[b16h22]

Originally Posted by doga

If I don't have a solution in next couple days, I'd get regular stock Rolon 'cheese' chain installed at the svc and then patiently ride though the monsoon after which the chain would be up for replacement. Hopefully I'd be able to source a rivet type link by then!

The Rolon chain & sprocket kit, not the OE Rolon supplied kit, was pretty solid for me. In fact it required very minimal adjustment compared to the OE set.

[doga]

Originally Posted by b16h22

The Rolon chain & sprocket kit, not the OE Rolon supplied kit, was pretty solid for me. In fact it required very minimal adjustment compared to the OE set.

I meant the OE kit which the svc stocks. the aftermarket Rolon kit then must be more expensive? Also does it come separated or already joined like the OE one?

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by doga

I meant the OE kit which the svc stocks. the aftermarket Rolon kit then must be more expensive? Also does it come separated or already joined like the OE one?

It was joined iirc and comparably priced to the OE kit. This was a good few years back though. The fancier Brass stuff is a bit more expensive.

https://www.rolonpremium.co.in/produ...IT%20HXR%20199

https://www.rolonpremium.co.in/produ...-_KIT_HXRC_268

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by doga

I meant the OE kit which the svc stocks. the aftermarket Rolon kit then must be more expensive? Also does it come separated or already joined like the OE one?

I'll be getting a brass kit in a few days. Will update here. A young aggressive rider I know is on his 2nd set (probably the third by now) and claims it lasts him 20,000+ km a set. Its less than a grand more in price than the plain vanilla kit in return.

Cheers, Doc

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by doga

Vijay, I am no grease monkey, however I am always pretty meticulous when I do something. I did take my time with the clip type master. With a rivet type link, you do it incrementally each time taking measurements,
I do agree though that the installation has to be spot on and a professional is recommended probably the reason the KTM chain sprocket comes as a joined chain, and you have to remove the swingarm pivot bolt for installation. I used to think how silly this is, but now probably it makes sense as you can never trust an underpaid mechanic with being through with this process.
If I don't have a solution in next couple days, I'd get regular stock Rolon 'cheese' chain installed at the svc and then patiently ride though the monsoon after which the chain would be up for replacement. Hopefully I'd be able to source a rivet type link by then!

Valid points! Taking a pragmatic approach to this Doga the variables are aplenty for a chain losing a link. Let me share this anecdote, which I'm sure you're already aware of. You'd have heard a pampered chain lasting less than 12k and an over/underslacked and neglected chain lasting upwards of 20k. The variables are aplenty and it's simply unanswerable in a perforce manner -- at least I couldn't.

But what I could say and as you've rightly pointed, a sealed chain is a pain in the posterior to install and uninstall especially if done without any experience. While they simply reduce the redundancy factor to 99% yet much can go awry within that 1% which again as you see aplenty across the board and irrespective of CCs on the Internet. The soft point I'm trying to convey is Made in Jap or Made in India is simply irrelevant when things go wrong, because when things go wrong, they simply go wrong or simply go worse.

Doga, get yourself the stock chain or Rolon manufactured after market chains such as brass coated and or non-brass coated polished chain kit. They simply offer comparatively slight edge over the stock (OE is Rolon MFRD) -- and save the best for the last..

Good luck to you!

Cheers!
VJ

[Moose]

Forgive me if this isn't the correct place to ask.

What do I look for when buying a 2014 Gen 1 Duke 390 that has done 15490km? How do I go about checking the bike if I wish to purchase it? I don't have access to fancy tools, just some wrenches, multimeter and a torch. Any guidance and help would me much appreciated.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Moose

Forgive me if this isn't the correct place to ask.

What do I look for when buying a 2014 Gen 1 Duke 390 that has done 15490km? How do I go about checking the bike if I wish to purchase it? I don't have access to fancy tools, just some wrenches, multimeter and a torch. Any guidance and help would me much appreciated.

