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Old 16th January 2012, 12:44   #166
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Re: Spiti-Lahaul circuit-2012 - Queries

I had gone to Spiti in Apr 2011.

The best route which I can suggest would be Chandigarh - Simla - Chitkul - Recong Peo/ Kalpa - Pooh - Nako - Tabo - Kaza - Kunzum La - Keylong - Rohtang and onwards to Leh.

The Kunzum pass is a dicey one predict. But mid to end June should be fine. Check the BRO website for updates. In Apr end last year, the road beyond Key-Kibber was closed, so turned back from there.

The best time for Ladakh would be Aug-Sep. The Rohtang La & Baralacha La can experience snowfall at anytime time of the year. You should be prepared to spend a night or two out in the open in case the roads close. Also be sure to carry extra fuel after Keylong. In fast carry plastic jerry cans with you before Manali itself, as it is exorbitantly priced there.

If you are constrained to Jun, then do the Simla - Kinnaur - Spiti - Lahaul - Manali trip. Ladakh is out. 11- 13 days is more than enough - depends on your mountain driving skills & experience. By the way, the road into SPiti valley is considered amongst the most dangerous roads in the world; but they are not a problem, if you have your head firmly stuck on your shoulders.

Be prepared to face bad/ no roads on stretches on the way to Chitkul & after Recong Peo to Pooh. Also in stretches in Spiti valley, you will only have rubble for roads & risk slipping off the unknown beyond, if you are not careful.

Having said that the stretch from Pooh to Nako, nearly till Sumdo had some off the most amazing roads that I have driven on (barring the Expressways). You won't believe it till you drive on it. The BRO is doing a great job and have made the roads very safe. Hats off to them !!!

Just go for it buddy. It is an experience you will never forget. In fact, if you prepone it, would suggest that you do it in May, before the tourist hordes get there & start ravaging the pristine beauty of Spiti valley. It is a trip which you must not miss. Do not skip Chitkul & Kalpa .


The route I've planned out is B'lore to Chandi - Feb 2012 - Google Maps

Last edited by ajmat : 26th June 2018 at 16:21.
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Old 24th May 2013, 17:18   #167
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Mumbai-Spiti Loop-Mumbai on a Shoe String Budget - Places to stay and eat

Hello People,

Its time for our annual drive. I had done Mumbai Leh Mumbai in my Dzire in 2008 http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...top-world.html Thereafter We have been doing a long trip every year. This year we plan to do Mumbai - Spiti Loop - Mumbai between 27th May and 12th June.

I have just set-up a training company. Budget for the drive is a big challenge. Nonetheless, we have planned to go ahead with it. We (my wife and me) will be travelling with our 2 daughters aged 9 and 6. So far all our drives have been spontaneous. We decide in the night and set out the next morning. Of course I keep my Dzire in top condition always. And the pre-highway drive check happens once the vacations start.

Now coming to the proposed drive. We need help with the following things:

1. Route - Shortest and least traffic.
2. Places to eat along the way - Cheap and delicious local cuisine. We all are foodies.
3. Clean loos - I have 3 gals with me. It can be a problem most times to find a clean Indian style toilet. Also if people could help on how do gals manage to relieve themselves in the high mountains with practically no loos around.
4. Cheap places to stay - We are not looking at fancy resorts or hotels. Basic bed and breakfast places. We will be carrying our bedding to ensure we get to sleep in clean beds.
5. Places of interest and not to be missed locations with a small detour.

I am resorting to http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...aur-spiti.html a fantastic guide by DineshA about Spiti Loop. Our proposed plan is as below:

Day 1 Mumbai - Jaipur
Day 2 Rest in Jaipur (my parent live there)
Day 3 Jaipur - Chandigarh (Or some place before or after Chandigarh which is much cheaper to stay)
Day 4 Chandigarh - Shimla - Enter Kinnaur via Rampur (need to plan a probable destination and a place to stay)
Day 5 onwards in the Spiti valley - places of interest along the way till we reach Chandratal

Here I have a question, I have been to Pangong Tso and was left speechless on seeing it. How interesting is Chandratal? It involves a 3 km trek and I am not sure my daughters can do it at that altitude. Only if it is not to be missed, shall we attempt it. Else if someone can recommend another nice clear water lake along the route, it will be really nice.

