[bradhey]

SRDESAI3 why not try going back to the previous version of ECU Map that
your bike originally had, and see if it helps...........!!

[anupkrverma]

Originally Posted by Rennjit

i really couldn't help doubting the accuracy of this measurement method, you might have been lucky to get proper alignment with a twig & marker pen. See the cam moves the wheel by ~1+0.5 mm max per notch, no better way to adjust. Now the wheel here is centered to swing arm which hopefully lines up with frame & front wheel; that is on the assumption that the swing arm is symmetric. Btw, what makes you think the swing arm is at fault?

I'm yet to come across a trusty method for wheel alignment so did similar but in a different scheme posted here.

I assume that in a perfect swingarm if the wheel is centered, ie ; on rotation the rim of the wheel is equidistant from the swingarm , the cam teeth should be equal. further more, the twitching that I used to experience at 60+ speed is gone and have tested even at speed 110+. The bike was rock stable. so I guess the wheel is now properly aligned to the front wheel and the chassis.
What else could be the problem though ??

[GreaseMonk]

Originally Posted by SRDESAI3

No i did not refer to the instability issue which is common with cl 5. i have about 4.5k on the odo and i meant the vibrations shuddering at high speeds which was nonexistent earlier. i could easily go upto 110 without even feeling it and the bike somehow felt rock solid. but now at 80 plus it starts to shudder making one wonder whether anymore power is left or otherwise. hope you get what i am trying to say. its not instability or fishtailing which is an inherent problem. but this shuddering has started after remapping only. please advise.

Hi SRDESAI3,

May I ask where you got the re-map done, when, and did they charge you for it?

Also, has it improved the low rpm throttle response (jerkiness, etc)?

[SRDESAI3]

Originally Posted by GreaseMonk

Hi SRDESAI3,

May I ask where you got the re-map done, when, and did they charge you for it?

Also, has it improved the low rpm throttle response (jerkiness, etc)?

REMAP was done at the RE dealer by the company engineer. didnt have the jerkiness issue after the change of sparks initially. so not much difference there. but yes the bike runs overall smoother. low RPM response is better in the sense that the power delivery is now bit more gradual as opposed to sudden burst of torque. thats improved in each gear i would say but this vibrating issue needs to be addressed. hope the engineer is still here else will just have to wait for him to come back..any advise by anyone in this regard?

[iron.head]

Got it on 4th January!

[bikham]

Getting my DS500 tomorrow so please tell what all should i check before taking the delivery.

[stnair]

Hi friends

Can anyone please tell me the NGK Iridium spark plug part number for Bullet UCE 350 ? The NGK website has a part finder but its confusing and they have given the part number of the smaller plug only. I want to know the part number of the bigger plug.

regards

san

[iron.head]

Originally Posted by bikham

Getting my DS500 tomorrow so please tell what all should i check before taking the delivery.

I have added a bit in point 1 however it might be a one off case. Here you go with the PDI list-

Originally Posted by Randhawa

Dont remember all of it but here you go PDI list;

1. Start with visually inspecting the whole bike- from bodywork to rims tyres- anything hanging, out of place, damaged, dented, rusting at the welding joints or repaired(transit damaged) painted parts like fuel tank, mudguard . Addition-you might want to get the seat removed and check the rear fender for scratches as mine had major paint peeled off at one point under the rear seat.

2. Check the front fork sleeves(which covers the forks top length) clearance between the front mudguard. If clearance is not equal between booth the sleeves and the mudguard then it will scuff and damage the paint work on mudguard/sleeves.

3. Check for all the electrical parts .e.g. headlight high/low beam- high beam pass, indicators, horns, brake light switch -front and rear, parking light, EStart. Also check the indication light in the speedo- neutral light, high beam and indicator.

4. Apply the front and rear brake to check out the effectiveness and any odd noise from front or rear brake while braking.

5. Check your tool kit if its complete or not.

6. Take the key and match the serial number on the key with the lock serial no of the rear LHS electrical/storage box. The no will be on the outside where you insert the key into the lock. Also check working of all the locks on the bike with same key.

7. Check the chain slack while sitting on centre stand and then off it. Should not be more then 1.5 inch while on the centre stand.

8. After starting the bike, check for any exhaust leaks at the head where the down pipe is attached and at the exhaust/down pipe joint. Also for any white smoke from the exhaust.

9. Check for any oil leaks from the engine-rocker covers, side covers- rear shock absorbers and front. Don't worry if you see a bit of oil under the RHS engine cover. It will be form the chain.

10. After engine has warmed up for a couple of minutes- the tick tick noise of the auto de-compressor should stop. Check the idling is stable and not erratic(jumping up/down). Starting should be smooth and not take more then one crank to start(not more the 3 seconds to start)

11. Take a ride on the bike and make sure you have a pillion rider as you need to see if you have rubbing issues of the rear tyre with the mudguard. Thats due to the bad alignment of the mudguard and sometimes of the rear tyre also.

