[b16h22]

Originally Posted by Moose

Reading this made me think twice. I was under the impression that parts would be easily available from Bajaj/KTM themselves. That being said I will be extra careful and definitely take the bike to KTM svc for a through inspection.

Thanks again guys, this means a lot.

That's not a bad thing when you are going to buy an almost 10 year old KTM . The more educated you are about the purchase, the better. Don't rush into a purchase because it looks good on paper. Think twice or thrice before pulling that trigger. I've only bought used bikes and it can be a double edged sword from my personal experience.

Parts in general are easy to source through KTM or Bajaj if it's shared with their products. Some of the specific bits for first gen are getting harder to procure. But this also depends on the region you are in.

[Dhruv Shetty]

Originally Posted by Moose

Forgive me if this isn't the correct place to ask.

What do I look for when buying a 2014 Gen 1 Duke 390 that has done 15490km? How do I go about checking the bike if I wish to purchase it? I don't have access to fancy tools, just some wrenches, multimeter and a torch. Any guidance and help would me much appreciated.

Been off Teambhp for awhile , going by the discussions I would like to add some points.

1. Being a 10 year old bike, which has done 16000 kms, there will accelerated parts wear once it starts getting used, example the coolant lines, bearings, other rubber parts.

2. Make sure to get the ODO meter reading verified by the Service centre, mostly the instrument cluster is changed by the owner, one way to find out if possible is the service reminder, pre 2015 390s the service interval was 5000 (Standard clutch version) compared to the 7500 kms (Slipper clutch version). If the service reminder shows more than 5k, that means it has been changed. If shows less, just ask politely if it has been changed and if you can reset the service interval reminder or get it checked through KTM.

3. Keep in mind that the wiring harness is old and may need replacement in the future.

That's it from my side, I have been living with a pre owned 1st Gen 2014 390.

If you need some references about the upkeep and the rest you can go through mine and Bhpian Sunnyboi ownership review on Teambhp, both of our reviews are in depth.

Cheers,
Dhruv Shetty

Originally Posted by Motolysis

Hello,

I am currently in the process of completely tearing down my Gen 1 Duke 390, in order to learn more about how it works and acquire a few skills along the way. Since this is my very first post on TBHP, I couldn't ascertain from the rules whether this could be deemed enough to start a new thread hence I am going to start by asking my doubts here.

Although I am not an absolute noob when It comes to tinkering with machines, I have always been more of a do-it-to-learn kind of person and therefore I don't have too much knowledge of what-what is on a motorcycle and how what works. That being said, if the mods permit I would like to start a new thread to share the progress and learnings during this complete tear-down, clean-up and re-assembly.

For now, the following are questions I would be extremely grateful to have answers to, by the more experienced and knowledgeable members :

1. Most screws and bolts look like this
1.1Should I simply replace these with new ones? Or is there a way to know if they are structurally compromised?

This thread is all about clearing each other's doubts .

Take your time and be patient while working on the bike, by the looks of it just spray some WD 40 on those bolts and let it sit for a while and remove them carefully, if any of the bolts are not coming out, leave it for the time being and deal with later.

Cheers,
Dhruv Shetty.

[Motolysis]

Hello,

I am currently in the process of completely tearing down my Gen 1 Duke 390, in order to learn more about how it works and acquire a few skills along the way. Since this is my very first post on TBHP, I couldn't ascertain from the rules whether this could be deemed enough to start a new thread hence I am going to start by asking my doubts here.

Although I am not an absolute noob when It comes to tinkering with machines, I have always been more of a do-it-to-learn kind of person and therefore I don't have too much knowledge of what-what is on a motorcycle and how what works. That being said, if the mods permit I would like to start a new thread to share the progress and learnings during this complete tear-down, clean-up and re-assembly.

