[rvivek7]

Originally Posted by akhil chandu

using sony xav8100 with dedicated frame for city. So far no issues till date. The sound quality is much better compared to the stock system. Comes with apple carplay and android auto, although wired. The stock camera can be activated with an adapter which costs 3000 approx. I’ve gone for dhc AHD camera which just costs half of the adapter and far better in terms of clarity, especially at night. Btw there’s no option for front camera in the system. So far happy with the purchase

Hey, I’m planning to upgrade too for my city (4th gen). Did you do it by any chance jn Hyderabad? If so, any recommendations on places where we can expect a neat installation?

[akhil chandu]

Originally Posted by rvivek7

Hey, I’m planning to upgrade too for my city (4th gen). Did you do it by any chance jn Hyderabad? If so, any recommendations on places where we can expect a neat installation?

I’ve got the work done at SOLARSHADE, minister road. I’d highly recommend them. They’re apparently the distributor for Sony and even have the vehicle specific frames for most of the vehicles. None of the others have the frame for city in stock. Even fitting wise you can trust them as they’ve done many installations in Honda city. There’s one technician called nayim, he’s a specialist in this work. Basically there appears to be a gap after fitting the frame, so he has come up with a solution by adding an additional bracket to the frame to reduce the gap. He also added foam tape around the frame to prevent rattles. No issues so far. Hope this helps

[rvivek7]

Thanks! Will try out the place. How much time did they take overall?
And how much did they charge for frame+installation for you?
And did the OEM steering controls work for the upgraded system you installed too?

[for_cars1]

Originally Posted by SilverSurferHC

.....

I wanted to check if the Diesel engine needs servicing twice or once a year should do. Honda has been insisting this and other than one service in COVID , I have been following a regular.

Considering all new Honda Cars need just one visit, how logical is this requirement?

The prescribed service interval is 10K KM or 6 months for the iDTec. During the pre-pandemic years, I used to average about 16K KM per year, so it made sense for 2 services per year.
However, during the last 4 years, the yearly average has been less than 10K KM, so I've been servicing it once a year. Every year, the service advisor asks the routine question "sir any issues?" and my answer during the last 9+ years has always been "none, just do regular service" (touch wood!) What has always amazed me in the Honda is that everything just works the way its supposed to reliably. I also tend to keep the cars stock with zero alterations, but thats not been the case (all things working at all times) with the other cars.

Also after the 4th year, the RSA and warranty ran out, decided not to renew it and its been almost 6 years post warranty now.
The only stuff changed apart from consumables have been clutch kit at about 1 lac (no slippage but hard so preventive change) brake disks at 60K KM, brake pads at about 30 to 40K KM and 2 times tyre change at 30K (OEM MRF junk puncture prone) and 90K KM (Michelin XM2 great FE low rolling resistance and squealy at cornering/braking at higher speeds) and now Conti UC6 (good balance of grip and decent FE)

Sad that the iDTec is phased out, its a gem of an engine with good combination of power and efficiency.
Surprisingly, I've observed the average FE drops to 17kmpl in city driving when filled at IOC pumps and with BPCL pumps the average FE in city drives is back to 19kmpl. Regular diesel in both pumps. Strange they don't make cars anymore such as the iDTec with 26kmpl FE (at 70 to 80kmph and 1500 rpm) like they used to for the Indian market.

[akhil chandu]

Originally Posted by rvivek7

Thanks! Will try out the place. How much time did they take overall?
And how much did they charge for frame+installation for you?
And did the OEM steering controls work for the upgraded system you installed too?

It’ll take around 2 hrs, if not more depending on crowd. The system costed around 32k but the frame perse is costly around 4k. All the OEM steering controls work, and 1 usb slot can be activated with the help of a connector. The 2nd one doesn’t work as the system supports only 1 usb connection.

[greenhorn]

Discovered the battery in my Honda connect about to blow up.
Any idea where I can get this replaced?
Local electronics shops in my city were not able to source a matching replacement

[Dhananjay_Desai]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

Discovered the battery in my Honda connect about to blow up.
Any idea where I can get this replaced?
Local electronics shops in my city were not able to source a matching replacement

Attachment 2550762

How did you identify this issue? Did you check with Honda guys on the price of a new TCU by any chance?