Take it to a KTM authorised service center and get it checked out. They will check the ECU for the bike history and true kilometer reading. They will also check the prior service history of the bike online on their centralised system. They will ride the bike and check out the motor, chassis, wheels, drivetrain, brakes, suspension, electricals, MID, condition of fluids. Smoke. Odd sounds. Any signs of damage. Telltale signs of abuse or a crash. If possible get the tank lifted and check the spark plug and the fuel pump.

I did the same when picking up my 390 from Kolhapur from a totally unknown guy on OLX, where I had to deal with a goon type agent/strongman/middleman. When I was satisfied, I paid him full in cash, got all the signed forms and declarations, put on my jacket and gloves and helmet (I went to Kolhapur catching the morning bus, with cash in pocket ) and rode the bike back to Poona.

Good days!

Cheers, Doc

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by Moose

Forgive me if this isn't the correct place to ask.

What do I look for when buying a 2014 Gen 1 Duke 390 that has done 15490km? How do I go about checking the bike if I wish to purchase it? I don't have access to fancy tools, just some wrenches, multimeter and a torch. Any guidance and help would me much appreciated.

1. Take a mechanic with you - no excuses.. if you're mechanically uninclimed and have the benefit of doubt. Paying 500 bucks to a mechanic is well worth it than paying triple layer. Be smart, be decisive.

2. A stock bike is a good bike. Rudimentals apart, as much stock the bike as is, without unduly and gawdy modifications, the better and easier it is for inspection.

3. Get her last service record with date checked and any accidental records. Make sure the bike's chain sprocket, tires, battery and electricals are in their working order. Compression check is strongly recommended along with clutch. Make sure engine oil glass isn't black and oil level visible. A blackened glass means an engine that's neglected.

4. A thorough test ride with pillion will let one know how the chassis and bike handles which is prime for finding any sinister faults either with the forks or chassis - important.

5. All these rudimentals apart, talk with the owner about anything that needs to be attended to immediately, that way you might get clarity on upcoming replacements if any, etc.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by doga

I meant the OE kit which the svc stocks. the aftermarket Rolon kit then must be more expensive? Also does it come separated or already joined like the OE one?

The Rolon dealer, Mr. Taran Singh Kandhari, so kindly just hand delivered these kits to me at home. A big thank you to Mr. Nesan from Rolon, my longtime Bullet racing days OE sponsor, for making the Gixxer kit available. The Duke 390 kits are freely available at most dealers. Not so the Gixxer ones, that have just been launched and perpetually out of stock.













Fresh from the discussion on the fallibility (and attendant risks) of chain locks for high rpm, high torque applications, I asked him to first confirm whether both chains wete one piece rivet chains.

He confirmed that the KTM Duke 390 definitely was, but that the Gixxer 250 SF chain was a lock type chain. My heart sank, and I told him then that I was definitely not interested in picking that one up. So I asked him how about the regular Rolon chain for the Gixxer. He checked online and confirmed that the regular chain in fact was a single piece riveted chain without lock (those come with a -02 code, while the lock type chains come with a -01).

He seemed surprised that the cheaper regular chain was riveted and the costlier brass chain (with induction hardened sprocket, etc.) was not. Then he said, let me open the packing and check the chain physically (which is what I assumed he had). And lo and behold, the chain was a single piece riveted chain (photo below of the actual unpacked chain)! Huge sigh of relief!



Duke 390 chain without lock.



Gixxer 250 SF chain with lock (per the system photo and specs and code).



Ordinary Gixxer 250 SF chain without lock.



Actual unpacked chain of the Gixxer 250 FF kit, without lock. Single piece, riveted.

The Gixxer 250 SF chain is an O ring chain while the Duke 390 chain is an X ring chain. The Duke 390 kit also mentions (different to the Gixxer kit) a rubberized sprocket for the front sprocket. Both kits have induction hardened sprockets at the rear.

Cheers, Doc

[doga]

That kit looks good and seems reasonably priced doc. The brass is just the colour I assume as a copper alloy in chain sprocket application will be disastrous
LRL has no availability of a rivet type link. They did offer me a replacement clip type link for 500 quids which I obviously didn't opt for. They wont sell the clip separately. I scoured the local market and got a noname 520 clip type link for 50 quid. Using the clip from that currently. Thinking of securing it with a wire or something for now, not sure how exactly though. Given it doesnt bear any tension I am not too bothered about the strength.