For now, the following are questions I would be extremely grateful to have answers to, by the more experienced and knowledgeable members :

1. Most screws and bolts look like this



1.1 Should I simply replace these with new ones? Or is there a way to know if they are structurally compromised?
1.2 I read that dipping them in white vinegar and leaving them for 24 hours should help. Is there any harm in trying this?

2. Why does the handlebar have holes in it?



There are no screws or bolts that go in these holes. They are located on the bottom side of the handlebar when it's mounted.

3. Visible crack on the bottom of the fuel tank along with seepage



Is this repairable? If yes, then how?

4. Why is the fuel so red?



It is normal petrol and not premium. Is it because it's old?
I did top-up fuel recently right before starting the tear-down as I wanted to get the bike started. (Failed to start.)

5. A combination of losing patience and being stupid



Well, this isn't the only mistake that has been made till now. But this is the one that I am stuck with. So if anyone has any ideas on how to fix this, it would be of great help. I have tried vise grip pliers and torx bits, but nothing worked.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Most of my used/non brand new (ARAI) bike deals, I have gone on instinct and my own knowledge and feel and eyes and ears, with suitable to the extent possible background checks and my first gut instinct when you first see the bike. Some mechanic overview and corroboration is always good. Even if remotely (photos on WhatsApp, video calls, etc.).

Originally Posted by b16h22

That's not a bad thing when you are going to buy an almost 10 year old KTM . The more educated you are about the purchase, the better. Don't rush into a purchase because it looks good on paper. Think twice or thrice before pulling that trigger. I've only bought used bikes and it can be a double edged sword from my personal experience.

I am already scouring youtube for useful information when buying used KTM in general and 390 in particular. I already got myself a service manual to read up on the troubleshooting guidelines. From what I remember while working on my ex Duke 200, everything is pretty easy to access, apart from the spark plug and valves. Here are some images for your keen eyes. At this moment this all I could get, I will definitely get some high res ones once I get there, which will be next week end.

Originally Posted by ebonho

One thing that I learned from that sordid episode, which is probably the only hold you have over a potentially dishonest seller, is the transfer forms. Do not transfer the bike on to your name, and when he asks you if its done, tell him you know what he did and you fully intend on reselling the bike forward, possibly to an agent/other dubious third party, on the same forms signed by the dishonest seller. And he deserves whatever are the consequences.

Watch him squirm then.

I hope it doesn't come to that. It would be nice to give a good scare to the dishonest sellers but I would be quite hesitant to pass my troubles to other unsuspecting, excited, potential ktm owners.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by Dhruv Shetty

Been off Teambhp for awhile , going by the discussions I would like to add some points.

1. Being a 10 year old bike, which has done 16000 kms, there will accelerated parts wear once it starts getting used, example the coolant lines, bearings, other rubber parts.

2. Make sure to get the ODO meter reading verified by the Service centre, mostly the instrument cluster is changed by the owner, one way to find out if possible is the service reminder, pre 2015 390s the service interval was 5000 (Standard clutch version) compared to the 7500 kms (Slipper clutch version). If the service reminder shows more than 5k, that means it has been changed. If shows less, just ask politely if it has been changed and if you can reset the service interval reminder or get it checked through KTM.

3. Keep in mind that the wiring harness is old and may need replacement in the future.

That's it from my side, I have been living with a pre owned 1st Gen 2014 390. .

If you need some references about the upkeep and the rest you can go through mine and Bhpian Sunnyboi ownership review on Teambhp, both of our reviews are in depth .

Cheers,
Dhruv Shetty

Thanks for this vital information, I will definitely be reading your and Sunnyboi's review for more information.

[Dhruv Shetty]

Originally Posted by Moose

I am already scouring Youtube for useful information when buying used KTM in general and 390 in particular. I already got myself a service manual to read up on the troubleshooting guidelines. From what I remember while working on my ex Duke 200, everything is pretty easy to access, apart from the spark plug and valves. Here are some images for my troubles to other unsuspecting, excited, potential ktm owners.

Going through the pictures of the bike, initial impressions, it has been taken care of, all the bolts look new and nothing looks out of place.