[greenhorn]

It was bought second hand and I was not even aware it was existed. I was troubleshooting some audio related issues when I came across it sitting on the obd port. Took it apart to find out what it was - and if my dad in law is under some very high tech surveillance. Turned out it was a minda iconnect device and bhpian hserus told me that's a device sold as a Honda OEM service. looks like the bulging issue is not new. The outside case had come apart and somebody has wrapped it together with insulation tape. Since the car was serviced exclusively at Honda, I'm sure they are already aware but have chosen to ignore it.

Anyway another bhpian pointed me to this website
https://www.carot.com/contactUs

Looks like that's what iconnect is called these days. Have reached out to them.

[outdoorlover]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

Discovered the battery in my Honda connect about to blow up.
Any idea where I can get this replaced?
Local electronics shops in my city were not able to source a matching replacement

Attachment 2550762

Hi, this device is made by Minda and supplied as an aftermarket accesory through Honda. You can check with them directly for replacement battery,

[themonster]

Hello Everyone,

I am a long-time lurker here and have not posted in ages.
Just wanted to update regarding my Honda City 2014 Model, manual VX petrol i-VTEC (top end at that time)
I got my car from the first batch of petrol Citys in March 2014, it's almost 10 years and I have clocked a little over 2,30,000kms.

Major Points:

• The engine still runs smoothly. I would say, maybe power may have reduced by ~10%.
• The Stock Battery was changed within the first 2 years of ownership. Was Amaron and put a 4-year warranty Amaron battery.
• The Stock tyres/tires, Goodyears were changed a little over 31,000kms to Bridgestone Turanza AR60 195/60 R15. (Will post more about tyres in the 4th gen City Tyre thread, as I am on my 4th set of tyres now)
• ABS Module issue cropped up at 1,05,000kms around 2017-2018 (3 years of ownership). Since the car was out of extended warranty and at the time, Honda did not offer Anytime warranty for cars over 1,00,000kms. Paid from my pocket, later on found out this was a common issue in the first batch of 2014 Citys (both petrol and diesel)
• There was a ringing noise in the engine bay from the start of ownership, it was posted by many members at the time. It was resolved after the change of the Alternator Belt (Serpentine Belt) along with the Auto pretensioner pulley. Done around 1,15,000kms.
• The 2nd battery lasted for exactly 4 years, and died about a month or two post the warranty, in 2019. This happened at night, around 8 pm and everything was closed except for the SF-Sonic dealer (now SF Batteries, blue colour). The Team-BHP SF-Sonic factory visit report (Link) (PICS: SF Sonic Battery Factory. Detailed report on the making of a Car Battery) had just come around that time, so went with it.
• The Changed Clutch plate around 1,55,000kms. The car’s mileage had dropped significantly, and power had reduced.

Apart from tyres and batteries, all the above were done at Honda ASC.

• Got the Steering rack rebuilt and not replaced around 1,62,000kms.
• Changed Suspension (shocks and springs) at around 1,75,000kms. While the ride on good roads was alright, it was terrible on concrete and rough roads. The car’s ground clearance had reduced too. Everything was sorted after the suspension change.
• The SF-Sonic battery had a failed cell, just one month shy of the 2-year warranty expiring. Had gotten the battery replaced under Warranty. This was in 2021. This battery is on its last legs now (end of 2023), and will most probably require a change in the coming months.
• Around 1,95,000kms, the car had a constant jerk while accelerating, felt in all gears after driving for about 30-50kms, especially felt in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears. Was diagnosed to be a faulty ignition coil. 2 of the coils were bad, but decided to change all 4 with spark plugs. (Honda ASC charges about 6000rs each, and my FNG charged me 2000rs each).
• Around the 2,00,000kms mark, there was a check engine light. No change in engine power or performance was felt and even mileage was intact. The Green ECO rings around the instrument cluster remained Blue, that’s all. Worst of all, it used to come and go. Diagnostics revealed a P0420 error code, which stands for low catalytic converter efficiency. Honda ASC charges about 12000-15000rs for the part and my FNG told me it would be 3500rs. I was planning to change the part but got held up with other things in life. Saw a ChrisFix video one day; figured I had a multimeter with me, and just had to buy a WD40 sensor cleaner. Tried it and voila, it was fixed!

