[PrasannaDhana]

Originally Posted by Praneeth

Did end up getting the Altroz XZ+ Dark diesel. And it has already run 400 kms in two days. However already facing three issues.

1. Cruise control not engaging. When i press the cruise button It shows cruise ---kms. The speed is not being displayed. And it wont engage cruise control. Spoke to the showroom guys, and immediately they are asking me to bring the car to the showroom.

2. ACC when turned on keeps blasting the AC at the highest setting all the time even when the temperature is set at 26-27 degrees. It just doesn't settle down. Needs to manually turn down the fan speed which makes ACC redundant.

Hi Congratulations!!

1. You will have to be above suitable threshold speeds in each gear to be able to engage cruise

Ex. Above 30 kmph in 3rd, 40 kmph in 4th and above 60 kmph in 5th.

After that, you need to press + on the steering controls and then you can select speeds in increments of 2 kmph.

2. ACC will go to max until the car gets to the set temperature and then stabilizes

[rd18]

Originally Posted by Praneeth

Did end up getting the Altroz XZ+ Dark diesel. And it has already run 400 kms in two days. However already facing three issues.

Need to visit the showroom soon to get these issues sorted.

Think your questions are already answered now. Just use the PLUS button(+) to engage cruise control after attaining desired speed at suitable gear. The first press is like “ready for cruising’. Think it’s two button operation due to safety.

Auto Climate Control always start like that. I don’t use it much.

Please take time to read through the owners manual. You will anyway need to visit service center for first service soon(1000km-2000km or 2 months).

You will notice the run-in period for long engine life. Congrats.

[Praneeth]

Originally Posted by rd18

Think your questions are already answered now. Just use the PLUS button(+) to engage cruise control after attaining desired speed at suitable gear. The first press is like “ready for cruising’. Think it’s two button operation due to safety.

I was unable to engage cruise even when I’m at the desired speed.

Finally gave up and went to the showroom. And the technician during the test drive was unable to engage the cruise.

The green cruise symbol is showing up, however we were unable to set the desired cruise speed with plus or minus symbols.

Finally the technician found the issue. He took me on a test drive and showed that cruise is engaging if the clutch pedal is slightly depressed.

When the clutch pedal is released, it is disengaging the cruise. Quite opposite to how it is supposed to work.

Now the service head is on leave and they want me to leave the car in the showroom to diagnose and sort out the issue.

This car was delivered just four days ago and looking at these problems really makes me regret my decision.

[DicKy]

Originally Posted by Praneeth

Finally the technician found the issue. He took me on a test drive and showed that cruise is engaging if the clutch pedal is slightly depressed....When the clutch pedal is released, it is disengaging the cruise. Quite opposite to how it is supposed to work.

Something like this would make me wary of using the cruise control ever in the car!!!

Using the cruise control on our roads is itself subject to various factors, add onto that cruise control not working as desired.

[AutoYogi]

Originally Posted by Praneeth

Did end up getting the Altroz XZ+ Dark diesel. And it has already run 400 kms in two days. However already facing three issues.

1. Cruise control not engaging. When i press the cruise button It shows cruise ---kms. The speed is not being displayed. And it wont engage cruise control. Spoke to the showroom guys, and immediately they are asking me to bring the car to the showroom.

2. ACC when turned on keeps blasting the AC at the highest setting all the time even when the temperature is set at 26-27 degrees. It just doesn't settle down. Needs to manually turn down the fan speed which makes ACC redundant.

3. When hitting potholes there is a sharp metal sound from right front side. It doesn't occur often.

Other than this, The car itself is great. Its comfortable, spacious, well kitted and has decent performance with great milage. Tata really needs to look at the finer points when charging premium for cars.

I really hope i wont regret this purchase. *Fingers crossed*.
Need to visit the showroom soon to get these issues sorted.

Firstly, I would like to congratulate you on your new car purchase. You have chosen one of the best cars in its segment so a big
Now coming to the issues
1)Ask the TASS guys to plug in their laptop to the OBD port and check cruise control module signal (activated or de-activated). If it is deactivated then check for loose coupler at the cruise control module on steering wheel.

