally got the Zedling installed on my 2015 Duke 390, and boy oh boy, what a difference it has made to the ride. The old suspension used to bounce around a bit and was a little harsh on bad roads. The new one stays flat even when riding at a decent speed over poor roads and inspires a lot of confidence. Super impressed with the build quality as well as the overall performance. In conversation with them for front springs.

Awesome! Glad to have helped! Zedling's suspension is a great retro-fit for the Duke series and they transform the bike's handling by light years. They do make custom springs for the front IIRC and provide industry best warranty. Do keep your observations and future mods jotted, should be interesting.

Cheers!
VJ

[SavoyWalrus]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Awesome! Glad to have helped! Zedling's suspension is a great retro-fit for the Duke series and they transform the bike's handling by light years. They do make custom springs for the front IIRC and provide industry best warranty. Do keep your observations and future mods jotted, should be interesting.

Cheers!
VJ

Yep, the front springs are custom. Even the rear ones were set up by them according to the weight of the rider and calibrated before it was sent across to the dealer.

I've ordered the front springs and it should arrive in two weeks or so.

[pandu1564]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Absolutely great mod. Did you consider the rear, as it's the same 230 mm.

This mod was unplanned. I ran a defective, warped disc from KTM for nearly four years. After rebuilding my complete front braking system with a new Duke's master cylinder and caliper, I was desperately waiting for a new disc, but it never arrived. Thankfully, I saw a YouTube video about the same mod and contacted the creator on Instagram.

https://youtu.be/gaAlQ6Q1YUw?si=ha7qlZqiz6k659G-

He expressed strong confidence in the NS/RS 200 petal disc mod, having already clocked over 10,000 kilometers on his own setup.

I'm also considering the rear disc and will update if I switch it to the NS/RS 200 petal disc as well.

Cheers!

[shadowrider]

Originally Posted by pandu1564

However, one important thing to keep in mind is that the side of the disc with the markings and branding on it should face inwards, towards the rim. Cheers!

PS- PART NUMBER IS DT131802

Ah great, just when I was trying to save up money on 2013 D390 Love this mod. Now the marking and branding on it should towards the rim, is it because the ns/rs has it on the right hand side and ours is on the left hand side?

[pandu1564]

Originally Posted by shadowrider

Ah great, just when I was trying to save up money on 2013 D390 Love this mod. Now the marking and branding on it should towards the rim, is it because the ns/rs has it on the right hand side and ours is on the left hand side?

Yeah exactly because the disc is engineered to rotate in a specific direction that's why.

It will save you around 800 bucks compared to a stock disc

Cheers!!

[shadowrider]

The manual says to check the oil temperature once the bike has reached the operating temperature. Now which temperature bar is that ? I'm keeping close tab on the oil level, as this is a used bike.

So far I've checked the engine oil at temperature bars four and eight, after riding for some time and checking it at intervals of 1 min, 5 min and 10 min. The oil level is near the max line till the first 5 minutes, but what I've noticed is that as time passes and the engine starts to cool down, the level starts dropping. This makes me wonder if I'm low on oil

Once the engine is ice cold, no oil can be seen. Where does the oil settle down once it's cools down? My previous bike a 150cc commuter showed oil level even when cold, so this is a new experience for me.

[ebonho]

The engine casing should be warm to hot to the touch. Which means you should be able to put your hands on it to check.

Cheers, Doc

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

The rotor is a direct fit, as it is mounted on the rim and the axle doesn't get interfered in anyway. This will fit only for the old model Dukes and not the newer ones.

Dominar rotors are direct fit for 2017-2022 Dukes

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Absolutely great mod. Did you consider the rear, as it's the same 230 mm.

Rear rotors have a different bolt PCD and wont work on dukes

Originally Posted by shadowrider

The manual says to check the oil temperature once the bike has reached the operating temperature. Now which temperature bar is that ? I'm keeping close tab on the oil level, as this is a used bike.

Hal temperature bar on the dash is a good indicator.

Originally Posted by shadowrider

So far I've checked the engine oil at temperature bars four and eight, after riding for some time and checking it at intervals of 1 min, 5 min and 10 min. The oil level is near the max line till the first 5 minutes, but what I've noticed is that as time passes and the engine starts to cool down, the level starts dropping. This makes me wonder if I'm low on oil

Once the engine is ice cold, no oil can be seen. Where does the oil settle down once it's cools down? My previous bike a 150cc commuter showed oil level even when cold, so this is a new experience for me.

Engine oil level reducing when its cold is normal and nothing to worry about. Just check levels when engine is warm and i its close to max, all good.

[shadowrider]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Hal temperature bar on the dash is a good indicator.

This is the oil level after a 5-minute warm up with temp bar around 5 ( which is half) and 10-12 minutes cool down.

Engine oil level reducing when its cold is normal and nothing to worry about. Just check levels when engine is warm and i its close to max, all good.

This is how the sight glass looks when the engine is ice cold. Absolutely no engine oil to be seen.



Is this normal that no oil is seen even when the bike is leveled on a cold engine?

Lately the bike has been a bit dramatic and one issue that has recently been found during inspection is a bit of oil weeping under the throttle body. SVC said it could be droplets reaching from the breather tube and nothing to worry about, which is a bit doubtful.

The highlighted area is where the slight oil droplets can be seen.

