[bigron]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Secondly, I'd strongly recommend you get either ceramic or PPF done for that sort of color. You always seem to have a fetish for one off tri-colors right from CBR days, so, this would mean her shine stays up for a long time to come, and Bengalooroo's harsh parking conditions. VJ

There is actually no need to get any sort of coating done. As long as you wash your bike when it warrants a wash followed by a wax/polish session your paint shall remain intact for years.

Unless the bike is parked in direct sun day in and day out for weeks on end the pain shall retain its texture, shine and quality.

Current bike 10 years old, still has that showroom gloss. All I ever did was a good cleanup after a long tour and a wax job. And yes, closing in on 40,000 kms I think on this. The older gen one was sold at 57,000 kms with the paint intact without any fade.

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Thirdly, If you've ever considered this, I'd suggest Galfer rotors, seems slick and performs well at least according to the reviews. VJ

Though rotors are part of the whole brake upgrade it, the most essential bits are pads and braided lines followed by master cylinders and then calipers.
Unless one goes for something like the Brembo T Drive rotors that run for 700 USD the outlay compared to the improvements is hardly justified.

I run the galfer semi floating rotors, they look really cool with their wave design but thats about it.

[krishnaprasadgg]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Krish, next up, I guess, it's time to invest in a full leather suit. Definitely warrants one, along with a good helmet upgrade. I'd suggest you look for SHARP ones, as Neil had said or as budget permits. But Bell, and HJC are a great place to start with. Secondly, I'd strongly recommend you get either ceramic or PPF done for that sort of color. You always seem to have a fetish for one off tri-colors right from CBR days, so, this would mean her shine stays up for a long time to come, and Bengalooroo's harsh parking conditions. Thirdly, If you've ever considered this, I'd suggest Galfer rotors, seems slick and performs well at least according to the reviews.

Cheers!
VJ

Gears upgrade is coming up soon. But need to save up before that.

And No way I am going for Ceramic treatment did it in my car and I really regret it now. As bigron said good old wax and polish are more than enough. The only reason it's not done so far is that I park the bike in basement parking where it is super dusty and don't have enough space or time to do it. I need to get the bike over to Kerala and I can do a good job at it.

Dude trust me, the special edition paint scheme thing is something that is not planned. It just happened

As for the brakes, I am just going to get a full brake system re-haul and service done and get the EBC pads and see how it improves. I talked to my mech and he suggested the DOT5.1 to be given a try. I need to read up a bit on it before taking a call, I do remember reading somewhere about some DOT specifications not being suitable for certain brakes lines and seals.

Originally Posted by bigron

There is actually no need to get any sort of coating done...The older gen one was sold at 57,000 kms with the paint intact without any fade.

I fully agree with this.


Cheers
Krishna

[VijayAnand1]

True that. I myself haven't used any ceramic coating and PPF for any of my motorcycles. But, heresay, I do read reviews about the "big boys" vouching for it, but, eitherway polishing frequently does the job right!

Regarding the brakes, yes, frequent bleeding isn't necessary. And yes, 5.1 is a good one, holds temps better, but honestly for street use, DOT 4 is more than justified, my two cents though. Pad upgradation is a good choice. I'd personally suggest Brembos instead of EBC. I am having a sour experience with EBC on the Himalayan!

I trust you mate, fully. Either way you end up with some tricolor Jai Hind

Cheers!
VJ

[Rachit.K.Dogra]

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

Out of the 3 I really loved the fitment of the Shark, it was very snug and felt comfortable too at size M, which I use a size L with the Nexx.

Cheers
Krishna

Have been doing some research on helmets myself lately and a close friend got a Shark Race R Pro, so had the opportunity to try it. Out of this list, I would only recommend the Shark.

Rachit

[neil.jericho]

If you plan to tour with a tank bag on your bike, go for PPF. Otherwise you will end up with a lot of small scratches on the tank.

If you arent going to use a tank bag, just wash and wax as the other forum members have suggested. Throw in the very occasional polish as well for better results.

[krishnaprasadgg]

Originally Posted by Rachit.K.Dogra

Have been doing some research on helmets myself lately and a close friend got a Shark Race R Pro, so had the opportunity to try it. Out of this list, I would only recommend the Shark.

Rachit

Shark is right on top of the list for me now.

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

If you plan to tour with a tank bag on your bike, go for PPF. Otherwise you will end up with a lot of small scratches on the tank.

If you arent going to use a tank bag, just wash and wax as the other forum members have suggested. Throw in the very occasional polish as well for better results.

