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5 sec open shutter will blow high light areas. If according to you it won’t, then let me know the process.
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A 2 stop change i ISO with a 2 stop change in shutter speed will give you the same exposure so your highlights will be exposed the same. While I am pretty sure of this if I am wrong I realy would like to know why and how. This is again like I say at the bottom not an argument but just a discussion.
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Shooting for high light and shadow separately and merge later would be other option.
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I would use that only if the DR is beyond the capability of the sensor - which in this case it is not.
BTW another way to do the above WITHOUT a tripod is to shoot ONE exposure in RAW, postprocess the RAW into two different TIFF/JPEGS, one for highlights and one for shadows and merge the two. Again thats a technique but not needed when the dynamic range is not vast like in this shot.
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But that needs a tripod. I didn’t have tripod for that shot.
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Again just curious-how did you shoot 1.3 sec without a tripod? As I said I had presumed that support was used and hence the shutter speed could have been longer.
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For regular situations, I go with 100 or less. But..
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May not be the best actually. Some reports have shown that ISO less than 200 has less dynamic range but then this is controversial and not conclusively proved IMO. Still I use 200 as my minimum EXCEPT when I want to reduce the shutter speed tremendously as for example in taking a waterfall when I would use lowest ISO in conjunction with some ND filters.
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Why do you calibrate your monitor regularly?
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Because unlike most digital photographers I do take prints too and if your monitor is not well calibrated the colours in the prints do not come out as you would want them too.
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Well, it’s a question of choice. Depends greatly on what you like.
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Like I said I LIKE the mood of this image [personal taste - I agree], but I still think that the WB is a bit off.Try shooting the same lighting with "tungsten WB" set on your camera and you will see the difference. BTW which body are you using? I think this may be Canon as I have similar WB issues with AWB with Canon and a friend who shifted from Nikon to Canon said that the Nikon AWB was much better.
I also find [after his suggestions] that I get a better WB even in daylight if I select the shade/cloudy etc than by leaving it on AWB.
You may ask why it makes a difference as I shoot RAW. It saves PP time if your WB is better to start with than having to correct every shot in PP. Plus the image looks better when you are chimping
BTW what RAW convertor are you using?
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I don’t think my tone was as you mentioned. However, I’m sorry if it sounded like that to you.
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I'm sorry too for that statement if that was not your intent
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Shooting and post processing is very close to my heart. Of course I need education. Teach me with some examples.
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Very close to my heart too and I'm sure you dont need an education. I would say that this is just a discussion with a difference of opinions?
Rudra,
Just saw the EXIF and I see that its the 1DsMk2. What a lovely body you have. [just re read that line and it sounds so funny]. Also that you use PS in Mac. So I guess two of my questions have been answered.
Which lens did you use for this?
Rudra,
Sorry for another post but you know that as a newbie I cannot edit my posts. Forgot to ask - what is the colour of the walls in that shot?