Cheers,
Dhruv Shetty.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Moose

Here are some images for your keen eyes. At this moment this all I could get, I will definitely get some high res ones once I get there, which will be next week end.

I hope it doesn't come to that. It would be nice to give a good scare to the dishonest sellers but I would be quite hesitant to pass my troubles to other unsuspecting, excited, potential ktm owners.

Bike looks clean. And scratchless. Indicators have been replaced. Front bumper mud flap is missing. Mirrors rubbers are good. No scratches on hand guards or crash guards. Sone kind of sock over the rear shocker. Both seats have been upholstered and rexine changed. Nice clean looking stock Gen 1 Duke!

Cheers, Doc

P.S. Please reread what I suggested. I said this is what you tell him when he contacts you. Not this is what you do.

[Moose]

Originally Posted by Dhruv Shetty

Going through the pictures of the bike, initial impressions, it has been taken care of, all the bolts look new and nothing looks out of place.

Cheers,
Dhruv Shetty.

Originally Posted by ebonho

Bike looks clean. And scratchless. Indicators have been replaced. Front bumper mud flap is missing. Mirrors rubbers are good. No scratches on hand guards or crash guards. Sone kind of sock over the rear shocker. Both seats have been upholstered and rexine changed. Nice clean looking stock Gen 1 Duke!

Thank you both for your vote of confidence.

Originally Posted by ebonho

P.S. Please reread what I suggested. I said this is what you tell him when he contacts you. Not this is what you do.

Apologies. Fingers crossed, hope it never comes to that.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by Motolysis

I am currently in the process of completely tearing down my Gen 1 Duke 390, in order to learn more about how it works and acquire a few skills along the way. Since this is my very first post on TBHP, I couldn't ascertain from the rules whether this could be deemed enough to start a new thread hence I am going to start by asking my doubts here.

Although I am not an absolute noob when It comes to tinkering with machines, I have always been more of a do-it-to-learn kind of person and therefore I don't have too much knowledge of what-what is on a motorcycle and how what works. That being said, if the mods permit I would like to start a new thread to share the progress and learnings during this complete tear-down, clean-up and re-assembly.

Please start a new thread. You can also go thru my thread where I have also torn down and built up my Gen 1 Duke 390.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motor...ypto-bike.html (2013 KTM Duke 390 - The Crypto Bike!)

Originally Posted by Motolysis

1.1 Should I simply replace these with new ones? Or is there a way to know if they are structurally compromised?
1.2 I read that dipping them in white vinegar and leaving them for 24 hours should help. Is there any harm in trying this?

Rusted bolts arent compromised. However their head might be, removing them can be a PITA as Ive discovered you've already slipped your rear footrest bolts.

My advice is to replace them with stainless steel bolts so rust is no longer a problem.

Originally Posted by Motolysis

There are no screws or bolts that go in these holes. They are located on the bottom side of the handlebar when it's mounted.

The handlebar switches slot into holes on the left and right so they dont twist. Bottom center is a drain hole.

Originally Posted by Motolysis

Is this repairable? If yes, then how?

It is not. Replace the tank. It should be around 2130Rs for a new one.

Originally Posted by Motolysis

It is normal petrol and not premium. Is it because it's old?
I did top-up fuel recently right before starting the tear-down as I wanted to get the bike started. (Failed to start.)

Ding ding, you got it right!

Originally Posted by Motolysis

Well, this isn't the only mistake that has been made till now. But this is the one that I am stuck with. So if anyone has any ideas on how to fix this, it would be of great help. I have tried vise grip pliers and torx bits, but nothing worked.

Get them removed at a lathe. Dont waste time on them.

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by Moose

3. Bike was serviced on Oct'23 and owner didn't hesitate in showing the bill too. I'll have to take it service centre to check the compression and clutch. Is there any alternate way to do that?

