[gd1418]

Have the M&M Asc's stopped using the maxximile? I haven't heard of Crown brand. BTW, I use the Chevron Delo 400.

How did they decarbonise the engine? Did they remove the head and scraped the soot & residue? This would almost take 2 days to complete. If they said that they used a chemical to do this without opening the head then they must go back to automotive school and learn something about the IC engine. What they have done is to hose the mufflers and silencer pipes.

And Bhasins don't have injector cleaning machine? Tch, tch. Sterling in Gurgaon has one. And this additive was totally unnecessary as your Scorpio is a non-injector model. You engine has nozzles. They made a fool out of you.

Originally Posted by Styler

Hi HVK and others,

I got my Non-CRDE Scorpio back after the 65K service.

The following was done :

Parts

1. Oil Crown 6 Ltr @ 178.33/ltr Rs 1069
2. Oil Filter Rs 138.66
3. Fuel Filter Rs 134.22
4. Engine Decarbonise Rs 1,862
5. MI3000 Fuel Aditive (For Injectors) Rs 577
6. ERing Clip Rs 135
7. SYL0009 Rs 300
8. Windscreen Wiper Nozzle Rs 75
9. Assy Shock Absorber Front 2WD X2 Rs 1,300
10. Kit Shock Absorber Rs 85

Service Charges

11. Paid Service Rs 1,250
12. Consumable Charges Rs 100
13. Wheel Allignement (Free with coupon)
14. Shocker Replace Rs 700
15. Jumping Rod Bush Replaced Rs 350

Adding Taxes the total bill was around Rs 9000/=

Styler

I too have the same engined 2004 GLX model. Not a single problem till date including what you've mentioned.

Originally Posted by Styler

It seems that Mahindra is loosing out on the Reliability factor for the Scorpio in the newer models, because they are inexperienced with hi technologies incorporated. There are lot of problems of Sensors etc in the newer models of Scorpio .

Thanksfully I have the Basic Non-CRDE 2.6 Turbo with the SZ2600 Plus Engine. It has been very reliable except for things like the AC Knobs and the Power Windows Failing.

+1 wandernomad..

Originally Posted by WanderNomad

Royal Loot on:

4. Engine Decarbonise Rs 1,862
5. MI3000 Fuel Aditive (For Injectors) Rs 577

I believe you were never made aware of Number 5.

That is the reason I hate these bloody Mahindra A.S.C thieves.

Oil change depends on what kind of oil you use. if you are using Mobil Delvac MX or Chevron Delo 400, then change oil every 8K kms.

Originally Posted by Styler

According to the Service Advisors at the MASS (Bhasin Motors) it is recommended to change the oil every 5K Kms for Non-CRDE Scorpios. I specifically checked with 2 Service Advisors. I have been changing Oil every 5K Kms since I bought the vehicle. Maybe we should call up the Mahindra Help Line and check with them.

The diesel filters for CRDe scorpio are made by Delphi, MICO-Bosch & Purolator and all have varying prices. You yourself answered the question first and then asked..

Originally Posted by CrackedHead

Just check your owners manual and follow what it says.

Guys, I've got a somewhat related question - Whats the recommended change interval for the diesel filter for the CRDE Scorpios. Are these filters made by Delphi ?

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by gd1418

.... And this additive was totally unnecessary as your Scorpio is a non-injector model. You engine has nozzles. ....

Is there a difference?
Whether CRDe or not, any diesel engine will have fuel injectors, aka nozzles!

[Styler]

They told me they have a machine for decarbonising, offcourse it is using some chemicals without opening the head. They Circulate some Chemical, because I was told it would clean up the fuel pump too.

It's another story if they anything at all, or they could be simply billing the customers. There's no way to find out anyway. It just give you psychological satisfaction that you did what the service adviser recommended.

[gd1418]

While the injectors in a CRDe have controlled throw of fuel spray into the cylinders as directed by the ECM, the nozzles that are present in non-CRDe units have a uniform constant fuel throw as fed by the fuel pump.

Now in CRDe you don't have heating plugs as the fuel gets ignited in the chamber due to high compression pressure, whereas in non-CRDe, the fuel is preheated at the fuel pump level thus eliminating the heating plugs for each cylinder, that was prevalent in SZ2600 engine. The SZ2600+ engine eliminated the heating plugs.