Now without counting days, We come out of Rohtang in to Manali. A day in Manali, need help on place to stay. Drive Back to Shimla - Chandigarh - Delhi (or can we direcly reach Jaipur?) - Udaipur - Mumbai.

That is the broad plan. We do not drive with specific destinations in mind for the end of day. Except with the possible exception of the first two days and last last two days of the drive.The rest is open depending on how much we all can coop up with in terms of fatigue. The idea is to be in the Himalayas and spend some good family time. I am the only driver.

Now coming to costs, we are looking at spending not more than Rs 30 to Rs 50 per person per meal. So no lavish treats for us. On the stay front, during my trip to Leh we had stayed in JKTDC guest houses in Drass (Rs 200 per night), Jammu (Rs 800 per night) and a basic hotel (Rs 800 per night) in Leh. We are wanting to keep the cost of stay around Rs 500 to Rs 600 per night for all 4 of us. That is too much of an ask, but that's where the fun is. The biggest component of the cost is going to be cost of fuel. My Dzire is a diesel one, expecting to return 18 kmpl over all. The next big item is toll.

My cost calcs are as following:

Fuel (Distance 5000 km, kmpl 18, cost per liter Rs 57) - 15833
Toll (at 70 paisa per km) - 3500
Food (3 meals at Rs 200 per meal on the higher side, a total of 15 days) - 9000
Water and Beverages (Rs 200 per day) - 3000
Stay (@ Rs 750 per night for 13 nights) - 9750

Grand Total - Rs 41083

Please tell me if I have missed on any other costs.

We are looking at bringing it closer to Rs 30000. I completely trust the abilities of fellow BHPians on guiding us in achieving it.

We will be using MapmyIndia GPS A140 (if I remember the model correctly). We also need guidance on planning the trip on it. Have never done circular trip plan on it thus far.

Thank you all!

Dushyant
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Old 24th May 2013, 23:41   #168
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Re: Mumbai-Spiti Loop-Mumbai on a Shoe String Budget - Places to stay and eat

Quote:
Originally Posted by dushmish View Post
1. Route - Shortest and least traffic.
Bombay-Jaipur, your usual route
If you want to reduce toll, you can try the Bombay-Nasik-Dhule-Dhamnod-Manpur-Lebad-Ratlam-Mandsaur-Neemuch-Nimbahera-Chittorgarh-Jaipur route.

From Jaipur, choose your travel time with care (preferable mid-morning) to escape the wrath of traffic on the messy NH8. Alternative routes like going via CHuru, Rohtak/Kaithal, etc are not exciting & can be stressful.

Jaipur-Behror-Gurgaon-Delhi-Panipat-Karnal-Ambala-Zirakpur-Parwanoo-Kandaghat

Why do you want to go to expensive Shimla? Why not Chail & take Kandaghat-Chail-Kufri route?

Shimla/Chail-Kufri-Narkhanda-Rampur-Jeori-Karcham-Powari-Pooh-Nako-Tabo-Kaza-Losar-KUnzum la-Chandra Tal-Batal-Chhatru-Gramphoo-Rohtang Pass-Manali


Quote:
3. Clean loos - I have 3 gals with me. It can be a problem most times to find a clean Indian style toilet. Also if people could help on how do gals manage to relieve themselves in the high mountains with practically no loos around.
There are mostly none. Gals who travel with me like the great open outdoors. In any case, considering the sad state of use/ maintainance of toilets in India, toilets are best not patronised!

Quote:
4. Cheap places to stay - We are not looking at fancy resorts or hotels. Basic bed and breakfast places. We will be carrying our bedding to ensure we get to sleep in clean beds.
Those days are all over. Hotels have jacked up rates considerably since you last went on this circuit. The real cheap places are not fit for families to stay in and/or do not have safe car parking.


Quote:
5. Places of interest and not to be missed locations with a small detour.
LOts of ideas.

