[ArizonaJim]

Hopefully I'm not stealing his thunder but I thought you people who are interested in the new Fuel Injected 500cc UCE models would like to know that one of the members of the U.S. Royal Enfield forum announced that his 2009 G5 (basically an Electra with a O2 sensor) has just reached 20,000 miles on the odometer.
That's roughly 32,260km.

The only mechanical items he has replaced are the battery, the chain and the tyres.

[nasirkaka]

Hopefully I'm not stealing his thunder but I thought you people who are interested in the new Fuel Injected 500cc UCE models would like to know that one of the members of the U.S. Royal Enfield forum announced that his 2009 G5 (basically an Electra with a O2 sensor) has just reached 20,000 miles on the odometer.
That's roughly 32,260km.

The only mechanical items he has replaced are the battery, the chain and the tyres.

Nice to hear about a trouble free RE product.

A few things that comes to mind are:
1. Does RE discriminate between the local and export market? Better parts like Avon tyres/ sealed batteries / better plastics / connectors / switches etc are a few of the heard ones. I have a feeling that there could be many more.

2. The presence of O2 sensor strengthens the importance of it for trouble free operation in long run. Or the lack of it on Indian models leading to countless plug upgrades, maps and remaps and the likes.

3. Am sure the quality difference in fuel between the US and India would have some role to play. Also the road quality to a minor extent

[Puneet.S]

Originally Posted by Puneet.S

Hmm, it seems to be coming from right side, will check again in the morning and update.

The whirring sound is more obvious towards the right side, and is present even when the bike is stationary (with engine running), but its not there at idle rpms - its most audible only when i rev the engine slightly. I think the auto chain tensioner would come into play only when the bike is moving?

[adrian]

@ puneet.s :The primary chain starts moving once the engine is started. In older cars like the Ambassador Diesel models the fuel pump would produced a hum when revved up. Anything akin to that ?
Regards Adrian

[iron.head]

Originally Posted by Puneet.S

The whirring sound is more obvious towards the right side, and is present even when the bike is stationary (with engine running), but its not there at idle rpms - its most audible only when i rev the engine slightly. I think the auto chain tensioner would come into play only when the bike is moving?

Get your auto chain tensioner checked. This sound is surely because of the auto chain tensioner.

[Puneet.S]

Originally Posted by iron.head

Get your auto chain tensioner checked. This sound is surely because of the auto chain tensioner.

Ok, will get the bike checked by a competent mechanic soon and update.

[iron.head]

Originally Posted by Puneet.S

Ok, will get the bike checked by a competent mechanic soon and update.

In this picture there is a small latch which touches the pin of the chain tensioner which has grooves on it. Now if you have to push the pin down in the chain tensioner, you have to pull that little latch backward to push the pin down and if you dont pull the latch backward then the pin will not go down. Thats if the chain tensioner is working fine.



In this picture of the chain tensioner installed in the engine case, if the pin can be pushed down by forcing that black pad under the chain without touching anything at the back of the chain tensioner pin then chain tensioner is dead.

[cogentr]

My rides are restricted to the weekends and last couple of weeks haven't been able to ride enough to keep the battery happy and had to kick start, not sure how much ride is required to charge the battery back up, also evening rides mean the headlights are in use, so not enough juice is going to the battery. So I am considering an alternate charger like

Battery Tender Junior 12V @ 0.75A - Motorcycle - Batterytender.com

or the likes. Has anyone used anything like this before, any recommendations, anything that I should be concerned about wrt CL500 battery type.

[GreaseMonk]

Originally Posted by cogentr

My rides are restricted to the weekends and last couple of weeks haven't been able to ride enough to keep the battery happy and had to kick start, not sure how much ride is required to charge the battery back up, also evening rides mean the headlights are in use, so not enough juice is going to the battery. So I am considering an alternate charger like

Battery Tender Junior 12V @ 0.75A - Motorcycle - Batterytender.com

or the likes. Has anyone used anything like this before, any recommendations, anything that I should be concerned about wrt CL500 battery type.

I have the Battery Tender Plus (Battery Tender Plus - Batterytender.com) and it charges a completely dead battery within 20 hours. If you're going for the 0.75 A version, it may take longer. I believe there are some other benefits of going for the Plus over the Junior, but I cannot recall these. The information will definitely be on the site and their documentation is very interesting.

Definitely recommend picking a Battery Tender up. I got a pretty good deal on eBay Global Easy Buy where after customs and shipping from the states came up to the same price as listed on the Battery Tender website.

However, I would recommend that you get an international version that runs off 220/240 Volts as having to get a 110/220 transformer and lug it around with the battery tender is annoying when you have a product available that doesn't require it.

[hexanerax]

Originally Posted by classic86

Guys! I'm having some battery/self start issues. I need some professional help.