If you see the injectors and nozzles, the injectors have 5 very small pores from the which the fuel is sprayed, while the nozzle has one single opening like an oversized jet from which the fuel is thrown in the chamber.

Originally Posted by anupmathur

Is there a difference?
Whether CRDe or not, any diesel engine will have fuel injectors, aka nozzles!

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by gd1418

While the injectors in a CRDe have controlled throw of fuel spray into the cylinders as directed by the ECM, the nozzles that are present in non-CRDe units have a uniform constant fuel throw as fed by the fuel pump.

That is not correct.
Fuel injected through nozzles is also a very accurately controlled amount.
Further, the fuel is injected at a precise time and for a precise duration depending on the demand at that moment. These functions are performed by the injection pump too and are referred to as 'metering' and 'timing'.

Originally Posted by gd1418

Now in CRDe you don't have heating plugs as the fuel gets ignited in the chamber due to high compression pressure, whereas in non-CRDe, the fuel is preheated at the fuel pump level thus eliminating the heating plugs for each cylinder, that was prevalent in SZ2600 engine. The SZ2600+ engine eliminated the heating plugs.

This is also quite incorrect.
Fuel is not heated in either case for any more than the pre-start-up phase. Glow plugs, when used, are only active for the first few seconds before starting the engine.
Fuel, during all operating conditions, is always ignited by compression heat. Hence the very name 'compression ignition engines'!

Originally Posted by gd1418

If you see the injectors and nozzles, the injectors have 5 very small pores from the which the fuel is sprayed, while the nozzle has one single opening like an oversized jet from which the fuel is thrown in the chamber.

Regardless of the number of holes an injector's primary function is to introduce atomized fuel into the cylinder. The number of holes, their diameter, the angular positioning etc. all decide the spray patterns & the 'penetration' that will be achieved.
Both, or any, type of injector will always atomize; there is no question of 'throwing' fuel into a cylinder!

Hope this clarifies the issue to some degree.

[gd1418]

Anup, clarifies to a lot of degree... Thanks..

Originally Posted by anupmathur

Hope this clarifies the issue to some degree.

[chandrda]

Originally Posted by chandrda

The Vibration on my Scorpio doesn't seems to go away. After 6 days in Serivce Centre there is obsolutely no difference at all in the Scorpio condition. At this rate of vibration I will develop arthritis in few months.

What else do I need to check and might be causing this vibration. Recently got the prop shaft, differential, tyres, rims and back wheel bearing checked.

I am planning to re-check the engine mounting.

Experts, please suggest what else do I need to do to resolve this mid marriage crisis with my scorpio

SS-Traveller had suggested to check the universal joint bearing, need more information on this as well

Thanks in Advance

All

Got the clutch plate, cover assembly and ball joint changed for my Scorpio last week as suggested by the service advisor in the service centre (free under warranty)

But nothing has changed, it still vibrates the same way it used to and I am tired after 6 months of running around.

Add to the frustruation have got another problem growing on my Scorpio. There was a left drag when ever I used to brake hard over 90+ KMPH, after many attempts to resolve it, the problem only got worst. The braking was not effective, brake pedal shudder and a left drag.

After last week's repair there is a different problem with the brake, now when I brake gradually even above 60+ KMPH the entire Scorpio vibrates with a brake pedal shudder. Left drag on hard braking has disappeared.

Steering vibration, body vibration, wobbling, braking issue, clutch problem, tyre problems.. think I made the decision rather from heart than from mind.

Cheers

Dams

[hvkumar]

If you have already checked the 2 engine foundations and 1 gear box foundation, have the allen bolts in the engine cover also checked - when they are loose, there tends to be more vibration.

Brake pedal shudder may occur if you have changed your brake pads or had the brake pads cleaned, it is normally a temporary problem.

UJ - what SS-Traveller mentioned - is the Universal Joint in your propeller shafts, normally a long-term maintenance issue. Have it checked, tighten the flange in teh propeller shaft assembly.

[chandrda]

Originally Posted by hvkumar

If you have already checked the 2 engine foundations and 1 gear box foundation, have the allen bolts in the engine cover also checked - when they are loose, there tends to be more vibration.

Brake pedal shudder may occur if you have changed your brake pads or had the brake pads cleaned, it is normally a temporary problem.