2)I hope you aren't facing the same issue that I faced wherein, the temperature and blower both would be constant in-spite of changes done to AC temperature. To check if auto AC is working fine or not, start the car under a shade/ at night (very important to avoid under direct sun) and switch on the AC and set the AC at its lowest temperature with the AC in auto mode (very important) and wait for 10 mins with AC in lowest temperature and Auto mode. After 10 minutes start increasing the temperature by 1 degree for every 2 seconds and you should increase it till 30 degree centigrade and you should see the blower speed reducing as you increase the temperature towards 30 degrees. If the blower doesn't reduce the speed then you will require an AC module re-calibration which can be done with the support of personnel from Tata Motors plant since, the guys at TASS will start their own R&D as they are normally not aware of such methods as far as I have seen. Try the above method once under a shade and then under direct sun and once again at night as it will help you give a better picture of the situation. Also please note that the altroz diesel has a very powerful Air con system which chills you to bone even in scorching summer. I believe the air con system on the altroz is over calibrated from Tata as it blows very cold air even at 30 degree centigrade during peak summer afternoon which isn't the case with auto AC's in my other cars.

3) I believe what you are trying to explain is about a solid metal clunk that emanates from the front suspension area that occurs randomly if I am not wrong. I had the same issue in my car and I got the car jacked up at TASS and got all the suspension bolts tightened up properly (both front and rear). It has been more than 8000 kms since the tightening session and I have never faced the issue again till date, not even once!

Originally Posted by Praneeth

I was unable to engage cruise even when I’m at the desired speed.

This car was delivered just four days ago and looking at these problems really makes me regret my decision.

I believe your clutch sensor is faulty. Try starting the car without the clutch depressed and if you can start your car successfully without depressing the clutch then you have a faulty clutch sensor. If you get a message stating "please press clutch" without the vehicle starting then, your cars clutch sensor is fine.

My humble advice for you is to contact Tata Motors via call (customer care number) or email and tell them that your brand new car is having an issue with Cruise Control and request them for assistance from the concerned person at plant. Don't leave the car at TASS as my guess says that they will start their own R&D by opening up the panels unnecessarily and start swapping parts from demo car to check to your car issues and might end up in damaging interior bits while doing so. I suggest you to stay firm and not hand over the car for 2-3 days. I would suggest you to be present at the showroom during the testing runs.

Don't regret your decision, once these issues are sorted out you will start to fall in love with the car. One long drive and you will fall in love with with her again and again. Please keep us posted. Happy motoring!

[Chaman K]

Originally Posted by AutoYogi

2)I believe the air con system on the altroz is over calibrated from Tata as it blows very cold air even at 30 degree centigrade during peak summer afternoon which isn't the case with auto AC's in my other cars.

3) I believe what you are trying to explain is about a solid metal clunk that emanates from the front suspension area that occurs randomly if I am not wrong. I had the same issue in my car and I got the car jacked up at TASS and got all the suspension bolts tightened up properly (both front and rear). It has been more than 8000 kms since the tightening session and I have never faced the issue again till date, not even once!

My father bought a XZ+ Dark diesel in January of this year (MY 2023) because of the excellent dynamics and practicality.
The car has done 5700 kms as of now, it is stage 1 tuned now and drives much much better.

Thank you for the inputs on (2) and (3). The auto AC goes nuts even at 26° C and we had thought the random clunk was due to stone hitting the underbody!! Will get it rectified.

Other niggles faced -

1) I want to know if there's some sort of fuelling roughness when giving full throttle as it's present in our car (since new) brought it up at TASS who said it's normal for the diesel (I believe this may be the cause for DPF issues)

2) DPF issues - My father's daily running is pretty low (about 3 km daily) and the car doesn't even warm up completely during the daily stint.
The DPF light is so small on the cluster so it was missed the first time around which led to the car going into limp mode as well (before the tune)
I drove the car that day and en route to the dealership after 20 km the limp mode and DPF light went away though the check engine light remained which had to be cleared. Later on, the car threw the DPF light about a month later (when running was low without the weekend drive to our native place) for which my father did some driving around the highways and it promptly went away.