No plan on using a tank bag at all. The tank bags I have are too big for the bike and doesn't stick on properly because the top are of the tank is plastic and the riding position is such that a tank bag would make things more uncomfortable.

Cheers
Krishna

[krishnaprasadgg]

I took the bike in for oil change and spark plug change as the spark plugs had arrived earlier than expected and I was expecting to put another 1-2k on the odo soon and since the bike has already done 4k plus on the current oil, did not want to stretch it thin.
Took this chance to change the oil filler cap which was broken a broken grip and was an eyesore and also get the MRA screen and tech-spec tank pads fitted.
Also did a brake system bleeding and filled in the Liqui Moli Dot 5.1. Brake system rebuild is still pending as the rebuild kit(seals) is still on order and has not reached yet.

Took photos only of the essential stuff
List of Work Done
1. Spark Plug Replacement
2. Air Filter Cleaning
3. Oil & Oil Filter Change
4. Chain Tightening & Lubing
5. MRA Windshield install
6. Tech Spec Tank grips install
7. Front & Back Brake Bleeding and DOT 5.1 fluid change

While getting the spark plug replaced we hit a snag, the first one actually with the R1. The HD plug which slots onto the Cylinder 2 had its rubber boot/adapter stuck itself into the spark plug seat, only the HD plug was coming off. We had to pry out the rubber boot and found the rubber boot adapter to be broken.
A replacement part has been ordered. I was a bit worried as if this will cause any problems, but my mech reassured me that it won't cause any issues and we only need to replace that unit whenever the next spark plug change comes up.
Attaching photos of the issue.

This is how it is supposed to come off when the HD plug is removed(Ignore the broken piece, I forgot to take a picture of the non damaged one)


This is how it came out.


While my mech did reassure me that nothing is there to be worried about. If any experts here can comment on the same it'd be really helpful.

Apart from that everything else went pretty smoothly. I'll add a few more pictures of what I managed to click.

OEM Spark plugs manufactured by NGK




Comes in Yamaha branded packaging


Each plug costs Rs.1170/- Ouch!! Also added here the part number


These are the spark plugs that were removed. No oil deposit or fouling found on the electrodes or the tip. So had a good life span I guess. Opinions welcome!

Plug 1


Plug 2


Plug 3


Plug 4


All The HD plugs. Note how the plug onto the Cylinder no 4(Right most side) is a pain in the butt to get too.


Brake Fluid used LIQUI MOLY Dot 5.1 Fluid


Now a few pics of the cosmetics changes done.

Tech Spec Tank grips installed


Stock Windshield


MRA Windshield


Side Profile



BTW, Oil Used was LIQUI MOLY STREET RACE 10W40. Cost comes to Rs.999/- per Ltrs

P.S: Found this strange deposit on the Rubber hose of the cooling system on the left side of the bike near to the shifter. Any idea what this could be ?


So, Total damage to wallet this time is Rs.13,496.85/-


Rode the bike barely 1kms post this. So I can't really say anything about the smoothness yet. I will post once I get to ride it a bit.

Total spent on the 1 so far.


An eye-watering amount no doubt, but the bike is becoming perfect little by little, a proper brake rebuild and she should be 100% perfect.


Cheers
Krishna

[VijayAnand1]

Lovely updates Krish. Just my observations on the spark plug. The cap mouth as I term it, for a lack of a better term, can be two sides to a coin. Meaning, if they ground somewhere, they can cause misfiring or not enough spark available at the tip. So, sometimes she might not fire on all cylinders or work absolutely fine as long as the tip wasn't broken while installing earlier and held in place providing the right seal and fitment.

Unless the replacement part arrives, I think it can hold, for the most part, provided it's installed the right way as it's supposed to be. The key here, is the insulation material is a must around any high electricity conductor medium, spark plug wires, spark plug cap and the likes. So, till your replacement part arrives, it should hold well.

Secondly, is that really a rubber tube or a part of chassis? I might be wrong though. From the looks of it, it looks like a metal tube and has some paint pittings on it. If it were a rubber tube, it can be droppings of insects or wasps. If these are droppings, a dab of petrol or kerosene with some scotchbrite and gently wiping the area will get rid of them. If it's a metal part and if it's pitted, then paining is the only way to mend.

Cheers!
VJ

[krishnaprasadgg]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Lovely updates Krish. Just my observations on the spark plug. The cap mouth as I term it, for a lack of a better term, can be two sides to a coin. Meaning, if they ground somewhere, they can cause misfiring or not enough spark available at the tip. .....If it's a metal part and if it's pitted, then paining is the only way to mend.

