[deepfreak15]

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

searching around for the TechSpec snake skin grips in multiple websites, but it seems to be out of stock almost everywhere. If by any chance you have any leads on the same do let me know.

Originally Posted by theredliner

I too was looking for TechSpec ones for the RC 390 a few days back.

Bigbadbikes have the generic ones in stock, bought them a couple of weeks ago but too lazy to go to a sticker shop to cut to shape.

[krishnaprasadgg]

Originally Posted by theredliner

I too was looking for TechSpec ones for the RC 390 a few days back. Found them only internationally. Some reviewers on Revzilla had mentioned that they had got generic rectangle sheets which one would have to manually cut to the desired shape.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/TechSpec-Sna...5/383438997210

Stompgrip seems to be a cheaper option with good reviews (I personally think they don't look as good as TechSpec)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/STOMPGRIP-T...K/272433490653

No comment

I carry the hydration pack too in the tankbag these days.

Ah! It never occurred to me to try out ebay. Thanks a lot for the link, will check it out.
R&G also has a similar design product to TechSpec, will be looking into that also

Even I am not a big fan of stomp grips so not looking into that option.

Originally Posted by deepfreak15

Bigbadbikes have the generic ones in stock, bought them a couple of weeks ago but too lazy to go to a sticker shop to cut to shape.

Ah, that's great news. I will have a look into that also if it's the cheaper option I'll buy that and get it cut in the proper shape. Thanks for the lead on that one!

Cheers
Krishna

[vignesh.cv]

A bit late, congrats on your acquisition Krishna. What you own is truly a beautiful machine, something that helped Yamaha turn the tables in their WSBK campaign, winning the '09 championship with Ben Spies on the very same generation of the R1. It is so good to see someone spending that time and energy in keeping the machine in good condition. After going through your various posts, I thought I'll sum up some suggestions for you here:

• Yamaha R1's have typically had "woody" brakes. Not that there is any lack of stopping power, but that's the way it has been. Most competitive usage see the ABS disconnected and switching to the traditional two lines from the master cylinder to the front brakes setup. Given your road usage, I wouldn't recommend that. Switching to different pads might help, but honestly there is nothing wrong with the OE pads.
• For tank grips, I would stay away from Stompgrip. They don't last and the sticker peels off in about 3 track weekends. TechSpec is much better in that regard and lasts longer. Alternatively, you can also try these anti-slip bathroom tapes. They are cheaper and work well.
• For critical things like oil filter, I'd strongly recommend sticking with OE. Aftermarket might be cheaper or might claim many things, but I will never take a risk on the motor by using anything other than OE oil filters.
• As you've gone for a slip-on pipe and running an aftermarket air filter, I would strongly suggest investing in a reflash/piggy back fuel controller like Bazzaz. This will help supply that extra fuel and also help smoothen out the overall torque curve.
• Stock up on consumables like oil filter, brake pads so that you don't have to wait for parts to arrive.
• Stuff like aftermarket rearsets do help, but you need to research a bit in terms of quality, adjustability etc., Stuff like Gilles is too flashy and stuff like Vortex is really cheap, so you need to find something inbetween. Woodcrafts are very good.
• Given our dusty road conditions and road usage, you will need to clean the air filter more frequently than what is recommended by the manufacturer.
• Frame sliders and axle sliders are a must if you haven't already invested in them. Again there are cheap ones and better ones. Woodcraft, R&G all make good stuff.
• Given the power output and the need for grip, Metzeler M7RR/Michelin Road 5 are better than the Pirelli Angel GT's for this kind of bike.
• Make sure your tyre pressures are checked before every ride. Again, don't go by the manufacturer recommendation for tyre pressures. They tend to be silly high most of the times. A cold pressure of 30/32 would be a good starting point for road tyres and road usage. My 600rr had 36/42 cold for road. Crazy.