The car was tuned to stage 1 (115hp, 280nm), and for the most part, the DPF light didn't come (the frequency reduced) however when it came it went away. But recently the DPF light came and didn't go away, after some driving it did go away but the following day power was reduced and the check engine light was on along with a gushing sound from whenever the turbo was supposed to spool up.

In the service center when it was brought, we got to know that it was due to the intercooler pipe which had come loose and it was fixed and the car was handed back to us who asked us to come later to clear the check engine light cause they didn't have the laptop for the time being. After coming back they took the car in for about 2 hours and performed a thorough dpf regeneration.

They informed me that DPF regeneration has to be done manually after 3-4 times on the cluster even if it goes away, with cleaning of the oxygen sensor, 30 minutes of park regeneration, and 30km of driving (which is supposedly their procedure). We were not charged for any of the DPF issues.

Drove the car to Bangalore and back to Mangalore (around 1000km since then), and I noticed that there is brake fade during hard braking at times.

3) Slam the trunk - Or else it doesn't close completely

4) FM Radio - The overall sound system is excellent in the car but the reception of FM radio is sub-par and there's a peculiar issue of sudden volume increase in between which makes it unusable.

5) Screen flickering - Happens when car is parked out in the sun and the interior is hot. The flickering goes away when the cabin starts to become cool (with AC)

6) Blind spot - more of a design flaw I guess as the A pillar is pretty huge. Does need some time to get used to.

Overall it's a great car and we have no regrets about the purchase. Would love to hear the inputs from fellow owners and BHPians

[PrasannaDhana]

Originally Posted by Chaman K

In the service center when it was brought, we got to know that it was due to the intercooler pipe which had come loose and it was fixed and the car was handed back to us

I thought my car was an one off case where the intercooler hose came loose. Looks like it's a standard feature (flaw) in all altroz diesels.

That being said, I also have the same complaint with the FM reception. Other than that I haven't experienced any other issues that you have mentioned.

BTW, that gearbox is said to be at its max torque threshold of 200Nm, how do you manage to use it without any issues at 115 bhp & 280 Nm?

Pls share more about the remap.

[AutoYogi]

Originally Posted by Chaman K

My father bought a XZ+ Dark diesel in January of this year (MY 2023) because of the excellent dynamics and practicality.
The car has done 5700 kms as of now, it is stage 1 tuned now and drives much much better.

Overall it's a great car and we have no regrets about the purchase. Would love to hear the inputs from fellow owners and BHPians

Please give us more information about remap viz. driveability, fuel efficiency, acceleration, NVH, etc post remap. Is the accelerator input lag gone after remap or does it still exist? Also please let us know if the issue of unresponsive A pedal on slopes or speed breakers has been rectified post remap. I mean whenever I hit the brakes on a speed breaker or normal roads coming to a dead stop and hitting A pedal immediately to make a move will make the A pedal unresponsive for a good 2-3 seconds, this happens on slopes as well when I come to a dead stop and if I try to hit the A pedal the revs don't rise for a good 2 seconds thereby making me engage the handbrake and raise the revs. The throttle lag is painful on steep slopes and whenever there is a need to break suddenly and accelerate again from stand still. On normal plain roads it is fine with nominal but noticeable lag hence, please let us know about these finer aspects.

Now coming to the other aspects you have discussed

1) I have faced jerky/spiky fuel delivery while doing around 30-50 kmph in 3rd gear with even slight throttle inputs. It feels as if the vehicle is having inadequate fuel delivery and this is a fuel mapping issue also mentioned in our TeamBhp official review. I think this can be rectified my remap technician's as they can tweak with the values.