4. Definitely will take a test ride and I'll insist on a longer one too.

5. Off the top of your head, What can I expect to be replaced ? My guess is battery, chain and sprocket kit, swing arm and wheel bearing inspection and new tyres.

Compression check can be carried out at any garage that has some expertise in dealing with bikes above 300 cc. The average garage might or might not have is anyone's guess. A garage that services superbike and all the middle to upper middle segment is a best bet and I am sure these days lots of mom and pop garages are aplenty. Said and done, compression check will be done if one wishes to at your nearest KTM SVC and get an engine health report.

5. Off the top of your head, What can I expect to be replaced ? My guess is battery, chain and sprocket kit, swing arm and wheel bearing inspection and new tyres.

As much as your post is a perfect segue for Motolysis' post. The bike owing to having plastic and sensitive rubber seals throughout, even a keen eye can skimp over the basics. Externally, things can be easily spotted, now, if not later, rather sinister underlying issues will only rear its ugly head once the bike is dissected, which is not doable.

Visibly make sure the bolts and nuts your eyes can target aren't slipped and banged. Rest as I and Bhpains have pointed, as you inspect, new and surprising finds will pop up, good luck with that. Nothing to worry though! Take it easy during inspection and you'll get the best of the ideas -- when we hurry is when we skip over the rudimental checks.

Originally Posted by Motolysis

Hello,

I am currently in the process of completely tearing down my Gen 1 Duke 390, in order to learn more about how it works and acquire a few skills along the way. Since this is my very first post on TBHP, I couldn't ascertain from the rules whether this could be deemed enough to start a new thread hence I am going to start by asking my doubts here.

Although I am not an absolute noob when It comes to tinkering with machines, I have always been more of a do-it-to-learn kind of person and therefore I don't have too much knowledge of what-what is on a motorcycle and how what works. That being said, if the mods permit I would like to start a new thread to share the progress and learnings during this complete tear-down, clean-up and re-assembly.

For now, the following are questions I would be extremely grateful to have answers to, by the more experienced and knowledgeable members :

1. Most screws and bolts look like this

1.1 Should I simply replace these with new ones? Or is there a way to know if they are structurally compromised?
1.2 I read that dipping them in white vinegar and leaving them for 24 hours should help. Is there any harm in trying this?

2. Why does the handlebar have holes in it?

There are no screws or bolts that go in these holes. They are located on the bottom side of the handlebar when it's mounted.

3. Visible crack on the bottom of the fuel tank along with seepage

Is this repairable? If yes, then how?

4. Why is the fuel so red?

It is normal petrol and not premium. Is it because it's old?
I did top-up fuel recently right before starting the tear-down as I wanted to get the bike started. (Failed to start.)

5. A combination of losing patience and being stupid

Attachment 2594190

Well, this isn't the only mistake that has been made till now. But this is the one that I am stuck with. So if anyone has any ideas on how to fix this, it would be of great help. I have tried vise grip pliers and torx bits, but nothing worked.

Welcome aboard the club of miscreants. Jokes apart a stripped bolt/nut head is a nightmare to reckon with than a stripped thread. A stripped bolt head simply means overtorquing than necessary. Overtorquing not only does damage to the fastener, but also the element the fastener is torqued with. If you're starting your first DIY with a stripped thread bolt all-out throughout, you will never again touch any DIY job as it is demanding on the finer aspects of pain in the posterior.

Start off with replacing all the bolts at your FNG (Friendly Neighborhood Garage) get used to seeing the rudimentals of assembly and disassembly and get a knack of how to deal with handling challenging outcomes. It may seem easy for a mechanic and it feels even easier when we see -- it's only when we carry these procedures on-hand does all the swearing begins.

Take it easy, long story short. Take time in getting to know the bike. This bike deals with "A LOT" of plastics and rubber and each plastic/rubber part has a specific purpose, specific torque to be specc'd to which is a perfect segue to your final points.