Cheers!
VJ

Like you can see in the pic, no other damage has happened..apart from that small piece being broken.
And it was fixed back properly. I just completed a 500kms ride today to Kerala and had 0 issues, no misfire or missing.

The replacement part should reach in a few weeks I think.

That is indeed a rubber part and is part of the cooling system and I too think it's paint overspray. But the thing is nothing on the bike has been repainted like that. I guess it is overspray from some other place. It is not raised on touch.

Cheers
Krishna

[VijayAnand1]

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

Like you can see in the pic, no other damage has happened..apart from that small piece being broken.
And it was fixed back properly. I just completed a 500kms ride today to Kerala and had 0 issues, no misfire or missing.

The replacement part should reach in a few weeks I think.

That is indeed a rubber part and is part of the cooling system and I too think it's paint overspray. But the thing is nothing on the bike has been repainted like that. I guess it is overspray from some other place. It is not raised on touch.

Cheers
Krishna

Yes, if it's not chipped and is one piece and able to fit in perfectly, the thing shouldn't have any trouble, but in case of water ingestion due to pressure washing in such scenarios you just never know.

To the tube: If it's rubber, then simple DIY "can" clear the issue. Dab a rag with some solvent, very little and apply on the area and let it soak for a minute, now scrubbing it with your fingers mildly, if it comes out, you should pat yourself for a job well done. If not, pat again for trying. But paint, wasp droppings anything on rubber should come off easily, with fiber scotchbrite treatment.

One thing I'd recommend you to do during your next spark plug replacement is, clean the head area thoroughly. Before removing the plug, use compressed air around the spark plug recesses to remove all the grime around the spark plug hole, then remove the plug. Also, get a can of Zorrik or WD40 and make sure all the innards of the spark plug boots are cleaned, wiped and then installed back. Also, make sure your battery terminals are cleaned and vaseline applied to the terminals.

Cheers!
VJ

[Odeen12]

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

P.S: Found this strange deposit on the Rubber hose of the cooling system on the left side of the bike near to the shifter. Any idea what this could be ?
Attachment 1979901
Cheers
Krishna

It's probably just dirt, grime, plus humidity and our superb riding conditions. Try cleaning the same with some rubbing alcohol.

Also these hoses do wear out over a period of time. They tend to become hard etc. When you do decide to upgrade them, may be you'd want to look at some Samcos.

Cheers!!

[krishnaprasadgg]

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

Yes, if it's not chipped and is one piece and able to fit in perfectly, the thing shouldn't have any trouble.....If not, pat again for trying. But paint, wasp droppings anything on rubber should come off easily, with fiber scotchbrite treatment.

Well, it turns out its paint overspray, I don't know from what or when. The shifter rod rubber boot also has some on it.

Originally Posted by VijayAnand1

One thing I'd recommend you to do during your next spark plug replacement is, clean the head area thoroughly. Before removing the plug, use compressed air around the spark plug recesses to remove all the grime around the spark plug hole, then remove the plug. Also, get a can of Zorrik or WD40 and make sure all the innards of the spark plug boots are cleaned, wiped and then installed back. Also, make sure your battery terminals are cleaned and vaseline applied to the terminals.
Cheers!
VJ

Most of these steps were strictly followed.

Originally Posted by Odeen12

It's probably just dirt, grime, plus humidity and our superb riding conditions. Try cleaning the same with some rubbing alcohol.

Also these hoses do wear out over a period of time. They tend to become hard etc. When you do decide to upgrade them, may be you'd want to look at some Samcos.

Cheers!!

Yes, Samcos was in the list of items to get since I was concerned about the cooling system hoses being over 6 years old. During the coolant flush, we did go over the hoses and my mech was pretty happy with the condition of them, they had no cracks and hadn't turned hard yet.
I am keeping an eye on them and will change them within a year or so regardless.

Cheers
Krishna

[krishnaprasadgg]

I did a 500kms ride to my hometown yesterday.
I was looking forward to this ride a lot because I could test out how the bike felt after the fresh oil change, braking performance after bleeding and upgraded brake fluids and the addition of the windshield and the tank grips. So here are the observations.

And to say that the bike has transformed in terms of riding feel and comfort is an understatement.

Fuel stop and some much-needed rest from the heat at Salem


Let me start with the oil change, of course like any other vehicle, the first 1000kms or so post a fresh oil change is always a fun time, the bike is usually super smooth and gear changes are just sublime, history repeats here too, no surprises there. A clean air filter does help too, something I missed out on posting in the last service post was how filthy the air filter had gotten from just about 1000kms of ride done, it was just awful.