[krishnaprasadgg]

Originally Posted by vignesh.cv

A bit late, congrats on your acquisition Krishna. What you own is truly a beautiful machine, something that helped Yamaha turn the tables in their WSBK campaign, winning the '09 championship with Ben Spies on the very same generation of the R1. It is so good to see someone spending that time and energy in keeping the machine in good condition. After going through your various posts, I thought I'll sum up some suggestions for you here:

Thanks a lot, Vignesh! Much appreciated. I love it that you are a fan of WSBK. Very rare to find people following that branch of the sport, it is a shame Indian sports channels choose not to broadcast it.
I love the R1 to bits always have, I do intend to keep the bike in top mechanical and visual condition while enjoying it at the same time. Fingers crossed

Yamaha R1's have typically had "woody" brakes. Not that there is any lack of stopping power, but that's the way it has been. Most competitive usage see the ABS disconnected and switching to the traditional two lines from the master cylinder to the front brakes setup. Given your road usage, I wouldn't recommend that. Switching to different pads might help, but honestly there is nothing wrong with the OE pads.

Ok, so this has been repeated multiple times by much more experienced riders than me, it looks like it just comes down to me wanting more bite from the brakes as a personal choice. While I do agree MC upgrade might be a bit overkill for mostly on-road usage, I most definitely am planning to get the EBC sintered brake pads, pretty sure it should help quite a lot. And now that I am thinking about it, I did not service the brakes or clear the brake pads/fluid after getting the bike. I should do that once and compare the stopping power on the stock pads. But the EBC pads are definitely coming in next month, I have a few parts coming in this month which I need to pay for.

For tank grips, I would stay away from Stompgrip. They don't last and the sticker peels off in about 3 track weekends. TechSpec is much better in that regard and lasts longer. Alternatively, you can also try these anti-slip bathroom tapes. They are cheaper and work well.

I am too not a stompgrips, but purely based on the way it looks. I have no experience with either of the products, but a few of my friends have used the TechSpec of their Daytona and RC's and they had only good things to say.

For critical things like oil filter, I'd strongly recommend sticking with OE. Aftermarket might be cheaper or might claim many things, but I will never take a risk on the motor by using anything other than OE oil filters.

I agree, I always prefer OEM parts to the aftermarket parts. But as I have learned that in case where the required OEM parts are not available in stock in India, it can take upto 2 months for the same to get delivered. So the aftermarket filter was a precautionary measure. Also, reviews on the Hiflo filter have been great so far.

As you've gone for a slip-on pipe and running an aftermarket air filter, I would strongly suggest investing in a reflash/piggy back fuel controller like Bazzaz. This will help supply that extra fuel and also help smoothen out the overall torque curve.

I was under the impression that no ECU tuneup is required for just a Slipon change. The aftermarket filter is just the OEM replacement and not a race use filter, so technically speaking I should be in the clear right?

Stock up on consumables like oil filter, brake pads so that you don't have to wait for parts to arrive.

Yup, brake pads, and spark plugs should be in next month, and clutch and throttle cables should arrive any time now. Thinking of keeping a set of air filters also in stock for any unforeseen situation.

Stuff like aftermarket rearsets do help, but you need to research a bit in terms of quality, adjustability etc., Stuff like Gilles is too flashy and stuff like Vortex is really cheap, so you need to find something inbetween. Woodcrafts are very good.

I had looked into the woodcraft rearset, the price on those are just eye-watering high. Maybe after a few months once I am done stocking up consumable parts and general maintenance items I will start saving for a set of woodcraft rearset.

Given our dusty road conditions and road usage, you will need to clean the air filter more frequently than what is recommended by the manufacturer.

Very true. Every 3000kms or so planning on getting the air filter cleaned.

Frame sliders and axle sliders are a must if you haven't already invested in them. Again there are cheap ones and better ones. Woodcraft, R&G all make good stuff.

Luckily it already has frame sliders, swingarm spool/sliders, engine /clutch protective casings already installed by the previous owner. I think the sliders are Evotech and the engine casing protectors are GB Racing and Woodcraft(The bike had a low-speed slide when with the previous owner and the damaged GB Racing protective casing was replaced with a woodcraft one.)