Going to try and source a rivet type link later. If I dont find one, it is going to be the one you ordered.
I have a different issue with the bike which needs fixing so going to look into that first. Will update the thread with details.

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by Moose

Forgive me if this isn't the correct place to ask.

What do I look for when buying a 2014 Gen 1 Duke 390 that has done 15490km? How do I go about checking the bike if I wish to purchase it? I don't have access to fancy tools, just some wrenches, multimeter and a torch. Any guidance and help would me much appreciated.

Apart from the points Vijay and Doc specified, look out for the typical Gen 1 D390 niggles.

• Look out for intermittent zero reading on speedo. This could be a stator coil issue or a bad speedo unit. It could also mean other electrical trouble.
• Speedo cover gets soft and brittle on these and water ingress into the speedo unit is common.
• Rear shock failures were common due to dirt getting trapped inside the shock body.
• Master cylinders can get weak and rear especially used to go bad early on less used bikes.
• Coolant mixing with oil was common so look for the color and appearance of oil through the window.
• Run the bike to operating temps and check if the radiator fan is coming on. It comes on pretty soon in hot ambient temps. I've seen failed fans on some early 390s.
• Make sure there is no rust inside the tank and fuel pump works well. Fuel pumps on the older gen bikes are hard to source now. Since it is a less used bike, be aware.
• Listen for any abnormal noises from the head region like loud tappets and valvetrain noise. These bikes are generally noisy though. Also check for any timing chain noise.
• The LED indicators break off with age. 4 of them can be expensive to replace.

These issues are not terminal but keep in mind the effort and expenses required to sort them out. First Gen bikes are now 10 years old so you need to be realistic about the condition of them. And don't forget the other aspects like chain, bearings, seals, battery etc that can go bad on a less used and 10 year old KTM.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Take it to a KTM authorised service center and get it checked out.

How long do they take to perform a complete check? I am headed there by train and have to return on the same day.

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

1. Take a mechanic with you - no excuses.. if you're mechanically uninclimed and have the benefit of doubt. Paying 500 bucks to a mechanic is well worth it than paying triple layer. Be smart, be decisive.

2. A stock bike is a good bike. Rudimentals apart, as much stock the bike as is, without unduly and gawdy modifications, the better and easier it is for inspection.

3. Get her last service record with date checked and any accidental records. Make sure the bike's chain sprocket, tires, battery and electricals are in their working order. Compression check is strongly recommended along with clutch. Make sure engine oil glass isn't black and oil level visible. A blackened glass means an engine that's neglected.

4. A thorough test ride with pillion will let one know how the chassis and bike handles which is prime for finding any sinister faults either with the forks or chassis - important.

5. All these rudimentals apart, talk with the owner about anything that needs to be attended to immediately, that way you might get clarity on upcoming replacements if any, etc.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

1. I can't take a mechanic with me. The one that specializes in KTM is too busy and cleans bike chains with wire brush. After seeing that, I don't ever go to him.

2. The bike looks stocks, only accessories I saw were some aux lights.

3. Bike was serviced on Oct'23 and owner didn't hesitate in showing the bill too. I'll have to take it service centre to check the compression and clutch. Is there any alternate way to do that?

4. Definitely will take a test ride and I'll insist on a longer one too.

5. Off the top of your head, What can I expect to be replaced ? My guess is battery, chain and sprocket kit, swing arm and wheel bearing inspection and new tyres.

Originally Posted by b16h22

Apart from the points Vijay and Doc specified, look out for the typical Gen 1 D390 niggles.