In Kinnaur Valley:
Jeori-Sarahan
Karcham-Sangla-Chitkul
Powari-Recong peo-Kalpa

In Spiti Valley:
Sichling-Dhankar
Attargo-Sagnam-Mud (Pin Valley)
Kaza-Ke-Khibber-Tashi Ganga
Kaza-Ke-Langza-Komik-Hikkim


Quote:
Day 1 Mumbai - Jaipur
Day 2 Rest in Jaipur (my parent live there)
Day 3 Jaipur - Chandigarh (Or some place before or after Chandigarh which is much cheaper to stay)
With an early start, you can target Chail (cheaper than Shimla). In any case, no need to go into Chandigarh, you may as well stay in cheaper places like Ambala or Panchkula.

Quote:
Day 4 Chandigarh - Shimla - Enter Kinnaur via Rampur (need to plan a probable destination and a place to stay)
Day 5 onwards in the Spiti valley - places of interest along the way till we reach Chandratal
As per plan suggested above.
Stay in HPTDC in Sarahan (also cheaper hotels there)
Rupchin Inn, Raktcham, or Panchali Palace, Chitkul
Rakpa in Kalpa (HPTDC is superb, but costs almost double)


Quote:
Here I have a question, I have been to Pangong Tso and was left speechless on seeing it. How interesting is Chandratal? It involves a 3 km trek and I am not sure my daughters can do it at that altitude. Only if it is not to be missed, shall we attempt it. Else if someone can recommend another nice clear water lake along the route, it will be really nice.
Nice small lake, but does not have the expanse of Pangong & not comparable.
Road to Chandra Tal not easily doable in a Swift.

Quote:
Now without counting days, We come out of Rohtang in to Manali. A day in Manali, need help on place to stay. Drive Back to Shimla - Chandigarh - Delhi (or can we direcly reach Jaipur?) - Udaipur - Mumbai.
From Manali, you can target Delhi easily, and Jaipur will be one long journey.


Quote:
Now coming to costs, we are looking at spending not more than Rs 30 to Rs 50 per person per meal. So no lavish treats for us. On the stay front, during my trip to Leh we had stayed in JKTDC guest houses in Drass (Rs 200 per night), Jammu (Rs 800 per night) and a basic hotel (Rs 800 per night) in Leh. We are wanting to keep the cost of stay around Rs 500 to Rs 600 per night for all 4 of us. That is too much of an ask, but that's where the fun is.
Double the costs & you may still be under-estimating costs.

Quote:
My cost calcs are as following:

Fuel (Distance 5000 km, kmpl 18, cost per liter Rs 57) - 15833
Toll (at 70 paisa per km) - 3500
Food (3 meals at Rs 200 per meal on the higher side, a total of 15 days) - 9000
Water and Beverages (Rs 200 per day) - 3000
Stay (@ Rs 750 per night for 13 nights) - 9750

Grand Total - Rs 41083
Costs all not realistic.



Quote:
We will be using MapmyIndia GPS A140 (if I remember the model correctly). We also need guidance on planning the trip on it. Have never done circular trip plan on it thus far.
Bad idea

Last edited by ajmat : 26th June 2018 at 16:22. Reason: minor typo
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Old 6th June 2013, 03:24   #169
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Re: Mumbai-Spiti Loop-Mumbai on a Shoe String Budget - Places to stay and eat

Quote:
Originally Posted by dushmish View Post
2. Places to eat along the way - Cheap and delicious local cuisine. We all are foodies.
This will not be a problem in Gujarat/ Rajasthan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dushmish View Post
3. Clean loos - I have 3 gals with me. It can be a problem most times to find a clean Indian style toilet. Also if people could help on how do gals manage to relieve themselves in the high mountains with practically no loos around.
4. Cheap places to stay - We are not looking at fancy resorts or hotels. Basic bed and breakfast places. We will be carrying our bedding to ensure we get to sleep in clean beds.
Unfortunately, these are going to problematic for you. What I used to do when travelling by road with my partner, which was about 30,000kms in a year; was to carry a load of toilet paper & plenty water with us. Sorry, but that is the most practical solution I can offer from my experience.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dushmish View Post
A good idea.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hvkumar View Post
Why do you want to go to expensive Shimla? Why not Chail & take Kandaghat-Chail-Kufri route?
This route would not only be better, but also more scenic. Also you will encounter much less traffic. Do be warned that this road is not as wide as the main highway, which adds to the fun of driving. Also Chail has a Military School, a palace converted into a hotel & amongst the highest cricket grounds.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hvkumar View Post
LOts of ideas.