Given the power output and the need for grip, Metzeler M7RR/Michelin Road 5 are better than the Pirelli Angel GT's for this kind of bike.

I will be going for one of those instead of the Angel GT's next time. I have just put in around 3k kms on this set though.

Make sure your tyre pressures are checked before every ride. Again, don't go by the manufacturer recommendation for tyre pressures. They tend to be silly high most of the times. A cold pressure of 30/32 would be a good starting point for road tyres and road usage. My 600rr had 36/42 cold for road. Crazy.

Absolutely, I never leave for a ride without doing this. I keep an inflator with me at home so that I can simply plug it into my car and get the right pressure and inflate to the required psi on a cold tyre.
Hey, even the R1 is specified at 36/42 from the factory and that is what I am maintaining.
P.S It is awesome that you had one of the most legendary bike the 600RR. I always admired that bike and had the good luck of interacting with one very recently which belonged to a friend/ fellow BHPian.

Cheers
Krishna

[vignesh.cv]

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

Ok, so this has been repeated multiple times by much more experienced riders than me, it looks like it just comes down to me wanting more bite from the brakes as a personal choice. While I do agree MC upgrade might be a bit overkill for mostly on-road usage, I most definitely am planning to get the EBC sintered brake pads, pretty sure it should help quite a lot. And now that I am thinking about it, I did not service the brakes or clear the brake pads/fluid after getting the bike. I should do that once and compare the stopping power on the stock pads. But the EBC pads are definitely coming in next month, I have a few parts coming in this month which I need to pay for.

I think what you are missing is the feel at the lever. The bite is definitely there, but it just feels a bit "wooden". Which is why replacing the MC won't help. It's more of how the ABS works on this particular bike. You can try replacing the brake fluid and clean up the calipers with warm water and soap. That can help with the feel part.

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

I am too not a stompgrips, but purely based on the way it looks. I have no experience with either of the products, but a few of my friends have used the TechSpec of their Daytona and RC's and they had only good things to say.

TechSpec is good, you can check Baycity speed shop at Mumbai for getting one specific to your bike.

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

I was under the impression that no ECU tuneup is required for just a Slipon change. The aftermarket filter is just the OEM replacement and not a race use filter, so technically speaking I should be in the clear right?

Anytime you change the breathing characteristics of a motor by way of changing the air filter or the exhaust, you will need to consider changing the fuelling to account for that. Also, the stock fuelling will be on the leaner side especially in the midrange to account for emissions. I gained a lot of usable torque low/midrange on the 600rr simply by mapping it properly with the Bazzaz.

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

I had looked into the woodcraft rearset, the price on those are just eye-watering high. Maybe after a few months once I am done stocking up consumable parts and general maintenance items I will start saving for a set of woodcraft rearset.

Please do, they are worth the money and the best part is they are not brittle like some of the other brands.

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

Hey, even the R1 is specified at 36/42 from the factory and that is what I am maintaining.

36/42 seems to be a common thing with Jap bikes. Its way too high. Please reset it to something like 30/32 or 30/35.

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

P.S It is awesome that you had one of the most legendary bike the 600RR. I always admired that bike and had the good luck of interacting with one very recently which belonged to a friend/ fellow BHPian.

Thank you, the bike was (is) bullet proof and served me really well. Now, she's made way for the RSV4.

[krishnaprasadgg]

Originally Posted by vignesh.cv

I think what you are missing is the feel at the lever. The bite is definitely there, but it just feels a bit "wooden". Which is why replacing the MC won't help. It's more of how the ABS works on this particular bike. You can try replacing the brake fluid and clean up the calipers with warm water and soap. That can help with the feel part.

My bike does not have ABS. ABS models were available post the 2014 models I think. Regardless I will be getting the whole braking system serviced in the next visit to my mech. Let's see if it improves anything.

Originally Posted by vignesh.cv

TechSpec is good, you can check Baycity speed shop at Mumbai for getting one specific to your bike.

Will contact them and check it out.