• Look out for intermittent zero reading on speedo. This could be a stator coil issue or a bad speedo unit. It could also mean other electrical trouble.
• Speedo cover gets soft and brittle on these and water ingress into the speedo unit is common.
• Rear shock failures were common due to dirt getting trapped inside the shock body.
• Master cylinders can get weak and rear especially used to go bad early on less used bikes.
• Coolant mixing with oil was common so look for the color and appearance of oil through the window.
• Run the bike to operating temps and check if the radiator fan is coming on. It comes on pretty soon in hot ambient temps. I've seen failed fans on some early 390s.
• Make sure there is no rust inside the tank and fuel pump works well. Fuel pumps on the older gen bikes are hard to source now. Since it is a less used bike, be aware.
• Listen for any abnormal noises from the head region like loud tappets and valvetrain noise. These bikes are generally noisy though. Also check for any timing chain noise.
• The LED indicators break off with age. 4 of them can be expensive to replace.

These issues are not terminal but keep in mind the effort and expenses required to sort them out. First Gen bikes are now 10 years old so you need to be realistic about the condition of them. And don't forget the other aspects like chain, bearings, seals, battery etc that can go bad on a less used and 10 year old KTM.

Reading this made me think twice. I was under the impression that parts would be easily available from Bajaj/KTM themselves. That being said I will be extra careful and definitely take the bike to KTM svc for a through inspection.

Thank you all for such valuable information. I will create a detailed check list of niggles and issues you guys outlined and follow it diligently when inspecting the bike and a follow up inspection by KTM svc should probably find what I have missed. I'll see if I can get some high res images for you guys to take a look at.

Thanks again guys, this means a lot.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Moose

How long do they take to perform a complete check? I am headed there by train and have to return on the same day.

2-3 hours at the SVC is what you should account for. Better if you pull strings and have them intimated that you would be coming. That way you won't have to wait, and will have the supervisor in the know and on your side, and he will hopefully assign a seasoned hand to you. Best you do not go to the same SVC the owner took his bike to. And talk to the supervisor on phone a day prior and take gim into confidence so that he gives you the unvarnished picture, without pressure from the owner (who would ve there too).

Cheers, Doc

[Moose]

Originally Posted by ebonho

2-3 hours at the SVC is what you should account for. Better if you pull strings and have them intimated that you would be coming. That way you won't have to wait, and will have the supervisor in the know and on your side, and he will hopefully assign a seasoned hand to you. Best you do not go to the same SVC the owner took his bike to. And talk to the supervisor on phone a day prior and take gim into confidence so that he gives you the unvarnished picture, without pressure from the owner (who would ve there too).

Cheers, Doc

Unfortunately, the city has only one ktm service center and going to a different one is going 114km away. So, checkup has to be done at the same svc, which already gives the owner an upper hand.
I have no experience with Duke 390s and this particular situation is going to require intricate know-how about it. I just hope things work out for me, my through routine check-up catches him off-guard and hopefully, he confesses all the details.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Moose

Unfortunately, the city has only one ktm service center and going to a different one is going 114km away. So, checkup has to be done at the same svc, which already gives the owner an upper hand.
I have no experience with Duke 390s and this particular situation is going to require intricate know-how about it. I just hope things work out for me, my through routine check-up catches him off-guard and hopefully, he confesses all the details.

Most of my used/non brand new (ARAI) bike deals, I have gone on instinct and my own knowledge and feel and eyes and ears, with suitable to the extent possible background checks and my first gut instinct when you first see the bike. Some mechanic overview and corroboration is always good. Even if remotely (photos on WhatsApp, video calls, etc.).

You can only do so much and still if a guy wants to and sets out to con you, for that brief decision window he can easily put a blanket over the flaw, which you will then discover only later. I was similarly duped on my Kinetic 4S deal for my son, for his tuition classes. Brand new looking bike. Barely ridden. And an old very respectable looking uncle. And the bike had a major clutch issue. Which came to light only when the oil drained to the other side of the engine across the non sealing gasket seals. And the whole bike started juddering. By then the bike is yours and the ex owner will simply shrug.

One thing that I learned from that sordid episode, which is probably the only hold you have over a potentially dishonest seller, is the transfer forms. Do not transfer the bike on to your name, and when he asks you if its done, tell him you know what he did and you fully intend on reselling the bike forward, possibly to an agent/other dubious third party, on the same forms signed by the dishonest seller. And he deserves whatever are the consequences.

Watch him squirm then.

Cheers, Doc