In Kinnaur Valley:
Jeori-Sarahan
Karcham-Sangla-Chitkul
Powari-Recong peo-Kalpa
At Chitkul, do go further beyond the village. It is a really nice, quiet & calm place. Your kids should also be able to manage it. Also there a lots of lovely spots along the Baspa river which are not too far off from the road.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hvkumar View Post
With an early start, you can target Chail (cheaper than Shimla). In any case, no need to go into Chandigarh, you may as well stay in cheaper places like Ambala or Panchkula.
This is an excellent suggestion. Ambala Cantt is right on the highway and has a decent place 'Batra Hotel' if I remember correctly. It is hardly 40 minutes drive from here to Chandigarh. After Panchkula, there are not too many great options untill you cross over Parwanoo/ Dharampur stretch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hvkumar View Post
As per plan suggested above.
Stay in HPTDC in Sarahan (also cheaper hotels there)
Rupchin Inn, Raktcham, or Panchali Palace, Chitkul
Rakpa in Kalpa (HPTDC is superb, but costs almost double)
A suggestion, but it may not be the right time for implementation. During my month-long trip in these areas of H.P. in Apr 2011, I stayed almost exclusively in HP PWD Guest houses all over the Shimla, Kinnaur & Spiti districts. They are very clean, safe & also have kitchen whrere meals are provided. Problem is given the tourist season having started, rooms may not be readily available.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dushmish View Post
We do not drive with specific destinations in mind for the end of day. Except with the possible exception of the first two days and last last two days of the drive.The rest is open depending on how much we all can coop up with in terms of fatigue. The idea is to be in the Himalayas and spend some good family time. I am the only driver.
I would suggest that since you're driving with young kids, its better to have your destinations planned out at least a day or two in advance; as it may be difficult to get place to stay overnight. Also do take a print out of telephone nos. for all stay options at your possible halts with you before your head into the mountains. Preferably before you leave Bombay. This will help you in cold-calling & finding a place to stay before-hand.

The only mobile operator in Spiti valley is BSNL. Even though it is summer, do carry warm clothes to layer up, especially for the kids, including gloves, jackets & woolen caps. I had snow in end-April at Chitkul; ans last year witnessed exceptionally heavy rainfall.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dushmish View Post
Now coming to costs, we are looking at spending not more than Rs 30 to Rs 50 per person per meal. . . . . We are wanting to keep the cost of stay around Rs 500 to Rs 600 per night for all 4 of us.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hvkumar View Post
Double the costs & you may still be under-estimating costs.

Costs all not realistic.
I agree with this aspect. The costs you have calculated especially for stay & food would need to be increased, as you are well into the tourist season now.

Your fuel costs will tend to be higher because of the following:-
1. High altitude consumption is more.
2. Climbing up & down the mountain roads will reduce your mileage.
3. You are likely to take detours due to landslides, rains, traffic jams & lack of stay options.
4. You could be stuck out on the road and would need to keep the engine running to run the AC/Heater-both are equally possible.

Estimated Costs.
Fuel - 20,000/-
Food - 13,000/- (300/- per meal for 3 meals for 15 days)
Water - 2,500/- (will consume less water at high altitude, though you should consume as much as you normally do)
Toll - 3,500/- ( sticking to your estimates)
Stay - 15,600/- (avg 1200/- per night if you check around in advance. Also as suggested by hvkumar, prefer to stay at the smaller towns- they have a better atmosphere & way cheaper rates.)

That comes to approx 55,000/- at the outer limit, if you plan your trip & halts well.

Diesel. After descending from Recong Peo, if I remember, the next petrol pump is only at Kaza. So you absolutely need to top up here. After Kaza, the next one you hit is at Keylong in Lahaul dist, after you cross the Kunzum-la.


Happy motoring & enjoy the drive. It is truly spectacular. And the sooner you go, the better it is. The Baspa & Spiti valleys have been seeing the unwelcome sides of development in the recent years.