The crack on the fuel tank, (bonus) for you, air filter lid cracks and air filter box flange cracks is the Duke's way of saying, welcome to adolescence.

Conundrum No.1 Shall I use these bolts?

You never use a bolt with a stripped head Period! irrespective of who mends it or if made of Adamantium. Once it's removed, it's destined to the bins and in comes the new one.

Conundrum No.2 Why does it have holes?
The holes on the visible parts of the handlebars are to lock the switchgear in place. The one below is usually to drain any trapped water as water can ingress between the switchgear screws and bar end weight screws.

Conundrum No.3 Cracks everywhere!
See Post Number 1

Conundrum No.4 It is normal petrol and not premium. Is it because it's old?
If I am not wrong, this is HP Power, it is blazingly red and tastes alcoholishly-sour -- unlike regular fuel. The fuel is red because of the additives it comes with. XP95 is close, but is much dark gold rather than pinkish red of Power. Power fuel does duty on my RX135 at times and the fuel filter turning red -- is a sight to behold.

A caveat to remember though, old, stale fuel will turn mildly black to sunset yellow which will resemble mild pink and will start to smell bad. This will corrode the fuel tank and cause rubber components to swell and fail -- in short, the bike would either simply refuse to start or start with much hesitation and let the user know of its dissatisfaction.

There you go!

Good luck to you!

Cheers!
VJ

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Since you were happy with the brakes before, you can get the MC rebuilt. A rebuild kit will cost, 180rs? since the 2013 MC is same as the pulsars you can get it at any bajaj showroom. You can try this first if you dont want to spend on a new MC.

Sunny I have drawn up a blank in trying to source this simple rebuild kit that is right for my Oct 2013 Gen 1 MC.

Can you share a link please (say from that spare parts online store you talk about) where I can get it from?

Many thanks in advance. Hoping to get it before Saturday. Fingers crossed.

Cheers, Doc

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Sunny I have drawn up a blank in trying to source this simple rebuild kit that is right for my Oct 2013 Gen 1 MC.

Can you share a link please (say from that spare parts online store you talk about) where I can get it from?

There is "13" on the underside of the black cylindrical barrel that comes out from the MC.

Sheri says Pulsar MCs (of that gen) were "12".

Or does 13 (inside a circle) refer to the manufacturing batch year?









Can you guy make out anything?

Cheers, Doc

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Sunny I have drawn up a blank in trying to source this simple rebuild kit that is right for my Oct 2013 Gen 1 MC.

Can you share a link please (say from that spare parts online store you talk about) where I can get it from?

Many thanks in advance. Hoping to get it before Saturday. Fingers crossed.

Cheers, Doc

Part Number is 36DH4048. You can order it from 99RPM or any local Bajaj spares shop if you give them the part number

https://www.99rpm.com/bajaj/brake-di...lsar-220s.html

That said, if the rebuild kit is 300rs + 100 shipping from 99RPM, Might as well get a new master cylinder for 750 more, IMHO. These were cheaper earlier around 150rs.

Originally Posted by ebonho

Or does 13 (inside a circle) refer to the manufacturing batch year?

This is correct

[unk9ja]

I had rebuilt the MC at Mekhri circle ASC long back, but it didn't last long enough. The brake assembly went for a toss during the Bhutan ride and so i got the adjustable lever from a MY17 Duke along with the sintered pads and the caliper assembly. It works very well and i am quite satisfied with the setup. The entire assembly cost me around 7k during 2018..

[b16h22]

Originally Posted by ebonho

There is "13" on the underside of the black cylindrical barrel that comes out from the MC.

Sheri says Pulsar MCs (of that gen) were "12".

Or does 13 (inside a circle) refer to the manufacturing batch year?

Can you guy make out anything?

Cheers, Doc

The assumption by the intl 390 forum members is that the number denotes the MC piston size. I guess it makes a lot of sense. The number on my Gixxer 250 Bybre MC is 12. It certainly can't be 2012 batch of manufacturing The bike is a 2021