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I have a 2016 Ecosport Diesel model which has done approx. 82k in 6 years. Off late i am experiencing thud type coming from front side of the car which is very prominent on bad or rough roads. The ride has also become quite stiff. SC has advised for suspension overhaul with an estimate of 25 to 30K. My car is still under extended warranty which expires next month. Additional one year extended warranty is offered to me worth 18k. I am thinking of not availing the extended warranty and use the money on suspension overhaul. But isn't it too early for suspension overhaul? If yes then what is the cost involved?

I have a 2018 Race Red Titanium Diesel Ecosport. I have done almost 1,40,000 km With it.
I had the following issues with the car. Though all were minor, the car didn't feel as nice to drive.
1. Clutch was getting really hard to press. Start off was jerky.
2. Noise from front right suspension while going over small bumps, also felt crashy.
3. Noise from the steering at the extreme ends of rotation.
4. Rattling noise from engine bay at idling, the service advisor attributed it to a worn out radiator bush(.. Or was it a mount?)

Following jobs were carried out at the 1,40,000 service.
1. Clutch and Flywheel replacement
2. Front shock absorber replacement
3. Steering rack replacement
4. Turbocharger replacement
5. Radiator mount (.. or was it a bush?) replacement
6. General Service

Steering rack and Turbo were replaced under warranty. I had opted for extended warranty till 5 Year/1,50,000 km.
For the rest I paid ₹28500 which sounds quite reasonable to me.

Also got the tyres replaced. I had Continental UC6 in 205/60 R16, the stock size, had done over 59000 km with them, still had about 6-8000 km left in them but they were feeling not as cushioning now and got 3-4 punctures in the last 2 months so I thought might as well do it now. This time i went for UC6 again but bumped up the size to 215/60 R16. Paid ₹34000 for them, wheel balancing, alignment and new valves were included in the above price.

The car now feels as good as new to drive. It's incredibly stable and quiet to drive. Steering has a slightly more weighted feel to it which i like.
All in all this service has restored the car to 100% health and i don't see any major issues/ expenses for at least another 1,00,000 km.

The cost seems reasonable considering the volume of work. I will have an estimate from service center before the warranty expires.

Hello All,

I have the ECOSPORT-TITANIUM 1.5 TI-VCT AT 2017 model. There is a big gap between the back tray and the rear seats. This gap is huge and anything kept in the tray with slight braking or bump invariably falls down in the trunk space.

I remember this issue was discussed earlier, didn't drive the car from 2020 too much, and only now when I had a long drive realized how big an inconvenience that is.

Any suggestions on how to plug this gap, the only way I could find is to incline the rear seats all the way down which isn't a comfortable posture for anyone sitting in the rear sets.

Thanks

Since the service was recently done, the leak could be from the oil filter or drain bolt. I would advise you to visit the service center to have it checked. Until then, keep an eye on the engine oil level.

Could you share some pictures of your car? I am just curious to see how well it's holding up after 1 lakh km.

Apologies for the extremely crappy pics. The car is in a cramped parking hence the weird angles. But the paint looked good to me with the beading (it's drizzling here). Cosmetically its flawless.

@drakash- Have you replaced the timing belt kit since it's supposed to be changed at 1 lakh kms?
If yes, can you please share the bill details?
Thanks in advance.

My Ecosport horn failed early in the ownership, car was around a year old. I replaced them with a Roots trumpet set that had a german sound, never had an issue since.

Try replacing the nozzles first as they are the cheapest part to replace, costing under 200 on boodmo.com. They get clogged with debris sometimes. If that doesn't work, then you have to get it attended to by the ASC.

I had an issue and it turned out to be a worn out bush on the metal AC pipe that runs from the condenser to the compressor. The bush can be seen near the radiator. If there is play there, it causes this rattling. Replacing the bush fixed the issue for me.

This has happened to my uncle in his M800 after he gave it for service. The service guys rotated the tyres, but forgot to tighten the nuts on all wheels with spanner. Fortunately, he detected the wobbling in time and found the issue and danger was averted. Did you have any wheel related work done before this happened?

Another possible explanation is attempted tyre/wheel theft. The thieves were probably interrupted before they could steal the wheels. There is no way a properly torqued wheel nut could come loose on its own. Be careful where you park.

The issue with the horn is also there in my Aspire. It sometimes works as normal and sometimes goes back to sounding weak and meek which i presumed was one of the double horn's conking off.

It usually happens every year in monsoons and rarely any other time of the year.

Hi all,

I have been using the DDPai Mola N3 Pro in my Ecosport since August. I have it connected to a power adapter into the 12V charging socket. Every time I switch off the car I have to remove the adapter because the socket is an 'always ON' design. (due to keyless start, I believe)
I purchased the hardwiring kit from nexdigitron's website last week and I am looking to get it installed in my car now. I need suggestions on the following -

1. Which fuse should I get it tapped into? I looked at the fuse box diagram and couldn't find an accessory mode fuse. Anyone here who has hardwired the dashcam in their Ecosport yet? I don't want the parking monitoring function, just need it to be ON while the car is ON.

2. Recommendations for an installer in Hosur/Bengaluru who knows their stuff around this and would do a nice & clean job?

Facelifted EcoSport (2017 onwards) don't have powered sockets. In my 2018 model I have the dashcams connected to the front USB port and rear 12v socket, they get active only when car is in accessory mode or the engine is running.
Anyway these guides (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-...ml#post5093682) or (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-d...r-dashcam.html) should help you with selecting the correct fuse socket for hardwiring. There could be more related posts if you search the forum.

These are two preferred accessories shops (for dashcam installation and accessories) that BLR EcoSport owners visit and vouch for:
1. Smart Kars, Rajajinagar - Location
2. Smart Car Decor, KR Puram - Location

Note: I haven't visited them personally, just recommending based on good feedback from other fellow owners.

I actually have the pre-facelift 2017 Ecosport (mfg in April), and have noticed that the 12v socket remains ON even if the car is completely OFF. Got suggested on another thread that could tap it into the power windows/wiper motor fuse also, since they only come ON when the car is in ACC mode.
The linked post always provides a clear solution, thank you.
Also thanks for the installer recommendation, will consider one of these.

I power my dashcam from the music usb port which switch on and off along with the car. The 12V continuous power mode is pretty useful if you want to top off the phone or electronics in a parked car.

With no Ford Ecosports in India, there's no new Ecosports being sold in Nepal too. Ecosports was a very popular model here and sold in better numbers than Brezza. Last weekend, we had some fun by doing mild off roading with two Ecosports that we took to a place called Upardang gadhi. It's at an altitude of 1275m. We climbed more than 1000m in less than 7km of distance on a dirt track.

https://youtu.be/JlCcXu0QNuk