This will be a drive which your kids will always treasure. Looking fwd to your travelogue. I would say go for it, but plan it.
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Old 6th June 2013, 10:18   #170
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Re: Mumbai-Spiti Loop-Mumbai on a Shoe String Budget - Places to stay and eat

Quote:
Originally Posted by dushmish View Post
3. Clean loos - I have 3 gals with me. It can be a problem most times to find a clean Indian style toilet. Also if people could help on how do gals manage to relieve themselves in the high mountains with practically no loos around.
The only addition to what HVK and Dushyant have already advised you above is to have something like this: http://www.decathlon.in/TENTS-CABIN
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Old 6th June 2013, 12:06   #171
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Re: Lahaul - Spiti; Suggestions and help needed

Most of the things have already been covered. Ill only add a few things:
1. From Jaipur do not enter Chandigarh, I would suggest drive to Solan (possible if you have a early morning departure from Jaipur. Even there are some Hotels on the Kumarhatti-Solan road. If required let me know and I shall forward a few telephone numbers. You can talk tot hem directly.

2. Turn right from Kandaghat and drive Chail-Kufri and avoid Shimla. However, if not then take the route from Shoghi-Mehli via Pantha Ghati. This will put you on the Shimla Byepass about 10 odd kms from the Dhalli tunnel. Since you will hit the main road after the tunnel it shall be a smooth ride thereafter.

3. Take a break at Shongtong on that day. Do not over stress yourself on hills. There is a small forest GH on the left side of the road. Try gate crashing there and you should be able to get a room. Alternatively, drive upto Sarahan from Jeori and rest there. That way you will see the Bhimakali temple as well.

4. Carry woollens and plenty of dry rations with you. Water is not much of an issue as there are a lot of springs till you cross Khab.

5. Do visit the Nako lake and give Chandartal a pass if you are not sure about the physical stress as due to high altitude effects would be personal to each of you. Also visit the Nako monastry which is even older than the more popular Tabo Monastry.
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Old 11th July 2013, 15:50   #172
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Re: Lahaul - Spiti; Suggestions and help needed

is Spiti circuit doable in August - what is the road/weather condition in August? Also - tourist season - is it still high tourist season in August?
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Old 22nd March 2014, 17:59   #173
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Re: Lahaul - Spiti; Suggestions and help needed

Hello,to all the members of this travelogue.
2014 has started and our quest for Spiti has to began now.
I am planning to visit "The Land Of Gods-Spiti" around 4th of may 2014,from Delhi
I have gone through the whole write up & suggestions,so will be planning accordingly.
Still can any one of you provide me the numbers which i might be needing in for the trip & any of the suggestions would be most welcomed.
Regards,
Karam!
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Old 13th May 2015, 14:50   #174
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Re: Lahaul - Spiti; Suggestions and help needed

I need some help and suggestions in planning a trip to Spiti valley in Sept 2015. We will be two people on two motorcycles but sadly have just 1 week (6th-12th Sept) to explore the place.

5th: Delhi - Chandigarh

We can only afford a evening start from Delhi, so planning to ride upto Chandigarh for the night.

6th: Chandigarh - Kalka - Chail - Theog - Narkanda - Sarahan

Planning to start very early morning from Chandigarh and stay at Sarahan or Jeori after seeing the Chail Palace and Bhimakali Temple.

7th: Sarahan - Kalpa - Nako - Gyu Monastery - Tabo

This will be a longish day, possible to reach Tabo if we do a very early morning start from Sarahan??

8th: Tabo - Dhankar - Mud (Pin Valley)

Planning to visit the Monasteries and the Pin valley.

9th: Mud - Kaza - Komic - Kibber - Kaza


Planning to visit the monasteries and gompas around Kaza.

10th: Kaza - Losar - Chandratal

How far can one ride upto Chandratal? I have heard that the last 3-4 km is a trek which generally takes around 2 hours. We plan to camp the night at Chandratal. Any precautions to be taken?

11th: Chandratal - Kunzum La - Manali

Planning to leave the campsite after breakfast and reach Manali by night.

12th: Manali - Mandi - Chandigarh - Delhi

I was thinking of visiting Parashar Lake as well. Is there a road that leads upto Parashar lake or one has to trek to the Lake? How are the roads from Manali to Parashar and Parashar to Mandi?