2) I had suggest to avoid short drives (less than 10 kms) and low RPM lugging on BS6 diesel cars for best efficiency along with good engine life and to avoid engine oil dilution headache's. Keep an eye on engine oil level every 500-1,000 kms for understanding if any oil dilution has occured in the engine. I think your cars injectors are faulty since, most of the symptoms point towards it. There has been a recall for few batches of Altroz diesel's regarding injector defects, better get it checked and don't trust the TASS guys. Also get the fuel filter checked for blockage. One filling at suspicious fuel station is enough to block the diesel filter. I suggest you to take extended warranty for peace of mind considering a lot of costly components are covered under warranty.


3) An issue with the locking mechanism I guess.

4) I have never used the FM radio in my car till date, not even once so I have no idea about it. May be changing the antenna with same type from maruti suzuki spares will solve the issue and also reduce the unnecessary length compared to the current one.

5) This issue with the infotainment flickering has occurred in my car only
once and has never repeated again. I restarted the car and the flickering went away. If this issue happens again get the infotainment replaced under warranty since, extended warranty doesn't cover infotainment/head unit.

6) The blind spot issue is a huge concern but, I have got used to it since, my my other car is an ecosport and it also has the same issue. I think thick A pillars are a trait with most the safe and well built cars. I have installed sun visors and it further decreases the visibilty around roundabouts and turns.

Yes, it indeed is a nice car but I believe TaMo should have given the same gearbox and engine combination using same components from nexon instead of doing all these cost cuttings as the above issues discussed such as throttle lag, intercooler hose issue, gearbox limitation, etc could have been easily avoided.

Originally Posted by PrasannaDhana

BTW, that gearbox is said to be at its max torque threshold of 200Nm, how do you manage to use it without any issues at 115 bhp & 280 Nm?

Pls share more about the remap.

The gearbox on the Altroz diesel is an upgraded version of TA65 gearbox from the indica. Altroz diesel uses TA 5260 gearbox and if I am not wrong 5 = 5 speed and 260 = 260 nm of torque limit according to the nomenclature in the owners manual. Similarly nexon uses TA 6300 which means 6 = 6 speed and 300 = 300 nm of torque limit. The gearbox on the Altroz should be having a power limit of 100 BHP if my guess is right. So I believe that we are safe with a stage 1 remap atleast.

Please find below attached screenshot from the owners manual

[Chaman K]

Originally Posted by AutoYogi

Please give us more information about remap viz. driveability, fuel efficiency, acceleration, NVH, etc post remap.

1) I have faced jerky/spiky fuel delivery. I think this can be rectified my remap technician's as they can tweak with the values.

2) I had suggest to avoid short drives

I think your cars injectors are faulty since, most of the symptoms point towards it.

Also get the fuel filter checked for blockage.

I suggest you to take extended warranty for peace of mind considering a lot of costly components are covered under warranty.

Altroz diesel uses TA 5260 gearbox and if I am not wrong 5 = 5 speed and 260 = 260 nm of torque limit according to the nomenclature in the owners manual.

Prior to the remap -

The itch to remap the car was present even before the purchase of the vehicle cause the performance aspect of the car was the only weak link in the beautifully made product.

In 2021 when I was looking for a new car I did consider and test drove an Altroz diesel but was let down by the engine performance as compared to the polo TSI manual. Subsequently I got the Polo TSI in white.

Later on in 2022 our pre worshipped workhorse an i20 1.4 sportz 2013 started giving too many problems and there was an itch to upgrade. Father was not interested in SUVs and the only choices were the i20 diesel and Altroz diesel, took test drive of the Altroz and were sold on buying it.

We used the car for around 2-3 thousand kilometres before getting it remapped. Before remap there was that annoying throttle response issue in 3rd gear (which was also present in the TD vehicle I had driven) and the flat spots in the rev band with a lifeless top end post 3000rpm (it was not rev happy).

The rough when full throttle (which may be an injector issue) was present since new and was probably not present in the TD vehicle but I am not sure of it. Normal drivability was not as good as the Hyundai 1.4 which we had before.

One point I missed in the previous post - The engine sometimes keeps pulling even though accelerator is removed (it mostly happens right after a gear change and we start braking) - For example we accelerated and shifted to 4th, it keeps pulling forward for about a second. This is still present. (I believe it's there to reduce jerky shifts)

About the remap -

I got the remap done at T8 performance who predominantly tune diesel cars. On removing the ECU (which is located behind the air filter assembly) we got to know that the ECU is the same as what's used in the Tata Intra pickup truck. It is made by Delphi.