(Link)

• Around 2,15,000kms, there was a perceivable difference in the way the engine ran, it was rough, power build-up took time and it just didn’t feel right. Gave my car to another FNG, and they changed the timing chain and clutch plate, after which the car was back to normal.
• The driveshaft boot had been replaced multiple times, mostly from outside, as the Honda ASC had told me they replaced the boot along with the drive shaft for the affected side. For reference, the driveshaft is close to Rs.15,000/- for one side, while just a change in the boot is around 2000-3000 including labour.
• There are multiple drain ports for water around the car. The ports in the door, which are towards the bottom front, usually get blocked with dirt/mud. This leads to the accumulation of water in the door sills, which can overflow into the cabin. Another point of water entry into the car is the sunroof drain ports, which can get blocked with the silicon lubricant and dirt mixture. One would have to manually clean the drain using a nylon wire with/without soap and water. The water can soak the headliner, followed by the cabin floor.
• I did use a K&N filter for some time (for reference part no. 33-3030). While the drivability had improved, the car needed much more frequent oil changes and the throttle body got gunked up with oil/dirt mixture. Also, it is time-consuming to clean the filter.
• Also, I did get the front leather seats redone around the 1,75,000kms mark. My build is on the heavier side and that could be seen on the seats.
• I got the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder serviced at around 2,25,000kms. The clutch pedal used to get hard after driving 50 or more kms, especially in the ghats with the frequent gear changes. My left knee used to hurt.
• I have not included the numerous engine oil changes, manual transmission fluid changes, brake pad changes, and other items of wear and tear.

At present, the car is running fine as I enter into the 10th year of ownership; but I am looking for a replacement, as my monthly running is on the higher side and older folk in the family are having difficulties getting in and out. At present looking at either the Hycross/Invicto twins in their hybrid systems or an electric car such as the BYD Atto 3, but these are thoughts for another thread.

Thank you for your time, and wishing everyone a Happy New Year 2024!

[SMSP]

Team BHP,
Happy new year 2024 to the team!
Recently the security system in my Honda City 2017 ZX CVT stopped working ( the red blinking light on the speedometer console has stopped showing when car is locked) and not sure why it happened. I have to use valet parking in my office and maybe some valet has messed up the setting I guess. Appreciate if anyone can let me know how to reset the security system in the car and tips to prevent such things happening in the future

[outdoorlover]

Originally Posted by for_cars1

Surprisingly, I've observed the average FE drops to 17kmpl in city driving when filled at IOC pumps and with BPCL pumps the average FE in city drives is back to 19kmpl. Regular diesel in both pumps.

I own a VX CVT Petrol model, same vintage as yours March 2014 My observation is also that I am getting lower mileage when I fuel up at IOCL when compared to HPCL/ BPCL outlets in Bangalore and this could be due to the higher ethanol mix in IOCL bunks which impacts older BS4 engines more. Have stopped fuelling at IOCL completely now.

[SMSP]

Originally Posted by SMSP

Team BHP,
Happy new year 2024 to the team!
Recently the security system in my Honda City 2017 ZX CVT stopped working ( the red blinking light on the speedometer console has stopped showing when car is locked) and not sure why it happened. I have to use valet parking in my office and maybe some valet has messed up the setting I guess. Appreciate if anyone can let me know how to reset the security system in the car and tips to prevent such things happening in the future

Found the resolution today! Looks like I have accidentally pressed the bonnet open button while opening the petrol tank lid open button for filling petrol and then forgot to notice the partially open bonnet:
Today I noticed the same and closed the bonnet and bingo the security system started working
Not sure if this is a glitch in the Honda city security system

[HondaSport]

Folks, I have a Honda City Petrol with a 1.5L iVTEC petrol engine.
Its undergone a remap recently and am happy with the improved low end torque

However I am keen to explore modifications that can improve low end driveability further. I have been reading up on after market air filters & a bit on cold air intake as well as free flow exhausts.

Any suggestions on which is the way to go as well as what it will cost, I know K&N filter will cost around 7.5k INR but not sure about the cost of other mods.

Are there any other options available to improve performance?

[sasmit]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

Discovered the battery in my Honda connect about to blow up.
Any idea where I can get this replaced?
Local electronics shops in my city were not able to source a matching replacement

Attachment 2550762

This looks like a 1s Lipo cell, used in many small rc models . You can easily get one off many robotics websites. It looks like it even uses the same JST connector.
Here’s one https://robu.in/product/400mah-pcm-p...xoCiwAQAvD_BwE