UJ - what SS-Traveller mentioned - is the Universal Joint in your propeller shafts, normally a long-term maintenance issue. Have it checked, tighten the flange in teh propeller shaft assembly.

Engine foundations & gear box foundation are new, allen bolts in the cover also checked

There is a long history for the brake problem. Got new tyres from JK (under warranty) as the old ones had lot of problems. After the new tyre were fit there was brake shudder even though nothing was done to brakes (I assume). Service centre rectified the shudder but there as a left drag above 90+ KMPH. The dics was interchanged, drag remained and shudder returned this time with very poor braking effect. Checked the brake pad, calipers, discs... and refitted but no difference and the brake pedal felt like a sponge. Finally Service centre decided to change the brake set and there was no shudder, though there was still left drag and brake pedal felt like sponge still. Did bleeding and some repair to brake, braking was effective this time, no left drag but lot of shudder with body vibration.

When I asked about the universal joint to the service advisor, he said they have replaced the prop shaft.. so there should not be any problems with universal joint. Its a different matter that its not making any difference.

Only thing left I think is engine, but the engine performance has been excellent. Runs like wind and its a pleasure to drive on ghats with all the power.

Sirjis, Gurujis, any one who can drive my Scorpio for day in Bangalore and advise about the problem. Pickup drop free, full tank diesel with lunch sponsored and other benefits. Sounds like a BPO job offer

Cheers

Dams

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by chandrda

Engine foundations & gear box foundation are new, allen bolts in the cover also checked...
When I asked about the universal joint to the service advisor, he said they have replaced the prop shaft..

...and why did they replace the propshaft? IMO the U-joint can be replaced without replacing the whole propshaft.

Suggest you jack up the car and run it to visually check for propshaft vibrations.

Originally Posted by chandrda

Sirjis, Gurujis, any one who can drive my Scorpio for day in Bangalore and advise about the problem. Pickup drop free, full tank diesel with lunch sponsored and other benefits. Sounds like a BPO job offer

does that include return airfare for DEL-BLR?

[chandrda]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

...and why did they replace the propshaft? IMO the U-joint can be replaced without replacing the whole propshaft.

Suggest you jack up the car and run it to visually check for propshaft vibrations.

Did this before changing the propshat as there was a bit of vibration in the propshaft

does that include return airfare for DEL-BLR?

Sure Sirji, if resolution of problem is guaranteed

[getsurya]

Chandrda,

Regarding the braking issue, try replacing the brake master distribution system, if not already done.

[rjstyles69]

Ok here comes my 1st issue. Both my central locking keys dont work from distance, I literally need to walk up to the Scorp' and lock/unlock . Highly unlikely that both the batteries have gone kaput.

Am sure it has something to do with the central locking assembly itself. ?Haven't had the time to sit back and fiddle around with this and read the manuals. Kinda too busy enjoying all the respect on the road, while this has taken a back seat in my priority list for now.what do you folks suggest

[hvkumar]

Originally Posted by rjstyles69

Ok here comes my 1st issue. Both my central locking keys dont work from distance, I literally need to walk up to the Scorp' and lock/unlock . Highly unlikely that both the batteries have gone kaput.

Am sure it has something to do with the central locking assembly itself. ?Haven't had the time to sit back and fiddle around with this and read the manuals. Kinda too busy enjoying all the respect on the road, while this has taken a back seat in my priority list for now.what do you folks suggest

Recheck the battery. Check the battery connecting points inside the remote, tends to gather fungus sometimes reducing power output. I have the problem normally after the rains.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by chandrda

Sure Sirji, if resolution of problem is guaranteed

Hey Chandam, we're talking Scorpio here, not Superb! There's nothing so complicated in a car like this, that can't be diagnosed and fixed. And you're not talking fancy electronics either here - just vibrations. Guaranteed fix possible!

Originally Posted by rjstyles69

Both my central locking keys dont work from distance, I literally need to walk up to the Scorp' and lock/unlock . Highly unlikely that both the batteries have gone kaput.

Originally Posted by hvkumar

Recheck the battery. Check the battery connecting points inside the remote, tends to gather fungus sometimes reducing power output. I have the problem normally after the rains.

My suggestion too - recheck the bateries. Maybe you got a pair of old batteries from the company - or maybe you've got the green-blue stuff on the contacts (which was the case with my Swift's remotes - both of them).