12. While test riding, go through all the gears and brakes(F/R). Notice any abnormal noise or any hesitation in the engine response. Do check the exhaust for any white smoke or black while riding.

13. Check for any acid spill from the battery and the drain pipe from the battery is attached. First gen C5 use to come with exide batteries which had no drain pipe but new ones come with exide or FIemm batteries which have the drain pipe. Look for any spill damage on the engine cover under the battery

14. Check the accelerator cable- should not get stuck when turning left or right while on C stand. Check the choke cable for proper engagement and clutch cable is not too tight or too lose.

15. Check booth the springs present on the centre stand and engage the side stand. Should not take much effort to engage both the stands.

16. To check for any pre damage to the chassis front. Turn the handle bar left to right. It should turn equally to both the sides and not more or less at one side to other.

17. Handle should not be tight. To check this, lean the handle to one side wee bit and if it comes down fully then its fine. To check for loose handle, apply the front brake and rock the bike forward and backward. You will feel the play or noise if its too loose. You can also put it on C stand and while holding the handle firmly, ask you friend to grab the front forks and rock it forward / backward. Any play will be felt easily.

18. While on C stand, rotate the front wheel and check the run out of the tyre or at least any abnormal noise. Wheel should rotate freely and also check for front speedo is tight at the speedo hub and the speedo needle is moving smoothly .

19. To check the D.O.B of your bike, open up the LHS electrical box and you will find the green non- pollution sticker with the D.O.B on it. You can cross check the month with the chassis no.

20. By RE rule, your dealer should fill the fuel tank above reserve and the reserve light should go off. But most of the dealers steal the petrol money and give you only .5L(even less) to get you to the nearest petrol station. You can actually demand from him to fill up more then reserve as per company policy or else you should inform RE about it. After you fill her up, if the reserve light is still on then the fuel level indicator is faulty.


20. Accessories -

A) If you intent to ride solo without the rear seat then get the rear LHS guard(stay) changed to single pipe one.

B) Leg guard- as per your choice to what is available at your dealer.

c) Horns- You wont need changing as I feel the twin setup is awesome.

d) Alloys - If you want to kill the looks of a classic but each to its own..

e) RE embossed leather tool kit bag and side bags if you like them.

f) Bike cover- You can get one if you intent to ride your bike quite less. Cant use it when the bike is hot which it stays for hours at a stretch and not water proof. Has minimal dust protection.

G) Upswept exhaust - if you fancy the looks and heavier thump. It's attached to the down pipe and does not come with free flow down pipe anymore so you wont harm the engine during running in period.

H) Indicator shades- I personally dont like them but some do. Just like the one on the front head light.

[Invader]

Hi Guys,

Are there any good puncture resistant tyres / tubes available in the market which fit the Classic 500?

Is it advisible to fit the Honda Unicorn Tuff-Up tube in the Classic 500? even though the tyre sizes are different?

Anyother proven suggestions?

Please advise; Thanks

[bikham]

My New Beast







Checked everything in the checklist provided by iron.head everything seems okay.Had to change both handlebar and seat not good at all..

[Anand123]

Here's a pic of the Classic 500

[ruchirtnt]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

Got the new chain guard and a RR unit cover plate meant only for export C5. Have to improvise to fit the number plate.

Hi randhawa, Where can i get this RR unit cover, is it available in desert storm color?
and can somebody help me to get the original RE "Made like a gun" sticker and a left hand stay for desert storm model.

[bikham]

Where can i get good single seat for Classic 500.The original seat is very not good at all

[ruchirtnt]

Originally Posted by bikham

Where can i get good single seat for Classic 500.The original seat is very not good at all

You can get with the RE service station and ask them to do some "Jugad" to fit electra seat, I am sure they will help you out with something or the other

[bharathgana]

Hi,

Eagerly awaiting the delivery of my new RE Classic 500, the wait has been an anxious and painful 7 months now(Chennai lead time, as I have been told off ).

Got the PO from CSD Chennai ( Rs 1.2 lakh odd) and got the other payments Rs. 14k odd (Tax, RTO, Insurance) done at the dealer at Besant Nagar outlet. I have been promised a delivery within the next 20 days. The wait gets all the more painful now.

I was hoping to hear from the experienced lot that we have on this thread and forum on 'Running In' Dos and Don't s as I plan for a long distance ride on my soon to be acquired beauty. The deal being I might have to travel abroad for a few months and wanted to leave the bike with my brother for safe keeping.

The distance to be covered will be approx 350 kms. Ride out early in the morning, steady 50~60 kmph with short 80 kmph stints, 15 min breaks after every hour of ride.

Hope this will not have any serious long term implications on the bike i.e. poor 'running in' leading to a lemon!

Appreciate pointers and guidance from fellow Bull riders.