Originally Posted by vignesh.cv

Anytime you change the breathing characteristics of a motor by way of changing the air filter or the exhaust, you will need to consider changing the fuelling to account for that. Also, the stock fuelling will be on the leaner side especially in the midrange to account for emissions. I gained a lot of usable torque low/midrange on the 600rr simply by mapping it properly with the Bazzaz.

Will check it out.

Originally Posted by vignesh.cv

Thank you, the bike was (is) bullet proof and served me really well. Now, she's made way for the RSV4.

That's awesome!

Cheers
Krishna

[bigron]

Originally Posted by vignesh.cv

A bit late, congrats on your acquisition Krishna. What you own is truly a beautiful machine, something that helped Yamaha turn the tables in their WSBK campaign, winning the '09 championship with Ben Spies on the very same generation of the R1. It is so good to see someone spending that time and energy in keeping the machine in good condition. After going through your various posts, I thought I'll sum up some suggestions for you here:

• Yamaha R1's have typically had "woody" brakes. Not that there is any lack of stopping power, but that's the way it has been. Most competitive usage see the ABS disconnected and switching to the traditional two lines from the master cylinder to the front brakes setup. Given your road usage, I wouldn't recommend that. Switching to different pads might help, but honestly there is nothing wrong with the OE pads.
• For tank grips, I would stay away from Stompgrip. They don't last and the sticker peels off in about 3 track weekends. TechSpec is much better in that regard and lasts longer. Alternatively, you can also try these anti-slip bathroom tapes. They are cheaper and work well.
• For critical things like oil filter, I'd strongly recommend sticking with OE. Aftermarket might be cheaper or might claim many things, but I will never take a risk on the motor by using anything other than OE oil filters.
• As you've gone for a slip-on pipe and running an aftermarket air filter, I would strongly suggest investing in a reflash/piggy back fuel controller like Bazzaz. This will help supply that extra fuel and also help smoothen out the overall torque curve.
• Stock up on consumables like oil filter, brake pads so that you don't have to wait for parts to arrive.
• Stuff like aftermarket rearsets do help, but you need to research a bit in terms of quality, adjustability etc., Stuff like Gilles is too flashy and stuff like Vortex is really cheap, so you need to find something inbetween. Woodcrafts are very good.
• Given our dusty road conditions and road usage, you will need to clean the air filter more frequently than what is recommended by the manufacturer.
• Frame sliders and axle sliders are a must if you haven't already invested in them. Again there are cheap ones and better ones. Woodcraft, R&G all make good stuff.
• Given the power output and the need for grip, Metzeler M7RR/Michelin Road 5 are better than the Pirelli Angel GT's for this kind of bike.
• Make sure your tyre pressures are checked before every ride. Again, don't go by the manufacturer recommendation for tyre pressures. They tend to be silly high most of the times. A cold pressure of 30/32 would be a good starting point for road tyres and road usage. My 600rr had 36/42 cold for road. Crazy.

Something like the EBC HH or the EPFA's will be far superior to any oem pad even for road use. Combined with braided lines and you are set for spirited rides. OEM pads are average at best.

An after market filter from K/N, Amsoil, Mobil 1, HI-Flo will perform equal if not better than oem. I have never used an oem filter during any of my service and have not faced any engine issues by using an after market one. OEM works just fine but can run expensive if you do a lot of touring with frequent service intervals.

There is no need for a piggy bank ecu. There is absolutely no change in the air/fuel mixture by installing just a slip on. The restriction in the exhaust system happens prior to the can and the stock ECU can alter itself for smaller changes if any by installing the slip on. They basically for noise and weight savings. And unless you are running a race filter the flow of air is also the same. A full exhaust installed is when the need for mapping arises.

[krishnaprasadgg]

So guys, need some help.
The spark plugs on the bike was changed last at 16k kms on the ODO and now I am at 24k. So I have about 2K kms before I need to change them.
But I need to get an oil change in within 1k kms. So I have decided to get it all done together and also fit in a few accessories I have coming in soon.