[ebonho]

Once your engine is at operating temperature, the oil gets thinner and much more fluid, and it therefore does not need a cool off period of 10-12 minutes to drain back from all the lines and channels and give a correct read. In fact 10-12 minutes is excessive, and will likely give an incorrect read. 1 minute is what is recommended.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...ml#post5723952 (2024 KTM Duke 390 Review)

Cheers, Doc

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Dominar rotors are direct fit for 2017-2022 Dukes

You're right. I think I've reiterated this statement quite a while back, that Domi is a plagiarized version of the KTM with over 90% of Domi's engine/chassis parts a direct lift. Secondly, both the fore and aft calipers/pads of the Domi too are a direct swap barring the carrier plate, so yes that's a given.

You're also right about the PCD, which will vary primarily because the rim width and design is different on both the bikes. Personally, I haven't had the opportunity to verify the PCD but in the name of OCD, it piqued my interest.

Originally Posted by shadowrider

This is the oil level after a 5-minute warm up with temp bar around 5 ( which is half) and 10-12 minutes cool down.
This is how the sight glass looks when the engine is ice cold. Absolutely no engine oil to be seen.
Is this normal that no oil is seen even when the bike is leveled on a cold engine?

The warmed up sight glass oil level reading on your motorcycle is perfectly per spec, right in between the maximum and minimum. Now, why you don't see the cold oil level is simple. When your bike is on side stand (side stand on the left) the bike tilts to the left, the entire engine oil from the sump is transferred to the left of the bike's innards where gearbox is situated. Oil will flow back into these tight galleys and once cold they will take a longer time to show the reading.

PRO TIP! Your engine oil grade is what determines the viscosity of your oil. i.e. how well the oil flows. Thinner a grade, faster the oil flow, thicker the grade slower the oil flow. Remember you made a point why your 150 cc showed quicker oil levels? Now you know why.

A 15w50 will flow slower than a 10w30 would. Hence you read ZERO oil level when the bike is stone-cold. Why? Because of all the above reasons combined, the bike on side stand, oil creeps its way to the left of the engine when left overnight, thicker engine oil means the oil has to overcome all the entry points, shifters, cogs, oil galleys, bearings etc, and then to the right side of the bike finally to your oil sight glass. It's a tough life isn't it!

Stop sweating over it, your bike's oil level is perfectly fine.

Originally Posted by shadowrider

The highlighted area is where the slight oil droplets can be seen. Lately the bike has been a bit dramatic and one issue that has recently been found during inspection is a bit of oil weeping under the throttle body. SVC said it could be droplets reaching from the breather tube and nothing to worry about, which is a bit doubtful.

Typical blowby either due to excessive oil or worn out rings or simply a loose manifold i.e. bolts. Duke 390s when ridden hard will weep around the oil breather hose on the air filter box -- pretty normal and common scenes. Start off by removing your air filter and inspect for any oil accumulation inside your airfilter box. If yes, drain the oil by unplugging the oil drain plug provided on every air filter box. Also would strongly recommend you to clean your throttle body.

Cheers!
VJ

[Samarth 619]

Originally Posted by timuseravan

For all the riders with Gen 1 (and maybe Gen2?) Duke 390, consider changing the sprocket set to the one from D250. The ratio changes from 15-45 (D390) to 14-46 (D250). On paper this is just about 10% increase in torque but the bike feels much more smoother lower down in the range and also accelerates faster. The trade off is that you end up loosing some top speed but I have been able to hit 130+ easily which is more than enough for me.

I have had this setup for more than 3K km now and super happy with it

I already have it on my 390 gen 1. Its a blessing in the city.
I'm easily doing 55 kmph (meter indicated) in top gear now, but that's not important. More important is, its just more dominating everywhere. The 1st gear acceleration is better now.

However, while riding it back on the highway to my city, I could see it was on the higher side of revs, slightly above 5krpm... so, not the best advice for a seasoned tourer, but a great one for a commuter.
On the highway, I loved seeing it doing 80 kmph, cruising comfortably around 4~krpm, returning 40+ kmpl too, but not anymore.
But again, all I'm doing nowadays is commuting, so its all good...

[ebonho]

Guys, an issue I have been noticing. Ever since I changed my fuel pump.

Earlier my bike would start with literally quarter crank. Just a press of the starter button would fire her to life. And the rpm would not "search" as much initially, nor the low speed fueling be as grabby. Even stalling by mistake once getting out of my gate.

All this I am noticing recently. The starter needs to be thumbed a lot longer. The rpm "searches" on startup. And low speed fueling is very grabby.

Runs perfectly once I give her the beans, within the first kilometre.

What gives?

Cheers, Doc

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Guys, an issue I have been noticing. Ever since I changed my fuel pump.

Earlier my bike would start with literally quarter crank. Just a press of the starter button would fire her to life. And the rpm would not "search" as much initially, nor the low speed fueling be as grabby. Even stalling by mistake once getting out of my gate.

All this I am noticing recently. The starter needs to be thumbed a lot longer. The rpm "searches" on startup. And low speed fueling is very grabby.

Runs perfectly once I give her the beans, within the first kilometre.

What gives?

Cheers, Doc

Idle hunting can mean a couple of things, bad/stale fuel or a weak intermittent spark generating system etc .i.e. loose plug cap to terminal, loose plug cap to spark plug or a faulty spark plug, these are rudimental checks. Considering your fuel pump motor alone was replaced, chances are it might start to act -- finicky.

Secondly, if the engine sounds lethargic while the starter tries to crank and a combination of lethargic start up and late start -- just could mean a weak/failing battery.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