This ECU supposedly cannot be tuned just by connecting cables to the ECU and has to be opened, wires connected directly to the board for reading and editing the file. The same procedure is followed for certain Mahindra ECUs which they tune day in and day out as they come through courier.

Also this ECU supposedly cannot be reflashed by the dealer computer as well or updated as well. It is only the separate DPF module which gets updates.

This is not the case in ECUs made by Bosch (present in petrol Nexon, Altroz) which were tuned by T8 prior to mine through the obd port itself.

After backing up the original file, the edited file is fed into the ECU and the ECU is resealed. It is then checked in the car for any error codes.

Post remap -

Throttle response - The car is immediately responsive. Throttle lag is almost gone now. Yes there will be some time the car takes to process the input and get going, nothing abnormal. Driving the polo and this back to back, I don't find myself having this a reason to complain about. The jerky fuelling at part throttle is gone.

Fuel efficiency - Fuel efficiency before and after the remap have been quite similar I suppose. I or my father haven't looked so deeply into this since our running has been pretty low. In city driving it gives 12-14 (very short stints) highway driving with traffic gives 18-19 in the MID. With sedate driving it has given 21 in the MID (on state highways). With my mixed driving it gives 15-16 in MID. While leaving Bangalore I drove sedately till Nelamangala and the efficiency kept on rising till 23.7, I kept the tyre pressure at 32 all round with AC (cruising at 80-90) after which I got bored.

Remapped engine characteristics - The off boost response in low rpm is better. The car starts pulling from 1250 rpm and cleanly from 1500rpm and at 1750 rpm you have a sudden surge of power reminiscent of the 1.3 MJD. There is no turbo spool sound but a whooshing sound and a strong slug of torque till about 2500 rpm. 2500-3000 rpm seems quite linear and when you expect the power to drop off later a second wind of power comes as if afterburners got activated 3000-4000 pull is strong, the car hits its soft limiter at 4000 rpm.

Acceleration - The car does have torque limits in first and second gear or some sort of traction control because it doesn't wildly wheelspin during hard acceleration however the tyres do chirp till third gear (they are still 185s). I believe the acceleration to 100 is now around low 10s (a tad slower than polo's) partly due to the gearing which probably would be better being taller now (1st till 35, 2nd till 65, 3rd till 110)
The in gear acceleration though is obviously better than the polo or the previous i20 we had.

Drivability - The main reason for the remap was to have the ability to effortlessly overtake large vehicles fairly quickly and safely. And boy oh boy does it make a difference. Altroz does have the ability to mask speed very effectively however the remap is instantly noticeable. Most overtakes don't even require a drop in the gear which required quite a bit of work before. It does feel like a higher capacity engine now. It's not as precise as the 1.3 MJD or the 1.4 CRDI although the power characteristics more than make up for it now.

NVH - This is pretty much same for the most part in everyday driving, when flooring it though the engine noise is a bit more raspier but this might just be placebo effect or due to the rpm climbing rapidly. After 3000 rpm though the diesel drony sound is different all the way till 4000. It kind of sounds like a rocket (in a good way). Probably the wastegate sounds can be heard if the windows are down but I will have to confirm the same.

Reply to (2) -

Now I rotate cars with my father for the same.

I do believe that the injectors are faulty but the reason I'm not bringing it up right now is because our other car (2012 Cruze) is undergoing repairs of it's own since a few months. Will keep a close eye on the oil from now.

Will get the fuel filter checked thanks.

About the extended warranty - There's a strong chance that Tata would deny warranty on the car citing a remap if they check the ECU wouldn't they??(even though it's resealed almost perfectly, with a close look it is evident that it has new sealant)

(3) My friend's Punch has the same issue with the tailgate which requires more than a gentle push to close it.