So what I want suggestions/advice with is Spark Plugs. Instead of going for the stock plugs planning on getting the NGK Iridium plugs. I browsed their website and found the required part through their part finder option. But my doubt is how accurate is this option.



When I looked into the details provided within the same website, the part that came up was shown for the R1 up until the 1998 model, which got me confused. Is it the same or has it changed.



As per owners manual the model number is different, I think it's because the bike might be coming with standard plugs and I am looking to move to Iridium plugs



Any help would be much appreciated.

EDIT : Did a little bit more digging. Found the stock part in the NGK website.

But on comparing the details with the Iridium plug , there are a few parameters that show different spec. For EG: Reach and thread diameter. I'll attach screenshots here for better clarity

Stock Plug Details


Iridium Plug Details


My knowledge of Spark plug is very limited. So If anybody can shed more light on this it'll be really helpful. I'm getting a gut feeling going for the stock plugs will be the smarter move here.

Cheers
Krishna

[bigron]

Short answer, get stock plugs from the dealer and call it the day.

Longer answer, both plugs that you see will work on your bike.The negligible difference would probably be in the booster gap and the tip. NGK website can be quite confusing but NGK builds two types of iridium plugs. Iridium OE and Iridium IX. There is a difference in their service intervals and also a slight variation in their construction. We can discuss more but just stick to the factory plugs.

[krishnaprasadgg]

Originally Posted by bigron

Short answer, get stock plugs from the dealer and call it the day.... We can discuss more but just stick to the factory plugs.

Stock plugs it is then. Gave my mech the go-ahead to source the plugs.
Yes, the NGK website is a bit confusing when you start reading into the details. I found in some places the unit used between 2 products shown is also not standardized, one was in inches one in mm.

Cheers
Krishna

[krishnaprasadgg]

No ride update this week.
I have about 1k kms more or so before I need to get a general service done and 2k before replacing the spark plugs. Spark plugs are in order. I am expecting to get the bike into service within 2-3 weeks' time. That's about the time I take to cover 1k kms.

But I do have some other updates.
2 new parts have come in and both are aftermarket parts.
1. MRA Racing windscreen(Double bubble, light grey)
2. Tech Spec Tank Grips.

Let me just say how pathetic it is to deal with most of the shops dealing with aftermarket parts here. The kind of lackluster response I get when trying to talk to them to know if they have a part in stock or if they can order one for me. The utter disrespectful 'take it or leave it/I am doing you a favor' attitude is just something that gets on my nerve.

When looking for a Double bubble visor, I called up/ messaged quite a few shops in Delhi, Mumbai region and none of them are even interested to take in order.
The same happened when looking into the tech spec tank grips. Speed monks in Delhi seemed to have them listed on their website as in stock but with previous experience from other shops I decided to call them first and then place an order and sure enough, they did not have the item in stock at all. At least they were very prompt in responding to text and calls which was a good thing in my books. Though they also did not show any interest in ordering one for me. Someone had suggested Baycity speed shop and they have not even bothered to respond to my messages, funny enough when I dropped ina message I saw a message I had sent them over 3 years ago for the same tech spec pads fro my CBR and that message was also not responded to. I guess they are not interested in serving people who do not visit their stores.

MRA Visor


Opted for the Light Grey Tint


So Finally in a fit of rage, I just ordered one from Revzilla(thankfully they were back in stock this time) and decided to just pay the customs tax and be done with it, instead of dealing with the shops here.
I placed the order on 3rd March and Received it today. That's about 7 days from the US to my somewhat rural village in Kerala, 10/10 on shipping.
The pads cost me $74.95 with a flat $45 shipping to India, a total of $119.95. UPS deals with delivery fulfillment in India and they took care of customs clearance and everything.
So, in the end, I had to pay up 42% customs duty for the $75 which came up to Rs.2342 and a service charge for UPS of about Rs.298/-.
So the total cost for getting the tank pads in hand cam to about Rs.11,390/- (8751 + 2639 customs duty & service charge). I definitely paid a premium but seemed better than dealing with shops here.