Apologies for so many queries, requesting suggestions for the itinerary. Thanks in advance.
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Old 25th July 2016, 15:06   #175
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Re: Lahaul - Spiti; Suggestions and help needed

Hi BHPians!

I recently got HRS alloys for my XUV500 (see here: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/tyre-a...-thread-8.html). I am now planning a trip to Lahual-Spiti. Considering the rough terrain there, can anyone suggest if it will be advisable to switch back to steel rims for this trip? I haven’t disposed the steel rims and still have it with me, so would not be an issue in switching back. HRS alloys are well known for their superior build quality so I might just be okay in doing this trip in these alloys. Please let me know what is advisable, as I read on a few forums that steel is recommended for rough terrains. FYI my XUV500 is 2WD.

Regards,
PK
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Old 26th July 2016, 14:29   #176
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Re: Lahaul - Spiti; Suggestions and help needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by pratyushkohli View Post
Hi BHPians!

I recently got HRS alloys for my XUV500 (see here: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/tyre-a...-thread-8.html). I am now planning a trip to Lahual-Spiti. Considering the rough terrain there, can anyone suggest if it will be advisable to switch back to steel rims for this trip? I haven’t disposed the steel rims and still have it with me, so would not be an issue in switching back. HRS alloys are well known for their superior build quality so I might just be okay in doing this trip in these alloys. Please let me know what is advisable, as I read on a few forums that steel is recommended for rough terrains. FYI my XUV500 is 2WD.

Regards,
PK
Hi PK,
I have recently been to Spiti with a safari 4x2 running on steel rims. Roads are quite challenging however, I had no problem. You can easily do this terrain with any tyre/rim. I have seen lots of people are doing this circuit with hatchbacks and sedans with alloys. As you have a extra rim I would rather suggest to take extra spare wheel (provided space is not a issue). Hope this will help.
Regards,
Hriday
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Old 10th August 2016, 12:56   #177
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Re: Lahaul - Spiti; Suggestions and help needed

Quote:
Originally Posted by pratyushkohli View Post
Hi BHPians!

I recently got HRS alloys for my XUV500 (see here: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/tyre-a...-thread-8.html). I am now planning a trip to Lahual-Spiti. Considering the rough terrain there, can anyone suggest if it will be advisable to switch back to steel rims for this trip? I haven’t disposed the steel rims and still have it with me, so would not be an issue in switching back. HRS alloys are well known for their superior build quality so I might just be okay in doing this trip in these alloys. Please let me know what is advisable, as I read on a few forums that steel is recommended for rough terrains. FYI my XUV500 is 2WD.

Regards,
PK
Trip to Spiti can be undertaken with any set of tyres and rims. I did the trip in October 2015 in Swift Dzire Petrol and didn't face any issues. Heres the link to my travelogue of Spiti trip, hope it helps you plan your trip.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travel...ure-sedan.html

Regards.
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Old 1st March 2017, 17:06   #178
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Re: Lahaul - Spiti; Suggestions and help needed

What would be the state of roads on this circuit towards end-April/early-May? How far beyond Kaza would one be able go?

Thanks in advance...
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Old 1st March 2017, 17:11   #179
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Re: Lahaul - Spiti; Suggestions and help needed

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Originally Posted by cool_dube View Post
What would be the state of roads on this circuit towards end-April/early-May? How far beyond Kaza would one be able go?
Losar, maybe? Certainly not over Kunzum la that early in the season.

Roads should be okay but it can snow in end April. We were in Chitkul around 30th April about 5 years ago and it snowed plenty.
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Old 1st March 2017, 17:13   #180
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Re: Lahaul - Spiti; Suggestions and help needed

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Originally Posted by cool_dube View Post
What would be the state of roads on this circuit towards end-April/early-May? How far beyond Kaza would one be able go?

Thanks in advance...
Roads? What roads?

Spiti has no roads except the freshly laid tarmac near Kaza, the Kaza - Kibber stretch and a few short sections here and there. But it will be home turf for your Gypsy (assuming you are taking your Gypsy there) so don't worry about slush fields or broken tarmac.

You may go upto Losar but Kunzum La will be closed most likely in early-May. However, you may explore Pin Valley, Kibber, Chicham, Tashigang, Gete, Hikkim, Langza and Komic from Kaza.
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