At first, the MIL light was glowing intermittently while starting the engine. Hence, told RE service guys to do a dry charging. After the service, the guy told everything is okay. But in two days, the issue started again. However, the MIL light was glowing only during the 1st start. Now, decided to get the battery checked at Exide service centre. The guy said battery is little problematic (forgot the technical word he used-probably something related to damaged valves/bushes or something). After getting the battery charged, now the neutral light is not glowing, electric start is not working. I'm using the kick rod to get the bike started. My only doubt is that the battery, self start were working before taking it to the exide service centre. Wonder what happened there!

So, is getting a new battery the only solution or is there a new problem? If a new battery is the solution, which one should I get?

Check for corrosion in the battery terminals. The +ve is specially susceptible to sulphating. Remove the bolts and clean with emery and refit, covering the terminals with vaseline.also check the fuses for corrosion. Brass + electricity + water is not good for electrical contacts. Listen for the sound of the Fuel pump relay when you power up the ignition ( LHS glove box ) also check if the starter relay engages with a click when you thumb the start button ( under the seat near the battery ) If that is not actuating, you could have a bead relay. The neutral indicator is connected to the gearbox. There is a slim connector between the battery and the frame. It may have been pulled off during service and not reattached.
Regards
Naren

[devarshi84]

What precautions do you take to keep your C5 cool?

In the cool March season of this year, my C5 was hot enough for me to feel the warmth even through the denims. I suspect this would increase in the summers especially since summers in Ahmedabad go as high as 46 at times.

I am intending to go for a high grade synthetic. What else is possible apart from things like parking in the shade and other such stuff?

[si1ver0ne]

Yesterday, I opened up the fuel cap of my Maroon RE C500 to refill and just after the refill was completely shocked to find a piece of the Maroon Paint fallen on the inside of the fuel tank Just dipped my finger in and it indeed was a piece of the maroon paint from the inside of the fuel tank where the cap locks in place. Just ran my finger around and was further shocked to see the paint around that area lifting up like a plastic sticker

Have any of you experience this issue with the paint? What if some of these paint fragments have entered the fuel tank, does this have any potential issues? Please help!

[adrian]

Originally Posted by devarshi84

What precautions do you take to keep your C5 cool?

In the cool March season of this year, my C5 was hot enough for me to feel the warmth even through the denims. I suspect this would increase in the summers especially since summers in Ahmedabad go as high as 46 at times.

I am intending to go for a high grade synthetic. What else is possible apart from things like parking in the shade and other such stuff?

1. Frequently clean the cooling fins of the engine.
2. Ensure that the engine has correct oil level.
3. Avoid congested routes.
4. Avoid very high rpms.
5. Ride with gas well above the half tank mark ( In carbed version Bullets, there arises a temporary lean situation when the bike's main supply is about to be depleated, ie just before entering the reserve.) As for the C5 with fuel injection, this is not a problem, but would help in loss of fuel by evaporation. The more the tank is filled up, the more beneficial.
6. Check for signs of overheating.

Once after riding in the middle of a hot day, I checked the engine temperature after placing a laboratory thermometer between the engine cooling fins - It showed 95 degree c. Can anybody comment on the optimum engine temperature of the UCEs ?

Regards Adrian

[ArizonaJim]

I don't know what the UCE optimum temperature requirements are but I think a piston aircraft engine with an aluminum cylinder head would be similar.

These aircraft engines can easily run a cylinder head temperature of 250 to 350 degrees F (121-177 degrees C). They are usually limited to cylinder head temperatures of 450 degrees F (232 C).

At temperatures of over 450 degrees F. the aluminum head starts loosing a considerable amount of its strength and the lubricating oil will start coking (turning to hard carbon).

As for my G5 UCE powered RE much of its break in was done in temperatures of 105-113 degrees F (40.6-45 degrees C) air temperatures with a moderate amount of stop and go traffic. No harmful effects have been noted.

IMO, as long as the engine temperature doesn't exceed the temperatures noted above for aircraft engines it should be fine.

The fuel injected Royal Enfields place their fuel pumps inside the fuel tank and it uses the fuel as a coolant and lubricant.
This makes it very important to keep at least 1/3 of a tank of fuel in the bike.
As I understand it, the reason for the glowing fuel level warning light on these bikes is as much to assure that the pump will have adequate cooling and lubrication as it is for warning the rider that he/she needs to fill up the tank.

While mentioning fuel, there is a filter on the fuel pick up tube to prevent things like dirt and paint chips from getting into the pump and fuel injector.

While having chips of paint come loose in the fuel tank is disconcerting it isn't a show stopper so if this happens, just ride on and have fun.

[Invader]

Hi Guys,

Need your help again!!

I have clocked 2500 Kms on my 2012 DS; as advised in the Owners manual, I always electric-start the bike only after the clucth is depressed (always in neutral). Since yesterday onwards the electric-start is not responding if I am depressing the clucth; however it works just fine without the clutch.

I would invariable take the bike to a service station in a few weeks for my 3K service. I wish to understand what has changed? Do i need to fix something urgently?

With regard to engine overheating, I believe it is normal (provided one checks all the pointers stated above)..I really wished this bike has an aluminium snug-fit mini-radiator / liquid-cooled unit.

Thanks