Always Love to see that RevZilla logo


Just the stickers make it almost worth the 45 dollars shipping charge.




Now as for the MRA visor, they have worldwide shipping but do not ship to India. In calling up many shops I finally got hold of a shop in Cochin called Corsagram who deals with imported goods for bikes. Luckily they were very accomodating and were ready to place an order with MRA for 50% upfront payment and promised me delivery within 21 days. Paid 5k upfront and the order reached their shop within 14 days and paid the remaining 4.5k and collected the visor from them.
So the visor cost me around Rs9,500. With a list price of around Rs.6,xxx/- as per their web site. I did get a good deal for the visor.

Fitment will be done soon along with the next service and will post detailed pictures then.

I also did a bit of window shopping for helmets. Corsagram had the Nexx and Shark helmets with them.

I tried out their Shark Race R Pro Lorenzo replica helmet.


Also Tried out the Nexx XR2 Carbon Zero


And their Nexx WST2 Carbon Zero. This apparently works for both Supersports and naked bikes too. the website also calssifies it under the "Sports" section.


Out of the 3 I really loved the fitment of the Shark, it was very snug and felt comfortable too at size M, which I use a size L with the Nexx.
Still on the fence about which helmet to get, will continue looking for some time and make the decision soon. Having used the Nexx XR2 Carbon Pure for the last 4 years I want to try out a different brand but the pricing and availability are making me reconsider this.

Cheers
Krishna

[neil.jericho]

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

I also did a bit of window shopping for helmets. Corsagram had the Nexx and Shark helmets with them.

I tried out their Shark Race R Pro Lorenzo replica helmet.

Incidentally I was at Corsagram yesterday, though I had gone to check out their mesh jackets. Ive been using the Shark Race R Pro for a couple of years now. Fabulous helmet. Ive posted feedback on it in the helmet thread. And you get a 5 * SHARP rating instead of the 3* that the Nexx XR2 gets. Let me know if you are planning to pick up a helmet in Cochin.

[krishnaprasadgg]

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

Incidentally I was at Corsagram yesterday, though I had gone to check out their mesh jackets. Ive been using the Shark Race R Pro for a couple of years now. Fabulous helmet. Ive posted feedback on it in the helmet thread. And you get a 5 * SHARP rating instead of the 3* that the Nexx XR2 gets. Let me know if you are planning to pick up a helmet in Cochin.

Ah. I was at Corsagram on Saturday around noon. I also tried out their Furygan riding jacket. Liked the way it sits on the body..very light and compact. But To get my proper fit I need to reduce my waistline .
Shark seems to be the better option right now. Need to save up. They quoted me around 50k or so for the Pro variant.
I will definitely ping if I'm getting one from Cochin.

Cheers
Krishna

[neil.jericho]

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

Ah. I was at Corsagram on Saturday around noon. I also tried out their Furygan riding jacket. Liked the way it sits on the body..very light and compact. But To get my proper fit I need to reduce my waistline .
Shark seems to be the better option right now. Need to save up. They quoted me around 50k or so for the Pro variant.
I will definitely ping if I'm getting one from Cochin.

Cheers
Krishna

I picked it up from Big Bear Customs, next to Biking Spirit and the Triumph dealership. The price was much much less at that time. Rs 32K as I recall. Check with them as well.

[VijayAnand1]

Krish, next up, I guess, it's time to invest in a full leather suit. Definitely warrants one, along with a good helmet upgrade. I'd suggest you look for SHARP ones, as Neil had said or as budget permits. But Bell, and HJC are a great place to start with. Secondly, I'd strongly recommend you get either ceramic or PPF done for that sort of color. You always seem to have a fetish for one off tri-colors right from CBR days, so, this would mean her shine stays up for a long time to come, and Bengalooroo's harsh parking conditions. Thirdly, If you've ever considered this, I'd suggest Galfer rotors, seems slick and performs well at least according to the reviews.

Cheers!
VJ