About the gearbox - It's too soon to comment about the condition of the transmission or the clutch but all feels fine as of right now. There was a bit of notchiness in the reverse gear of the Altroz which has reduced now.

Other points of note which I missed in my last post

A. Brakes are lifeless without engine being on (very annoying when starting the vehicle in a slight incline without handbrake) which is also present in my friend's petrol Nexon.

B. Park assist system faulty indication in the reverse camera display intermittently which I've assumed is due to dirt over the sensors and the camera at the time being (camera works fine and sensors too) I will pay more close attention to this in the future.

C. ECO MODE - Seems like the maximum engine power is not restricted in this mode although the turbo doesn't kick in violently (perhaps a bit late) and the power delivery is more linear. I feel it's more of the accelerator pedal tuning than engine tuning. Cruising with eco mode did increase efficiency in my case probably by smoothening out the accelerator pedal responses. The driving modes can't be switched when accelerator is fully depressed.

D. Since the ECU would have limitations of its own (the running joke in our family is that the Altroz has a truck engine) also with regard to parts like throttle position sensor, wouldn't there be a limit to how polished this car would/ could be?? (like for example a Hyundai diesel or a VAG diesel)

[AutoYogi]

Originally Posted by Chaman K

Prior to the remap -

The itch to remap the car was present even before the purchase of the vehicle cause the performance aspect of the car was the only weak link in the beautifully made product.
...
...

Thank you very much for the detailed explanation about how the remap was carried out and overall characteristic comparison post remap with pre remap. An intra ECU on the Altroz is quite surprising actually and I believe TaMo took part sharing to a whole new level. I am happy with the overall drive-ability and performance of the stock setup except the A pedal lag and un-responsiveness at times. I thought of getting a remap done as well but I think I will stay away from remap for sometime since it involves opening the ECU.

The vehicle accelerating post a gear change is the anti stall kicking in. To stop this you have to depress the clutch. You can check this when the car is at stand still by depressing the clutch and releasing it. You will note that every time the clutch is depressed and released there will be a rise of 200-300 rpm on tachometer for about 3 seconds and this is a basic anti stall implemented using the clutch switch to help pick speed from idling instead of the driver raising revs using A pedal.

Extended warranty is very important according to me as it covers complete AC unit (condensor, HVAC unit, compressor), streeering mechanisms, engine and gearbox, clutch (50,000 kms),flywheel (50,000 kms) and suspension components (upto 50,000 kms only), starter, injectors and a lot of other things for 5 years or 2.5 lakh kilometers which are costly and would mount upto several thousands of rupees if we had to pay from our pocket. I doubt if the guys at TASS would even care to have a deep look at engine bay to find out the ECU re-sealed as they are already overloaded with a lot of work.

I am hopeful that the gearbox will be able to sustain the additional torque as I have shared the required info about the transmission in my previous post on why this a better gearbox.

A. I think this is common with most of the cars.

B. I had believe the sensor's to be faulty.

C. I have used the eco mode only twice and realised that the throttle response is dulled down but when A pedal is pressed more than 50% it becomes like city mode if I am not wrong. Your observation is right I believe.

D. The car is overall beautiful but I believe Tata should charge another 10-20k extra and give us better quality, fit/finish, tuning etc instead of compromising on basic stuff that goes a long way during an ownership tenure. I have also seen that every altroz out there has a peculiar issue and this is disappointing considering we live in 21st century where perceived quality is the game. I have decided that my next car will be from Skoda or Volkswagen considering their overall fit/finish, paint quality, safety, build quality along with very good engines. TASS is no better than VAG ASC's hence, I would like to try my luck with german's during my next purchase.

Once again, thank you for all the brilliant information mate.

[rnaduthota]

Next day I went for software update in different Service Centre and they promptly updated the software to A08 and handed over the vehicle within 2 hrs.

I will check the oil level in regular intervals and report you if the issue resurfaces. TASS claims the update will solve it and TATA is aware of the problem. Strange that if TATA is aware of the problem, then why they didnt ask us to update our software, had it not being the service time, I too will be driving the vehicle without any knowledge of the same.