Pit stop about 30kms post Salem


Next, the braking performance, as already stated here before, the first step towards improving braking performance was replacing the old brake fluids and bleeding the brakes. The older brake fluids were losing its quality, the fluids in the rear brake reservoir were turning blackish and gunky, front not so much. Anyways, the braking has improved quite satisfyingly, the bike sheds speed much faster than before and is more confidence-inspiring now, clean brake fluid and upgrading to DOT 5.1 did do its job well. But the brakes are no close to in giving the feedback that I want to, for which I guess changing to better brake pads is the next step. Waiting for the stock pads to wear off enough to replace them.

Pit stop about 30kms post Salem


Next, the Double bubble(DB)/ Race windshield. Exceptional is the word to use here. The difference in wind resistance this windshield provides is night and day contrast. While the stock windscreen provides decent wind resistance but things start getting uncomfortable by the time you hit 120kmph now unless you are in a full tuck body position this is pretty much bound to happen. Now we all know that we cannot ride/tour in such a position so the problem of wind resistance is real. With the DB windshield, that problem is solved, the windshield protects you from windblasts to speeds until much higher speeds before the wind starts creeping in that too without a full tuck body position. This helps tremendously in reducing body fatigue and when riding long distance on a supersport any changes to reduce fatigue is a huge plus.
Tried doing 2-3 fat 2nd gear pulls too to test the difference in wind blast in full tuck, let's just say that stealing a glance at the speedo during this had me chicken out as I did not realize the speeds I was hitting inside the bubble.

Usual pitstop just before crossing over to Valayar


Finally the tank grips,

Originally Posted by theredliner

I don't see any tank grips on your R1. I feel some good tank grips would go a long way in reducing wrist pain on long rides.

@theredliner you, my sir have scored yourself some biriyani karma point from my side. The difference that the tank grips made is nothing short of a miracle. I did not realize up until now that how much my legs where slipping and causing me to slide into the tank while riding which had me adjusting my seating position way more, with the tank grips I found that I was barely sliding around from my seat, so much lesser seating adjustments so much less stress/fatigue. I was able to do much longer distances this time without any breaks than ever before. And yes, because of this I am able to reduce the grips on the handles and wrist pain is considerably lesser.

So to sum it up for me the investment in the windshield and the tank grips have proved to be worth every single penny spent.

P.S: On a side note, the Tiger crossed 5000kms on this ride.





This whole trip in itself was a crazy one. While the R1 covered only 500kms the tiger did 1000kms. We started at around 3 am from Kerala with my brother riding and me as pillion. We managed to reach Bangalore in 6 hours flat at 9 am. I took about 30 mins break and I jumped on the R1 and rode back and reached home back at 3.45 PM. Just the fact that I was able to do ride the R1 after a 500kms stint as pillion on the tiger speaks volumes about the pillion seat comfort on the tiger.

All 3 together yet again.


Cheers
Krishna

[theredliner]

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

@theredliner you, my sir have scored yourself some biriyani karma point from my side. The difference that the tank grips made is nothing short of a miracle. I did not realize up until now that how much my legs where slipping and causing me to slide into the tank while riding which had me adjusting my seating position way more, with the tank grips I found that I was barely sliding around from my seat, so much lesser seating adjustments so much less stress/fatigue. I was able to do much longer distances this time without any breaks than ever before. And yes, because of this I am able to reduce the grips on the handles and wrist pain is considerably lesser.

So to sum it up for me the investment in the windshield and the tank grips have proved to be worth every single penny spent.

Haha. Glad to hear that the grips have made the long rides much more enjoyable. You have made me seriously consider upgrading from the cheap ones I had put as part of testing to some good ones like TechSpecs. Unfortunately, Snakeskin isn't available for the RC 390. Only XLine is available. I might get the generic Snakeskin sheet though. I might consider upgrading the windscreen too.

BTW, the Snakeskins look awesome on the R1. Totally OEM and the bike actually looks even better with them on than without

[krishnaprasadgg]

Originally Posted by theredliner

Haha. Glad to hear that the grips have made the long rides much more enjoyable. You have made me seriously consider upgrading from the cheap ones I had put as part of testing to some good ones like TechSpecs. Unfortunately, Snakeskin isn't available for the RC 390. Only XLine is available. I might get the generic Snakeskin sheet though. I might consider upgrading the windscreen too.

Yes, availability is an issue. Like I ranted in my previous post, I just bit the bullet and ordered directly from revzilla.

Originally Posted by theredliner

BTW, the Snakeskins look awesome on the R1. Totally OEM and the bike actually looks even better with them on than without

I was surprised. I was a bit worried that it'd cover up the red stripes on the tank and will look odd, but it came out so well.

Cheers
Krishna