Hi, Just bumping this old thread as i am also facing engine oil level increase issue in Nexon diesel. Can you confirm above issue is resolved after software update?

[robby0707]

Hello everyone.
I have recently purchased an Altroz diesel xz variant. Before the purchase, i have gone through most of the reviews and i am well aware of the niggles and issues that are faced by tata cars. However, my primary requirement was a diesel hatchback with high fuel efficiency and high safety rating and this was the only option available. I’m mostly happy with the car and have completed 2k kms by now.
There are two issues that I’m facing in the car currently. And before going to the svc with them, i would like to get inputs from other knowledgeable members.
1. Auto AC issue. This has been discussed earlier in this thread too. The temperature control of the auto ac is not functioning properly. Upto a temp setting of 29 deg, it blows air at a specific cold temperature and above 29 deg, it blows hot air. This is the case in auto and manual mode both. Also in auto mode, the fan is always at full blast. I have seen other members reply here that this is how it will work till the cabin reaches the set temperature. But i would like to refuse that. The fans will blow in full blast only if the difference between the set temperature and cabin temperature is quite large. This is my fourth car and fourth brand of car with ACC and this is not how it works.
2. Whenever i take of my foot from the accelerator pedal at medium speeds, the car jerks twice. I have no idea why. For example, if I’m cruising in 5 th gear at 70kmph , and i mildly press the accelerator to increase my speed and then leaves the accelerator, the car will jerk/judder twice. The timing is similar to the sound of netflix movie intros
Anyone any idea what might be the reason for these? The first issue is a totally something that i can ignore and would choose not to give the car to tata ASC to rectify that. However, i would like to sort out the second issue.

[Chaman K]

Originally Posted by robby0707

1. Auto AC issue
2. Whenever i take of my foot from the accelerator pedal at medium speeds, the car jerks twice. I have no idea why.

Hi there congratulations on your purchase.
We don't face the first issue as much but the ac blows crazy air when sunlight hits it I presume. Yes it is not calibrated correctly.

With regards to the second issue yes I do face the same issue of car accelerating after letting off the throttle along with a weird fuel delivery at times on full throttle present since new.

My understanding about the same is that it's due to the dpf.

[Praneeth]

Hello everyone,

Can someone recommend regarding headlight upgrade for xz+.
Daily i drive one hour in the dark. The projector halogens are woefully inadequate on dimly lit highways and unlit B-roads where you have autos and bikes blaring down with aftermarket LED lights.

Any recommendations are highly appreciated.

[AutoYogi]

Originally Posted by Praneeth

Hello everyone,

Can someone recommend regarding headlight upgrade for xz+.
Daily i drive one hour in the dark. The projector halogens are woefully inadequate on dimly lit highways and unlit B-roads where you have autos and bikes blaring down with aftermarket LED lights.

Any recommendations are highly appreciated.

Sorry for the late reply. Altroz has excellent low beam coverage and average high beam coverage (high beam throw reaches quite far but intensity is lost). I would recommend 3 options, you can pick which ever suits you. Altroz gets H7 bulbs in both low and high beam chamber (Total 4 Nos. H7 bulbs)

1) OSRAM 50W H7 4200K LED bulbs (a set of 2 bulbs would cost approx <6k).

2) Philips rally H7 80W (make sure to get the made in Poland series original bulbs and not made in china ones). One bulb costs ₹280, I am running this setup in all four headlamp chambers in my Altroz since more than one year. No issues till date, also Tata uses heavy wiring on their cars and one side of the headlight gets 20Amp fuse which is safe enough for 80W bulbs. Don't go above 80W as it will ruin the headlamps and wiring. This is a cost effective option and also improves lighting by upto 40%, but you risk losing warranty if ASC finds it out.

3) HID 55w H7 (preferably 4300K) in low beam projectors. High beam you can opt for 80W halogens or OSRAM 4200K led's(very powerful and will blind opposite road users) as HID in reflector setup will glare opposite road users and HID's take time to heat up (approx 4-8 secs). With HID setup you need to drill a hole in the headlight dust cap.